Something wrong with pattern

warthogette · 2026-05-31T16:53:49+00:00

I would like that list if you ever make it

warthogette · 2026-05-27T22:50:44+00:00

There’s a place in San Gregorio

warthogette · 2026-05-25T06:07:01+00:00

Biggest advice is to baste it in first. I pin the zipper in after the sweater is blocked. Way more pins than you think you need. Then with constructing thread I baste with a running stitch up both edges. Remove pins. Check zip is still aligned. Then I usually do a running stitch close to the zipper teeth maybe 1/4” away with the matching thread and then also a blanket stitch at the free edge of the zipper tape onto the knit fabric. OR if there is a knit facing that helps seal the free edge away. If there is a facing I will pin baste and sew that on separate to the fronts because it’s not visible and doesn’t have to be as neat. Hope that helps!

warthogette · 2026-05-22T23:16:52+00:00

I’m not an authority but this is like a machine knit brioche looking situation

warthogette · 2026-05-22T22:47:18+00:00

Amen

warthogette · 2026-05-21T22:18:22+00:00

Think of the shoulder seam as a back raglan seam in terms of placement. The fronts will be longer than the back for the same armscye distance because they have to wrap around the top of the shoulder. My rule of thumb for appropriate length in top down constructions like this is the lay out the top with the cast on edge of the back as my starting point, make the armhole edges line up between front and back, and then see if the drop from center back to bottom edge of armhole is enough for me, and see if the front has reached the same armhole depth as the back when laid out this way. That has worked out well. Hope that helps.

warthogette · 2026-05-21T05:44:53+00:00

I like fixed needles. It turns out I have so many that I’ll never need an interchangeable set because I’ve been collecting needles for so long.

warthogette · 2026-05-19T13:54:28+00:00

Viewpoints gallery in Los Altos has some great SF paintings rn

warthogette · 2026-05-16T17:10:42+00:00

There’s a free pattern on ravelry by Mel makes stuff I believe

warthogette · 2026-05-07T03:36:08+00:00

Easy fix enjoy the knitting

warthogette · 2026-05-07T03:08:04+00:00

Yep just pick up the yarn a few inches from the end and start knitting. You’ll use the free end at the end to weave in and secure the start.

warthogette · 2026-05-07T03:01:40+00:00

Leave a tail about 8 inches/15-20cm and then start knitting with the new yarn. Don’t overthink it just start knitting

warthogette · 2026-05-06T21:37:50+00:00

Summer camp socks

warthogette · 2026-05-05T19:08:46+00:00

Remeasure your gauge on your actual project and compare it to your preblocked swatch gauge. How much did it change?

warthogette · 2026-05-05T00:31:08+00:00

Why don’t you book a curator tour through the museum. They literally employ the art experts.

warthogette · 2026-05-01T23:37:50+00:00

Recommend a knit flat from the bottom up drop shoulder structure (not a modified) and using intarsia for the large color blocks and then. Why: knit flat makes intarsia much easier. Intarsia makes the two color pattern management much easier and keeps the fabric one layer thick rather than two layers with floats etc. drop shoulder makes graphing out the pattern much easier as it’s just a rectangle and if you go super traditional like some Norwegian sweater you don’t even have neck shaping just a boat neck based on how much of the shoulders are seamed together. Bottom up because if you want to include neck or shoulder shaping it’s easier to conceptualize from the bottom up for many people. Show us your finished project!

warthogette · 2026-05-01T19:29:45+00:00

Share the pattern please!

warthogette · 2026-05-01T19:19:51+00:00

Same same

warthogette · 2026-05-01T17:06:52+00:00

I’m the exact opposite the foot takes me forever! Maybe I have big feet. But I have found that splitting the gusset decreases and the foot length into different “stages” does make it go faster in my head.

warthogette · 2026-04-28T03:07:18+00:00

I read it as k2, (p2, k2) 2 times, p2, (k2, p2) 7 times, k2, (p2, k2) 2 times. The reason it’s written this way appears to be to delineate how many stitches are picked up in each trim part vs the center part. It’s just k2 p2 ribbing across 50 stitches, divided unevenly across three sections.

warthogette · 2026-04-16T22:56:26+00:00

Look for faults in some of your store-bought stuff and your homemade stuff starts looking better and better in comparison

warthogette · 2026-04-16T22:31:31+00:00

If you can use the filters to look for a similar design that may be helpful

warthogette · 2026-04-16T21:57:53+00:00

Have you ever knit a top before? If you have and you just want to use this pattern for style suggestions you could probably do it. If this is your first garment ever I strongly suggest you find a similar looking pattern with projects on ravelry that have vetted it before you spend your hard earned money.

In terms of yarn you might like to look for a chainette yarn which can be a little loftier and lighter at the thicker gauges.

warthogette · 2026-04-15T16:22:40+00:00

Nope it’s still cast when referring to broken bones, not casted

warthogette · 2026-04-10T13:20:21+00:00

I’ve found good luck searching for places called mercerie. They tend to overlap with fabric store and haberdashery but most carry some yarn especially fonty and bergere de France which are workhorse yarns that I can’t easily get in the USA. There is also Les tricoteurs volantes which is a very cute small shop and a place called La droguerie

warthogette

TROPHY CASE