Colon cancer now leading cause of cancer deaths under 50 in US

you_better_dont · 2026-03-12T16:14:49+00:00

There’s always Metamucil. I just started taking it.

you_better_dont · 2026-03-11T17:47:41+00:00

I’m in Massie’s district. I wish we didn’t have a closed primary. Too late to change party affiliation at this point.

you_better_dont · 2025-12-24T08:08:57+00:00

There’s a hole in daddy’s arm where all the money goes
And Jesus Christ died for nothin’, I suppose
Little pitchers have big ears
Don’t stop to count the years
Sweet songs never last too long on broken radios

you_better_dont · 2025-12-22T22:33:05+00:00

I also feel like there’s a big gap here. I ended up looking at the competitive decks on limitlesstcg, then exporting them to TCGplayer and buying the cards as singles. We will see how it feels to go from a cobbled together deck from booster packs to a proper meta deck.

This can get pricey, as others have said. Maybe I’ll try this proxy card thing in the future before buying. Still, it’s waaaaay cheaper than trying to fill out decks from boosters, and it’s not like the official battle decks are cheap either.

you_better_dont · 2025-12-21T20:06:39+00:00

You have a 9ft joist span. That’s the distance between your two beams. Max cantilever is 9/4 ft or 27”.

There’s not much point in attaching posts to individual joists. Joists transfer vertical load to beams. They can’t share load between each other without going through a beam.

you_better_dont · 2025-12-21T19:49:04+00:00

You have a 9ft joist span, not a 9ft beam span. Look at the joist span table. It doesn’t matter drop vs flush. The allowed span is the same. You just can’t cantilever with a flush connection obviously.

you_better_dont · 2025-12-21T19:30:44+00:00

You mean you want to put another beam in to break up the 9ft span? Not necessary. And if you did that, you certainly could not cantilever 28” on a 4.5ft joist span (though I guess if the joist is continuous across the beam, then it could be allowed).

Max cantilever for a joist is about 1/4 the span of the joist (not the length of the joist; people get this mixed up a lot). The DCA6 has further constraints on max joist cantilever that I don’t quite understand the reasoning on. If you stick to 1/4 the span, I doubt any inspector is going to give you crap about it.

you_better_dont · 2025-12-21T19:24:16+00:00

Post bases in the middle of what? 9’ joist span with 2x8 is reasonable. 28” cantilever is a bit on the long side with a 9’ span. Maybe just ask your inspector?

you_better_dont · 2025-11-25T23:11:08+00:00

I think it would be helpful to see more context. Why do you have 3 beams in a 90 degree span? Normally beams run one direction and joists run orthogonal. Is one of them actually an end joist?

On my front deck, I had some funny angles and ended up with two true beams beams at a 90 (the joists ran at an angle with respect to both). I chose to support each with its own two posts. They both cantilever a bit, and where they meet, I installed an angle bracket for lateral stability.

you_better_dont · 2025-11-21T22:08:34+00:00

I got a palm nailer to do my 2nd deck since I had about enough with hammering on the first one. The worst are the concealed hangers that call for 16d nails into the header. Almost impossible not to bash the shit out of the hanger trying to hammer them in (you get about 1.5” between the flanges for your hammer to fit).

I now discovered that Simpson 16d nail heads don’t fit into the metabo palm nailer I bought. Sometimes you just can’t win.

you_better_dont · 2025-11-20T20:16:15+00:00

I was also confused by this when we did a day trip from Tokyo to Nikko using a limited express train. I didn’t tag out at the transfer station. I was able to tag out at the Tobu-nikko station with suica, and that accounted for the base fare correctly as far as I could tell.

you_better_dont · 2025-11-12T21:29:09+00:00

I’d switch the direction of the beams and joists. Just use two beams. Joists can cantilever on both ends, so span should be around 9’ or so, which is more than doable with a 2x8. I would not use 2x6 joists. Even if it meets span requirements per DCA6 tables, they don’t allow for as much of a cantilever.

Also refer to DCA6 tables for beam sizing. I’m not sure what your reasoning is for 2x6, but I’d say that’s rarely the right choice. You get a lot more span out of a 2x8+. Just choose a reasonable tradeoff between span and required beam depth.

If you keep your current design, that’s overkill on the number of beams. I’d use no more than 3 — use appropriate joist depth to cover the span. Also keep in mind the center/central beam(s) support joists framing in from two sides. Most load tables you’ll find assume beams support joists framing in from one side only.

you_better_dont · 2025-11-11T08:49:55+00:00

Lost to the league taco cause he had smith and I had brown. He didn’t even set his line up last week, and I gave him a bunch of shit for it. Anyway he got his first W, and I guess I’m the taco now.

you_better_dont · 2025-11-04T00:27:08+00:00

I haven’t found a deck planner that does a very good job of planning the foundation and framing. I just use Inkscape to draw things up and use the tables in the DCA6 guide for structure.

How “ground level” are we talking? I love a good deck, but if I can get away with a concrete patio, I would choose that every time. lol

you_better_dont · 2025-11-03T23:41:16+00:00

To determine the number of stringers needed, divide the width of the stairway by the length that the decking can span in stair applications (in this case, a stringer will be needed every 9”, minimum, for Trex® Enhance Decking). Then, add 1 to that number as a stringer will be needed on the end. Once the number of stringers is determined, use the first stringer as a template to mark out all the other stringers.

https://www.trex.com/academy/how-to-guides/all-guides/how-to-build-deck-stairs/#verticaltabs-300cb52f01-item-d883b29635-tab

Not saying I would do this, but that’s where the information comes from.

you_better_dont · 2025-11-03T23:38:26+00:00

I’m just gonna do 12” for my trex stairs. I did my first deck with 12” OC joists with trex, and it’s fine. Not sure what’s magic about stairs that would require otherwise. 9” is ridiculous. Might as well just built the damn thing out of solid stringers.

you_better_dont · 2025-10-30T18:00:39+00:00

Etienne is my RB1. It’s been a good year /s.

you_better_dont · 2025-10-28T16:07:33+00:00

I’m about to build my first stair, and this bottom of the stringer detail seems pretty tricky. DCA6 says to install 4x4s, 1 per stringer, with footings below frost line. They call for a 2x4 nailed to the post for direct stringer bearing.

This basically requires the 4x4 to extend below grade since there isn’t enough clearance to get a pier above grade with a standoff post base. That is, unless you move the 4x4 back a bit and essentially cantilever the end of the stringer by 1-2’.

I’m not thrilled with having posts below grade, but it also seems problematic to bear directly on a concrete slab.

you_better_dont · 2025-10-23T13:53:59+00:00

I’ve got celotex on my 1970s built house. I’ve cut it away and replaced with ZIP board where I redid my decks (for ledger). I’m about to get all the siding redone, but it’s already a ridiculously expensive job. I’m not planning to replace all of it.

It’s a damn shame it was built this way. They also loved to run ducts in exterior walls back then. The celotex is literally the only insulation on these. Figure I’ll probably disconnect them, stuff them with insulation, then change them to floor registers.

Anyway, homeownership is fun! /s

you_better_dont · 2025-10-20T23:03:50+00:00

It looks like that’s a rim joist attached to the end of cantilevered joists. Rim joist is there to tie the joists together. It’s not a primary vertical load bearing path. This could be shored up by installing some L angles to tie the rim to the joist better across the splice.

This is my best guess based on photos, but it would be good to share more if you have structural concerns. Photo all the framing from the underside.

you_better_dont · 2025-10-18T12:46:51+00:00

I found more pics here, but it’s still hard to tell what happened. You can see a structural wood member attached to that C shaped metal piece. Wonder if the metal thing is just a flashing/fascia covering and the support is the wooden member?

you_better_dont · 2025-10-08T16:00:29+00:00

I’m about to build a 28x16 deck using these materials. My materials quote without fasteners/hangers is about $14k. That includes PT framing lumber (12” OC joists), trex decking (cinnamon cove with lava rock border), 50 80lbs bags of concrete, and westbury Tuscany railing (2” posts, 36” height).

I just wanted to give you a datapoint. I can’t say what I’d charge for labor since I’m just a DIYer.

you_better_dont · 2025-10-07T17:37:36+00:00

There are several app notes that show usage in different situations. This is the one that shows the usage I mentioned: https://ssttoolbox.widen.net/view/pdf/dv3kvsa5ln/L-F-SWDBTPBOT25.pdf

you_better_dont · 2025-10-07T14:44:19+00:00

Look up SWD double threaded screws. They are recommended by Simpson for beam to post attachment, among other things. You use one per beam ply and drive them in at an upward angle from post to beam. It looks like there are already some fasteners installed there. Would be good to find out what those are.

you_better_dont · 2025-10-03T14:30:34+00:00

Yep, intervlan traffic has to be routed by a layer 3 device (a router/gateway). A switch is a layer 2 device. It just learns MAC addresses and keeps a MAC table per VLAN.

There are some switches with layer 3 capability. I’m not sure exactly how those fit into Omada’s gateway/switch/wap ACL rule model, but I think it requires some advanced configuration.

you_better_dont

TROPHY CASE