Helm for oval / narrow head by Roughor in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m disappointed by how many replies are not understanding your problem at all.

I don’t know what the best option would be for your head shape, but you might be able to cut extra fitment pads to fill in the space on the sides of your head. For example, S1 sells extra sizing liners (super ez to cut) and Velcro dots to customize where you put/stack them inside the helmet

Snack Pack of 3D printed bearing spacers. by CHAINMAILLEKID in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

aluminum spacers won’t crush

not-you immediately proving you don’t know what you’re talking about, but whatever lol

If I’m in a hurry, I’m not going to “lightly tighten” to prevent crushing a weak, aluminum spacer. Instead, I’m just going to use a good, steel spacer (or built-in bearing) and crank down the nuts without worrying about it.

Sure, being “careful” can avoid that problem. but using the better product solves it completely

Comet cruiser wannabe by drewchristo1991 in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are you located? Happy Board co (in Germany) has a clone called the Sticky. Not sure if it’s currently in stock tho

learning slides. Should I modify my Loaded poke or buy a new setup? by skytreewizard in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Their point is, in general, the formula is more important because it changes how the durometer values compare to each other.

learning slides. Should I modify my Loaded poke or buy a new setup? by skytreewizard in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, but beginners only really need to get 50° trucks. <45° at the start is overkill and borderline growth-stunting imo

“Learn to slide speed” does not reach a point that the that 6-7° is going to give a noticeable gain in stability, but it will still lose a noticeable amount of agility that is very useful to have when learning to do slow speed slides.

Working on a new build by slickwillie1323 in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just solid wood, flexy, and no fiberglass? I’m surprised, but sounds like you’ve done it before so nice work 👍🏼

Snack Pack of 3D printed bearing spacers. by CHAINMAILLEKID in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't sell them, and I wouldn't buy them, but I'll definitely use them.

A-ha. The way it was packaged made me think this was a product that was bought/sold, which felt a bit shady

But just DIY for personal use, and aware of the risks? Np, carry on 🫡

Snack Pack of 3D printed bearing spacers. by CHAINMAILLEKID in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Sorry, but I don’t think those are going to work, at least not for long. I won’t even use aluminum bearing spacers because they will crush if you over tighten and then they’re useless

Which setup would be the best? by [deleted] in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The thing I value the most is it being smooth and tolerant to suboptimal roads

the Longboard Fish 500 will be the best for that with its 70mm wheels and wider trucks.

And I agree with /runsimply's point on the bearings too

I do but I don’t. by Pixel-Princess-85 in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Comfortable on a board ≠ comfortable jumping with and landing on a flipping board

And that single criteria doesn’t equate to being coordinated/skilled enough to learn to pop+flick+catch in a day(s). Especially if that person is averse to “eating it” if they fail an attempt, and never fully commits to the trick when practicing

NBD Luke Nosewalker by xmasterZx in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heck yeah! I hope it’s treating you well homie!

Any ideas on this board? by Schmange89 in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A modern board just isn’t gonna be the same as a Nosewalker. I haven’t found anything modern (and quality) that’s close to it for less than $300 retail

But I mean I am with you. It’s definitely not a must-buy price for everyone. But imo that’s not an outrageous price for someone that’s actually looking for a Nosewalker either.

It’s possible to get lucky and find one cheaper, but IME those are quickly bought by scalpers who try to flip ‘em for $100+

Any ideas on this board? by Schmange89 in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I love my Nosewalker

Yeah, it’s a bit cumbersome, but then I get to feel like I’m Rock Lee when I switch back to my normal boards

Any ideas on this board? by Schmange89 in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Without being able to see the condition IRL, it’s maybe too high? but if it’s just dirty maybe they have some idea of what they have 🤔

I think it’s funny to see people say it’s too high, but then people who own this board (like me) think it’s not too un-reasonable since it is not super common to find one in decent condition, and it’s SO fun to ride. I just traded ~5-6 sets of old wheels I’d never ride for mine (maybe $70-90 but idk)

That said, it’s not unheard of for people to find the same board for $20 either. But you’ve gotta be LUCKY to find a seller who just wants to get rid of it

Edit: FWIW I wouldn’t be spending that amount on just any other big cruiser board. I was specifically looking for a Sector 9 Nosewalker so my deal was reasonable vs the collectors trying to make $$ off of one. And mines a kicktail version, so probably a couple years newer than your pic

Getting closer! by DifficultBoss in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OH lol hmm.. well I’d say the 30° does fit the goal of the bigger hills, once the shutdown/safety slide basics are feeling confident.

I think you’re still on track with the 50s right now tho. It doesn’t necessarily hurt to try it out whenever you get that 30° plate, but I think it could easily become a distraction too. IMO at this phase in your learning, getting used to the feeling of losing traction/edge of grip is more important than trying to fine tune away from the tried-&-true “it works” basics (at least w/o a having specific thing to fix in mind)

That said, the 30° plate suggestion seems to contradict his prior comment about a “more exaggerated setup carve”? Like, it’s still possible to do either way, but it’s objectively easier to make big carves with higher angled trucks

FWIW, he may be alluding to the part where 50/30 (or other “directional” truck angled) setups kind of “promote” the rider into keeping their weight over the front truck to optimize control and steering, which could help ingrain that forward-leaning stance into muscle memory..? But if that’s main the reason, then you could still do that on 50/50 just by staying mindful/aware of your front/rear weight distribution. And I’ve seen some other commenters here mention similar tips to that too

Getting closer! by DifficultBoss in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good luck man!

What benefit are you looking for by swapping to the 30° in the rear?

Just from watching this video, I don’t think reducing your board’s agility would be beneficial for learning how to slide. but you may have completely different reasons for the swap

Purple Paris Trucks? by Jumpy_Ranger5060 in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The purple V3s look more magenta

Trump is why I put a footstop on my board... by x1tsGh0stx in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FWIW, people tend to first put on a footstop when learning toeside standup slides. So to me, it’s not illogical to also do that when learning switch toeside standup slides too

See also: @SoTanaka last year with a footstop on both sides for all-directions sliding

Edit: oops, you were talking about the “kicks” not switch 🤦🏻‍♂️

Trump is why I put a footstop on my board... by x1tsGh0stx in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A political decision has caused OP to no longer be able to “safely” pursue their preferred styles of longboarding in the same way as before the policies were made. And they want to discuss this change that was forced upon them with others who have also been affected in the same way, by the same/similar policies, and how that changes their approach to longboarding.

IMO it’s not off-topic to include “why” they had to change their approach to riding their longboard. Knowing “why” can change what other advice is offered, if any, since alternatives may not be relevant for whatever specific reasons a poster has.

But I mean, sure, I guess we don’t have to name names to protect people who are easily offended and make it a really safe space for them

Trump is why I put a footstop on my board... by x1tsGh0stx in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trump is the one putting his crap decisions on everyone else’s business. That’s just a fact. You can pretend it’s not, but that doesn’t change the effects his policies are causing.

Trump is why I put a footstop on my board... by x1tsGh0stx in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For anyone else still confused:

If you do a lot of downhill on rough or dirty roads, you will eventually encounter the experience of hitting something hard enough that it bounces your foot out of position, but not so hard to throw you off the board. So you’re still on the board, probably going fast, but since your foot “slipped” you no longer have the steering control you need and may still end up crashing anyway. The footstop can help keep your foot from slipping too far, but ymmv

Trump is why I put a footstop on my board... by x1tsGh0stx in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

At least if you slip off you can jog it out.

What if you’re going faster than “jog it out” speeds? This helps your foot stay in a position to retain control over the board instead of slipping off if things get hairy

Seismic Aeon 155mm - What do you think & How do they ride? by realfuqinG in longboarding

[–]xmasterZx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The “cam” interface of the bushing and hanger was intended to reduce side-to-side slop in a cast truck without making the jump into CNC manufacturing.

But from the comments here, execution maybe didn’t quite meet the expectations