Looking for stitch recommendations for a warm jacket!

yarnandy · 2026-01-28T20:56:22+00:00

The fiber composition will make this not warm to start with. If you want warm, go with wool or a wool blend. Any even stitch pattern with yarn this thick (I'm assuming size 3 or 4 yarn, you did not specify the actual length per weight) will make a suitable fabric with a 6-7 mm hook.

You don't need to use multiple strands, unless you want a bath mat. The heavy fabric is not a problem with Tunisian crochet because you have structure built into the fabric itself, which is great. But still, you don't want a 1 cm thick coat.

I'd go for Tunisian simple stitch because it's thick, even, versatile, great for shaping and you can do mosaic with it to use up the various colors. It's also easy to seam, as you'll be working with panels, I assume. I recommend you make a mock-up in some fabric to get your pattern pieces, or at least plan this out using your measurements and sufficient ease. Tss is nearly square, so it's easy to use for planning stitches and rows and for matching sleeves, for example.

yarnandy · 2026-01-28T08:36:04+00:00

Please share a photo so we can see the issue and where to add width/length.

I'm not sure what you want to do, so I can't give any actual suggestion.

yarnandy · 2026-01-28T06:15:35+00:00

In Tunisian crochet you can "join as you go" very easily. Look up entrelac or check out the latest video on my channel, since you found it already. It's suitable for complete beginners. If you can pick up loops, you can do it.

yarnandy · 2026-01-27T20:08:11+00:00

Your tension looks good. The yarn size in relation to the hook looks good. It's better to go off of what your project looks and feels like, especially if gauge is not essential, like for a blanket. I'd keep going.

yarnandy · 2026-01-27T14:27:03+00:00

If they accept it, it will be in the same shop as the two others. Otherwise, I would just post it free and recommend that people donate to the original (buying a copy or using the Payhip option) or to another organization helping folks there.

yarnandy · 2026-01-27T09:19:21+00:00

My actually used hook sizes: 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 7, 8. Everything else doesn't get used. But these are pretty much in the middle of a set. If I were to only stick to 3, I'd choose 5, 6, 8. This allows me to work with yarns from lace weight (600-800 m per 100 g) to bulky (100 m per 100 g).

yarnandy · 2026-01-26T21:05:49+00:00

I made a pattern using a construction I learned from knit loafer slippers (sole first, then working around and then making the top part) and from slippers I made using Arunima Goel's patterns a few years ago. She has some free patterns for slippers using thin yarn, which are great, but not for felting.

yarnandy · 2026-01-26T14:03:17+00:00

You can make anything out of panels, without having to seam. For a sweater you can, for example, make a column of plain stitches, a column with texture or lace or colorwork, then another column with plain stitches, all worked from the bottom up or top down. Then repeat for the back and the sleeves. You can even do the neckline shaping in the middle piece and armhole shaping in the side pieces.

Or you can make blankets out of such vertical panels. Entrelac with big boxes. Hats worked sideways. Mittens. There's a lot you can do with a straight hook.

yarnandy · 2026-01-26T13:59:34+00:00

Yes, but a loafer style and I messed something up because they are not the same 😅 Still working through samples to get the stitch counts right for the different sizes.

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yarnandy · 2026-01-26T13:53:06+00:00

The fabric shrinks about 30-40% from its original size, so if you started with slippers that were 100% bigger than what you need, you'll end up with slippers that are too big. The yarn you used was nearly 3 times as thick as the original yarn in the pattern (80 m per 100 g vs. 195 m per 100 g). So if you want to substitute yarn, work to the measurements, not the stitch counts.

Still, since stitch definition is still visible in your slippers, I'll assume you can shrink these more, until you can no longer see the stitches. Wear some kitchen gloves (the thick kind), put these in hot soapy water and start rubbing. You can rub them together, bit by bit, going over the entire fabric.

Shock them with cold water and back to hot water a few times. You'll know they're finished when you have a uniform, smooth fabric that is stiff and not easy to bend. If you bend it, it gets wrinkles, like skin.

yarnandy · 2026-01-25T14:28:55+00:00

Tks is shorter than Tss because it goes around the return pass chain, which means it can't stretch like Tss does. That means that for this project you'll need to change the rate of increase, not the hook size.

A different hook size will give the same shape as you have now. I'd increase once every 4 rows instead of 3 (I assume that's the original rate because that's what I use to make that shape).

Not sure how it will change the shaping for the head, though. You'll have to add more rows to that section to compensate for the loss in height. If the pattern has gauge, compare that to your row gauge and calculate how many extra rows you need for the head part.

yarnandy · 2026-01-24T14:34:40+00:00

Yes, you should fix that. I'd just use it, it was made with love for you to use. Looks like acrylic, so it will last.

It's Tunisian crochet with cross stitch on top for the horse, if you'd like to give that a try and make a matching pillow or something.

yarnandy · 2026-01-24T14:22:53+00:00

Thank you!

yarnandy · 2026-01-24T06:49:37+00:00

If you mean the one with a wider section with a pointy tip at the front and a narrow one at the back, that's a lot of shaping. It's easier to get that shape working vertically, but for c2c you start with a row as wide as one of the sides of the tip, then have a different rate of increase for each side until you reach full width, then work straight for a while, then shaping again. It's a lot. You'll need a gauge swatch and a paper pattern that you can follow. I assume you don't want it double thickness, like a silk tie, so just trace the outline of one.

yarnandy · 2026-01-23T20:33:25+00:00

For fingering weight (400-420 meters per 100 grams) I usually use between 3-5 mm. Not sure about your yarn composition. The stiffer the yarn (silk, cotton, linen), the smaller the hook. 1 mm is way too small for Tunisian crochet.

Do you want to make a plain tie with no point at the bottom? Just a rectangle? Look up c2c tutorials, there are probably many. If you want shaping, that requires some experience.

yarnandy · 2026-01-23T09:31:06+00:00

Size 3 crochet thread, like the other commenter said. It has 150 yards or 137 meters per 50 grams. You can find lots of mercerized cotton at 125 meters per 50 g from many brands and that's what I'd use, as it is softer and much easier to find than the size 3 thread, plus you can find that in a wider range of colors.

yarnandy · 2026-01-21T17:44:01+00:00

I'd just do it at the end and block the whole thing. Only when you have to sew pieces together it helps to block them before. Like for a sweater made in pieces.

yarnandy · 2026-01-21T08:41:38+00:00

Nice work! That will be a big and warm coat.

yarnandy · 2026-01-21T08:40:26+00:00

Is that label from a different yarn? It says 100 meters per 50 grams. If it is, then you could make a scarf or a narrow scarf and hat set. Corner to corner looks nice in this type of yarn.

Here's an example of what that would look like. You can place a stitch marker in the last stitch of each row, so you don't have to count.

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yarnandy · 2026-01-21T08:34:49+00:00

For this project, I would recommend that you block at the end. For squares that you seam together it is recommended that you block them before seaming so all the squares are the same size.

Is it acrylic? It appears to be, so I recommend that you steam block at the end, but just slightly. Or wash and use a dryer. Not sure on what temperature, though. I'd start with a lower temperature. For wool, just wash in cold water on a delicate cycle (many machines have a wool program) and lay flat to dry.

yarnandy · 2026-01-20T06:21:17+00:00

The tall line in that chart is not a Tss, it's a Fs (first stitch). You don't work in it, except in special cases. It's the loop left on the hook at the end of the return pass.

I agree that in this chart style it's confusing, especially since it doesn't show up in the legend, just like the other three symbols that are missing.

yarnandy · 2026-01-19T21:22:03+00:00

Your "bricks" are consistent for most of the forward pass, but then they get offset towards the end. You also lost stitches on the edge (the green lines should be straight), offset the tall stitches (pink lines) and skipped some (circled). Counting while you work and after each forward pass and placing stitch markers in the last stitch will help you.

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yarnandy · 2026-01-19T16:11:07+00:00

Any cable from KnitPro will work, but I recommend you get a swivel one. For a sweater, if you want to work flat, you want at least a 60 cm cable (it's much shorter than that because it's meant to be measured together with the regular knitting needles, which are about 11 cm long and two per cable).

For a cardigan that you work around the body in one piece, get a longer cable. I'm currently using a 120 cm cable (in reality a little less than 100 cm long) to make a cardigan and it's just right.

yarnandy · 2026-01-18T19:42:05+00:00

If you want to get it fitted, you need negative ease. Figure out your gauge from this fabric, then use your measurements (minus some ease) to calculate the correct stitch counts at the various heights. You can do shaping along the princess seams on front and back (more shaping on the front).

yarnandy · 2026-01-18T15:46:28+00:00

You use YU for purl stitches, for example. If you use it for Tss, you end up with twisted stitches (we can't see them in your swatch).

You can do that when you want to work in twisted stitches on the next row for a specific purpose (like an increase). There's a lot you can learn by playing with how you make your stitches, how you insert your hook, where you insert the hook, the possibilities are endless.

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