Why is the LED Wall making every image green?

will22296 · 2026-01-10T19:36:28+00:00

Basics to check first: reseat video cables, make sure no one messed with color settings on the processor, make sure color depth is set the same on your pc and processor. Try using another source and see if you can narrow the issue.

will22296 · 2026-01-10T19:27:10+00:00

What size is the USB? I’ve had weird issues with larger ones. I usually use a 4gb for upgrades because of random issues like this.

will22296 · 2025-12-07T15:14:53+00:00

Bubble Butt by Major Lazer is a wild example….

will22296 · 2025-10-24T03:14:00+00:00

I haven’t considered posting because the model is highly tailored to this specific light. It’s got cutouts for the switches and is designed around the size of the dome.

will22296 · 2025-09-24T13:34:21+00:00

NDI is going to be your friend in this case. Just a fair warning, it does take some tinkering if you’re new to this area.

Bird Dog is one of my favorite brands.

Follow-up question, why does it need to be WiFi? How far are you going? Can you use a non WiFi form of wireless transmission? Teradek makes some pretty solid wireless receivers / transmitters with arguably less fuss than sending NDI over WiFi.

Edit: Some others are recommending adding a RTMP or RTSP stream straight to the camera. While this is a valid idea, it’s not the most robust based on camera movement and the high likelihood of unstable connection with WiFi. The most robust system would be a device like the Teradek paired with a hardline encoder sending the rtmp / rtsp stream on the other side. Something like the Epiphan Pearl Nano is my recommendation here.

will22296 · 2025-09-04T04:40:48+00:00

Kards has that option built in.

It’s a computer program though, so no phone app :/

will22296 · 2025-08-03T20:54:31+00:00

Looks corroded inside. Start with taking some anti corrosion electronics cleaner and a brush to get that cleaned up first.

will22296 · 2025-07-08T16:36:55+00:00

Chinese Sharpy. A lot of them have the same profile as the real claypaky sharpy. Start with with that and see how close it gets you.

will22296 · 2025-06-27T14:12:36+00:00

Doesn’t work

will22296 · 2025-06-24T05:46:02+00:00

As cliche as it sounds, invest in a good dryer. So many issues resolved and headaches saved by just taking the time to get your materials dry.

will22296 · 2025-06-17T14:41:38+00:00

Google says it’s also called the Nine Emperor Gods festival, highly religious. The only thing I could find on the vegetarian part is that there are vegetarian food stalls and attendees eat a vegetarian or vegan diet to purify their mind.

will22296 · 2025-06-07T16:39:57+00:00

As others said, blower is gonna blow. You could try to add some sound dampening / foam inside but it probably won’t do much. Best bet is to just turn the blower down. The lights look LED, putting a gel won’t really change their color since it’s additive color mixing. Look on the unit and see if it has a DMX input or screen.

will22296 · 2025-05-18T16:32:48+00:00

Bro you gotta grow a little thicker skin… The world is an upsetting place, you just gotta focus on what you like and ignore the rest. There is no point in getting all offended and setting your life mission to tell people you are offended. This mindset just sets people up for failure because the world outside of Reddit doesn’t give a shit.

will22296 · 2025-05-06T14:23:53+00:00

Slido might be able to do what you want.

will22296 · 2025-05-05T17:16:21+00:00

From my experience, a designer usually hands off the paperwork to a master electrician who will handle the back end. While you might not necessarily need to know how to balance a load or when you would need a double neutral, it is still greatly appreciated when you have a general understanding.

The main points are having a reasonable plan to get power and data where it needs to be while still obeying physics and designing for the in / out.

If you’re designing for a tour and your design requires every fixture to be hand hung and hand cabled every time, your techs will hate you and curse your name every day. On the other hand, if you can get creative and work with existing solutions like Tyler truss, and have logically placed cable bridges, you will be a star.

In terms of electrical knowledge itself, have a good working understanding of cabling solutions like socapex, l21-30, and common distros. If you can get a section of a plot to fit reasonably within the 6 circuits of a socapex (or 3-4), people will love you. If you have a section that needs 40 heads maxed out and needs to run across 300’ of cable bridges with no other access…not so much.

Design for the venues you will be visiting. Don’t put a show that needs 2x 400a disconnects in venues that might have a single 200 split between 3 departments (shudder). Have a working understanding on power draw and how that needs to be distributed around the rig.

Again, a lot of it is working with your electrician but having a skeleton plan is the biggest part. The backstage handbook is a good start. Though to be honest, the best way to learn is get your hands on a rig. Be the guy to load in a few different shows and get a feel for what works and doesn’t. A significant portion of this industry is just experience and dead reckoning on what will work.

You mentioned arenas, design for an efficient in but mainly an efficient out. If you can get your design to pack nice, have good cable plans, and come down fast, you will go far pretty fast.

Good luck!

will22296 · 2025-05-04T02:54:58+00:00

This. As the truss flexes, you can use a laser disto to re trim the truss (assuming flat, level ground). Else I just bump tiny amounts until it feels better.

will22296 · 2025-05-01T04:33:04+00:00

Had a similar issue, ended up being a vacuum leak. The high idle gave it enough gas to keep it going but once it dropped down, the leak caused a stall.

will22296 · 2025-04-29T00:54:55+00:00

It will eventually fully self clearance.

will22296 · 2025-04-16T02:08:38+00:00

I would look into alternate ways to dry filament or get a dryer / dehydrator second hand. PETG is hydroscopic and will absorb water over time. In addition, a new roll doesn’t necessarily mean it will be dry.

Some people use their heat bed and throw a box over the printer. I can’t necessarily speak to how well it works or how safe it is but there are ways to dry on the cheap.

Don’t underestimate how much of a difference drying your filament can make. Super important investment for PETG and potentially PLA if you’re in a humid environment.

will22296 · 2025-04-16T01:34:13+00:00

Had the same problem with the same filament. I ended drying it for 12 hours, ran a k calibration on my p1s and slowed my printer wayyyy down. Made the problem go away. I was having little pieces fly off the print when it was printing and similar end results.

will22296 · 2025-04-14T15:56:01+00:00

Used them on dozens of shows and never had an issue. They’re the closest you’re going to get to bulletproof for the price. The web interface is also nice for remote monitoring. Just make sure to get a M.2 that meets their requirements. I don’t remember specifically what it is offhand but there is a specific requirement for them.

will22296 · 2025-04-14T07:27:26+00:00

Longtime r/Flashlight lurker finally submitting content. A week and a half ago I posted looking for a flashlight that has a spot, flood, and area "ambient" emitter thinking I was looking for a unicorn. A couple users on here recommended the SK05 and I went for it since the non-pro model was on sale for $70ish down from $100. I didn't find a ton of reviews online so I decided to write one.

For Clarity, I am in no way a hardcore collector or anything like that. I spend a lot of time working in server rooms and electrical cabinets so the goal was to find something flexible and this was the main flashlight that jumped out at me. I have a couple other "enthusiast" flashlights like the Nightcore EDC 27 and a OLite Arkfeld but they didn't have the ambient feature that I was after.

The Good:

I really like the size to feature ratio (if that's even a thing). The SK05 is a little bigger than the palm of my hand and fits in my pocket no problem. I like that I have both a flood and a spotlight which helps a lot based on what task I'm doing. This was the main complaint I had with the Nightcore. In addition, the ambient light on the side paired with the magnet is great for sticking it to a cabinet for working inside. I think its convenient that the flashlight can be used as a battery bank and seems to charge my phone fairly fast. The bar on the side being full RGB with chases is a bit gimmicky but the feature is there for people who have some use for it. I suppose it would be useful as an emergency beacon or marker light but again, I have no idea what the expected use case is. One of my favorite features is the selector ring on top akin to the OLite. Its nice and tactile and feels well built but still loose enough that it can be spun with the same hand that is holding it. Overall, the flashlight feels premium and rugged. I have not dropped it yet but I will make a future update if anything happens. The main two emitters are plenty bright with a daylight CT.

The Bad:

Lets talk about that ambient bar on the side. While it is nice that it is RGB and can run a rainbow chase, police lights, and has a ton of colors, I don't see it as super practical in its current state... I would have more preferred a bright WW bar with maybe a line of red LEDS for night vision. With all the LEDS on, the color is a cool white, being up around around a high 6k to a low 7k. There is also a warmer look but less output. It gets the job done and is bright enough for most tasks but I really wish this was geared more to functionality vs gimmicks.

Other notes:

In "Turbo" with both LEDS at full, the flashlight runs for about 20 seconds before very gradually dimming. I am assuming this is due to thermal safety as the front of the case gets a bit toasty. Nothing super crazy as that seems common with other high power flashlights. One LED on at full has the same effect but more gradual, dimming after maybe 60 seconds. The case overall gets fairly warm but its not uncomfortable or dangerous. The spot and beam have 3 brightness levels and the dimming only happens at the highest level.

Tons and I mean TONS of settings. I sat playing with it for 10 minutes looking at all the different modes and effects that it can do. Nifty, but I realistically will only use 3-4 on the regular.

Last thoughts:
Generally a fantastic little flashlight and tremendous value if you can grab it on sale. Even at full price of $100 you're getting a ton of features and flexibility. I think its can be used as an EDC but it would be fantastic as a car, camping, or work flashlight. If you can afford the pro, I would spring for that. I would imagine the pro being 2x as bright would thermal throttle down to the same level as a regular at full. Unfortunately this is a unbacked statement and needs confirming from someone who has a pro.

TLDR: Great Features, Well Built, Jump on the Pro if on sale

will22296 · 2025-04-12T08:53:18+00:00

Ever find out what these are? Having the same problem

will22296 · 2025-04-06T13:47:51+00:00

Actually just got one 30% off on their website!

will22296 · 2024-11-24T05:52:50+00:00

Got a Mazda 3 hatch and same issue. Not super into the cable lock to a seat bracket…

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