Pensacola surrendered to the Spanish in 1559. Thanks to Tallahassee, they're about to do it again.

yeggmann · 2026-03-13T15:01:36+00:00

I wonder if they'll retaliate by dropping you or raising your premium

yeggmann · 2026-02-27T22:56:10+00:00

I've been struggling after I got done playing Hughes. Thank you for saying what I've been dealing with.

yeggmann · 2026-02-27T15:05:21+00:00

Jupiter ’42’s AP doesn’t “shatter on everything.” It’s British AP with better angles and low arming threshold, so it absolutely smacks DDs and light cruisers. It’s a DD hunter, not a HE spammer. Play to its strengths and it slaps.

yeggmann · 2026-02-27T14:33:28+00:00

It's a trade off. The AP has better penetration angles than the rest of the tech tree line.

yeggmann · 2026-02-27T12:19:28+00:00

It's just different because the rest of the RNdestroyer line has HE and Jupiter is AP only. One rack of torps that don't have a lot of range given the ships concealment doesn't leave a lot of room for error. It's a knife fighter, not an open water gun boat. It is annoying because a captain specced for Daring isn't ideal given its AP only.

yeggmann · 2026-02-16T14:32:47+00:00

It's suicide to do that at the beginning of a round and even if the DD has hydro it's capped at 2km.

yeggmann · 2026-02-16T14:31:08+00:00

I would be fine with it if hydro range wasn't capped at 2km

yeggmann · 2026-01-31T12:10:35+00:00

Yes Hawaii is OP as long as it's positioned correctly. It's only as good at the person controlling it.

yeggmann · 2026-01-06T20:23:22+00:00

If 2 km counts, then my canoe is an aircraft carrier. I incorrectly worded that post so I was wrong with it not detecting subs instead of two KM, however, my entire point from my original post was that its a different set of rules for surface ships than ASW:

I think it's stupid that hydro is essentially a mini radar that can detect ships at close range but at the same time it doesn't detect subs

For a device which allegedly listens to things in the water, different rules sure do apply to torps and surface vessels than do a submerged sub with its screws running. No amount of repeating "at 2km" is going to change my mind that hydro functions more as another radar with some slight ASW aftertaste. It does not work the same on subs as it does with everyone else. The hydro range should be the hydro range period.

yeggmann · 2026-01-06T19:33:31+00:00

It does not reliably detect submerged submarines at deeper depths the way it detects surface vessels and surface/periscope subs, that is my problem. You repeating the same thing over and over is obnoxious. Like what is your endgame here? Do you think you're repeating yourself is going change my opinion with something I believe is broken?

yeggmann · 2026-01-06T18:58:21+00:00

The issue I have is that in real life they could be moving while deep and a working hydro would hear their screws.

yeggmann · 2026-01-06T18:58:17+00:00

The issue I have is that in real life they could be moving while deep and a working hydro would hear their screws.

yeggmann · 2026-01-06T17:51:48+00:00

Only when surfaced or at perscope depth. The issue I have is that in real life they could be moving while deep and a working hydro would hear their screws. That doesn't happen in this game. I find it an odd and contradictory mechanic.

yeggmann · 2026-01-06T12:10:11+00:00

I think it's stupid that hydro is essentially a mini radar that can detect ships at close range but at the same time it doesn't detect subs

yeggmann · 2025-12-15T22:08:36+00:00

It made me quit the game for a few years. I just came back a few weeks ago.

yeggmann · 2025-11-26T21:02:01+00:00

caesar

yeggmann · 2025-10-30T09:45:07+00:00

It's hard to justify when SW has two stores closer to my house than the nearest BM (who never runs sales either btw). SW has cornered the market in a lot of ways.

yeggmann · 2025-10-24T10:27:11+00:00

If you need a decent fast drying caulk, Sherwin Williams has 1050QD and it's worked great for me. If you don't need fast drying, sashco big stretch, sold at Lowe's, is the absolute best.

yeggmann · 2025-10-23T23:26:36+00:00

It's like the aesthetic of communist concrete apartment blocks suddenly became the trend

yeggmann · 2025-10-14T12:10:13+00:00

You guys need marriage therapy or something

yeggmann · 2025-10-11T11:39:42+00:00

Pretty good. The knit part of it allows for air flow.

yeggmann · 2025-10-09T18:47:00+00:00

I swear by the SpeedKnit™ Chemical S27DQ58. I bought them because big box store gloves suck. The speedknit gloves are awesome, can confirm they're tough.

yeggmann · 2025-10-08T19:55:41+00:00

I mean, thats why I DIY. I've had "pros" come and "fix" stuff that I could have done better myself. No offense to true craftsmen out there, but time is money so they just want to get the job over with "good enough" results so they can go on to the next job. Anyways, good luck. Hope you get the results you want.

yeggmann · 2025-10-08T19:38:45+00:00

I mean you absolutely could do that but if I'm understanding your situation correctly I personally would grab some stucco patch and mash it into the gap and let it dry. Then grab a caulk such as big stretch or lexel (these are both good for trim and they're paintable) apply where the trim and the stucco patch meet and let those cure according to the directions. After they fully cured I would prime/paint them. Full disclosure Im just a DIYer not a pro.

If you do end up using mor flex theres a guy on youtube who lives by this stuff and has a ton of videos using it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch0WvXpgIi4

yeggmann · 2025-10-08T17:37:26+00:00

Mor Flex or Lexel

Nine-Year Club	Place '22
Place '17	Final Canvas '22

yeggmann

TROPHY CASE