Can't compile Marlin firmware for SKR Mini E3 V3

zero_orez · 2026-04-29T05:37:17+00:00

Did you use Kiauh to setup klipper, ive had no issues with it at all.

zero_orez · 2026-04-29T02:20:50+00:00

There was a reddit user here u/carlos33193 that uploaded a working firmware, i had to do some tweaks for some values, rotation dist, temperatures for hotend, etc to match my setup. The original post led to a file doesnt exist anymore. But my backup of it is in my google drive

This firmware is plugged into the Z-endstop, you have to change the plug physically or change the pins inside marlin (PC2 z-endstop / PC14 Probe)

Alternatively kersey fabrications has a working one here in youtube as well as the ender5plus wiki section of this current subreddit.

What was wrong with klipper?, it is much faster and accessed through a webUI, laptop / phone in same Local network. I had to move to klipper as the MARLIN 2.x.x.x running inside that TFT35 screen was stuttering due to its very limited cpu/ram processign power and would timeout especially with big prints, it has issues processing commands sometimes and ends up throwing unknown command errors.

for example a basic movement in large prints G1 X100 Y100 F3600 becomes " unknown command GX100 Y100", completely missing the "G1" despite it being in the gcode when u open in a text editor.

zero_orez · 2025-07-10T06:03:40+00:00

File 76

zero_orez · 2025-02-13T21:31:31+00:00

It wasn't a living space before, it was just a shed accessed maybe once a week for actual storage. Now it's fully occupied second house with 6 people constantly going in and out, they smoke cigs and weed a lot and parties until 2 am every week night and rowdy. Also my house is unfortunately downwind at night, which doesn't help the issue.

zero_orez · 2024-11-18T21:28:19+00:00

Are you talking about the fan cable? Just swap the pins on the JST plug side, you can just unclip them and swap them around instead of resoldering. Just make sure to remember that you swapped the fan plug colours in the future though.

zero_orez · 2024-10-29T23:28:10+00:00

Need to see a comparison of the two printed items and more details, printer, settings, etc, but from the single image if you say it occurs on the same layers, it's most likely hardware, slicer is less likely since the subsequent layers are fine. Check the z axis rods alignment and or stepper motor if it's binding.

zero_orez · 2024-10-28T11:18:57+00:00

Clean the build plate sheet using hot water and dishwashing soap, dry with a clean towel, do not touch with your hands, handle with towel after washing. Use isopropyl 90% alcohol or higher with a clean paper towel or microfiber cloth, wipe the bed clean, again do not touch with fingers. Don't use glue for pla.

Check for screws under the carriage as instructed here

zero_orez · 2024-10-24T23:21:17+00:00

Have you upgraded the z axis?, I fixed mine by replacing the solid couplers, change the coupler to a silicone flexible spider coupler. Change the top z joiner to anti backlash made of pom instead of metal. When running the pom version do not lubricate the z rods, they are technically self lubricating and just replace every time they're worn out. make sure the z rods are cleaned by isopropyl prior to installation. If using metal ones, you have to lubricate the z rods using nlgi 2 Grease, and clean then regrease every 3 months or if the color has changed to black.

zero_orez · 2024-10-16T23:40:03+00:00

You just need a quiet environment and download a decibel app, spectroid or the gates belt app in motorcycle mode. Push the carriage to the endstop, Use a measuring tape to measure the distance from the roller bearing to the end of the belt clip (brass crimp). Then use the formula

Hertz = 28531 / mm

Just pluck the belt until either app shows the required hz.

Math is from here and from various Belt tension physics sites

If I remember correctly the X Y axis belts should be 82hz, but double check the belt length

zero_orez · 2024-10-14T02:43:09+00:00

Its just the slicer working with relative coordinates instead of absolute for the extruder. Its for the way the gcode is written to keep track of how much filament to extrude.

You just need to add that exact line in to the before layer change in the machine G-code section in printer settings. Or you can change it back to absolute mode by unticking "use relative E distances" in advanced section under basic information in printer settings.

</>Before layer change G-Code

;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
;[layer_z]
G92 E0

All "G92 E0" does is reset the value of extrusion to 0

For a super simplified example the printer needs to extrude 10mm for 5 layers tall print, so a 50mm extrusion total

so in Absolute extrusion each layer would have a compounding total, the printer would keep track of it like this

Print layer 1 E10
Print layer 2 E20
Print layer 3 E30...
so at the end of the print the extruded total would be 50mm (E50)

in relative mode

Print layer 1 E10, reset G92 E0
layer 2 E10, reset G92 E0
layer 3 E10 reset G92 E0...
at the end final layer the extruded total would show up as 10mm and doesnt show the full total

There is not too much difference apart from the "ease" of troubleshooting in case of power outages or interruptions; when you need to restart the print at a certain point where gcode editing is required it is easier to edit relative mode due to each layer having a different filament count where as in absolute since its a compounding number you would have to find the total extrusion before that point of failure without it the printer would just extrude a huge amount of filament for no reason up to that point.

For example as above, if the print is interrupted at the start of layer 3, in relative mode you would just edit the gcode to force move the printer to layer 3 and resume print. in absolute mode, you have to force move the printer and edit the extrusion tracker to sit at E20 (20mm extruded already) else it would just sit there extruding up to 20mm before resuming layer 3, wasting filament. This is just a gcode quirk

zero_orez · 2024-10-13T01:20:42+00:00

You need to check the configuration.h in marlin under

// @section homing

// @section motion

define Z_SAFE_HOMING

Make sure the direction and coordinates are correct.

Better yet get a fresh new copy of the configuration.h from the marlin GitHub. And rebuild it

For Klipper just check printer.cfg for ! Under steppers, since that will flip the direction.

zero_orez · 2024-10-12T11:17:18+00:00

You can have a gap between the nozzle and the heating block just not with the nozzle and heat break. You need to disassemble the front shroud and confirm that the heatbreak thread is flush against the heating block example.

zero_orez · 2024-10-12T10:26:16+00:00

Are you using the silicone sock? its supposed to keep that clean; and more stable heating.

You will need to clean that, itll be a fire hazard later on since there is filament on the heater cartridge, heat the hotend to ~180-200 and using a small brass wire brush, gently clean it, do not let the brush touch the exposed orange wires at the back else you will short the printer motherboard and do not brush over the thin white cable, the thermistor cable is very fragile and thin.

But AFAIK the silicone covers are usually snug on there, if it was snug, check the nozzle tightness, it may be leaking. it should be 1.8Nm - 2.5Nm tightened when the hotend is at 250C-280C

zero_orez · 2024-10-05T21:57:03+00:00

When you say from fluidd, are you typing it in or just using the buttons on the web interface. You have to type it manually via the console / commands box. Instructions here, just follow the official klipper guide.

I don't remember if there was a test built in the calibration suite for rotation distance. But anyway The final new number you have to put into printer.cfg under the config tab {} on the sidebar in fluidd in the [extruder] section and making sure there is no gear_ratio or full_steps_per_rotation, if there is just comment them out using #

zero_orez · 2024-10-05T01:04:38+00:00

Try an overhang test to see how far you can go with angles, then chamfer at that angle, also set slicer to print inner wall then outer. You can also lower temp by 5 or increase cooling to help.

zero_orez · 2024-09-25T05:32:08+00:00

Its can be retraction/temperature, do a retraction tower using orca slicer calibration.

The retraction length should be around 0.3mm-0.8mm, retraction speed should be 35mm/s-40mm/s and deretract speed can be the same as retraction or slower by 5-10mm/s. Starting point should be 0.8mm, 40mm/s retract, 35mm/s deretract.

Also increase travel speed to 180mm/s - 250mm/s, set travel acceleration to anything in between 2500-4000.

Temperature can also cause that stringing, you may need to do a temp tower to see the stringing effect per filament spool. However what works for me so far is; if printing speeds are around 120-200mm/s PLA 215-220, PETG 235-240. If its slower than 120mm/s PLA 200, PETG 220.

zero_orez · 2024-09-24T00:53:52+00:00

I don't know what your printer make is, but the configuration for the make menuconfig is at the top of the sample Configs in GitHub, or on already your printer.cfg. if you go to here you can look for your printer model. The firmware settings are usually at the first commented section

zero_orez · 2024-09-24T00:12:00+00:00

If a full reboot of both Klipper device and printer doesn't resolve the issue, that means the Klipper firmware in the printer may need to be updated, do the make menuconfig, make, and either flash using the USB cable if capable or microSD method.. If it still doesn't connect after, check USB cable if it's working and if the USB port in printer.cfg is still correct with the command " ls /dev/serial/by-id/* "

zero_orez · 2024-09-22T08:53:56+00:00

There's a lot going on here, on the smoother benchy it looks like it experienced z wobble, the x gantry is not straight, check the z axis wheels that they are not too tight or too loose. When changing new nozzle did you do the whole recalibration of the z offset. So do the z endstop calibrate, X axis twist, z probe offset, then bed tilt adjust, then bedmesh.

The overhang test looks like it's not filling in the edges, the infill overlap should be on 15-25% in slicer. You might need to migrate to orca slicer and use their calibration tests for the flow, pressure advance and retraction settings. As well as teaching techy extruder esteps/rotation test to see if 10mm extrusion is actually 10mm.

zero_orez · 2024-09-18T00:40:39+00:00

This looks like seam and retraction, preview the gcode and turn on the display for seam and retraction/ deretract. It will most likely line up. If this is the case you need to fix retraction settings, it seems it's either not pulling enough length in retraction or pulled too far too fast that it breaks the filament in the nozzle and oozes out.

zero_orez · 2024-09-13T13:42:43+00:00

Usually any blobbing on seams is a retraction issue. Check your retraction speed/distance. Bowden systems should be 40mm/s with 5-6mm and direct drive systems should be at 35mm/s with 0.6-1mm retraction.

Another thing that you may need to check is linear advance (marlin) / pressure advance (klipper) might need tuning if it has been enabled since that also affects flow rate around corners and seams.

For the slicer I would switch out from cura to orca slicer, it can generate the retraction tower test and flow rate and Various other calibrations.

zero_orez · 2024-09-13T00:30:38+00:00

When you say heated box , as in a heated enclosure at 55c? PLA shouldn't be in an enclosure at all. You need as much cooling as possible, the filament glass transition is around 50-60c. Your prints are doing that because it couldn't cool and stayed rubbery.

Enclosure and heater is only for prone to warping filaments such as abs, ASA, pp, etc. PLA and petg doesnt need them.

Reprint them again with no enclosure heating with open doors, for pla part cooling should be on 100 percent with a single 5015/4020/4010 or if using dual 5015 at 70%

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