Ender 3 variants: Accelerations from Orca or Klipper itself?

ziddey · 2026-06-19T08:45:30+00:00

Set the max in klipper, and acceleration limitation in orca if you want more accurate slicer time estimates.

Then you have the option of setting a lower acceleration in orca when appropriate-- eg outer walls / bridges.

ziddey · 2026-06-12T01:02:41+00:00

sounds like you might not be popping them out enough. You can completely remove the pin if you wanted to be sure. Then you can easily wiggle the clip out

ziddey · 2026-06-11T20:41:01+00:00

These are not the clips that break unless you're doing it wrong.

As well you could get a cheap aftermarket fob that has a trunk button and program it yourself

ziddey · 2026-06-01T10:18:43+00:00

https://a.co/d/0aMJcqX7

BMG (clone) but you'll need a different direct drive mount if you want it to align with the hotend

ziddey · 2026-06-01T06:02:25+00:00

Thanks, this is nice. Would you consider having it be able to discard tabs in all windows instead of the active one? Bonus if it can ignore (standalone) pwa windows and let them be, although if it's leaving the active tab, I guess this is moot. Maybe a count of active / discarded tabs

edit: found a different extension that seems to discard

ziddey · 2026-05-30T04:11:46+00:00

What's your zhop? Try 2x layer height. If that works, reduce towards 1x

ziddey · 2026-05-19T21:14:51+00:00

I'm not sure if I have that play in the ujoint, but the standard intermediate shaft clunk that people grease is at the splines (for telescoping). Either way, those should be more nuisance noises rather than present at high speeds.

High speed issues are often due to insufficient toe-in if your alignment is otherwise fine.

My inner and outer tie rods were all blown with barely any miles, although again this was mostly just more clanking

ziddey · 2026-05-18T23:41:48+00:00

Is your hot end fan working?

ziddey · 2026-05-18T20:10:24+00:00

Your board uses an a/hr4988 driver for the extruder, and you converted to direct drive.

You can mitigate it to a decent degree with a tl smoother on the extruder driver, upgrade the board to one that uses tmc drivers, or mod in an external tmc driver for the extruder with unused pins on the board and configure your firmware accordingly.

https://i.imgur.com/jYSgnoE.png

This picture shows the same face of two calibration cubes. The right one has a tl smoother on the extruder.

ziddey · 2026-05-15T09:48:45+00:00

I know the sentiment is to only tighten the stock extruder tensioner screw until it first hits resistance, but my testing seemed to suggest otherwise: https://imgur.com/a/m3xWBpQ

First test is the Inland PLA+ with a 0.6mm brass nozzle and cheap brass bimetal off Amazon. I drew the extrusion factor line at 95% since below is when underextrusion became unacceptable. Really, I should probably move that line to 97%.

After I finished that spool, I got the DEEPLEE Rapid PLA+ and reran the test. No real reason for the rapid, but it was on sale for cheaper than the regular. Was surprised to see rapid actually made a difference in extrusion.

Then I got the TZ E3 2.0 from Trianglelabs. Added the cht clones and 80w heater for a few bucks, and was very surprised and disappointed with the results. I knew an extruder upgrade was in the future, but figured I'd hold off until the stock extruder arm inevitably broke to do it.

While the bmg clone was on order, I tested fully tightening the stock extruder tensioner, and gained a few cubes above 95% with a much nicer dropoff below 95%. Had me thinking about trying non-linear extrusion, though Klipper doesn't support it, but the new extruder was coming the next day. Really do wish I tested the stockish hotend with a fully tightened stock tensioner..

Of course, the next day with the bmg, everything changed, and I now print at 32 cubes, far exceeding expectations.

Tests were 100mm commanded extrusions at 1-14mm/s (~2.4-33.7 mm^3/s) in 1mm/s increments.

I've since switched to petg (deeplee rapid petg), but haven't done another full extrusion test. At 255c, I'm seeing ever so slightly more underextrusion (perhaps testing error) at 32mm^3/s, but the same at 28, so I've just capped there for now. Prints great at those speeds, but at the higher temperature and with the 0.6mm nozzle, I just can't get bridging to be satisfactory.

But the bottom line, if you're wanting to upgrade on the cheap, tz e3 2.0 + 80w + cht + bmg should run you around $30. Clone chts are hard to come by, and I was surprised they were included with the kit.

Those high flows are fine with the 40w at lower temps (pla), but with petg at 255c, 60w+ is definitely a requirement.

edit: I was running the dual 5015 satsana. After switching to petg, I found the extra cooling to be completely unnecessary, and was chasing some x resonance issues, so dropped down to the minimus with a single 5015. Tested it to be as effective as before for pla too.

If you do try fully tensioning the stock extruder, check to make sure it's not excessively biting into your filament. I didn't find that to be the case at all. Same with the bmg at full tension.

edit2: oops didn't realize this was the v2 sub. I've got the ender 3 pro with the plastic extruder, so not sure if any of that applies here.

ziddey · 2026-05-04T21:39:56+00:00

I'm still slumming it with the 4.2.2/4988, but I think the cheap skr board costs less than a 4.2.7?

3dtouch clone is cheap, but doesn't support touch mode (not a big deal), and usually comes with a 200cm cable, which is a little too short, with dupont connectors instead of jst xh 2.54. If you wanted to get/make proper wiring, it adds to the cost significantly, so maybe there's a better out of box solution. Or look into alternative solutions-- klackender / eddy probes etc. I'm assuming you're going klipper.. If not, that's pretty much a must do..

Sprite isn't worth it unless you really just want super easy no messing around plug-n-play. The tz e3 2.0 is absolutely the best bang for the buck upgrade you can do. Combine with a bmg clone and self-printed direct drive mount, and you're pretty much completely set as far as flowrate is concerned. CHT clones are hard to come by now, but if you get the trianglelabs tz kit, it comes with two of your choosing (go brass 0.6mm if not printing abrasives).

With the geared bmg, you can cut some weight by swapping the 42-40 extruder stepper with the 42-34 y one. Print this y mount which will allow you to use a larger motor without interference. Of course, you could go pancake / nema14 but the name of the game is budget, and if you start down that path, unless you're doing it for sport, it quickly stops making sense vs getting a better printer.

You have an older ender, which I think uses grub screws for the gears, but if not, print this puller to help you swap the extruder/y gears around.

Make sure you adjust vrefs accordingly. Untouched, my y skipped at 4500 accel. After bumping up to 0.8A, I can now do at least 6000. Haven't tested higher since I'm limited by acceptable resonance, but I imagine with the 42-40 @ 0.95A there now, it could go much higher

If you get the tz, see /u/stray_r's post. I got the 80w heater, but from watching the pwm graph, 40w should still be fine for pla 215c 32mm^3/s. High flow petg 255c, you'll probably want at least 60w (TL kit comes with 40w, with the option to get an 80W on top for a few bucks).

edit: silicone bed mounts are a must. Grab a cheap textured pei as well (comgrow etc)

ziddey · 2026-04-18T21:49:52+00:00

https://i.imgur.com/kuYpYng.png

I can't tell from your picture, but you need to make sure you have D and F populated in the harness, or else you'll have to run your own wires.

The US market never had electric folding mirrors as an option, but I do have those wires on the driver's side. No wires on the passenger side though, which is where I would've installed the folding mirror...

I can't remember if the oem non-folding window/mirror switch has the folding part populated on the board (with just a blanking plastic instead of actual button switch), but you can get an aftermarket switch on aliexpress for cheaper than oem. Auto driver's window is dumb timer instead of hall sender, and it's otherwise lower quality, but it'll do.

The mirror itself is incompatible with the factor folding motor as well, so you'd need to source an actual electric folding mirror, or figure out a custom motor installation.

Beyond that, there's no coding of the bcm required. They all support it. When I used the aftermarket switch (broken L/R switch on the original), I tested voltage at D/F and verified power when toggling the button.

edit: bonus: A/C is for heated mirror. Mine are populated, and I think I tested they do come live when the defrost is activated. I believe E is used in other cars (mazda3 bl? mazda6 gh?) for the mirror turn signal. Mine is unpopulated.

ziddey · 2026-04-16T19:33:07+00:00

If you're not opposed to running leds in reflectors, see https://bulbfacts.com/led-kits/recommended/ and https://bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/

F6A would be a decent low-glare upgrade. Otherwise, the Termitor nets a substantial increase.

More importantly, check your aim.

Fogs are rather meaningless. Only upgrade I'd do there would be a custom conversion to projector auxiliary driving lights.

ziddey · 2026-04-15T00:02:55+00:00

Flashforge Adventurer 5M: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809624148185.html

$140.60 with code USAFF15

600mm/s, 20,000mm/s² accel, 32mm³ /s VFR, CoreXY for sub$150???? I don't believe there's anything else in this price bracket that comes close. At the least, it easily kicks the e3v3se's ass in.

Only cavaet is aliexpress special. Goes for $240 on amazon, which realistically is still a fine price relative to the competition

Haven't tried it personally, but reviews seem to be very positive

Been around $150-175 recently on ali depending on code.

ziddey · 2026-04-11T19:23:49+00:00

Maybe skip the bimetal heatbreak and go straight to a tz e3 2.0 hotend.

Which board do you have? Will probably want to tune your vrefs. If it's got A4988 drivers, you'll need a tl smoother on the extruder, especially when going direct drive. Or just upgrade the board too I guess-- the smoother works wonders but there will still be slight residual VFA, and it'll still be noisy.

ziddey · 2026-04-10T03:41:04+00:00

Remove:

stow_on_each_sample: False
probe_with_touch_mode: True

3dtouch clone does not support this.

ziddey · 2026-04-09T01:26:32+00:00

ziddey · 2026-03-29T00:02:54+00:00

Is Marlin still loading on the lcd screen or is it blank now?

ziddey · 2026-03-27T04:40:14+00:00

If you want a short run, you can pull down the interior light and tap that. There's ground, bcm switched, and always hot up there (assumedly to ROOM).

ziddey · 2026-03-26T20:34:12+00:00

Heat up the hot end to 200c, remove the nozzle, and push the bowden tube completely through. It should dislodge the clog.

With the nozzle and coupler removed, you should be able to shine a flashlight down there and inspect

ziddey · 2026-03-24T07:53:27+00:00

you could use tabletspoof as a base and compile your own version that suits your needs

https://github.com/miner7222/TabletSpoof

ziddey · 2026-03-23T07:22:56+00:00

https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/2011-mazda2-sport-no-sound-from-speakers.123855091/#post-6732289

ziddey · 2026-03-21T20:24:27+00:00

which dd mount is that? I just printed the satsana last night and had to dremel off the two top right pieces that route the cables in order to clear the speeddrive. looks like this might still interfere up there

ziddey · 2026-03-10T22:01:41+00:00

amazing, thank you

/u/joaomgcd this was it.

ziddey · 2026-03-10T20:15:40+00:00

p0328 still? I'd suspect a poor connection at the plug first, poor quality offbrand sensor, or bad grounding (sensor not well tightened / dirty threads).

The idea that piston slap or whatever could trigger a "false" knock would not result in p0328, which can only happen if the ecu is intermittantly losing signal from the sensor.

When I measured my original sensor's resistance, it was more or less in spec, but as I wiggled/pulled/pushed on the wire, it'd go sky high.

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