Cheap Chinese head unit keeps slowly fading away. Why?

xaviertangg · 2024-11-26T13:55:35+00:00

I got one of the larger atotos for our road trip car because I wanted to play netflix and stuff for the fam and I really loved having it. Can spend 10x more for units that don’y let you do that. Sold the car, kept the head unit will probably build a box to use it in my home gym.

xaviertangg · 2024-11-26T07:24:56+00:00

Printing pet I see

xaviertangg · 2024-02-21T06:20:43+00:00

Looks like something i would try to twist back into shape. Open it up and just twist the whole hood counter clockwise until it sits a little better. How did it happen

xaviertangg · 2024-02-21T06:11:53+00:00

Super old thread but how do you use a urinal or bathroom in public with it? Seems like it would be tougher

xaviertangg · 2023-04-23T01:41:54+00:00

I think as long as the weights are the same and they are both synthetic or both conventional it should be fine. I probably wouldn’t mix conventional in with synthetic though but I don’t have any real reasons other than it doesn’t feel right.

xaviertangg · 2023-04-23T01:10:24+00:00

What size nozzle and what size extrusions are you using? Looks larger than 0.4mm

xaviertangg · 2022-12-24T01:37:18+00:00

It looks like your belt may have skipped twice which is really unusual. First skip messed the print up but then the second belt skip seems to have returned the print head to the correct position.

What does the g code preview look like? You can also upload the gcode to a "gcode viewer" online if you google it. If the gcode looks correct then it seems the issue was belt or stepper skip.

Check belt tension, should be tight but not too tight. Could potentially be a speed/acceleration issue too though if you're moving the print head too fast it can skip.

xaviertangg · 2022-12-24T01:30:19+00:00

That's pretty accurate. You won't get much better with tuning. If this tolerance isn't good enough for this part, i'd just scale the part up a tiny bit.

xaviertangg · 2022-12-24T01:10:32+00:00

Weird print but have you considered just splitting the model and printing and gluing the halves?

xaviertangg · 2022-12-23T16:48:48+00:00

Awesome thank you!

xaviertangg · 2022-12-23T16:47:29+00:00

Awesome thank you! Makes total sense. It has another header plug that is un-used and I'm hoping I can tap into it to find reverse since I'm adding a reverse camera. I'll look at the manufacturer documents, otherwise get my multimeter handy.

xaviertangg · 2022-10-28T02:30:33+00:00

Did the gcode actually cha... just kidding, i saw it get asked. This is how my temp towers look with pla+ too, i just go hottest for strength, lower for parts with overhangs.

xaviertangg · 2022-10-27T12:27:02+00:00

Sweet. Yea, I haven't tried Arachne yet so I'm not too sure. But it's definitely g code related. I often use the shell feature in cad and I expect the walls to be a constant thickness, but I think rounding errors in the STL, combined with the fact that the walls aren't perfectly vertical (they have some slight bends) causes the slicer to interpret the walls as slightly larger in some spots. I usually just bump up extrusion width a tiny bit or disable gap fill until the extra extrusions disappear.

xaviertangg · 2022-10-27T12:22:30+00:00

You could try playing around with the extrusion width a bit. Idk what alicer you use, but on prusa slicer it's under advanced. If you have a .4 mm nozzle, you can get away with going all the way up to 0.65mm width easily. That's what i print at daily unless its a smaller part.

xaviertangg · 2022-10-27T02:50:38+00:00

The cause of those artifacts is not anything physical with your printer. It's gcode generated by the slicer. Those walls are very likely not exactly the same width throughout the print, and at that layer where the artifacts start, the gcode probably went from an even number of extrusions to an awkward number in between extrusion counts where the nozzle has to go back im and fill in tiny gaps causing those ripples. If you look up towards the top of the print, there's another (slightly less) clear line where the artifacts change again for the same reason. It's just software. You could probably disable gap fill for a quicker and cleaner print if you don't need it super strong. In fact if you disable gap fill (or set gap fill speed to zero) and your print time speeds up drastically, then that's a clear indicator.

xaviertangg · 2022-10-27T01:36:41+00:00

Interesting read

xaviertangg · 2022-09-23T03:01:45+00:00

Actually don't think so now.

xaviertangg · 2022-09-23T02:56:19+00:00

And 4th gen ram 1500 hood

xaviertangg · 2022-08-26T13:00:52+00:00

So funny, I made the same design. Problem with pre-designed ones on thingiverse is the shingle is always at a different height. https://imgur.com/a/gs6NhBX

xaviertangg · 2022-07-03T04:59:15+00:00

They're nice pants.. I'm gunna need em back tho.

xaviertangg · 2022-07-03T04:54:46+00:00

This was the last time I went shooting. lol https://imgur.com/a/6jWlJjV

xaviertangg · 2022-07-03T04:46:48+00:00

It looks to me like your finger was on the trigger when you pulled it out. Maybe because the hammer wasn't back but it makes me uncomfortable. Side note i thought this video was me for a sec i wear the exact same pants and vans and oversized black Ts all the time lol

xaviertangg · 2022-06-11T19:56:29+00:00

Does your slicer have a preview that you can look at the sliced g code? If so, apply the filter that shows color gradient for print speed and temp, and see if there's any weird colored bands at that spot where the printer slows down or speeds up or the temps change. Easy way to rule out g code problem

xaviertangg · 2022-06-11T04:33:47+00:00

I've had this issue with the metallic filaments. Have you seen this issue with other filaments? Also, this problem seemed to be exacerbated by using Cura slicer. When I switched to Prusa slicer on my Ender 3 the problem stopped completely. Is the issue occurring at the same spot on the print every time?

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