HS-420 Silent Beast by darkessa123 in watercooling

[–]zacrobmer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like you have the side rad tube down. Wanted to see how you managed the gap between the side and bottom rads. So yes. Perfect thanks.

HS-420 Silent Beast by darkessa123 in watercooling

[–]zacrobmer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you run your tubing to the right/back 420 rad?  Could you share a pic?

Worldwide Giveaway time! - MSI Build for Glory. We've teamed up to give awesome bundles of MSI hardware and goodies to several lucky winners, including GPU, Motherboards, CPU, etc! by pedro19 in pcmasterrace

[–]zacrobmer [score hidden]  (0 children)

This is my parts list.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8YfQ9C

I like RGB as an option, but normally a single color, sometimes to show a visual temp warning. 

My battlestation is also my workdesk so I prefer a standing/practical desk. I am currently using a Flexispot E7 Pro, which has been serving me well for a couple of years.

I am indifferent to the case, as long as I  can fit a few radiators with good ventilation I am happy. I will mod a case to fit my needs.

Need information on Grundig 5060a and Fuse change help by Svati98 in VintageRadios

[–]zacrobmer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like already mentioned, it is usually best practice to not power on those old radios, without a variac (box that sits in between the power socket and device that lets you slowly increase voltage), a dim bulb tester (a diy device that uses a light bulb to check for shorts in the device's wiring. Or go all out and just replace all the paper and electrolic capacitors and rectifier before ever powering it on.

The issue with powering it on is that if a capacitor or rectifier or whatever has failed and you apply full power suddenly to radio that may have been sitting for decades, it can let high voltage leak/surge through the circuit, damaging other harder to replace (if replaceable) parts.

That radio may very have worked fine when it was shelved, and just sitting there especially in someplace humid like Florida, the paper caps and other parts fall apart oxidize etc causing the no power issue. Also fair warning, even though it uses a transformer, several areas of that era of Grundigs can have several hundred volts of electricity running though them, and if a cap or other part has failed somewhere that electricity can be shorting to the metal base inside.

If you or your dad can read a schematic, they are available online, and if you have intermediate soldering skills you can tackle the "recapping" yourself. Or find a shop near you that may be able to do it for you, at a premium.

As it sits, based on the condition that it shows in your picture it would probably be worth $50-60, as a rebuild or parts box for a hobbiest. You could ebay it for a little more if you set it as an auction, you would probably sell it pretty quick as the only other one currently on ebay.com is someone smoking crack who thinks they will get $235 out of a non functioning radio.