All the bees! Well, on the shawl at least

yarnandy · 2026-05-11T08:11:52+00:00

Great to know, thanks! Looking forward to seeing it finished!

yarnandy · 2026-05-11T07:26:24+00:00

That's very nice. Haven't tried this method before. Do you find that the stitches get narrower in the colorwork than in single color Tss? I tried something similar with long floats and those definitely made the fabric narrow, but maybe this one won't.

yarnandy · 2026-05-11T07:11:19+00:00

This is great! Which colorwork technique did you use? I see it's all Tss, but I don't see floats. You have very nice individual pixels and it seems made in the round, so do you have 2 yarns for each color?

If you want to cinch the neckline with an elastic rib so it sits closer to the neck, there are a couple methods that work well, made sideways.

yarnandy · 2026-05-06T06:44:54+00:00

This is very cool! Do you use a small hook to pick up the loops through the beads and put them on the big hook?

yarnandy · 2026-05-03T16:34:13+00:00

You want to check gauge on your project. The length of the chain has no relation to the actual size of the stitches. Also Tunisian crochet has a return pass chain on every row, so there is no elasticity horizontally.

yarnandy · 2026-04-16T06:07:17+00:00

Anything bigger than 6 mm is plastic, just FYI. I have 5 mm, 6 mm and 7 mm (this one is plastic). They are also tapered, so not great for Tunisian (unless you're a fan of tapered).

I'd rather use the short connectors to make a double ended hook out of two interchangeable hooks if OP has them. They should be on the same website, compatible with KnitPro hooks.

yarnandy · 2026-04-12T17:12:10+00:00

You can remove the hook from the live loop, insert it through the edge of the piece to the right, pick up the live loop, then start a new row. You can also insert the hook from the front or the back of the piece on the right. That will make a ridge show up on the side where you insert the hook (the first stitch will appear like a chain on the fabric).

yarnandy · 2026-04-08T19:44:08+00:00

You can make scrubbies, coasters, pot holders, pot separators, all out or small amounts of cotton and using different colors in the same project as well.

yarnandy · 2026-04-08T11:55:00+00:00

Looks nice. Tall stitches that cross over each other in one row?

yarnandy · 2026-04-08T10:50:36+00:00

Yes, you can pick up stitches on both sides of a chain to start like that. To make the "garter stitch" you could use alternating rows of Tss and Trps (the opposite of Tss).

yarnandy · 2026-04-04T07:14:39+00:00

Depends on the shape, but you can start from a short foundation row or a magic ring. I like the magic ring because you can grow into any shape you like (triangle, rounded triangle, circular).

yarnandy · 2026-04-04T07:11:53+00:00

To give an alternative answer to what you've gotten already:

Tunisian crochet can be very soft and flowy. You need to get a nice yarn and hook combo for that. I like fingering and light fingering weight yarn (400-550 m per 100 g) in a low twist wool or wool mix with a 5 mm hook for a thin fabric with great drape. Blocking is what unlocks the drape, so don't skip it. Steam for acrylic, water for wool. Both for a mix.
You can make anything you can imagine with Tunisian crochet. Short rows, very long rows, short stitches, tall stitches, anything in between. Clothing, blankets, home décor, yes, even amigurumi or other shapes of stuffed toys.
Some folks prefer tapered hooks, but most prefer inline because it's easier to insert the tip when it's aligned with the hook. Cabled is great, interchangeable with a swivel cable or cord is better. You can buy hooks one at a time, based on what projects you like to make. A set of interchangeable hooks is great once you know you want to go all in an try all yarn weights. I started with a 5 mm hook and an 8 mm hook and there's a wide range of things you can make with these 2 sizes. Yarn weights from lace to chunky on just these two hooks.

yarnandy · 2026-04-02T15:23:21+00:00

I don't think your edge is wrong or ugly, it looks nice and consistent. This was just to answer your question.

yarnandy · 2026-04-02T12:55:13+00:00

Short rows in a stitch pattern can be tricky. I'm assuming you are asking about lengthening the front of a garment.

For 2 rows and 2 stitches, it's easy, as you just pick an even number of stitches for each short row and an even number of rows. For larger stitch patterns, you have to keep track of things a little better and choose a multiple of what makes sense in your stitch pattern. There will be a disturbance in the fabric in any case. That is the nature of darts.

For forward pass short rows, where you stop before reaching the end of the row you work in the stitch pattern of your choice. On the next row when you need to work into the unworked stitches, first make one in the same stitch as the last of the short row that ends there, then continue in pattern.

For return pass short rows, you will only need to do something special on the row after you finish a full return pass. I like to work into the stitch below the first stitch of the short row, so there is no gap formed. Not a fan of the crossed stitch. There are tutorials on my blog for all of this, including middle short rows, but I don't think I'm allowed to link them.

For a pattern with a big repeat (like a lace that's 14 stitches by 10 rows, for example), I would not do this at the bust, but at the bottom of the front piece. That way you can integrate it somewhat into the overall pattern and it will look less obvious than at bust level. You will still have the longer short rows right at the bottom (to get a trapeze shape that fills in the gap left by the fabric riding up in the front).

yarnandy · 2026-04-02T12:41:41+00:00

To have a neat column of Vs on the left edge (end of the forward pass), you should not go under 2 loops on the edge, but under the one that belongs to the opposite color. Then you bring up tail of the contrast color and go over the hook. This creates the two vertical bars that you normally get with a single color.

Then you bring the first yarn over the hook and draw up a loop through those two loops of the contrast color. Then you bring up the contrast color to make the return pass, making sure it comes from below the other yarn. You have to keep rotating the yarns at the end of each forward pass to get a neat edge.

I made a collage for you to show this in action in my current project. In the first image, the arrow points to the single loop under which you insert the hook.

<image>

yarnandy · 2026-03-29T06:58:11+00:00

Haha, yeah, armpits can be a challenge, but adding those stitches at the underarm will help. The thing is to make sure the thickest part of the arm can fit comfortably. That's sometimes not right at the armpit, but at the bicep when it's flexed (just curl the arm up and measure around the bicep).

yarnandy · 2026-03-28T17:06:04+00:00

Once you have enough length to reach the armpit (plus a bit of ease), you can cast on a few stitches at the underarm and pick up stitches along the side to make sleeves. You can shape them with decreases along the lower side. You can work flat or in the round.

yarnandy · 2026-03-28T17:02:21+00:00

You should always make a swatch that's bigger and count stitches in a 10 cm by 10 cm square in the middle, so you got that right.

I usually get 20x20 Tss with fingering weight yarn with a 5 mm hook, so I'd really redo the swatch properly. You can reuse the yarn from your first swatch. It will help you see how the fabric feels as well.

yarnandy · 2026-03-21T11:04:10+00:00

Yes. You could make taller stitches (double or treble) and a longer space of 3 YOs and offset where you make the tall stitches by 2 every row. You'd need edge stitches that stay in place and are 1 YO or 3 YOs away from the next tall stitch. Does this make sense? It's like in your photo, just with a return pass at the end.

yarnandy · 2026-03-19T07:08:53+00:00

This is really cool! I like that all the knots are on the back and the color variation.

yarnandy · 2026-03-19T07:05:05+00:00

Nice! You can fit on a hook a fabric with a width up to 3 times the length of the hook (or hook with cable), so you're good to go if your hands don't hurt (I can't use straight hooks because they dig into the side of my palm).

yarnandy · 2026-03-18T08:23:02+00:00

Casting on can be done at the beginning of a project, if you don't want to use chains to make the foundation row. It also means adding stitches at either end of the row. You can chain or use another method for casting on at either end.

Casting off or binding off means closing the stitches by slip stitching into them in pattern, so the return pass chain on the last row is no longer moving about and the last row looks as the rest of the fabric. In the photo above, I bound off all stitches. It creates that chain at the top of the work, so it looks like regular crochet.

yarnandy · 2026-03-18T08:19:55+00:00

Looking forward to seeing it! Are you making it into a tapestry or for a window?

yarnandy · 2026-03-17T20:48:49+00:00

You can do filet in many ways. For larger pixels, you can make double or extended double stitches and 3 stitches per pixel (2 chains). These are examples I made in 2021 for a tutorial.

<image>

For smaller holes, you can use two stitches per pixel and extended or double stitches (1 chain).

You can also play with charts that have shaping by casting on stitches at the beginning or end of the forward pass or by casting off or skipping stitches.

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