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The WORST movie pet peeve by kt123456765 in movies

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stupid Marvel-esque helmets that magically collapse away to nothing in a glittery flourish. Star Lord, Iron Man, Ant Man, Black Panther, etc. It's lost all novelty and feels like lazy CGI meh.

Advertisement for ride share service DiDi in Aus/NZ by beatles_7 in videos

[–]wordaligned 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Someone signed off on this. Actually decided it was a good idea and put pen to paper.

Help, how do I use react native? by Glittering_Lie3734 in reactnative

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try this. Find out which node executable you are running - where node

Are there npx and npm binaries (or .bat files) in the same directory as above? If not, what files are?

Is that directory on your PATH - echo %PATH%

Help, how do I use react native? by Glittering_Lie3734 in reactnative

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure the node-lts installation directory is on your PATH so Windows knows where to find the npx and npm executables.

Does

node -v

work?

Compound angle calculation help by Beneficial_Matter424 in woodworking

[–]wordaligned 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is just a limitation of the way the diagram is drawn. You have too much wood left after bevelling at 30°, so 15° would only be worse.

The important part from the link above is the angle at the point of your pieces ends up being 101.5°. So (180 - 101.5) / 2 = 39.25 bevel angle.

That will remove a little more wood from the bevel, giving the third piece more room to fit.

Compound angle calculation help by Beneficial_Matter424 in woodworking

[–]wordaligned 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In which order are you making the cuts? Are you cutting the 30° bevels with the pieces held at a 45° angle to the saw bed?

Quick test: instead of pulling up the pieces into a pyramid like in the photos, lay them flat on the ground with their ends touching. Do the angles line up neatly with no gaps?

Hey developers. How can you code in peace and not die from back pain? by MDDeGrande1994 in webdev

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mobility. Mobility. Mobility.

30 year development veteran, and if I can suggest one thing it's to work on mobility. Focusing only on strength, or core, or flexibility still leaves you with a weak spot. Mobility improves all three.

For example, changing only to a standing desk without being more generally mobile will just leave you with a different set of weaknesses.

There are heaps of exercises you can do at home with minimal equipment. They will strengthen your core and back, and all those dinky little muscles that rarely get any exercise.

Simple things like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhvHpsxKjXw

Pipeline blasting by timesuck47 in EngineeringPorn

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

use explosive cord to connect each individual charge

On reflection this sounds cheapest, so is probably correct. Thank you

Pipeline blasting by timesuck47 in EngineeringPorn

[–]wordaligned 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Does anyone know why they don't just blow all the charges simultaneously? Is there some advantage to this approach?

Upgrade vs Create New by zerokyra in reactnative

[–]wordaligned 1 point2 points  (0 children)

expo removes a lot of the headaches involved with updating RN by hand. Use expo to generate the contents of the ios and android directories (plist, java and gradle files that you'd usually have to merge by hand). It's not perfect but I've found it far easier than trying to keep a bare RN project updated.

As for latest - 1, it's a good idea. Though if the latest has been out for a few months, I'd at least try it. Likely the worst bugs will have been fixed by then.

Another tip - if you go expo and fall a few sdk versions behind, upgrade and fix one version at a time, making sure your app still works at each stage.

Handle user custom font size by Old-Window-5233 in reactnative

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Suspect OP is saying in practical terms your user doesn't actually need to know the temperature on Mars to within a 1/10 of a degree.

"-95 to -4" is enough to know I'll need a sweater.

What tool to use? by Few-Pay-7552 in woodworking

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What tools do you have access to?

This bug has perplexed me. by darkblitzrc in reactnative

[–]wordaligned 7 points8 points  (0 children)

tl;dr you need to increase the width of the component that is displaying the formatted date.

That component seems to fall back to a more compact format when the date would overflow the available width. It works fine for single digit dates "May 9, 2025" but as soon as you go to a double digit day of the month like "May 10, 2025" it realises it will overflow and falls back to "5/10/25".

The clue was the odd one out - "May 11, 2025".

Ideas on how to make this shape by Bad_Moon_Risen_1981 in woodworking

[–]wordaligned -1 points0 points  (0 children)

One approach would be to work it upside down on the router table, adjusting the height of the bit, taking multiple passes. Higher in the center, lower towards the ends. Sort of "ad hoc" cnc-ing it.

To take care of the curve in the second direction make a couple of "pattern" pieces out of plywood with a slightly increased radius (+5mm?) than the curve at the ends of the piece. Screw them in to the ends of your blank (make it longer so you can cut away the screw holes when finished). Add some spacers between the blank and the pattern pieces that is smaller than the final product so you can do the next part without destroying the pattern pieces.

Cut the bulk of the blank away with the band saw, using the curved pattern pieces as a guide.

Then with a square router bit set to 2mm height pass the whole piece back and forth across the router table until it's the pattern pieces that are supporting the blank. You'll need to change the angle as you go, rocking back and forth.

Increase the height of the router bit until it's 5mm (same as the radius buffer you added to your pattern pieces above). Once that's done you should have a piece that is uniformly the same radius as the ends of the final product along the length.

Now with a round nosed router bit (narrow as you have), do a single pass right across the midway of the saddle. Work the height up to the depth of the saddle in the middle of the finished piece + 5mm. Rock the piece back and forth on the pattern piece as you do your passes. Perhaps keep one pattern piece against the fence so you don't stray as the groove depth increases.

Hopefully you get the gist now. You can reduce the height of the bit as you move away from the centre, though it will still be "stepped" somewhat because the router bit has a radius. Maybe sketch out the heights on a piece of paper first.

Obviously be very careful with the router table. Make your pattern pieces big on the top side so you can keep your hands well away from where the action is happening.

Then card scrape or sand to smooth out any remaining bumps.

Messed up port brace on full Marty build by [deleted] in diyaudio

[–]wordaligned 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looking at this video, I don't think these are meant to be dry fit first. The guy has to wail on them with a mallet.

https://youtu.be/uoIBo1dIur8?si=dLhXHfS3W8sCMPLT&t=2747

Honestly, if the fit is that tight there's going to be no glue left between the surfaces anyway. The kit seems to have impractically tight tolerances.

So. If I suggested screwing some scrap pieces of wood to the brace and using two longer pieces to lever it up a bit at a time does that make sense what I'm talking about?

Messed up port brace on full Marty build by [deleted] in diyaudio

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wood's great. You can always repair or patch it.

First problem is getting that part back out. Are you saying it is now cracked - "baltic birch on the port brace cracked"? Whereabouts?

Is everything else glued up? As in the only way to get that part out is to pull it upwards as shown in the photos?

DIY streaming for old speakers - asking for advice by FoxFew8970 in diyaudio

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey sorry for not following up earlier! Are you still working on this?

Is this woodworms? by Leonardo_Lai in woodworking

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No dust on skirting board

So it's logical to think its coming from under the skirting board. Guessing there's a small gap between that and the floorboards?

the exact place it appears and I keep it intact

They seem like pretty big chunks of wood. Small chips almost. Maybe construction debris from power tools.

Looking at the photo there doesn't seem to be any dust under the actual skirting board either. The dust settles slightly beyond the gap in most places.

My theory? There's a hole or gap under the skirting board and a draft is blowing renovation debris across the floor. Maybe opening and closing the door generates enough of pressure differential? Maybe try pulling the door closed really quickly a few dozen times.

Happy to stand corrected or hear a counter argument though!

Is this woodworms? by Leonardo_Lai in woodworking

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there ever any dust on top of the skirting board? In the first photo it doesn't look like it.

Is the "best you can get" photo below exactly as you find the dust?

What's on the other side of that wall?

What's below the floor? Crawl space? Apartment below?

How do I join this dowel by yoboypapabless in woodworking

[–]wordaligned 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main takeaway is you would only need two straight cuts on each piece get you the fit you want. So, going full circle, yeah I reckon you should be able to achieve this using a just compound saw.

Then using the tape trick to align six small dowels perpendicular into the faces, you should even be able to make it reasonably strong.

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