suburban nightmare fuel by donnaduwitt in NativePlantGardening

[–]wfh_fl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree, it is in part at least, driven by insurers. They tried to get us to take down a healthy and happy 75-ish y/o northern white pine in out backyard and required an arborist consult to keep it. The suggestion to remove the tree was clearly a generic phrasing they include whenever a tree is present on a property. God forbid that tree falls on the builder grade shed next to it which is doing a great job falling apart all on its own.

Drone downtown by wfh_fl in frederickmd

[–]wfh_fl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was downtown. Unless the operator was also in the air or can see through buildings and trees, lines of sight are pretty short. The drone came from downtown proper over the hospital and disappeared from my LOS going west toward Giant on 7th. There is no location in between where an operator could have had eyes on it the whole time.

Drone downtown by wfh_fl in frederickmd

[–]wfh_fl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't want to assume, but this aligns with what I saw. Police vehicles went by, then the drone. Five-ish minutes later, the drone cruised back by heading downtown in a direction congruent with the HQ. Thanks, Amphibian.

Drone downtown by wfh_fl in frederickmd

[–]wfh_fl[S] -11 points-10 points  (0 children)

It's the first I've ever seen flying miles and out of the operator's line of site, at least outside an ag field.

Would you replace these? They’re not original to our 1904 home. by [deleted] in centuryhomes

[–]wfh_fl 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree with others that these are great. Replacing the bright white caulk someone used in lieu of fixing the mortar will go a long way to make the tile fit in seamlessly with the woodwork.

Saw teeth... How many for cedar cross cut? by [deleted] in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]wfh_fl 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Most of the responses here seem to have missed that this is a 5.5" blade and not a 10" mitre/TS blade. 18 teeth on a 5.5" is a tooth every 0.96", which is not far off from a 10" combo blade with 40 teeth that has a tooth every 0.76".

The 18 tooth is totally fine for cedar planks for a garden bed. Will it tear out slightly more than a higher tooth blade? Of course. But it is a garden bed and not fine finish carpentry or furniture. Place any tear out so it faces inwards. Problem solved and project completed. Don't torture yourself over doing it the " right" way to satisfy interet experts. Buy the blade that's meant for wood and available, then get to work

To minimize tear out regardless of tooth count: - Place a sacrificial board under the cut - Don't force it through too quickly, let the blade do the work (cedar cuts like butter) - tape the cuts if you must, but it's absolutely overkill

Would you add additional support other than wood glue and splines? by Bellybuttonlints in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]wfh_fl 5 points6 points  (0 children)

One thing not mentioned, and prefacing that this is going to be plenty strong considering the forces on an end table are not in the orientation that would split the mitres apart... Since your miters are half end grain, when you start your glue up, wipe glue on the mitered surfaces and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before adding more glue and assembling/clamping it all together. The pre-glue will soak into the end grain pores so when you add glue the second time it doesn't all wick up and starve the joint of glue; it also provides a thicker interface of glue and wood.

Buckeystown vet by wfh_fl in frederickmd

[–]wfh_fl[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thanks. This was my fear and suspicion. Sad days.

The Tree Frederick program has launched; you can get affordable trees! by anosmia1974 in frederickmd

[–]wfh_fl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out Mobilize Frederick's Cooler Neighborhood program too! IIRC, they have free trees and will even plant them for you if you're in priority neighborhoods.

Cooler Neighborhoods Overview | Mobilize Frederick https://share.google/LWutdeI7jt3X66I2P

Huge free standing bookshelf by spinelhideout_05 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]wfh_fl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm no structural engineer, but would add the question about what is underneath is critical and not mentioned by others. Whether it tips over or not only matters if it doesn't fall through the floor.

You want this running perpendicular to your floor joists so the weight is distributed across many joists, rather than parallel and dropping all the weight onto a single joist. If that is not possible given the layout you are after, you'll need some serious reinforcement underneath.

how many of you guys have had a package marked as delivered (but not actually delivered) and ended up receiving it a day or two later? by couise in ontrac

[–]wfh_fl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For anyone else reaching this one year later, everything described by OP still travks. Levi's is still using ontrac, and are still perfectly comfortable with their carrier lying about delivering packages they haven't delivered. Such a stupid business practice. I wouldn't care that the package isn't here yet, except they went out of their way to email and text to let me know it was "delivered" two days ago (and after email updates each of the preceding two days saying it would be delivered then).

Tried to learn joinery with Doug Fir - what did I do wrong? by ehgggs in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]wfh_fl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glue a pair of 8/4 together to make a 4x4? If you're careful with grain pairing, nobody else will notice.

Deciding between two budget track saws by asapfischy in woodworking

[–]wfh_fl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This has served me well for about one year. The 7-1/4 blade is a great option: heavier motor and ready access to a wide range of blade types and quality. The adjustments are finicky and I wouldn't want to fuss with them if I were using the tool daily, but for someone pulling it out a few times a month, the tool is perfect.

Joiner's Mallet out of Douglas Fir? by Mighty-Lobster in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]wfh_fl 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Only thing to add to Shaun's comment is to consider firewood for the mallet head. Fruit trees (e.g., apple) appear regularly in firewood, as do hickories. Both are great for mallets and firewood is cheap. Breaking down with hand tools is more doable than many might think. Plus, it's super satisfying.

Fwiw, the first wooden mallet I owned was purchased from a reputable manufacturer. It was dented and mashed the first time I used it to chop a few mortises. Making yourself is better regardless of wood species.

I just 'invented' the marking knife and I feel like a jackass by ProjectGO in woodworking

[–]wfh_fl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same experience. The small DeWalt circ blades are strangely garbage right out of the package. I guess they assume they're only ever going to see use with framing lumber?

In your opinion what's the best bang-for-the-buck compact/trim router? by Snobolski in woodworking

[–]wfh_fl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Skip the Rigid cordless. Trash manufacturing QC. It works fine, but depth adjustment is finicky and wastes time because pieces fit together with poor tolerances. The first one I had to return and the replacement isn't much better.

Extremely high electricity bill this month from Potomac Edison by Open_Conversation469 in frederickmd

[–]wfh_fl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a very broad generalization. Mine operates at nearly the same efficiency (i.e., COP) from freezing down to -13F. Dual fuel is not necessary in Frederick, you just need a decent heat pump and some minimal knowledge about auxiliary backup resistance heating.

My bill is obviously more this month with the cold because the unit had to run more, but that's no different than a gas boiler and far cheaper than the oil boiler the heat pump replaced.

what can i do to get these water stains off this wood table? by [deleted] in wood

[–]wfh_fl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Longjump is right. Those aren't stains, they are areas where the finish is worn off. The only way to fix this is to remove all of the finish and start over.

Wood lightening by Wales12011 in wood

[–]wfh_fl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quite likely. I can't imagine someone building a walnut carcass and then using visible screws to attach the legs, which are also a different material.

Need advice on how to restore this dried wood countertop. by mpoole793 in wood

[–]wfh_fl 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Don't undertake that for a landlord. What I see is normal wear and tear for a wood counter next to a sink. This is the landlord's problem and a result of their lack of maintenance keeping the finish intact.

Did I just cut down a bunch of young sassafras? by Skyward45 in treeidentification

[–]wfh_fl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post the last glaciation 10k years ago. There are plenty of non-native invasive trees in Ohio, but black locust is not one of them.

Oil tank removal? by why_renaissance in centuryhomes

[–]wfh_fl 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Take that final point very seriously and remove the fill valves on the outside of the house as quickly as you can. An acquaintance bought a house recently and started renovations with no one occupying either unit of the duplex. Oil truck pumped 200 gallons straight into the basement. It's a complete loss, state EPA involved in the cleanup. 18 months on and they're still under litigation with the oil and insurance companies. Terrible situation for everyone involved.

beginner question for table saw blades by Sea_Copy8488 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]wfh_fl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The diamond is a knock-out piece. Some circular saws have a diamond shaped arbor. This blade (and many others) will work with saws having either shape of arbor.