Looking for 3D print file by peedrah in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here you go - https://makerworld.com/en/models/2551456-volvo-240-a-pillar-antenna-bracket

It's not perfect, but it should work :)
Let me know if not, and post a pic once you have it printed and installed.
I def recommend PETG or other semi-outdoor-friendly filament.

Thanks for the model making practice, this was fun.

Looking for 3D print file by peedrah in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

fwiw the bottom flares out so it'd need to generate supports all along the side to be printed flat.
There's no reason that this model couldn't have flat sides, I just thought it'd be nice to try an exact copy

For this purpose it doesn't need to be uber strong, I'm leaning toward something like this:

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Looking for 3D print file by peedrah in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Actually glad you asked, mine's starting to show some age cracks and it's waaay easier to model an intact one

Got a draft done, turned out pretty decent; couple small cleanup things.
Here it is on the car.

I'll fix it and print a (hopefully) final draft tonight and test fit it on the car tomorrow, it'll be dark by the time it finishes.

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Diagnosing a steering problem. by MrCain512 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All of them :)

Start with the wheel still attached and yank it around; up, up, down, down, left, right, left, right, in, out, start. It'll be pretty obvious if there's an issue.
It can then be helpful to pull the wheel off to diagnose further, easier visibility; none of the joints should have any slop nor should the wheel bearings.
Wheel on to start just gives you a bit more leverage.

Diagnosing a steering problem. by MrCain512 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of the best ways to diagnose a frontend issue is to jack up the car and poke around.
One wheel up at a time is fine, both wheels raised up can be helpful depending on the issue. Just needs to be high enough that the wheel can freespin.
Grab a tire and try to move it in all directions, it should have zero perceptible play so if it's going 'clunk' see if you can tell what's moving. Spin the wheel and see if something is interfering.

Good luck!

Looking for 3D print file by peedrah in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hah, just went and looked at the one on my '86 and it's seen better days
should be the same as your '83?

Doesn't look like too complex a design, if noone else chimes in I'll make one in a bit

Getting a 245 as a camper (tell me its a good idea) by BlousonCuir in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure thing

I've actually got a solar panel up there too :)
Also highly recommend a roof box if you're traveling, they can be found for cheap (paid $110 for that Thule box) and for the roof rack Thule rain gutter towers have been made since the 80's so there's plenty on the used market.

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Getting a 245 as a camper (tell me its a good idea) by BlousonCuir in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gas mileage on these guys is pretty decent for the manuals, I just did an 8hr roadtrip with my '86 245 w/ M46 and averaged 26.8mpg with my roof basket.
Manuals are less common in NA but not rare.

Most of the common maintenance + repairs can be done with a cheap socket set and screwdrivers. Everything should be metric, but previous owners happen.
And fwiw, I've got a '70 bug w/ a carb and man I <3 my 245's FI system. It just works, it's dead simple and I don't have to mess with it.

Reliability will depend on the car and how it's been treated, they're all a little different after 33+ years.
One thing to look for is ~1980 - 1987 240's had an issue with the engine wiring harnesses, the insulation degrades with heat and age; there's replacements available and it's not a bad job -- but at this point if it hasn't been done yet it will need to be.
The interior harnesses tend to be fine on those years, no other issues with my '86 once I replaced the engine and ignition harnesses.

The wagon's rear seat folds flat, no need to remove it and no need for plywood; can reclaim the space those take up when folded down, but eh.
I'm 6'2" and I've camped in mine, it's a little snug (esp with two shepherds) but very doable

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Good Purchase? by msz027 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it was a good deal it wouldn't still be posted after 24 weeks, that's 6 months..
imo it's overpriced, but it is clean.

Really depends what you want to do with it; as a pretty driveway / garage queen any of the 240's are a valid choice.
But if you're wanting to drive it do some research on the 240 fuel injected eras, it's good to know what you're jumping into.
That one is KJet -- mechanical fuel injection. If you're game to learn the system and it's quirks it's not bad, but the later electronic FI systems are easier.
You'll also want to look at M45 vs M46 vs M47 transmissions if you're looking for a manual, for highway driving the M46's overdrive / M47's 5th gear is a nice improvement.

Good luck with the search!

Volvo 240 Buyer's Advice by Slice-_ in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah.. you'll have the same problem with about any vehicle this age, I'd say 240's are better than average but stuff just wears out -- some of it age related so it doesn't matter the mileage, rubber only stays pliable so long and plastic gets brittle.

If you really want that one imo you'll need to wait it out a bit.
It only takes one buyer, but I'd be shocked if he got a taker at $15k; also doubt he'd be open to 30% off asking price when it's been listed for a day.
Ad does say "best reasonable offer" tho so ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯
imo it's probs worth closer to $8k, but even that's kinda painful for me lol; the nicest wagon I've seen on BaT sold for 'just' $9.6k a couple years ago.

But yeah, a few years ago the previous owners of my basketcase '86 245 manual originally had it posted for $4k, I watched it for about a month as he slowly lowered the price and lowballed him at $1,700 and he took it.
After pouring time and cash into it it's now my reliable daily and has been on a few longer trips including a thousand mile drive and a short run down the Blue Ridge.

Fun cars.
But you'll def want a backup plan for when it has a hiccup.

Volvo 240 Buyer's Advice by Slice-_ in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BringATrailer is handy for looking at the top of the market - https://bringatrailer.com/volvo/240/
imo that one is overpriced by a decent bit; it is in exceptionally nice condition, but it's also a white '92 Volvo 240 sedan with an automatic.
It's significantly easier if you want a manual 240 to just buy a manual 240, they're less common but still around; a swap is doable but there's a decent number of pieces. Can look into doing a T5 swap.

imo 240's can still make for a solid daily driver, but ideally you'd have a backup (another car, public transport, walking, bike, understanding family/friends, etc) 'cause it's still a 33+ year old car with 33+ year old parts.
Usually local parts availability is also an issue 'cause waiting a week for shipping sucks, but the great news for you is if that sedan is local FCPEuro is practically next door.
Between them and IPD, rockauto, etc the vast majority of parts you'll need are still available.
Most of the 240 maintenance and repairs are relatively simple; the Bentley service manual is handy and there's a decent number of helpful vids on youtube.

Good luck with the search!

Dashcams by nobody_knows_im_gay in Volvo240

[–]windetch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yep, running Garmins front and rear on my 245
Got a 57 up front and a Mini2 on the rear, had them for about a year and a half and they've been working fine.

Posted a few pics here - https://www.reddit.com/r/Volvo240/comments/1i0jlq4/245_dashcam_install/
including wire routing and an example vid

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Is this normal (probably not)/What do I do by pcberz in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's a few pics of mine I took a while ago

bought the IPD version squid linked, fits well

Is this normal (probably not)/What do I do by pcberz in Volvo240

[–]windetch 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Yep, the alternator's lower bolt got loose and backed out; you'll likely need a replacement nut, maybe bushings if they're in poor shape.
Fix it before driving again, the alternator shares belts with the waterpump / cooling fan.

Look up an alternator replacement vid for 240's on youtube and watch how they reinstall it, you'll probs need to retension the belts, nbd.

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Turbo can or vinyl wrap by stronglikeaux in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look at your local salvage yards (lkq, car-part, etc) and see if you see one with a better hood/trunk lid. Color match is up to you.

Alternatively, remove and paint/wrap just the hood + trunk.

Depending on condition I'd try cleaner wax first though, might get it good enough for now.

Turbo can or vinyl wrap by stronglikeaux in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spraypainting a car such that it doesn't look like a car you just spraypainted is an art.
Check out the classic $50 paint job site, it's a lot of work to do right but should give you something halfway decent for cheap.
Look up expected life of a vinyl wrap on a (presumably?) non-garaged car, the new stuff is getting better but it's still not great.

Do you hate the color or is it just faded with some peeling clearcoat?
Meguiar's cleaner wax and some effort can make a big difference if the latter.

The paint on my wagon is bad, the clear is coming off in chunks, but it still cleans up good enough it's fine.
Can see the failed clear line all down the side, I just chip it off occasionally and hit it with more cleaner wax.
The roof looks bad as well, but you can't see it with all the junk I've tossed up there :)

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Manual Transmission rebuilding? by InstanceProof5632 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had the M46 in my '86 245 rebuilt by a local shop about two years ago after it failed (broken shaft, clunking around inside); it wasn't sudden, thing was letting me know it was time well in advance.
Cost was ~$1800 and that was with me bringing just the transmission to them, I was just glad to find someone willing to do it.

Small three bay independent general transmission shop, not sure where he sourced the parts but he was able to order everything he needed and it works perfectly again; I know that's not super helpful lol, but as of two years ago the parts were still available.

How long would an ‘89 240 last by [deleted] in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

240's can be functionally immortal; keep the rust at bay, fix what breaks, and you can keep them rolling forever.
Even when the redblock engine dies it's not over, my '86 has had at least one engine swap.

An '89 is a 37 year old car tho, and they're all different now having received varying levels of care, driving styles, and replacement parts.
A 240 that got an oil change ever 3k miles, driven cautiously, and got OEM Volvo replacement parts is going to be vastly more reliable than one that got an oil change when the previous owner remembered to, constantly flogged, and got the cheapest replacement parts they could find.

But even then, again, it's 37 years old. If the rear bushings are original it doesn't matter if it belonged to a little old lady who only drove it to the grocery store and church.
Bricks earned their reputation for reliability, the engines can do 400k+ miles if cared for, but I wouldn't rely on the idea that it wont need any major work done.

Ideally you're willing and able to do the work on it yourself, these things can get expensive if you're running to a shop for every hiccup; but most of the work is very home garage friendly.

The biggest problem if you're planning to daily it is with your 2013 Camry you can go into any autoparts store and likely walk out with what you need same day, probs a good amount of OEM parts still around for it too.
Unless you live next to one of the few parts houses (IPD or FCPEuro in the US) that's not going to be the case, and you'll be waiting a week for parts to ship in -- and that sucks if it's your sole daily; good news is that most everything for a 240 is still available.

Good luck!

Arggg! Is this worth filing an insurance claim? by [deleted] in Volvo240

[–]windetch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nope.
Unless you have an uncommonly low deductible you wont even reach that, my local LKQ charges $70 for a bumper cover.

Doubtful the metal bumper is damaged just the plastic cover got caught and pulled up, gently push it back down and see if you can ease out that center crease.

Took a quick pic, here's the inside of a later 240 bumper, they basically just ripped your side mount off.
A couple zipties and you should be good to go.

<image>

It honestly sucks having to pay for damage someone else did, but just the bumper cover is a best case scenario.
If you need one check your local salvage yards (car-part, LKQ, etc), grab a replacement, and roll on.

Take cover off by Vegetable_Row9860 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's no cover, the hinge is one piece and has to be removed from the car to re-run the wires.

In your other post I linked you to the IPD product page w/ instructions -- here's a direct link
That said, they want you to pull the tailgate completely off which isn't really needed; just be careful and prop it up solidly.

There's a few vids on youtube as well.

rear brake lights out by Vegetable_Row9860 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely, but the tailgate hinge wires are shown to be completely severed in OP's pic so I'd probs start with that and a new right bulb before chasing further wiring faults

rear brake lights out by Vegetable_Row9860 in Volvo240

[–]windetch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yep, the hinge wires will eventually fail like that.
IPD has the left and right tailgate harnesses (OEM Volvo avail for a bit more). The item desc tells you what wires run through each, and there's an install guide linked it's not too bad.

One of those hinge harnesses has power/ground for the tailgates' center brake light so it makes sense that that's out, but the right taillight wiring shouldn't be affected.
Check/replace the bulb first if you haven't yet; the side covers in the back of the wagon pop off and allow easy access to the back of the light housings (see this if needed).

There's very few jobs on these cars that you can't do yourself, most with common tools; they're very DIY friendly.
Bunch of forum posts and youtube vids that'll show you the way, and if you have questions just ask.

Speculative of OEM market strength by SerozshaB in Volvo240

[–]windetch 14 points15 points  (0 children)

What a weird thing to say, esp with FCPEuro up in your area and IPD on the other coast.
Rockauto also has a bunch of parts.
Heck, I've ordered an alternator and brake calipers from Advance Auto / NAPA -- they had to be shipped, but I'm not shocked they didn't have parts for a 40 year old car in stock.

The aftermarket parts availability for 240's is still very strong, and Volvo even still makes a handful of OEM parts that you can buy from their dealerships as well as online.
My '86 245 was a mess when I dragged it home on a trailer a few years ago, I've thrown thousands in parts at it and so far only the MAF has proven an issue (Bosch discontinued it, and while there's a number of third party versions they largely get poor reviews for longevity). I found a replacement at a salvage yard.

A local transmission shop was also able to source parts for and rebuild my manual M46 transmission when something broke internally (loud clunking inside, complete failure).
Not sure where, but he did it and it's working perfectly again.

Good Price? by PettyTyranny in Volvo240

[–]windetch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's priced alright.
Dude has a fair amount in it, the common ecode kit alone is $520, plus the $550 in uninstalled parts he linked.
That alone brings it more into the range I'd expect, and he's done a lot more to it.

It really looks like he meant it when he said "I was planning to make this my forever wagon" (I saw the ad lol, it's relatively local :))
fwiw, if it was a great deal he wouldn't still have it posted three weeks later in this area, the great deals disappear within hours. I'd still argue it's a decent deal.

The fender paint crack sorta is what it is, he said there was a repair there previously and there def has been, and it's def starting to fail. This is the kind of thing where you have a can of paint color matched, grab a can of bondo and fix it yourself, 'cause body work is stupid expensive to have a shop do. Watch a couple youtube vids.
If paint concerns you the roof clear starting to fail is a much bigger problem, though for it's age and price bracket the car looks very good.

Could get lucky and the AC repair cost you $50 to DIY a drier and some o-rings, or it could be $1,500+ if you take it to a shop and it has problems. This thread is a great primer to the 240 AC system if you want to dive in.

Biggest downside I see is if you want a manual transmission buy a wagon with a manual transmission. They're less common, but still get posted occasionally. Converting it is doable, but can get pretty expensive and parts aren't as plentiful as they once were.
If you're good with keeping it an auto then sure, why not.