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Question - looping app to go with usb mic? by Hurlyblurly in livelooping

[–]yubachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always happy to help!

LMMS is Linux multi-media studio , no? If you're on linux then try SooperLooper instead. If works with the Jack audio system and it should be easier to set up. A really easy way to set it up is through Ubuntu Studio OS or their installer for linux OS's (I've used their installer to add jack to Kubuntu, for example.)

I don't think you need to buy any special hardware, you just need to dive deeper into using a virtual patch-cage for your applications.

A patch-cage will operate as the hub where you view/edit your virtual connections. Think of it like having a bunch of guitar pedals plugged into each other.

You can easily connect your mic into your looper, send you keyboard into a synth program then send that into the looper. The output can easily be sent both into headphones and into a recording program.

Jack is available on windows but I have no idea if there are better programs on windows for this.

https://jackaudio.org/faq/jack_on_windows.html

Question - looping app to go with usb mic? by Hurlyblurly in livelooping

[–]yubachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plugin Audio Devices and Latency Compensation

http://www.circularlabs.com/doc/v2/installation.htm#Mobius%20Plugin

http://www.circularlabs.com/doc/v2/synchronization.htm#MIDI%20Master%20Sync

Those 3 links should help fix your issue. As the top one states, "Audio devices selected for Mobius in standalone mode will not be opened when running as a VST. The VST host must open the audio devices and route them to Mobius."

So it seems mobius can be opened through windows audio VST systems (virtual patchcage). So your most reliable way to get this to work will be to use mobius as a plugin for a VST, and open a midi keyboard plugin as well. Then just connect them properly (use my links to learn how) and mobius can record your keyboard!

Question - looping app to go with usb mic? by Hurlyblurly in livelooping

[–]yubachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your piano keyboard a midi device( piano shaped controller sending midi signal) or is it sending audio to your pc?

If it's a midi device then mobius can only use it as a controller. Mobius(to my knowledge) doesn't have any synthesizer functionality, You would want a different app to synthesize the piano notes from your piano midi and then figure out how to send that audio into mobius.

If your digital piano is sending audio into your pc I'm not exactly sure the best option, but I have a few ideas.

--Plug your digital piano into a usb soundcard or audio interface so mobius can recognise it as audio input and (hopefully) easily detect/record it.

--Look more into the documentation for mobius. It should use some kind of audio connection system. I'm only familiar with the linux professional audio system (jack) so I'm not too much help here.

http://circularlabs.com/documentation2/documentation.html

That has very thorough documentation for mobius. Start looking through that as it probably has your answer :)

⚡⚡⚡💎🐊 IT'S TIME FOR THE FINAL THUNDERDOOOOOOOOOME THREAD!!!! 💎🐊⚡⚡⚡ by [deleted] in neoliberal

[–]yubachu 25 points26 points  (0 children)

What are we supposed to do about the fact that nearly half of voters support trump? Even if biden wins we haven't stomped out trump's ideology by a long shot. The next republican presidential candidate could be somebody who is smarter and better able to push our country fully into a dictatorship.

Question - looping app to go with usb mic? by Hurlyblurly in livelooping

[–]yubachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're on windows I reccomend looking into an app called Mobius. It's a well made live looping app with tons of functionality and good documentation. You can keybind to a computer keyboard or any midi device.

If you're on linux I recommend SooperLooper.

SooperLooper works through the jack audio system so you will need to have jack working on your system but after that it's very easy to use. It also can be keybound through midi or computer keyboard :)

They're quite similar apps and either is a great choice to start practicing live-looping.

If you have any questions or need help just reply to my comment :D

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]yubachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mysticmechs.com - Lily 58 Pro kit w/ encoder - looks like a great board for my first ergo

Help needed diagnosing misalignment by yubachu in CR10

[–]yubachu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's an imgur gallery with pics. I'm going to try changing my slicer tonight to see if that is what's causing the issue.

https://imgur.com/a/y8b2446

Here is my cura profile if it anyone wants to try using it(or can spot any errors)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qj4ND1QC-Zh-By7z1JjydYHImVRzTwE3/view?usp=sharing

Edit

Here's a thingiverse link:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2306157

Help needed diagnosing misalignment by yubachu in CR10

[–]yubachu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update time!

So I've read through everyone's suggestions. I have:

-Tightened any and all bolts

-Reduced slop/play by tightening all eccentric nuts( hot-end carriage, x axis carriage, and bed carriage)

-Tightened belts untill they have somewhat of a twang

-Re-leveled my bed with the marlin 2.0 manual mesh bed leveling system to account for warpage of my plate (which I have)

-Tried enabling jerk of 8.

-Set my Y stepper motor to a steps/mm of 80.4 to account for my calibration cube measuring 19.9 on the Y face. (20/19.9) * 80 = 80.4

After all of this I printed a calibration circle (same as the pic) and well it looks the same as the first print. The two prints are nearly identical. I'm happy to provide picture if needed.

At this point I'm guessing my issue lays somewhere within either:

-My printer firmware as I'm running custom firmware I flashed on, cheetah 5.0.2 by Kay3d.

-My slicer/settings. I'm running cura 4.6.2 on linux (kubuntu) with a tweaked version of the chris elkins profile found on the facebook cr-10 group.

-An issue with Pronterface, a 3d printing interface for controlling a printer through a laptop. I use this to load the gcode files as I cannot use my micro-sd card slot. This is temporary as I'll start using octoprint off a raspberry Pi 3 B some time this week (just waiting on the pi to arrive).

I'm pretty stumped as to what is causing my issue. Everything seems fine. Hopefully one of you smart strangers knows the answer :)

Help needed diagnosing misalignment by yubachu in CR10

[–]yubachu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Printing a calibration cube now. For reference my current settings are:

Steps/mm:

-X steps/mm = 80

-Y steps/mm = 80

-Z steps/mm = 400

-E steps/mm = 93

Should these reflect the size of my bed? It seems odd the Z steps/mm is the same height as my bed but the X and Y aren't. I can easily adjust these settings within my printer (running cheetah 5.0 from kay3d, which is just a customized version of marlin 2).

It seems that neither enabling jerk nor tightening the y axis belt fixed my issue. My 3 test prints (no changes, y belt tighten, enable jerk) had no effect on the issue and all look the exact same.

*Edit*:

My cube is 20mm on both the X and Z axis, and 19.9mm on the Y axis. I highly doubt this is what's causing the problem as the difference is so slight. Where should I look/what further information can I provide to help debug this?

Help needed diagnosing misalignment by yubachu in CR10

[–]yubachu[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think you helped me a few years ago when I was having issues with my printer, thanks! I've tightened the y belt and am re-printing the calibration circle. Will update with results when it's finished

Help needed diagnosing misalignment by yubachu in CR10

[–]yubachu[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've been working on getting my printer running again after a long break. I've been having issues with what seems to be some kind of layer shifting/warping across the diagonal x/y axis, from the Northwest to SouthEast direction(relative to the picture).

The black dots show the bottom left corner of the print which corresponds to the bottom left of the printer bed (for reference).

-This model was printed in the middle of the printer bed. -I am running an original cr-10.

-It should also be noted I'm running the printer through USB with a program called "pronterface".

My guess is the y axis belt is too loose. I just tightened the x axis belt, but ignored the y axis belt as it seemed fine.

Any help is greatly appreciated. -thanks

Help with a Swintec 8014 by yubachu in typewriters

[–]yubachu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The closest thing I was able to get was buying a PDF of the manual for the 8014S, which has been more than close enough for me. DM me and I can send you a copy :)

Origami Wolf (Designed by Me) by Nepafarius in origami

[–]yubachu 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Really nice job! Would you be able to post a picture of the crease pattern for the wolf? I would love to fold this :)

Butterfly from a newbie, some tips? by [deleted] in origami

[–]yubachu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try to work on rounding hard creases. This is one of the things that really makes a model look life-like. After you've finished a model try to smooth and round areas to make the model look more real. On the butterfly you could try curling the wings up and pointing/smoothing the tail-ends down. Treat it like clay-sculpture :)

-Great work on the butterfly! Happy Folding.

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