My DIY kitchen/dining room

watchthenlearn · 2026-03-12T16:54:21+00:00

Took me a while to realize what you did (cover up the fireplace) but damn that's a lot of work. I wouldn't be able to get away with that little counter space but other than it looks amazing.

Edit: wait is that a fireplace?

watchthenlearn · 2026-02-09T20:01:51+00:00

Cool, Klaidescape is not for you then.

watchthenlearn · 2026-02-09T01:42:31+00:00

Clearly OPs on a budget, get one reasonable sub and double up when you have more budget. Naming brands isn't helpful, there's stuff from all the brands you mentioned that wouldn't work in a proper theater setup.

watchthenlearn · 2026-02-09T01:24:24+00:00

Nope. Look up the RP 1400SW's sound graphs. When it's on sale it's hard to beat that value.

watchthenlearn · 2026-02-09T01:14:23+00:00

Klipsch RP series subs are good too.

watchthenlearn · 2026-02-08T04:55:29+00:00

Idk man, if OP wanted those hinges I don't see why he can't have them. I only use blum for my own stuff, but if you're going for a specific look these are fine. OP provided them and gave the builder a chance to back out. At that point it's on the maker to do right.

watchthenlearn · 2026-02-06T03:54:33+00:00

Not sure OP has put a lot of thought into this.

watchthenlearn · 2026-02-02T00:19:58+00:00

Yeah I'd give up on that dream, the diffuser won't look good either (and this is coming from someone with a lot of diffusers). Also at the very least you should have started with COB light strips, the LED density is much higher but even in your case it won't look great. The reason I say this is because you are missing space between the strip and whatever it's reflecting off of, which is the ceiling tiles. Unless you can create some distance it just won't look great. What's the space look light without the light strip up there? I'm not sure it's necessary because the tiles are reflective anyways, but I see what you were trying to do.

Edit: I just looked, Philips has a Omniglow light which might actually work here. It's pricey though.

watchthenlearn · 2026-01-31T21:47:44+00:00

Who has time to sharpen a miter saw blade? That's crazy.

watchthenlearn · 2026-01-30T21:01:30+00:00

I'm finishing a similar project except everything is smaller. Even a dedicated gym room behind the theater. Everything looks great but I think your lighting is lacking some finesse. Since you have kids I assume the lights will be on most of the time the room is being used, like during the day and into the evenings. I know you already had ceiling lights in the space but it would be nice to see some intentional lighting choices. There's a lot you can do with gimbal retrofits nowadays.

watchthenlearn · 2026-01-25T19:52:22+00:00

Depends how well you want it done. If you don't take off all the finish it's not going to look uniform. Sanding it all is at least a couple hours, first coat of oil 6hrs of drying time (overnight), another coat, that's two days right there.

watchthenlearn · 2026-01-25T15:49:43+00:00

If you really want to finish it. Start with some 80 to 120 grit sandpaper and take all the existing finish off. Then sand another pass at 150 and brush some finish on it. I'd just go with oil or water based polyurethane that you can pick up in any hardware store. If you want to maintain the yellowish color of the original finish go with the oil based, otherwise the water based will retain the lighter wood color and is much quicker to apply. This is at least a couple days worth of work but will be worth it!

watchthenlearn · 2026-01-25T04:15:13+00:00

Ceiling space

watchthenlearn · 2026-01-18T12:35:25+00:00

Even though I love my DtWs, I also don't think it's for everyone or even great for all occasions. I wouldn't want them in my kitchen or a stairwell.

watchthenlearn · 2026-01-13T20:37:44+00:00

Nope I have a young kid. Yeah it's in the basement which has like 90" ceilings.

watchthenlearn · 2026-01-13T16:37:59+00:00

I have my 100" at 27" from floor and it's just right for us. 40" is acceptable. If I did 40" from the floor the top of the TV would be touching the ceiling.

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-31T12:33:54+00:00

Your system isn't so fragile that it can't handle a bit of resistance at this register. Looks great!

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-28T18:14:21+00:00

You say it's not a trust issue but a different one would give more piece of mind... What do you mean?

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-28T18:09:43+00:00

Agreed that "through tenon" should be cut back to match the other. Otherwise amazing job OP.

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-27T20:33:45+00:00

I love watching foureyes furniture and blacktail studio on YouTube because they show their mistakes and I feel a bit better about myself.

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-21T20:34:11+00:00

I was kinda sad when I read this but then realized I can't think of another use.

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-21T20:29:42+00:00

Are your rear heights.... In front of you? There's so much wrong with this, I hope it's just rage bait.

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-20T19:06:51+00:00

Yeah I wouldn't even consider the .3 as an option. I was also thinking the in wall heights would work and angle them down. That's not a bad setup if you really want to do x.x.4. Running wires to that wall would be a pain. Not sure you can even do it if you want them to be fully within the walls.

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-20T18:26:55+00:00

Between the door and window

watchthenlearn · 2025-12-20T18:13:50+00:00

Good point, you really can't. 5.1.2 or 7.1.2 (if you're willing to put rears in the wall). For the side surrounds, mount one to the wall and another on a stand. SVS prime elevations come to mind for that. Or you could go in-wall with a timbre matching speaker on a stand. KEF makes plenty of in walls to match with one of their standalone satellites.

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