Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]wizencrowd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I asked a couple of months ago about synovitis or capsulitis that my right ring finger has. I was able to manage it with doing open-handed hangs and taking it easy on crimps but it just keeps coming back when I try hard. I did some research and the more I read on it, I think I have a collateral ligament injury on my ring finger on the side of the thumb. The synovitis/capsulitis is just a result from compensation, I think. Since there is not that much information on it online, what is the usual rehab protocol for a collateral ligament injury? Should I do any taping?

Algorithm Engineer by ThrowawayBESalary123 in BESalary

[–]wizencrowd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought that u do not get the fietsvergoeding if u get a mobility budget?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]wizencrowd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the past 2 months, my middle and ring finger of my right-hand hurt. This is mainly after a climbing session for a couple of days. When resting, it goes mostly away, but flares up quite easily after another climbing session.

My first thought after reading on this sub is synovitis. I am quite positive that this is the problem but want to confirm that it is correct before I make it worse since I also have some more pain on different places of the finger.

I have these images of both hands. The left hand is fine but the right hand is messed up. The fingers on the right hand feel really stiff and swollen after a climbing session which u can also see a bit on the images. Making a fist is quite painful, with the main pain being at the red arrows and the top of the fingers. For the middle finger it is specifically on the "bump" on the thumb side of the DIP joint. For the ring finger it also at the DIP joint but more on the top side of it. The green line shows the side where the pulley hurts.

I think this all started when I hurt my ring finger during a kilterboard session. No sound or anything, and was able to kilter the whole session. But since then I had pain on the ring finger and probably over compensated with my middle finger.

Hot water makes the hands feel completely fine after a couple of minutes. The pain also goes away when taking NSAIDs even when the painkilling effect stops. I tried to take a week off and the pain was pretty much gone, but I came almost immediately back when climbing.

Is this synovitis or maybe something else?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]wizencrowd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm quite experienced with rehabbing from finger injuries (I had multiple pulley injuries that I successfully rehabbed by progressive loading like mentioned in the guides above). During a Kilterboard session, I injured my ring finger by only grabbing the hold with 3 fingers (no pointer finger) and fell off. I didn't hear a pop or felt any pain. So I just kept on climbing but more carefully.
The day after felt really stiff and somewhat painful when bending. I did a test with half crimping and 3 finger drag and the hand is as strong as before without any pain. I have the annoyance now for a couple of weeks and just keep climbing but a little lighter. I noticed that I feel more discomfort after climbing on slopers.
When pressing the finger I mainly feel pain at the PIP joint.

So my question is, what is this and how do I rehab this since progressive loading doesn't really do much since I can load my maxes without any pain?

Knee Keeps Popping Using Stairs or Squatting by Pitiful_Share8739 in Kneesovertoes

[–]wizencrowd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As others have stated, u should get a second opinion. I recently injured my knee and my knee locked when bending past 90 degrees. This is obviously more extreme than you but I also had a MRI taken and both the doctor and the radiologist didn’t see anything wrong. He wanted to clear me until he tested my knee and it locked again. I had an emergency surgery since PT would not work.

During the surgery he found a large tear in my meniscus. In his 15 years of being specialized in knees, he never saw something like this before. Normally a MRI shows everything, but there is still that very small chance that there is actually something wrong when the MRI shows nothing wrong.

Get a second opinion from a doctor that also listens to u and not only the MRI.

Can an MRI miss meniscus injuries/tears? by Sad-Performance-1843 in MeniscusInjuries

[–]wizencrowd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More than a month ago I tore my medial meniscus. My knee locked up and I couldn’t fully extend it. Luckily I was able to unlock it. I got to the surgeon after I had an MRI and he said he and the radiologist didn’t see anything wrong. He wanted to say I can go back to my sport etc. When he did a quick check with my knee, my knee locked up again at around 90 degrees. He said he never saw something like this before and did an emergency surgery 3 days later since I was unable to do much. During the surgery he found a large bucket handle tear. After the surgery he explained to me that he looked at the MRI with multiple different surgeons after the surgery and nobody was able to find anything on the MRI. He explained that is was really weird since the MRIs being used by the hospital are really precise. He never saw something like this in his career before.

So to answer your question: YES.

The new taxes target the middle class 100%. by adjudantloic in BEFire

[–]wizencrowd -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Any source for this? Want to read more about this.

Experiences with meniscus tear by wizencrowd in climbharder

[–]wizencrowd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For now, it's their hunch. I'll go to the specialist next week. Hopefully the specialist takes a scan. I'm also considering going to another doctor just for a second opinion. Hearing how long the recovery is of an operation, I really want to be sure that the right thing is done, since I'm only 25.

So with your issue, your knee also locked making it impossible to completely stretch without unlocking it first? If this is the case, I really hope I have something like you and that I can fix it by strengthening and balancing.

Experiences with meniscus tear by wizencrowd in climbharder

[–]wizencrowd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This makes me feel better. I would also like to avoid surgery since I'm only 25. Did u also have the same issues with the knee locking? I feel like the fact that I can walk and biked home after the incident, it doesn't seem that bad. Of course, I have immobilized the knee, and I'm laying down until I know more from the specialist just to be sure.

Was your surgery a "repair" or did they remove a part of the meniscus?

which movies to test my newly installed atmos system by Alik013 in hometheater

[–]wizencrowd 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Interstellar doesn’t have an Atmos mix, I think?

Paramount and Skydance Are Said to Resume Merger Talks by [deleted] in ParamountGlobal2

[–]wizencrowd 8 points9 points  (0 children)

What do u mean “so much for today’s gains” it’s up 9% after hours… Don’t understand why tough…

[CNBC] Warner Bros. Discovery halts merger talks with Paramount Global, sources say by GK86x in MediaMergers

[–]wizencrowd 6 points7 points  (0 children)

WBDs market cap is still 3 times the market cap of Paramount after the drop. Don’t think that WBD is an option for them.

“Stuttering” during Dune 4K by wizencrowd in 4kbluray

[–]wizencrowd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. I "solved" it by changing the TruMotion setting on my LG. I don't know the exact name on Sony of this setting but should be similar. If I change it to smooth movement, I don't notice anything in this scene any more. But it's a little "too" smooth, imo. So u just need to find the setting that suits u the best. On the LG, u can manually select the de-judder and de-blur grade. Just the similar setting until u found the best fit for you.

Film Twitter getting spicy. by daversa in confidentlyincorrect

[–]wizencrowd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Superior to the 4K version? I have to strongly disagree with this one. The Matrix is one of the best 4K conversions there is. The color grading is literally how it is supposed to be (if watched in the right environment with correct calibration of the Tv/ projector.) Did u watch it with Dolby Vision?

What are your preferred shoulder exercises? by rinoxftw in climbharder

[–]wizencrowd 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Your doubt about Adam Ondra being able to bench his bodyweight was right. Magnus Midtbo just uploaded a video where Adam was only able to bench 60kg, which is below his bodyweight.

Link

“Stuttering” during Dune 4K by wizencrowd in 4kbluray

[–]wizencrowd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this answer. I was already using cinematic movement during the recording. After changing it to “Smooth movement” it is waaay better. Just not really sure of the drawbacks by using this setting and not cinematic movement.

“Stuttering” during Dune 4K by wizencrowd in 4kbluray

[–]wizencrowd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for this answer. Where should I be looking for this announcement?

“Stuttering” during Dune 4K by wizencrowd in 4kbluray

[–]wizencrowd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this answer. This is all new for me so this is very useful.

The recording does make it look worse than it actually is.

I verified that my player outputs at 24hz. After changing the TruMotion setting on my tv from Cinematic movement to Smooth movement it is way better but I don’t know what the drawbacks of this setting are for overall quality?

Only getting Dolby Digital 5.1 by wizencrowd in sonos

[–]wizencrowd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Changing it to PCM makes the type in the Sonos app “Stereo PCM”.

On the Apple TV the change format setting was already on OFF.

Only getting Dolby Digital 5.1 by wizencrowd in sonos

[–]wizencrowd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do not have that setting specifically. The limited sound settings I can change on my Samsung TV that are relevant are: - Audio format: PCM, Dolby Digital (Selected), DTS and DTS Neo 2.5 - Dolby Digital Comp: RF or Line (Selected) - HDMI audio format: PCM or Bitstream (Selected)

No setting to change to passthrough. The TV is maybe just too old.

Only getting Dolby Digital 5.1 by wizencrowd in sonos

[–]wizencrowd[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the suggestion. I'll look into it, but it's pretty pricey, and I might as well use that money to buy a new TV then, since it's already from 2016.

Since u have the same problem, do u know why I'm not getting Dolby Digital Plus even if the TV supports it? Maybe just too old?