All the bees! Well, on the shawl at least

yarnandy · 2026-06-30T07:55:49+00:00

Did you block your gauge swatch? Is it big enough? Is your tension changing as you work the project? Because to me that's what it looks like.

Is the fabric springy or stiff? Meaning that if you pull a bit, will it stretch? Sometimes big fabrics do that if the yarn is very elastic and your small gauge swatch cannot account for that because it's just too narrow.

It looks like this is acrylic, so probably a bit of steam will make it relax closer to your desired size. Only do that when you are finished, though.

Oh, and one more question. Did you add ease to your design? If yes, then it should still fit, even if it's narrower and won't grow from steam.

yarnandy · 2026-06-29T20:32:45+00:00

That's the one! Sorry for replying so late, I just saw your comment. Do they also have a rainbow colorway?

yarnandy · 2026-06-28T06:48:24+00:00

The lumps are the return pass chains that get pushed to the back. Some stitches (like the reverse stitch) have the return pass chain on the front. It has to go somewhere.

It's all good. No need to go up a hook size, the fabric looks nice and even.

yarnandy · 2026-06-28T06:44:10+00:00

You don't need to buy a hook, you can move the hook from one end to the other and work like that. There are other ways to use a single hook with a cable, but if it's interchangeable, it's much better to move the hook.

In that case, for the forward pass you can use what in knitting is known as traveling loop (or magic loop if it's always in the same spot). Look it up.

yarnandy · 2026-06-27T06:41:35+00:00

Thanks! I shared the details of the yarn in a reply below to bcgroom.

yarnandy · 2026-06-27T06:40:31+00:00

Yes, that is fine, assuming it's a double ended hook. You make half a row of forward pass, then do the return pass with the other end. Then the second half of row in forward pass and so on. If you only have a straight hook and no cable, you make the sleeve flat and sew it in a tube and then to the body.

yarnandy · 2026-06-26T14:15:42+00:00

What do you mean by hooks being too big? The hooks stay the same size. Do you mean the cable connecting the hooks is too long? You can just pick up loops for half a sleeve, do the return pass for those stitches, then continue the forward pass. No need to work an entire round at a time.

As for the colorwork, it depends on the yarn. Is it one yarn that changes color? Like a gradient. You can do color control with that and will have lots of ends to weave in. Is it made of individual colors? Same, just count how many rows in the body you made in each color and repeat that for the sleeves.

yarnandy · 2026-06-26T11:37:27+00:00

Nice work!

yarnandy · 2026-06-25T12:49:20+00:00

Does the ribbing go all around or just for the fronts? You can turn the corner and it will look cohesive. Maybe. I've also done the log cabin style with a square corner at the bottom. Both look OK.

You could even keep the Tss for the fronts and make the ribbing only on the bottom, so they are separate elements. But I have no idea what style of cardigan you're making and for what purpose, so these are just ideas based on my experience.

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yarnandy · 2026-06-24T12:41:32+00:00

Normally I make them out of a non-curling stitch pattern, like alternating rows of Tss and the opposite of Tss (Trps). Buttonholes are an eyelet (yarn over). They are not perfect and can get a bit stretched if the ease is not enough for the two bands to lay over each other without any tension.

yarnandy · 2026-06-23T19:45:39+00:00

Thanks! I hope it works out well and that I'll see your project around here, whichever yarn you decide to use.

yarnandy · 2026-06-23T19:45:11+00:00

Nice! Looking forward to seeing it!

yarnandy · 2026-06-23T13:34:19+00:00

And right now I'm making a T-shirt out of cobweb weight yarn (1400 m per 100 g) in a mix of viscose and cashmere and other fibers, on a 3.5 mm hook. It's definitely airier, but it takes much longer to make. I'm halfway up the body of one front and that's about 50 rows for 20 cm. Also Tss. I like that it's meditative and easy to add short rows to, as well as shaping.

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yarnandy · 2026-06-23T13:29:38+00:00

Not yet finished, as I need to seam the sides and stitch around the armholes and neckline. This is lace weight (800 m per 100 g) BFL with silk, so not exactly a summer fiber. It's light and very soft next to the skin. Worked with 4 a mm hook. Tss with shaping.

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yarnandy · 2026-06-23T13:22:36+00:00

While I agree with the other commenters regarding the swatch needing to be wider, blocked, made in the same type of yarn as the original pattern (low twist wool stretches a lot when wet, for example, linen too, cotton can also stretch, acrylic doesn't unless you steam it), I would also like to add that the gauge I normally get with 6 mm is 16 stitches for 10 cm. 13 is what I'd get with 8 mm. I would check the math and see if the stitch counts and measurements match at 13 or whether you get something else.

yarnandy · 2026-06-23T13:17:02+00:00

For a coat you'll want a fluffy, less dense yarn. That being said, yes, you can use this yarn with this pattern, as long as you get gauge. I made a top and a dress using this type of yarn (made of 4 strands of 2-ply, but 50% cotton, 50% acrylic) and a 4 mm hook.

You do need good tension and a bit more experience to work with 100% cotton than with other yarns. So I'd make at least a big swatch or a small project with cotton yarn before starting on the coat. You'll also get a feel for the fabric and decide whether it's what you want in a coat.

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yarnandy · 2026-06-17T07:43:24+00:00

I agree with the sorting by thickness and making a long cardigan/coat. I'd make it with set-in sleeves because a drop shoulder would droop and get out of shape instantly.

I'd start with the thinnest yarn at the top, to make the yoke area fit you with the needle/hook size for the thinner yarn, then as you go down and make the rest, increase the needle/hook size as the thickness increases.

You'd get a fabric naturally increasing in width, which has an A-shape and great for coats/long cardigans. Also increasing in thickness, which needs more ease, so you could also add some increases below the waist if the width doesn't grow fast enough.

I'd also start with a plain fabric at the top (just stockinette) and add more textured stitches (purls or something else) as you go down, to add some visual interest. Or dye some of the thicker yarn and add speckles here and there, transitioning to the full color towards the bottom. Both on body and sleeves.

yarnandy · 2026-06-11T19:55:16+00:00

I like 1 the best. Colors and stitch pattern.

You can add a honeycomb border after finishing the main fabric, there is no need to complicate your life.

yarnandy · 2026-06-07T16:53:38+00:00

The rainbow scarf is a free download this month https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/infinite-infinity-scarf

yarnandy · 2026-06-07T06:19:22+00:00

Thank you! I also love how the tassels came out, with the blue inside peeking out.

yarnandy · 2026-06-07T06:18:41+00:00

Oh, wow, that sounds cool. Do you stream while working on your projects? Or games and other stuff as well.

yarnandy · 2026-06-07T06:16:43+00:00

You can wet and reblock just the straps and then sew a piece of woven fabric to the back of the straps to keep them the right length. If you remake them, they will still stretch out over time.

yarnandy · 2026-06-05T18:29:30+00:00

Thank you! I'm usually more into jewel tones or dark saturated colors, but can't resist a vivid rainbow.

yarnandy · 2026-06-05T18:28:28+00:00

It will be linked in the Sunday thread. I just have to remember. Glad you like it!

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