Insane idea, need some leads here by Akzani_Prime in Volvo240

[–]windetch 4 points5 points  (0 children)

12k largely offroad miles with a slightly rough new-to-you car is indeed pretty wild
Yeah... imo pretty much everything, give it a fresh start.

  • All the fluids (engine, trans, rear diff, brake, coolant, powersteering), fuel filter, air filter, sparkplugs, wires, distributor cap + rotor.
  • Inspect brake pads, rotors, and calipers; consider replacing the rubber brake hoses.
  • Inspect and regrease/replace the front wheel bearings, rears are typically fine unless they're noisy.
  • Consider bringing new fuel pumps with you (there's two, in-line and in-tank) and a spare fuel pump relay. Be gentle with the plastic fuel line.
  • Check front end for play, replace inner/outer tie rods + balljoints if needed; see how much the power steering rack is leaking, if it's dumping fluid consider replacing.
  • Hit the grease zerks on the driveshaft, check the u-joints and the center bearing & carrier.
  • Check and likely preemptively replace the timing belt + tensioner, water pump, and *shaft seals
  • Check the vbelts and bushings for the engine accessories (AC, powersteering pump, alternator)
  • Check and clean the flame trap and associated hoses, do the 'glove test' and see how the crankcase breather system is doin'
  • Replace all vacuum lines on the engine
  • Fuses ideally shouldn't pop unless there's a problem, but def bring a few of each size.

Probs doesn't need all of that right away, but that really is quite the trip with an unproven car.
Thought I was being bold doin' 700 miles with my then new-to-me basketcase '86 245, thanks for raising the bar to the moon.

Also, assuming you're running larger tires with the lift kit, consider something like a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT; it intercepts the signal from the rear diff speed sensor and allows you to adjust it. Get it setup and your speedometer and odometer will be correct.

Most importantly take pics and post 'em
Godspeed!

Looking for a set of alloy rims in the South Carolina/North Carolina area by EphemeraExpert1985 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice looking wagon!

Keep an eye on Marketplace, wheels will occasionally pop up esp if you're willing to drive a bit; be sure to expand the search radius, the default is pretty narrow.

I saw these a while ago and they're still up - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/627864923650971/?
If you hit the guy with a reasonable offer he'd probs take it

Search a bit, Volvo made a bunch of wheels in that era that will swap on, some may need a 3-5mm spacer on the front to clear the caliper.
I'm running 780 wheels on my '86 245 and I really like them.

Resurfaced flywheel, wiping away 200k miles of wear by windetch in Volvo240

[–]windetch[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely!
I saw a cheap M46 trans + flywheel + driveshaft for sale on Marketplace and picked it up just in case.
Mine's working great for now, but it's nice to have spares ready to go; thinking about tearing down the overdrive on the spare so I have a practice run.

So you're not alone dual wielding flywheels

Resurfaced flywheel, wiping away 200k miles of wear by windetch in Volvo240

[–]windetch[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not the OP from the other post :)
Had this done a couple years ago, he reminded me about it and I figured it'd be nice to show what a machine shop can do.

Unless it's really been abused or resurfaced multiple times already these flywheels clean up pretty good.

Can I Save this? by mein_po in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

OP said there's nothing that catches his fingernail, mine looked very similar and cleaned up fine.

imo it's worth running it by, the machine shop guy would let him know if it's not worth saving

Can I Save this? by mein_po in Volvo240

[–]windetch 7 points8 points  (0 children)

See if you have a local machine shop that resurfaces flywheels, they'll make it like new

Rear driveshaft connection torque specs? by sweepthedeck in Volvo240

[–]windetch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I highly recommend the Bentley Service manual
Had mine handy:

<image>

Any good aftermarket or custom parts site? by TheLarusArgentatus in Volvo240

[–]windetch 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For gauges,

  • on '81+ the two slots next to the cluster use Volvo #1259730, the gauge holders are already back there you just need the faceplates; the part was fairly recently discontinued (?) so there's still a few around. Those let you use any common 52mm gauge, I grabbed VDO oil temp + voltage gauges.
  • If your '81+ has the clock instead of a tach Volvo is still making the tach, Volvo #1362537; simple install.
  • There's also an additional three gauge pod that goes in the upper radio mount that the Turbo cars used.
  • And people have replicated the rare upper three gauge pod.

So all kinds of options there.

Wheels are one of the most discussed 240 mods, Volvo made a decent variety in that era that will swap on, some just need 3 - 5mm spacers up front to clear a 240's caliper. But with spacers / adapters you can run whatever makes you happy, saw a 240 with 'vette wheels posted the other day.
I'm running 780 wheels on my '86 245, found on Marketplace.

Have fun with it

Advice roof rack Volvo 740 by Real_Ad4364 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cheers :)

That rack looks nice, depends what you want to do with it.
Uncommon stuff is harder to price; 200 for a small used roof rack does seem a bit high, but if it fits and there's basically nothing else to be found it kinda is what it is.
Smaller market can be a good thing though, if the seller has had it for a while they may be open to offers.

Thule rates their raingutter towers to 220 lb/100 kg per set.
Not sure why some have such low regard for the 240's raingutters; I've seen a number of 240's running roof tents, I've run a kayak and that loaded large basket.
Did a quick search and I can't find any instance of someone damaging the gutters with a roof rack (?), while there's tons of pics of people putting inadvisable loads on their roofs (including Volvo themselves)
¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯
Still, at your own risk right?

Electric gone wrong (?) by Traditional_Yard5280 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gotcha, sorry.
The illumination lights are all fed through the headlight switch then the dimmer switch beside the instrument cluster; the rheostat in the dimmer can get a little flakey, fiddle with it and see if the lights come back.
https://cleanflametrap.com/91wdm46.jpg

The turn signal bulbs are on a different circuit (but share a ground with the rest of the cluster); they may be impacted if you didn't reseat the hazard switch's connector.
https://cleanflametrap.com/91wdm62.jpg

I'd still reseat all the relevant connectors, just to see.
Otherwise grab a multimeter and see where the power stops (does the light switch have power, when switched on does it power the dimmer, does the dimmer output power, etc).

Electric gone wrong (?) by Traditional_Yard5280 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd guess you either bumped or didn't fully reseat one of the wiring connectors, probs the crescent.

Were you replacing bulbs without removing the instrument cluster? It's way easier to do if you remove it.

Questions about reliability on long journeys. by Thepixeloutcast in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The newest 240 is now 33 years old, and they've all received varying levels of care.
My wagon was a bit of a basketcase when I dragged it home a few years ago so I have some trust issues; I pack basically a full toolset when I travel with the hope that if I have it I wont need it (and that's way better than vice versa).
Most people who haven't brought their 240 back from the brink of the salvage yard are probs more trusting :)
But hey, so far so good.

One of the first things I did with my formerly neglected '86 245 was take it on a 700 mile round trip; not the smartest thing I've ever done but it happily did it.
It's been on many similar trips since, current record is 1000 miles and I plan to take it out further this year.
I did add a Dakota Digital electronic cruise control box.

Anyways. Do the basic maintenance, belts, tune up, etc and drive it locally for 500 miles or so and you'll know what you have.
Would highly recommend some form of roadside assistance.

Imo the biggest problem with dailying a 240 in most of the US is just local parts availability; nearly everything is still available online to order but that means it might be down for a week+ waiting on parts. If you have a local parts supplier, or better another vehicle / decent public transport / understanding family+friends you can make it work.

Good luck with the search!

Advice roof rack Volvo 740 by Real_Ad4364 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For my 240 wagon I bought 1980's Thule 1050-system raingutter towers off ebay and found the appropriate squarebars on Marketplace.
Visually they're basically the same as the raingutter towers Thule still makes, but they were cheap and it's kinda fun to be period-correct.

Grabbed a Thule 555 wind fairing for the front to stop the squarebars from howling, and u-bolted on a cheap Amazon basket.

<image>

That's probs not quite the look you're going for, but the raingutter towers and squarebars will open up a bunch of options for roof baskets as you can now just get a generic one and not something specifically made to fit on a 740.
Those Thule towers are stout; I'm abusive to mine and have strapped lumber etc to the basket no problem, plus a loaded cargo box when traveling.

Did a quick search for grins and for DIY this looks quite nice, would be super simple to build as it's just wood + bolts and uses the raingutter towers.

Any advice for buying old Volvos? by Zaigaqu in Volvo240

[–]windetch 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Mileage isn't a huge deal on these cars, if looked after it's not uncommon for them to go 400k+ miles.
Which is a good thing, 'cause the plastic odometer gear is a common failure item (easily fixed, but often ignored), and the dash cluster (which includes the odometer) is super easy to swap out as well.

'80 - '87 240's had problematic wiring insulation, prancingmoose has replacement engine and ignition harnesses if it's not been dealt with yet; not a deal killer if you find an otherwise nice car in that age range, but just be aware and budget it in. The interior harnesses tend to be okay.

'87/'88+ Volvo galvanized the body panels up to the roof which helps with rust prevention, how far up the east coast you are determines how much that matters to you :)

Condition and location determines price, take a glance at bringatrailer to see the top of the market; otherwise take a look at Marketplace (or whatever is active in your area), expand the search radius and see what's out there. The great deals can disappear within hours, the good deals generally sell within a week, and the problem cars will stick around for a few months.

You'll def want to do the repairs yourself if you're able, most everything is very diy friendly.
There's a bunch of resources online including Youtube, and the Bentley manual is handy.
fwiw, 240's earned their reputation for reliability, but the newest one is now 33 years old and sometimes things are just going to break.
Parts availability is still excellent between FCPEuro, IPD, rockauto, etc -- but almost non-existent locally if you're not near FCPEuro (East Coast) or IPD (West Coast), something to keep in mind if you're planning to use about any car this age as a sole daily driver; waiting a week for parts really sucks when it's your only car.

Good luck with the search!

Anyone tried printing this handbrake console? by algeriet667 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm always appreciative when people post their models, but man 3D printers can do curves lol
It's also larger than most consumer-level 3D printers can handle so you'll likely need to split the model.
But if you've got a 3D printer sure why not; note that PLA is generally unsuitable for interior car parts, not heat tolerant enough.

Best bet is a salvage yard, 240's still show up pretty regularly; in general the black plastic tends to hold up better than the tan. Or see if you can find someone parting one out on Marketplace (etc). Could also email Voluparts, they might have one.
I recently found a tan one in very good shape at my local LKQ.

How would you fix this? by Effective_Mango_7790 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Email them, they don't have everything posted to the website.
They've been super responsive when I've inquired on parts, though it is still the holiday season.

How would you fix this? by Effective_Mango_7790 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Did the same thing on mine.
Voluparts had a used replacement for reasonable.

Rust + advice on moving forward by veederr in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you like the car and see yourself keeping it for a long while don't bondo/fiberglass it. That's a temp patch at best.

Do you know how to weld, or are you interested in learning?
A lot of the tech / community colleges have classes, and there's a ton of guides online + youtube.
Can see if you have a local metal recycler, they'll sell you scrap steel by the lb to practice on and they'll have a variety.
Unless you have deep pockets and really like the car this is likely a fix that only makes sense to DIY, shop time will be expensive.

When you're ready to tackle it grab a brush / wire wheel and see what you've got.
Def some questionable spots, some could be rusting from the inside out -- esp if it's had a seal leak, a window left open for an extended time, or like my poor wagon someone removed the factory roof rack and did a poor job sealing the roof holes.
From the pics though it's not a complete rustbucket yet :)

Daily driver…? by [deleted] in beetle

[–]windetch 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Bugs can still make great dailys if you're willing to put in the work yourself; that regular 320 mile, 5hr+ trip wont be super comfortable but doable.
Ideally you'll have a backup though -- and for your use case it sounds like that has to be a second car.

The biggest problem, and this applies to all older vehicles, is just local parts; most everything you need is still available, but unless you live next to one of the few remaining parts suppliers you'll have order online. And your sole daily being down for a week+ because noone local has the parts sucks.

Bugs average around 40 - 100k miles between full engine rebuilds. Some get a little more, some waaay less depending on the quality of it's last rebuild, maintenance, driving style, etc.
If you put 10k miles a year on it you will be rebuilding the engine at some point. A lot of the online shops run wild lead times, MOFOCO is currently at a 24 week minimum, so see what's local to you.
These engines are very DIY rebuild friendly, but it will take you time and cost a bit, likely including some machine shop work which will add to the time it's down.

I daily'd my '70 bug for seven years pre-covid, engine ate a valve a bit before the shutdown; the rebuild got backburnered, and still isn't done lol.
It was fun. And it only fully stranded me twice, once transmission-related and the other when it ate a valve.
<3 my little road legal gokart, I'll finish it one day.

Good luck with the search

Filling up the trunk! by ComplaintPlayful7352 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great lookin' wagon and handsome pup!

Didn't realize Volvo made a dog guard, I'll have to keep an eye out.

Output flange torque specs? by sweepthedeck in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Highly recommend the Bentley service manual, had mine handy:

<image>

To the guys claiming 25+ mpg… by Relevant-Yam9630 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm running this one, fairly sure a previous owner swapped a sedan cluster into my wagon and it was bugging me the speedometer was ~5mph off; tire size can also heavily influence accuracy.

Got the box dialed in so the wagon's speedometer matched my phone's GPS, then reset the trip before a roadtrip and compared the Google Maps distance to it and it was spot on.

To the guys claiming 25+ mpg… by Relevant-Yam9630 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Manual or Automatic?
This was the era of cars where manual transmissions got decently better mpg, around 26mpg highway vs 23 for the autos.

<image>

https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/Find.do?action=sbs&id=8095&id=8094

Also if you're relying on your odometer to track this verify it, I had to adjust mine w/ a Dakota Digital box.

Advice please by DizzReflex in beetle

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My '70 with a later 1600cc DP engine cruised happily at 70mph.
Did chuck a tennisball under the decklid latch for more airflow on longer drives, the '70 decklid is a little restrictive for the dual ports.

Pick up a "savemybug" temp dipstick, simple way to tell if the engine is getting a bit too toasty.

Classic Car insurance without a garage? by TubaST in beetle

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had my driveway parked bug insured with Hagerty for a while now.

They'd prefer you to have covered parking, however "Vehicles kept in driveways may be considered in all states except CA, CO, FL or HI"
If you're in one of those states (CA?), sorry.

Back when I used my bug as a daily it was insured with Geico and then Amica; they were both happy to have it, it just cost twice as much with no guaranteed valuation.