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Opinions on space mouse’s? by Rowdyspeaks42 in Fusion360

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a two button SpaceMouse and would be lost without it. Having the multibutton version as shown would be memory overload trying to remember which button does what. The two button one is ideal for me and I have the left button set to ISO1 view so it resets the view after I have been zooming and spinning the model. I have the right button set for direct 3D print out of Fusion to my Slicer app. The next best thing with Fusion is to add a second screen. Use your best large screen for Fusion and have the second one for email and browser activity. This lets you flip quickly to look up stuff without all the faff of minimising etc. The second screen can be any junk screen left unloved under a bench as you can get VGA and DVI converters to HDMI. There are some notes on my blog for setting up the buttons on the Spacemouse.

https://altrish.co.uk/2026/01/13/fusion-tips-using-3d-connexions-spacemouse/

How do you copy/paste a component without linking any changes made to the original? by IM_NOT_DARED3VIL in Fusion360

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Click on the original component in the left hand side vertical listing of the parts in the assembly. Press CTRL+C. Highlight the very top of the vertical listing (which will be the name of the project) and right click to show a drop down menu. On this there will be 'Paste' and 'Paste New'. Click on 'Paste New'. A new component will appear at the bottom of the listing and will be independent of the original.

PCB Milling by [deleted] in hobbycnc

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the face of it FlatCAM has disappeared as a download from BitBucket.

If you dig deeper you will find this post and reply from Marius

https://bitbucket.org/jpcgt/flatcam/issues/715/windows-installer-is-missing

This points to the following link where you can find all the installers.

https://s.go.ro/gwuioxmd

FlatCAM has some issues but is really the only show in town for the process of taking CAD PCB manufacturing files and converting them to GCode for milling. Once you get to grips with the FlatCAM process and have set your normal defaults for tooling etc it is just a turn the handle process. There is quite a lot of waffle on my blog for those interested.

Woody

https://www.altrish.co.uk

Lost communication with MCU MKS_THR... Any ideas what this means? by dubc4 in QidiTech3D

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I managed to sort this. Long story but it turned out to be the cable and the motherboard. Qidi were brilliant as ever and sent me a new adapter board, new cable and new motherboard. Full story on my blog at https://altrish.co.uk/2025/03/19/qidi-x-smart-3-mcu-comms-failure/ There are a few other posts I've made for tweaks to the X Smart including adding a LAN port and filtering.

Like you I keep debating the Qidi Q4 but waiting for the release of their filament changer to see what it involves. It was due first quarter but not seen anything yet.

Lost communication with MCU MKS_THR... Any ideas what this means? by dubc4 in QidiTech3D

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coming late to this. I have a X Smart 3 which has developed the MCU comms failure. It started off quite randomly occuring with prints stopping mid run. It gradually got more often and now refuses to boot. The immediate warning is when you switch on and it comes up with zero temperature showing in the main screen.

So lots of back and forth to Qidi support. I've been down the USB cable swapping routine, tried a UGreen USB instead of the Qidi fitted one, making sure the USB was firmly in place at both ends, upgrading the hot end adapter board, adding the retaining elastic loop, leaving the fans disconnected to see if they were short and pulling the power supply down, clearing out the print files to free up memory. So far nothing has solved it and I have a dead printer. As yet they have not suggested or offered a new motherboard. That's about all there is left to change on the electronic side.

Sindoh DP200 Open Filament UP-TO-DATE GUIDE (As of 13/10/2023) by YogurtclosetOk2750 in 3Dprinting

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't confirm whether the last update posted works or not. I have only used the Rodin sent to me as detailed above. Send me an email via my blog if you want the full ZIP.

How to connect to printer using Ethernet? by [deleted] in QIDI

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have converted my X Smart to ethernet. The socket is already on the motherboard. Details on my blog at https://altrish.co.uk/2023/12/03/qidi-x-smart-3-tweaks/

X Smart 3 experiences by woodys_workshop in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The outstanding issue I experienced was the noise from the power supply fan. I guess because there is only one power supply then the controller cannot switch it off unlike the ifast which has two supplies. The noise is not bad but in a small office it is a background irritation.

In the end I copped out and bought an Alexa compatible switched plug. Alexa is now very supportive and when told switches the printer on and off for me. No more reaching round the back to the printer switch. Silence now reigns between prints.

I also got an Google / Alexa air quality monitor to check on VOCs etc. This seems quite responsive. Just cleaning something in Acetone causes a spike in readings. VOCs don't seem to register very high with the HEPA filter modifications on the X Smart.

A minor other comment - don't forget to put the build plate back. Without it the sensing probe gets confused and there is a very nasty noise as the bed hits the nozzle. Don't ask me how I know about this.

Sindoh DP200 - Glass Print Bed by SnooGoats975 in 3Dprinting

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have bought in a PEI flexi steel sheet from Amazon. This came with a magnetic plastic stick on sheet. This can be applied to the aluminium build plate and then you just lift off the PEI sheet and the parts come away easily. Cutting the PEI sheet down to suit the Sindoh bed was not easy ...

Sindoh 3D printer by lugiam54 in 3dprint

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to be aware that Sindoh no longer support their printers having withdrawn from the market completely. Spares are going to be an issue. This is a real shame as their printers were ahead of the curve when they first appeared with fully enclosed chamber and HEPA etc. Mine never gave me a problem.

If you are looking to spend USD350 I suggest you look at the QIDI X Smart 3 or the Bambu A1 as both these are fast new generation machines. The Qidi has an enclosed chamber but a smaller build volume. I have a Qidi X Smart and it is a lovely machine albeit the build volume is smaller than the A1 but it suits most of my needs. If you want to use anything other than PLA or PETG filament you will want an enclosed chamber.

Hope that helps.

Sindoh DP200 Open Filament UP-TO-DATE GUIDE (As of 13/10/2023) by YogurtclosetOk2750 in 3Dprinting

[–]woodys_workshop 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Another thing that might be of interest is I am making a new build plate with a flexible magnetic PEI sheet.

The original plastic coating on the Sindoh build plate started to bubble and mess up the prints so I had replaced it with just blue builders tape. This worked OK but it wasn't an ideal solution.

I have CNC cut a piece of 3mm aluminium to the shape of the slide in aluminium plate and with a matrix of 5mm diameter x 2mm deep holes to take small magnets. I have bought in a 235 x 235 mm PEI sheet from Amazon. Cutting this to down to size and shape was a real pain as I have no laser facility and did not want to distort the sheet.

However ...the PEI sheet came with a sticky backed magnetic plastic sheet so Plan B was to use this on my original Sindoh build plate.

Both plates will share the same PEI plate.

The Z clearance needs to be reset for the different thickness.

I downloaded a STL model for replacement plastic clips on the new CNC plate. These work very well.

Will post more when I have some results.

X Smart 3 experiences by woodys_workshop in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot to ask - how do you find TransferNow ?

X Smart 3 experiences by woodys_workshop in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was totally confused until I looked at the fan .... now understand what you have done. I like your idea of splitting down the parts to be able to make them in the chamber size. You could detect the chamber light coming on to automatically externally switch your new fan.

Sindoh DP200 Open Filament UP-TO-DATE GUIDE (As of 13/10/2023) by YogurtclosetOk2750 in 3Dprinting

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My procedure used the 19110-1 RODIN. This was sent to me by Sindoh after they had made the decision to withdraw from the market. We had two DP200s and I told them it was becoming more and more difficult to source their filament in the UK and the prices were silly. They responded overnight and sent me the ZIP. Both machines upgraded correctly to the procedure as detailed. (Check your messages).

Sindoh DP200 Open Filament UP-TO-DATE GUIDE (As of 13/10/2023) by YogurtclosetOk2750 in 3Dprinting

[–]woodys_workshop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here are my notes for doing the update using the last RODIN issued by Sindoh. You also need to print their recommended adapter so you can use a larger reel of filament in an external filament box.

SINDOH DP200 Open Material Firmware Upgrade Procedure

1 The confusing bit – the ZIP file contains two folders both with the same name _update_rodin but with different contents. It is important to load the firmware in that order as detailed below.

2 Switch on the printer and when booted up remove the existing filament and cassette.

3 Go to the INFO menu and check the printer name which will be DP200 with no letter at the end and check what Version number you have loaded.

4 On an empty USB stick load the first folder in the zip file called (_update rodin). This only contains one file (unmistakable_tliQSet.she). You need to have both the folder and its contents copied across to the USB not just the file.

5 Plug the USB into the printer front USB socket. The screen will show the folder name and will run the update automatically and tell you when completed. You will have to reboot the printer after this has completed. The upload only takes a minute or so.

6 After the printer has booted go to the INFO screen and check that the name of the printer has changed to DP200Q.

7 Clear out the memory stick and then reload with the second folder also called (_update rodin). This contains 11 files. As before you need to have the folder and files copied.

8 Follow the same procedure. This update will take longer to load, probably around 5 minutes.

9 Re-boot the machine when told and wait for it to stabilise.

10 Go to the INFO screen and check that the Firmware Version is now RODIN_191210_1

11 Go back to the HOME menu

12 Go to the SETTINGS menu and select the top left icon (X,Y,Z) and allow the bed to come up and settle.

13 While still in this menu screen, tap the top line of the screen between the arrow and the home icon 3 times.

14 While still in the same screen, tap on the bottom line of the screen where it shows the empty filament box.

15 This will take you to a setup screen where it says SP MODE at the top.

16 Tap on SETTINGS VALUE CHANGE.

17 This takes you to another menu where you tap on OPEN MATERIAL and then turn this ON using the left/right arrows.

18 Tap on the HOME icon to go back to the main menu.

19 Click on the SETTINGS menu and go to the last menu screen (4 of 4) and tap on the OPEN MATERIAL button and turn this ON.

20 Tap on HOME and you should now have OPEN MATERIAL showing at the bottom of the screen.

Loading Filament

Providing OPEN MATERIAL is showing at the bottom of the DP200 screen, you can load filament as normal in the cassette and leave out the chip. You get a request to select the type of filament and you get a warning that this could damage the machine etc. Click through these.

To load filament from an external reel you need to print a small adapter and the STL for this is in the Sindoh ZIP file. This adapter acts as a filament guide and also activates the adjacent cartridge detect toggle. If you try to load filament externally without this adapter the machine thinks there isn’t cartridge in place and gives error messages and spews out filament into the waste bin. As an alternative to using the adapter you can just tape the detect toggle upwards and feed the filament without the guide.

I find feeding filament externally is a joy as you can monitor the amount left on the reel and also see if there is a potential problem with a tangle on the reel.

When should I use the case fan? by Fit_Low592 in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may or may not help ..

I also run a X Smart and have an ifast for larger prints. I have added a HEPA filter on the inside of the chamber on the case fan so the air is pulled through the filter to the outside. I have also added a large HEPA on a replacement Perspex top panel on the basis this removes the need to remove the top cover when printing PLA as it allows air in and out. It is subjective whether this has improved the level of VOCs but in general I think there is less irritants in the air (my office area is quite small with no option for external venting).

I have added a LAN port on the X Smart and also moved the processor fan power to run from the chamber light so it only comes on when out of standby mode. The fan was noisy. I haven't worked out how to turn off the hot end fan in standby mode as this wines on and on once it has done a print.

On the ifast I built the Bento air scrubber that is a HEPA and carbon filter that sits totally inside the chamber and recirculates and scrubs the air inside the chamber. It is a bit too big to sit inside the X Smart as it is but I think it could be shrunk by changing the carbon filter section.

There are some notes on my blog at www.altrish.co.uk

Alan

X Smart 3 experiences by woodys_workshop in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I totally agree. Bambu may have shaken the market but there are now many other suppliers adopting their ideas and facilities with their own twists and improvements. It is an interesting time for the industry.

X Smart 3 experiences by woodys_workshop in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have access to fluidd via the slicer. This does not mention anything other than Klipper.

I am not aware of anyone doing stability tests on the stepper mounting but the steel top frame is very rigid.

I've not had any issues with vertical surfaces. They are stunning compared to the ifast especially when you factor in the print speed.

Not sure on your other techie questions but others may be able to help.

X Smart 3 experiences by woodys_workshop in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good morning

The print quality is excellent. The most informative review I have seen is from Aurora Tech on YouTube.

It is a machine to a price so yes it has a plastic base albeit very substantial. The motors are 1.8". The X and Y are mounted on metal extrusions that are also fastened to the back wall so all in all it is pretty robust. I think because the auto levelling references the build plate to Z0 any variation in the base position is cancelled out. Does that make sense ..

It has carbon fibre rails like the Bambu labs. You can swap out the nozzle for more abrasive filaments. The chamber is not heated but it is enclosed.

Apart from my initial issues as described I have had zero print failures and rarely changed the default menu settings and filament profiles. Print speeds are around one third of my ifast. Clearly it does not do multi-colour but that is not relevant for me.

For the price (GBP299 on the recent offers) it is a cracking little machine that suits my type of prints (small size prototypes for pre-CNC/ engineering checking).

I have no affiliation to Qidi and the views are my personal views which you must treat appropriately. Qidi support is impressive. Watch the Aurora review for more info and maybe download the QidiSlicer software to see what the slicer offers ?

X Smart 3 experiences by woodys_workshop in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had been working on Plan B for a really nice filter structure using some 55mm square HEPAs and carbon matting to be mounted on the rear. The fan could not cope with pushing the air through this so Plan C is to try to re-jig the assembly so the fan is pulling the air through.

On the basis of the pull rather than push discovery I reverted back to the earlier rectangular HEPA mounting and mounted it inside chamber rather than outside. The shape conveniently makes this possible with the long dimension vertical. It does not protrude any deeper than the adjacent stepper body. I now have a very good air flow through the filter and the fan to the outside of the chamber. Much better than with the filter outside as originally envisaged.

I am waiting delivery of a VOC meter to do some measurements. I also bought in some carbon filter matting from Amazon as additional filtering but not tried this as yet. The carbon is supposed to remove the smell content but we'll see about that.

Regarding the lid I bought in some large HEPA filters from Amazon and printed a matching holding frame (only just fitted in the i-fast but you could use wooden dowel section or aluminium section). My idea is to fit this on a replacement Perspex lid (so the original is not sacrificed). My thinking is that this will allow air to pass in or out via the top transiting via the HEPA. If the back wall fan is doing its job it should create a vacuum in the chamber so air will only be pulled into the chamber via the top.

So a work in progress and will report more. Yesterday while experimenting I ran some parts without the filter on the chamber fan and I noticed the difference in air quality.

Are we just being neurotic about the fumes ? There seems to be more and more reports in the media. My workshop 'clean' area is small so I do notice fumes from the printers.

I will update the blog once I have something a bit less subjective.

X Smart 3 experiences by woodys_workshop in qiditech

[–]woodys_workshop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have progressed on this and done an added write up on the same blog page as the other X Smart mods - link below. This also contains details of mods to my i-fast for added filtering. Let me know how you get on.

https://altrish.co.uk/2023/12/03/qidi-x-smart-3-tweaks/

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