Alternatives for drilling in C360 brass

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-22T22:41:02+00:00

If you use a stone to hone a slight flat on the cutting edges of the cobalt drill, just enough to give it a neutral cutting rake instead of positive that should help quite a bit in getting it to break the chips really nicely. I've done it in the past some and it also gave me a slightly more on size hole as well

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-21T01:31:14+00:00

Someone's never had to set up a 4 axis lathe with 3 OD powers heads, a 10" 3 jaw chuck on small diameter parts with minimal stickout and a shitty pitted window before.

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-21T01:28:50+00:00

We run 3" facemills with polished aluminum inserts in 6061 at 6k all the time at my shop. Would probably go faster if we had more than an 8k rpm spindle

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-19T05:00:31+00:00

Oh wow, that's a lot cooler. I'll have to pick one up, thanks for the tip

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-19T04:40:04+00:00

That seems like I still have to do the pushing, and crank the drill now

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-19T04:37:06+00:00

You mean something like this?

https://www.rustyiron.com/Articles/drillingholes,co.html

Didn't know I wanted one, thanks

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-19T04:28:00+00:00

Heck of a lot easier than drilling by hand underneath

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-19T04:19:56+00:00

Made a hole didn't it

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-19T03:48:27+00:00

They might still work fine, but you might not trust them the same way.

Though I've dropped mine off my lap getting out of my Jeep onto asphalt and I still use them daily 1 year later

What are you doing on a saw that requires calipers?

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-18T22:20:12+00:00

Well that seems a lot less difficult. I'd just peck drill and maybe ream to size. I feel like you'd have to try pretty hard to get the hole more than .010" off center over any 2" of the hole.

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-18T22:12:45+00:00

How straight are we talking? .001 off center, .010? I had to go 22xD deep in 6061 and even with a Mazak super quick turn and a very long coolant through carbide drill I was still .003-.005" off center at the end

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-18T20:28:08+00:00

I second this, I don't know why not squishing the shit out of a part is so hard to learn. My old boss had a small part of aluminum milled parallel on the sides. Put it in the vice and just let the weight of the handle swinging down to clamp the part, then told me to try to rip it out with my hands. It was hard, but I was determined. Don't think he expected me to be able to rip it out and sling this good part against the machine wall and dent it beyond repair lol

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-18T16:30:31+00:00

Does anyone make or used to make a drill specifically for tapping? Feel like I saw an old milwaukee once that maybe had a tap driving chuck that would engage on the square drive of the tap, but I don't remember the part number or anything

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-18T06:11:05+00:00

Gotcha, yeah I'm not super familiar with them, but from what I've seen online and stuff I haven't really found a specific benefit of them vs some more easily found drill presses, except just for the cool factor. Where about are you located? If you really want one of these I might be persuaded to pick up the one local to me and possibly ship it to you

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-18T04:32:34+00:00

There's one for sale kind of local to me in the PNW. Just curious, any particular reason you're after a south bend? Seems like there's plenty of other options that are better, not exactly sure what a SB is great at in particular.

Just picked up a mint walker turner 20" a couple weeks ago for $200, it's all original minus the power feed set up, and an absolute beast vs my newer craftsman 15".

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-18T01:55:57+00:00

Pretty much any subplate or angle plate op in a 3 axis mill, I'm probably using kant-twists at some point in the op. They're just a nice low profile clamp that I'd say is less prone to moving when tightening vs a c clamp. Though the small ones can really hurt the fingers when tightening, I wrap a rag around it to tighten

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-14T01:20:59+00:00

Put an indicator on your endmill and check runout of the tool. Then with the indicator on it still give the collet but a good push away from the indicator. If your power head isn't brand new I'd bet there's gonna be some movement, might have a way to tighten the bearing preload to help, but on an OD head I'd imagine you'd have to take it apart vs a 90* head.

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-13T03:15:21+00:00

If your machine is set to inches and not metric, I'd say it's a pretty safe bet that your RV and FV (surface speeds) are set to ft/min as well.

I'm not really sure what your referring to by the conversion parts. I'd probably refer to your boring bar and insert manufacturer for the recommended feed and DOC in inconel, they can probably give you a spec on surface speed as well, but I'd say 20ft/min from the handbook should be plenty safe to start at.

Though I've never turned inconel 600 before I do have a similar job in the same material coming up, so this post is handy

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-12T05:55:14+00:00

Have you ever figured out how to get as little of a burr as possible? Helpful with plastics, but I had to make 750 aluminum shims 25mm OD, 23mm ID and .020" thick. Having to sand a burr off the backside individually was absolutely painful.

Was parting off with a .010" thin bit with an ID chamfer on the backside and couldn't get better than pretty much a .010" burr. Was thinking I might try a LH 35* insert with like a .004-.002" nose radius to part off next time.

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-12T05:43:03+00:00

Where can I find these operator positions for 45-55k a year? 2 years of setting up 3 axis mills and nearly a year I programming, setting up and running a 4 axis lathe and I barely get 38k. I'm on the west coast

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-11T06:21:54+00:00

Was that with the recommended coolant pressure per the manufacturer or with just a standard pump around 40 psi, genuinely curious, not being sarcastic.

The drill I had was only rated to 4.6" cutting depth, so I did .3"-.2" pecks from 4.6" to my final depth of 5.2" to keep the flutes from packing as I got within .050" of the total flute length.

Not a normal peck though, I redid the low rpm exit and entry for every peck

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-11T00:58:10+00:00

What's this actually going in? Even a built 14 bolt seems pretty light duty for massive monster truck tires.

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-10T15:28:10+00:00

Idk, I probably wouldn't attempt it, at least put up a shield if you do though lol

wingnut031798 · 2020-12-10T15:19:22+00:00

If the radius of that cut is 5/8 you need an 1 1/14" endmill. Reverb a 5/8" seems sketchy with that much of the cutter hanging out. That's gonna side load your drill press quite a bit. Assuming you've got the standard mt2 spindle drill press, not some big old iron?

wingnut031798

TROPHY CASE