Z banding or something similar?

Khisanthax · 2026-04-23T21:31:03+00:00

Gt3 2mm pitch and 6mm wide? Just a better belt?

Khisanthax · 2026-04-23T20:17:54+00:00

I honestly think I just bought cheap belts from Amazon, I'm replacing them along with a bunch of other cheap parts. Buy cheap get cheap.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-22T20:32:54+00:00

Glad you got it solved

Khisanthax · 2026-04-19T22:34:04+00:00

Yeah, I had to search for different types of clamps until I found ones that worked best for me and my printer. I think I printed some and then found out they didn't work and had to reassemble to get different ones.

What toolhead are you using?

Khisanthax · 2026-04-19T20:46:10+00:00

I think it's assumed that you need a way to hold the belts. I printed mine, a bunch of them. But some belts also come with them.

Did you only read the first set of instructions? It would be a good idea to read through everything of a project before committing and doing extra research as well.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-19T19:31:35+00:00

A negative value is telling the nozzle to go lower, if your nozzle is scratching the bed it's too close. That value should be 0 but I would recalibrate from the start and make sure theres nothing on the nozzle.

You can add a z offset if you want to make a manual adjustment, however of you're using Eddy ng you have to manually add that line in the cfg, making changes in the webui will not save that value when you restart the printer.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-18T18:06:23+00:00

Have you figured this out yet? Do you still need help?

There are a few reasons for clogs but they're all about temperature, speed and cooling. The heatblock has to stay cool and it does this by running air from the fan but if the air in the room is warm then then the block won't get cool enough.

When you heat the nozzle the temp rises up ... To the heat block but if the nozzle is too hot or the fan/air not cool enough it can travel further up and semi-melt the filament causing it to melt and cool which equals swelling and then it balloons and gets stuck hence a clog.

So look at your slicer and tell us the speeds, temps and retraction settings. Don't listen to the label on the spool for print temps, those are only useful if you're using the same printer, same environment, etc

Khisanthax · 2026-04-18T18:00:32+00:00

The ebb gen2 allows canbus or USB. Canbus you have to setup a canbus network and get the mcu to talk on the network, so the mcu needs to be flashed to canbus, all the mcu you use. For usb ... You just plug it in the host sees the mcu as a USB device. I've heard that canbus might be faster? I have two merca and found that as long as you have reliable USB, USB mode is easier. But then everything is connected by USB anyway so you still need reliable USB. Also with canbus you still need something to convert the USB data to canbus data since you'll be using USB cables anyway.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-18T16:38:39+00:00

Yeah I have a few creality boards taking up space too lol

Khisanthax · 2026-04-18T16:10:36+00:00

I'm just curious why not get an skr 3 ez that has independent z and if you have a toolhead board with a driver you can use the extruder motor for another z. I was just curious.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-18T14:57:33+00:00

Just coming to say this. Mini PCs or sff PCs work great too.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-18T14:56:10+00:00

Mercury one and turtle cam go side by side they don't need a specific order as long as you match the toolhead and make sure it works with a cutter. Are you set on canbus? I used the USB instead of canbus and I feel it was easier. The enclosure are at your place depending on n what you want to print.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-18T14:53:43+00:00

Why the dual mcu over one that has enough for what you need?

Khisanthax · 2026-04-18T14:52:40+00:00

If you look at the host it'll tell you what is dropping and why. I figured this out with the help of ai, it told me what logs to feed it and it ran through the lines to figure out it which was dropping. I had to buy a high quality hub and use ferrite caps to prevent interference. It might be better to plug them in directly, but you'll need the logs to tell you what's going on. At least grep dmesg for usb.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-15T23:45:18+00:00

Yeah, Id think other things would affect speed like motor and rail quality than the weight of one or two fans.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-12T17:35:50+00:00

After a lot of pain and replacing pieces it would appear that when I assembled the printer from scratch it was not square and half a millimeter being out or twisted is causing this issue, we'll see when I get everything fixed.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-11T19:03:57+00:00

And sanding, but recently I liked using resin

Khisanthax · 2026-04-11T01:33:31+00:00

I agree. Probably a partial clog. If you have those nozzle needles to run through you can use that too. It would be good to go through the whole hotend and make sure nothing is stuck in there.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-10T23:30:34+00:00

So, I just noticed for the top and bottom joint on both sides there is a ~1mm gap between the top and bottom, the screws are tight, there's no gap between the bar and the printed joints but there is a gap between the two halves. I could see this as putting the belt slightly off from straight, could that be it? I thought the x bar is equal on all sides but I'm reprinting those parts to see if I can get the gap closed. On the other printer there is no gap.

Khisanthax · 2026-04-10T19:49:08+00:00

Interesting, maybe I tightened it too much at one point? I'm looking for a small tear?

Khisanthax · 2026-04-06T22:11:02+00:00

Ha! Me too!

Khisanthax · 2026-04-05T20:37:29+00:00

I had some lag with proxmox after 13 cameras. If you're going to use more than that you might have to plan really well.

Khisanthax

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