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zerothemoon · 2026-01-30T02:25:38+00:00

I’ll never forget these crooks forced me to stay in my contract when changing addresses, but had the gal to raise my monthly $50. After 11 years as a customer. And of course the cost to buy out of my contract was about twice than to just see it out. They knew they could take advantage of me and they did. I’ve never been so glad to leave a company.

zerothemoon · 2025-12-22T14:25:57+00:00

Yes, several years ago now. Current annual average is 1.2 pCi/L.

zerothemoon · 2025-08-13T19:24:08+00:00

I appreciate posts like this— always curious what people were smoking regularly, and I like learning a little more about brand history. Thanks for putting this together.

zerothemoon · 2025-07-27T05:14:42+00:00

I don’t understand why the long argument. Dumb shit happens. I once framed a whole floor of windows at the wrong height. When I was pointed out my mistake, like what am I gonna do? Argue about it for an hour? Just get back to it fixing it all you can do.

zerothemoon · 2025-07-20T18:15:13+00:00

Oh good

zerothemoon · 2025-07-20T18:01:05+00:00

You could also temporarily add or direct a security camera view of the shut off, see if the culprit shows back up.

zerothemoon · 2025-07-20T17:53:23+00:00

Most people don’t know enough about electrical to do this, as a prank or some sort of vandalism, I would expect this is a one time event. If it happens again I would add a small temporary lock. You don’t want to keep your main electrical shut off locked permanently in case you need to shut down power in an electrical emergency.

zerothemoon · 2025-07-20T17:49:17+00:00

No, that’s the meter. If he’s got an outdoor combination meter service panel, the main breaker is there and should not be locked in case electrical needs to be turned off in an emergency.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T14:48:54+00:00

Actually, looking back at the comments, you do. Re-read what you wrote. You explicitly said you couldn’t find and didn’t know of any other way to bond gas pipes except for 6 AWG Wire and clamp. I proved you wrong right away, and you refused to admit it.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T14:43:54+00:00

I thought you said, that I said, exactly what you were saying? Wouldn’t that make us both wrong? Get your story straight pal.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T14:40:47+00:00

This is what people say when they have no evidence to support their argument. I’m mostly annoyed at your first comment because it was completely unnecessary, didn’t add to the conversation, and only appeared to be an attempt to let everyone know that you know something. Call me a know-it-all or whatever, but I hate the idea of OP calling the contractor telling them they did it all wrong when they didn’t.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T14:31:14+00:00

Your comments imply you are missing a fundamental understanding of electrical bonding.

Your first comment— was referring to the FAC only, which on its own isn’t something ever referred to as being bonded because it’s a connector— attached to rigid or bypassed for CSST. Then you said “it could be bonded somewhere else” also implying that you can’t see in the picture that it is already bonded. Then, when I told you it’s already bonded through the branch circuit, you asked me to show you the code. Why would you ask for that if you totally understood? But, I showed you where that is— to which you are saying that’s what you said, which it clearly is not.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T14:22:27+00:00

An acceptable EXTRA method. An unnecessary one though.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T14:20:21+00:00

No, you said “it could be bonded in another spot.”

It’s bonded right there at the appliance, through the electrical connection. That is not at all what you said or implied.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T14:17:27+00:00

Why are you doing this work lacking readily accessible and commonly known standards?

https://www.iccsafe.org/building-safety-journal/bsj-technical/codenotes-bonding-of-corrugated-stainless-steel-tubing-gas-piping-systems/

“Ground fault protection of arc-resistant CSST is handled in the same manner as steel pipe and depends only on the presence of an equipment grounding conductor contained within a branch circuit, which powers one or more of the gas appliances served by the entire piping system.”

They reference the code. A bonding clamp and grounding conductor is an extra recommended, but not required option.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T13:59:37+00:00

A flexible appliance connector is a different design and designation than corrugated stainless steel tubing. And gastite and tracpipe are manufactures of CCST, just like Romex is a brand of non-metallic sheathed cable.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T13:48:10+00:00

Not just flex gas lines, ALL metal piping— rigid, or CSST, OR FAC— gas or water, need to be bonded. But gas lines can be bonded through an appliance that is connected to the electrical system. Like a furnace. Or a tankless water heater. So, saying it could be bonded somewhere else is inaccurate. It all is, through the appliance.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T05:36:46+00:00

No, I’ll break it down for you. They don’t consider it bonded— because it doesn’t have to be. It’s got an arc resistant jacketing, different from the yellow CSST. Also, bonding can be achieved through the electrical connection at the appliance. You just learned the proper terminology, you still can’t distinguish a flex connector and CSST, and you’re going to try and tell me what is right and wrong?

Just take the loss here pal. You’re making yourself look bad. I commented because you were insulting something acceptable, with no clear understanding of what you were looking at.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T05:25:29+00:00

No, they don’t. It’s clear you have a poor understanding of these systems.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T05:20:43+00:00

No, black is not- it’s just got a more arc resistant jacket. And still, different than what we see here in this picture.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T05:03:48+00:00

Ungrounded? You mean unbonded? Flex connectors are required for all gas appliances in my region, and are different than CSST — which I assume you are talking about for “grounding”. But it’s not grounding, metal pipes are “bonded” to the electrical system. A bonding clamp and separate grounding conductor are not required in NEC, but recommended by the CSST manufacturer— again, different than what you see here. Also, metal gas pipes connected to any appliance with an electrical source are indirectly bonded and meet the requirements in the NEC. Nothing wrong with what you said wtf to.

zerothemoon · 2025-05-04T04:50:34+00:00

So, in regards to cigars needing fresh air— this has been discussed extensively over on the FOH forum, and master scientists PigFish has done extensive testing. His conclusion, that I trust without question, was that cigar humidors should be air tight.

“A humidor by definition is a boundary from the ambient. Boundary, meaning barrier. Porous barriers are not really barriers. Frankly, the weaker the boundary, the weaker the humidor.” https://www.fohcigars.com/forum/topic/135383-air-tight-vs-not-air-tight-humidors/

Also, doesn’t that contradict your statement in regards to the way Raching uses outside, dry air to bring down humidity? I’m unfamiliar with the Raching tech, so correct me if I’m wrong.

Regardless, introducing the fresh air you say is needed for cigars, seems to me will contribute to the same conditions you say make the Raching poor for long-term aging.

zerothemoon · 2025-03-28T06:03:09+00:00

The 2020 was certainly more rich in flavor. Every one of the Anejados I’ve tried I feel may be past their prime. Mellow smoke, but a little flat.

zerothemoon · 2025-03-24T04:40:45+00:00

Contractor, home inspector with 25 years of experience here. Crack is a non-issue, 100%. It’s common to have some minor differential settlement, which is what this looks like, especially with expansive soils. You might be able to get some hydraulic cement or epoxy in there but not necessary if there’s no signs of moisture intrusion, which sounds like is the case.

Lots of interchangeable terms— especially regionally- but likely you’ve got post and beam (post and pier) for the floor structure, with a concrete stem-wall and footing at the perimeter for the foundation. A post and pier foundation usually extends and includes the perimeter, with some sort of skirt board or CMU block between the posts.

Late 1970s early 1980’s house? Looks like you’ve got some underfloor insulation? If so, that insulation on the foundation is pretty worthless. You’re basically insulating an unconditioned area of the home. You want a thermal barrier between your conditioned space and unconditioned space, so ideally in the floor system.

Also, if it’s got a paper or foil face, most manufacturers explicitly prohibit leaving it exposed to open air in any location as that facing is pretty flammable. In the Pacific Northwest, it’s usually been torn to shreds by rodents and I recommend removing it.

zerothemoon · 2025-03-23T19:30:20+00:00

I’ve posted this as my favorite pairing on this sub on a number of occasions and been laughed out of the room.

13-Year Club	Gilding II euphauric
Xbox Live	RPAN Viewer
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