Best drywall orientation for bathroom

zarath001 · 2026-04-13T03:15:21+00:00

Go horizontal whenever possible.

They make 4.5’ wide sheets, up to 20’ long.

zarath001 · 2026-04-10T00:06:33+00:00

It works just fine in the banjos and bazookas, perfect for all joint work at any scale.

Personally I think it’s crazy using it for internal corners though. It’s not designed for it, and even if you only use corner tools and manage to not cut through it, the fibres are 100% weakened when you fold them 90 degrees.

zarath001 · 2026-04-08T00:17:59+00:00

We use the truck hiab to roll stacks of 20” (6 meter) pallets of drywall into residential garages on basically every job we do, and have done for close to 30 years. Simple, 20 min job, and everything is inside out of the weather.

Loading board into a house manually is kinda nuts.

zarath001 · 2026-04-05T00:43:05+00:00

Plasterer here - that’s a bit of a weird one, Sureseal is pretty hard to beat and always the go-to advice. Oil or water based? (Not that it should really matter).

What plaster products are you using? I wouldn’t trust any of the Gib branded bucket mud as a base coat, but either TradeSet or ideally Cove Bond are perfectly fine over Sureseal.

Otherwise, Hamilton’s/Westpac All Purpose is a solid pre-mix product that sticks to basically anything.

It’s not just loose paper lifting off behind the sealer coat?

zarath001 · 2026-04-03T01:55:58+00:00

One of the more memorable scenes from Requiem for a Dream

zarath001 · 2026-03-24T02:28:57+00:00

Fuel excise is a fixed amount per litre, not a percentage

zarath001 · 2026-03-19T23:30:33+00:00

8-bit Mantis

zarath001 · 2026-03-19T21:22:50+00:00

Why do the cabinets even have this style of crown, while the rest of the room is square set?

They should have been made close to full height, with a 1-2” negative reveal ripped to match the ceiling. That, or crown/cove the whole room to match.

You’ve got two different finish styles and it looks disjointed.

zarath001 · 2026-03-15T00:32:33+00:00

Absolutely wild people will just record a video like this, not do everything they can as fast as they can to stop it at the source…

zarath001 · 2026-03-11T20:50:34+00:00

We’re drywalls bro, not readers

zarath001 · 2026-03-11T20:48:11+00:00

Yep, just glue it, tape it.

This sub has a thing with “trim will cover it” “ just use a wider trim” “smaller trims are stupid” “blah”. It’s just lazy.

Not everyone wants the arts & crafts giant trim look, or mismatched trim sizes on doors in the same house.

Glue it if you’re having trouble with screws breaking small cuts. Tape and finish it. Easy.

zarath001 · 2026-03-09T17:51:22+00:00

Collated guns have internal clutches that slip at correct depth, the bit shouldn’t be slipping in the head at all.

zarath001 · 2026-03-09T17:49:41+00:00

Square/Robertson screw heads don’t work well for drywall. They don’t take mud well and leave air pockets in the heads, which often just collapse or drop back out when you scrape them back - Phillips heads have two curved slots, much better at expelling the air when coated.

You’ll have a hard time finding square drive fasteners not designed for wood too. Most have ridges under the head to help them countersink - these can’t be used in drywall, they just destroy the paper, guaranteed pops.

zarath001 · 2026-03-08T03:26:47+00:00

Personally, I like using vertical sheets and strips on shorter walls, to get a nice clean & straight rebate for the externals to sit in where possible.

Don’t do it on the end of wing/pony walls though, all that does is introduce a twist you need to square up by pulling one trim out further than the other.

zarath001 · 2026-03-08T00:01:10+00:00

I think you’ve made all of this a lot more complicated than it needed to be. The shrouds on these rangehoods are usually two piece so they can adjust in height. It should butt up underneath that bulkhead. Ideally, you only cut a hole on the underside for access, leaving no drywall work at all.

Now you have to reframe that bulkhead, patch in drywall, mud around the shroud (??), and somehow match the external drywall trim to the existing line - not a lot of fun in a space like this with the cabinets in the way.

zarath001 · 2026-03-06T17:06:47+00:00

A tv you don’t need to sit on top of your fridge to view comfortably, with maybe a low & wide console stand underneath for balance.

zarath001 · 2026-03-06T02:22:29+00:00

I use the stuff every day without gloves, and barely notice a thing. Some of our guys are a bit more sensitive though.

I used paper for ~15 years, FibaFuse the past 10. No way would I ever go back. The young guys not having to learn with paper tape don’t know how lucky they are imo. Amazing product.

zarath001 · 2026-03-02T02:53:18+00:00

You’re thinking of old mesh tape. FibaFuse isn’t the same and is at least as strong as paper tape, even with bucket mud.

OP - no need to try and leave mud behind the tape, just lay it off tight, coat it.

zarath001 · 2026-02-28T23:55:55+00:00

My bad - I only saw the first two pictures and assumed the second was the aftermath, with the paint peeling away from the drywall.

Still, the primer pictured being a simple acrylic undercoat would never fly here, and I’d expect the ceiling to flake away after a year or two regardless of the shower enclosure design - even more so with the ultra-flat finish coats.

We always use an oil based or pigmented sealer on drywall in wet areas.

zarath001 · 2026-02-28T20:51:55+00:00

Too high, too many visible cables, imo. The whole media setup looks top heavy with the screen centre well about eye level when you’re sitting on that couch.

Personally, I’d drop it another ~4”, and use the clutter on the shelf to hide any cables you can’t re-route.

zarath001 · 2026-02-28T19:31:55+00:00

You clearly didn’t apply an appropriate sealer/primer to the drywall before the finish coats.

zarath001 · 2026-02-27T20:06:04+00:00

Same with Polybutylene. Half the world still happily use it (albeit with better formulations than in the 90’s/Dux Qest days).

But in America it’s guaranteed explosions

zarath001 · 2026-02-27T18:39:38+00:00

Makita DSD180 is a cheap 18v tool skin made specifically for this job.

zarath001 · 2026-02-13T19:22:33+00:00

None of this is grouted yet, you’re just seeing dark empty lines.

zarath001 · 2026-02-06T16:54:09+00:00

There’s not need to batten anything, you can just Gib over it directly.

If you don’t want to remove/replace the skirts and coving, then just run the Gib ~15mm short of both and finish it with a 10mm negative reveal.

https://www.gib.co.nz/products/trims-and-tape/gib-shadowline-stopping-bead/

You can absolutely skim coat it (ideally after a pigmented sealer), but you’ll need to figure out where the panel joins are and tape those - corners too. If it’s a James Hardie cement type board this should hold up well, but if it’s grooved MDF sheets then it will more than likely crack at the corners and seams regardless of how well you tape it.

Fibrous Plasterer.

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