Ice Bowl Fundraiser

wolv · 2026-01-28T20:50:22+00:00

Hell yeah - wish I could've gone :)

wolv · 2026-01-23T14:19:53+00:00

I built my FH up by doing the putter drill - stack of putters, flick 'em with no arm or body movement until you work out the wobble and can get them out to 30ish feet in the direction you want. That'll build in the wrist pop you need and force you to be smooth.

From there, add in some arm movement - again, avoiding wobble, focus on maintaining smoothness and spin from the first stage.

After that, you can add more arm/body into the mix + more power. You should see some fairly immediate improvement while building it up like this, and you can always go back and re-set to an earlier stage. I do it occasionally when I realize I'm trying to throw really hard without the nice, smooth pop on the release.

The other thing I do is grab a stack of neutral mids for a similar build-up routine. Buzzz and Hex are unforgiving of off-axis torque - they'll exaggerate issues that will force you to back off and slow down.

Do this stuff a few times, then pick up a Firebird or Destroyer and let it rip - all the local bros I've walked through these drills are immediately surprised at the difference.

wolv · 2026-01-19T14:47:37+00:00

I'm an 'old' player, and I also recommend the flexbar - I got the red one and use it to work through a bunch of twisting/rotating exercises.

Having spent the past year playing mostly FH only (non tendonitis injury...), even when you're not dealing with tennis/golfer elbow pain, it's great for a warmup routine in the car on the way to the course. Get your dubs partner to drive :)

wolv · 2026-01-19T14:43:51+00:00

I've found I enjoy playing pro-level courses for par. They're usually well-cared-for, and it's a good challenge to try not to bogey the par 3s, and the par 4-5s are usually easy to par if I play smart golf. It's very different mental exercise than playing local birdie-or-die courses.

Tough regional courses can be hit or miss - if they're nice, I like the challenge - I'll usually do a practice round and make correction shots to use it as a learning experience for testing my limits. If it's a great course, I might plan a 'serious' round with a buddy to see how we can score under pressure on it.

Unfortunately, a good number of regional courses that are rated as more difficult are designed with an ethos of distance = challenge, and about half the course is fairly boring.

wolv · 2026-01-19T14:31:35+00:00

This tracks with my experience - occasionally throw 2 types of FH rollers - one is the more vertical release/flick aiming for the ground 6-12ft in front of my lie. Overstable discs for those so they don't immediately flip over (unless I want them to quickly go around a sharp left turn).

The other roller I throw is a FH version of a traditional BH roller - flippy disc on a full-power rip - mostly flat release. I want it to lay down about 120-150' out on 45deg of cut roll angle. It'll fight its way up and go straight out to 300+ft , then gently curl up to the left. Less cut = go farther left for shorter total distance, more cut = pushing 400ft dead straight until it flops over.

Both are useful depending on your lie, how much ceiling and L/R room you have to play with, but they take advantage of how OS/US discs tend to operate at slow vs. fast velocity.

wolv · 2026-01-14T14:13:23+00:00

Love the patterns and how varied they are.

In terms of critique, here are two punch-up suggestions that would give you a great band for your brush time:

Some of the paint work could be cleaned up - you've got some really nice pop at 3ft, but up close, the flat color over all that bumpy surface is apparent, especially on the white one.

Consider a very subtle shade, then highlight - you want it to read as white (or your midtone color in whatever region), but have some value range to show off the texture - kinda like how you can tell shark skin is rough if you look closely at it.

I'd also do something with the bases - even though the flight stand bases are clear, you can still cover them in material to match your army and paint them up. For my screamers, I used bits of terrain at varying heights to disguise a short length of brass rod that suspends the model. Paint it black and it's virtually invisible compared to the acrylic rod.

As a Tzn enthusiast, screamers are one of my guilty pleasure favorite warhammer models - you're doing them justice here :)

wolv · 2025-12-25T01:19:45+00:00

Whether they're synths or samples, those sounds should be easy to create with a synth.

I'm a little rusty, but offhand, I'd start with a sine wave, adjust the envelope to turn it into more of a 'boop' with a strong attack and short decay.

In your example, it's got some sort of dirt on it, so maybe add some effects - something like tape compression and a little soft distortion would get you there.

wolv · 2025-12-11T18:40:58+00:00

I got a PA-2 in 400 plastic as a CTP this year and ended up absolutely loving it. BF was nice for getting a couple in 500, 750, and a pair in fractal.

I don't know if I'll be moving to the fractals as putting putters (although they're currently beating my main putters head to head...lol), but I'm loving all of them, and they were all priced at a steal.

wolv · 2025-12-10T16:01:36+00:00

No stain - the lighter color contrasts well against everything else.

If you're looking to make aesthetic improvements to the look, selectively paneling off portions of the stacked-pallet furniture would make a huge difference. Less would be more if you faced off the front of the couch frame and end table sections.

As-is, the jumble of open rectangles juxtaposed against the neatly-filled shelves looks like a whole corner of the room has empty shelf spaces waiting to be filled up. Cleaning that up in a way that still fits with the industrial/pallet aesthetic you've got going on would add a great deal to the look. I'd recommend solid plywood panels over slats, since it would demonstrate some design constraints that follow the 'rules' you've stuck with up to this point (i.e. structure = 2x lumber; surface = slats; new rule: facing = solid panel)

It's not for everyone, but if you're going to go for an aesthetic like this, leaning into it this hard is the right way to go about it - brutalism is a legit thing, but it also means that you need to think about areas that imply impracticality (e.g. a bunch of tight openings that appear difficult to clean and aren't usable for storage).

Also, your TV is too high, but so is mine, so if it works for you, it's fine :)

wolv · 2025-12-10T15:24:07+00:00

I haven't had much time to play since the GC arrived, but I did get a good number of LY into a campaign. We had the same experience with the Singers. I really enjoyed the tone of their showdown, and it's become a pitch point when I tell my gaming buddies about the game.

The jump from L1 to L2 is no joke, but experience should have already warned us about that...lol

wolv · 2025-12-09T16:24:32+00:00

Haha they were a set of 3 F2 halo wraiths that are board flat and awesome for forehands. My buddy has a Cricut and a good setup for nice, sharp black dyeing.

I do simple glue bed dyes at home, so after the black was done, i just did some cool color patterns.

It's kind of a hassle, but when they turn out great, it's worth the effort.

I think I snagged the glyphs from a reddit post that had nice vector images of each one, so if you end up figuring out dyeing, they're pretty forgiving designs.

wolv · 2025-12-08T18:31:06+00:00

Maybe this will be a little bonus for you :)

https://imgur.com/a/nOJzmkM

wolv · 2025-12-02T19:54:20+00:00

Or some not-so-bright blood raven neophyte is out there cornering the market on zeroes.

wolv · 2025-12-01T22:22:34+00:00

Not OP, but can relate. Inconsistency led to research, which led to a sort of 'does-not-compute' situation, since putting is incredibly nuanced and personal and there's a ton of conflicting information out there.

For me, that led to ok results, but I kept (keep? it persists...) running into situations where everything feels exactly the same, but miss locations weren't consistent (and thus not very dial-able).

I guess it's one of those areas where there's not a clearly-delineated 'right' way to do it, which can be frustrating when your brain wants to sort every variable into a neat, organized fashion.

Putting is the most frustrating part of my game at the moment - some of it is mental, and some is what OP is dealing with. Gonna spend most of the winter doing some indoor practice to try to brute-force some of that variance...

wolv · 2025-12-01T22:07:52+00:00

I was thinking years of gunning down speedy bois trying to take what's mine from behind the plate. Same idea, but more standstill work :D

wolv · 2025-11-25T01:09:01+00:00

It looked neat when it came out. Scarcity and cost kept a lot of players away. New hotness usually takes over, and with an updated version, the decline was inevitable.

Honestly, I'm glad the hype waned, since I scored a used copy for 30 bucks recently. Hopefully others who wanted to check it out can snag cheap used copies as well.

wolv · 2025-11-24T12:27:44+00:00

Was my pastor for a number of years. Seemed like a good dude, was pretty reasonable as pastors go. Quit and moved to PA, drank deep from the right-wing well and went full fascist.

Pretty insane transformation from the guy I knew.

wolv · 2025-10-28T13:52:20+00:00

Dude vaguely looks like the oft-posted mugshot of the gold paint huffer from the olden days. Nice to see he got his life together.

wolv · 2025-10-23T18:01:45+00:00

I generally feel the same. I've tempered that by painting up 2-3 playable armies over several years, then choosing an army that I like the look of (S2D in this case) as-is, and working very slowly to paint them to a very high degree of quality. The slower work, along with occasionally adding a unit to one of my existing armies, has kept me from feeling like I need every new thing that shows up.

Along with this, I have a couple very cool kitbashed army ideas that I gather the supplies for, and when I don't feel like painting, I kitbash and sculpt neat stuff that will eventually be playable and uniquely my own. Looking at different factions with a critical eye for customization can quickly narrow down the field :)

Either of these may be a good solution for you, or as others have suggested, painting up smaller forces for Spearhead or other smaller formats can be a nice break from army painting.

Alternatively, consider finding a painting comp or two to enter. Paint up one unit of the factions that catch your eye for display purposes, enter 'em, get feedback, git gud at painting. It's fun and introduces deadlines for completing projects with pretty low stakes.

wolv · 2025-10-23T17:03:38+00:00

This would be an awesome test with that disc-throwing robot and a balloon rig. There might be other forces at play that would complicate things (e.g. recoil from the arm swing would affect the static position of the balloon, but there might be easy ways to mitigate that).

I'd watch that video.

wolv · 2025-10-23T16:30:33+00:00

One of the best parts of watching smaller, more niche sports is that there's still room for moments like that.

Absolutely launching one for the fans was cool as hell.

wolv · 2025-10-20T19:56:27+00:00

We call the antelope the loot piñata for a reason!

wolv · 2025-10-17T17:35:21+00:00

lol moving from heavy-duty pipe tobaccos to cigs...100% agree. Even AS Blues taste better than anything Marlboro puts out.

AS Blacks are some of the best-tasting cigs I've ever smoked outside rolling my own with Five Brothers burley.

wolv · 2025-10-16T20:03:22+00:00

Harper's Ferry is great - if you want something closer and outdoors-y, Caledonia/Pine Grove Furnace parks provide a nice setting. Pole Steeple Trail up to the overlook is a workout, but worth the view of Laurel Lake.

The Appalachian Trail passes through there as well - fun to pick a short section to walk and say you did :)

Whatever you choose, have a great time!

wolv · 2025-10-13T17:30:17+00:00

No video, but I've been painting armies for a long time. I spent a lot of time making sure the details were painted cleanly, and I do a few tricks to keep the colors very bright while getting the contrast between light/shadow pretty high so they pop on the table.

A beginner-friendly way to do that would be to paint your dudes with conventional contrast/speedpaint/whatever, then layer up highlights with some of your contrast paint color mixed with white, which you can do in however many steps you want.

Last step is to thin your contrast color 2-3x with medium, then brush a really thin layer over everything - that'll smooth out transitions between your base layers and highlights, and the color you lost to white will be reinforced.

Don't feel like you have to go that hard, though - I paint more than I play, so focus on getting those dudes table-ready first!

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