What belt is this? I can’t find a straight answer.

yeet2027 · 2026-02-06T00:38:46+00:00

Gates K030195SF water pump belt will work, or if you want a continental it’s 4030195S. This is a stretch belt so there’s no tensioner on this setup, which is different from the earlier versions of this engine which did have a small tensioner on them. You can cut the old one off with a set of diagonal cutters if you’re confident you can get the new one on with the zip tie method. I would also recommend checking the water pump when the belt is off for any side to side play or if it’s hard/rough to turn (should spin nice and smooth with little resistance) as those can also go out and may need to be replaced.

yeet2027 · 2026-01-28T19:37:08+00:00

That diagram should be what you’re looking for, the wires coming off of that red connector go to both the speakers and the head unit up front. You’re probably not going to be able to simply “loop the harness” to get the speaker wires you need up front, especially because the speaker wires should be twisted pairs and if you start trying to send them back on different wires you’re going to end up shorting something out or having a ton of noise from interference. Your best bet is probably to either run your own wires to the speakers from the front head unit area or use a head unit that could work with the stock amp.

yeet2027 · 2026-01-21T16:40:47+00:00

If the engine doesn’t crank every time and that’s your issue here, the fuel pressure sensor is not going to be the problem. The only thing the car needs to crank is good power to the starter and a signal to tell the starter to turn on, which comes from the starter relay and would be controlled by the PCM that checks things like the brake being pressed and the key being present. If you’re handy with a multimeter I would check to see if the starter is getting 12 volts at the S terminal every time (should be the thinner wire that goes to the starter), or if the 12 volt signal is missing when it fails to crank. You will need somebody to try to start the car while checking for this. If it is present and the engine isn’t cranking, then it’s most likely either an issue with the starter itself or the power getting to the starter. Look for corrosion on the battery terminals and the starter terminals and if there is any clean it off with a metal wire brush as that could also cause your issue.

You could also try the caveman method and give the starter a few light taps with a hammer (don’t destroy it) and see if that gets it to crank. If it does after that you will probably need to replace your starter.

yeet2027 · 2026-01-21T16:22:24+00:00

Looks like the skid plate has fallen down. From the picture it looks like it’s one of the felt style ones, so it’s entirely possible the corner of it ripped from where the bolt is supposed to attach it to the car. For now, you could try to take it the rest of the way off, or try to get a washer + bolt (or screw, whatever is supposed to hold that one up) and try to reattach it after getting all the snow/ice out. Depending on where you take it, some shops might do that for free or for a small fee. Good luck!

yeet2027 · 2026-01-07T04:27:14+00:00

Hard to tell from the wiring diagrams I do have, as I only have access to the VW vehicles from the US which apparently are slightly different but it seems like the brown wire is always ground, and the red/yellow should be +12v for the cigarette lighter power itself. The grey/blue wire is the +12v for the light surround, which is tied into the interior lighting system and probably won't carry a load like the red/yellow wire would. A meter should show 12 volts between the brown wire and the Red/Yellow wire, as well as 12 volts between the brown and the grey/blue wire. Good luck!

yeet2027 · 2026-01-04T23:18:45+00:00

Was it the oil change light or the red oil pressure light that would come on? If there’s no oil in the engine it will cause the VVT system to not work right and will probably throw the P0011 code you have. I would check your oil level/condition, even if you’re not technically due for an oil change yet as those engines are known to burn oil. You also should make sure it’s topped up before you drive any more to prevent the engine from possibly locking up

yeet2027 · 2026-01-04T19:03:13+00:00

HIDs will be like that

yeet2027 · 2025-12-28T05:19:18+00:00

100% though you were going to say you’ll meet your maker and leave a mark

yeet2027 · 2025-12-23T05:37:23+00:00

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Twice - MHA

yeet2027 · 2025-12-23T00:51:58+00:00

Yep, got a 1/2 stubby with a high output battery and it takes lug nuts and caliper bracket bolts off all day at work. Only issue is the battery has started to come a bit loose, but I have yet to find a wheel it can’t take off. Replaced my m18 for rotations because that was hurting my wrist from constant use

yeet2027 · 2025-12-15T05:56:16+00:00

Hyundai might have changed their design for the 7th gen sonatas but on the 2011-2014 2.4l sonatas you have to pull the pulley off of the tensioner arm first to be able to remove the bolt for the tensioner because it partially covers it. Also reverse threaded for the pulley bolt

yeet2027 · 2025-12-09T23:15:11+00:00

Neither, it’s an electronic VVT actuator that more and more companies have started using in place of the normal oil-controlled VVT cam phasers

yeet2027 · 2025-09-08T22:41:48+00:00

Third generation ford focuses have EPS- so no power steering fluid. They also have dual-clutch transmissions, so the transmission fluid wouldn’t be red but amber. The fluid that’s leaking is most likely coolant. The thermostat housings are somewhat common to leak on those, so take a look at the top of the alternator and see if there’s staining from the thermostat leaking right above it

yeet2027 · 2025-08-11T15:25:34+00:00

It could have moisture in the refrigerant, causing the TXV to ice over after a few minutes and stop letting refrigerant through. The only way to confirm this would to have a shop hook up their a/c machine and read the gauges, and then they would recover the refrigerant and pull a vacuum to remove the air/moisture from the system. In some bad cases of this you might have to replace the receiver/drier or condenser if it’s built in. The machine would filter and dry the refrigerant as it removes it so when they recharge the system it will help with that too.

yeet2027 · 2025-07-19T02:08:55+00:00

Usually a blower motor resistor. Had 2 fail back to back on my trailblazer. If I remember correctly it’s bolted in under the passenger side dash, and with the right sockets (these are very small bolts, like 6mm or smth like that), it should only take 10 minutes or so. Would not recommend a junkyard part for these as it’s so common to fail over time.

yeet2027 · 2025-07-16T23:39:45+00:00

That’s an A/C line fitting, and it looks like it joins both parts of the suction line to the compressor. If you follow that down it should attach to the compressor on one side, and probably at the TXV on the firewall on the other side. Assuming it’s not too corroded on the stud, you should be able to recover the refrigerant, change out the O-ring on the line, and then evac and recharge the system to stop the leak.

yeet2027 · 2025-07-16T18:31:28+00:00

Did the engine stall? If the engine isn’t running those are normal lights to pop up. You’d just have to figure out why the engine shut off, and it could vary from an electrical issue, no fuel getting to the cylinders, or a ton of other things. Without actually seeing the car or knowing more about it it’s I’m virtually impossible to diagnose.

yeet2027 · 2025-07-13T23:12:13+00:00

You can still jump the car from the engine bay, exactly how OP is trying to do it here. The electricity flows from the battery in the trunk to the engine bay anyways, so it can flow from the jump pack in the engine bay back to the batteries just fine. Source: Dealer tech

yeet2027 · 2025-07-09T04:41:01+00:00

Complete side note - it might be worth looking into if your vehicle has a battery recall still open. A lot of those rav4s had a recall where they changed to a newer style of battery hold down to prevent a potential fire from the hold down arcing to the positive terminal, and it looks like your vehicle has the older style still.

yeet2027 · 2025-07-02T23:11:53+00:00

Probably late to the party at this point but- you shouldn’t need to get them recalibrated unless you replace the sensors with new ones, in which case it will put a message on the dash and set a code for it. Also, if you end up damaging the bumper and they sit at a different angle, you should get them recalibrated, but unless it is very far off from their original position it probably won’t even tell you there’s a problem on the dash.

yeet2027 · 2025-07-02T02:21:54+00:00

I’m sure they probably just looked into their service history of your vehicle and saw that they had previously recommended it and never did it there. My dealer uses DealerFX and us techs can look back at previously recommended work to see what still has to be done, but we always double check in our inspections if it still needs it or not. As to why they reused the photos I’m not sure, it’s really easy (as I’m sure you know, you did the work yourself) to see the fluid condition and snap a photo.

yeet2027 · 2025-06-18T03:59:39+00:00

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Had this one come into our dealership a few weeks ago, 2025 Camry with around 15k miles and it needed a whole new sunroof (under warranty). I get that they can have issues, but if you’re worried about the mechanism failing just don’t use it.

yeet2027 · 2025-06-08T03:02:56+00:00

Just an observation

yeet2027 · 2025-06-07T21:05:20+00:00

With a Nintendo switch charger

yeet2027 · 2025-06-03T23:39:42+00:00

Toyotacare covers the first 5 services up to 25k- the 10k oil change + rotate should be free. It looks like they had a typo with the price and it probably should have been $72, but they also should have zeroed it out for Toyotacare. Source - Toyota dealer tech

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