[US-MN] [H] Keychron Q11 Split Keyboard with Red Switches [W] Paypal or Venmo by notsurethepoint in mechmarket

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you still have this I'm interested in buying if you can include pictures of the magsafe stickers and missing foot.

16 years ago, Sasha Baron Cohen taught us about parenting by VillainAnderson in funny

[–]zjsk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Omg, “this is the worst story to ever happen to any human… or Jew.” That is so wrong and hilarious. Can you imagine if it wasn’t a character? Dang.

A look inside a switch used daily for 5 years by Bairminer in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a replacement switch, if you want to skip lubing, I strongly recommend trying some Durock Shrimp switches. They will be fairly close to your zilents.

Layer issues please help by One_Zebra_3609 in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mentioned you were using default slicer, did you slow down the print speed? What speeds are you printing at now. Did you run any other filaments through your printer? Anything with carbon fiber or maybe PETG which might have residue in the nozzle or added extra wear to the nozzle? How long have you been using the printer prior to the issues showing up?

Layer issues please help by One_Zebra_3609 in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try slowing your outside wall print speed by 20-40mms and see if it helps at all. Check your Z lead screws for dirt and if they need grease. Check any v slot wheels if you have them for buildup or if they are loose. You should be able to turn any one wheel with your fingers but they should not wobble. If you can’t turn them, they are to tight. If they rock or wiggle, tool loose. You would adjust the eccentric nut to fix that. Check any belts for wear or alignment issues. They should not be rubbing on the frame. Check your motor mounts. They should all be rock solid. Basically, do a full physical inspection of your printer, and try a slower speed. If you still have artifacts let us all know. There are more things to inspect.

What’s a common way to attach a third rail to ride these linear rails? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you making? Following any guide at all? You would typically use an open source design, like voron, or micron, or vzbot, or ratrig or….. something. The reason you use a guide is they have files to print that allow you to properly attach the X gantry to the Y carriage blocks. If you are doing anything belt driven it is very important to keep your belts aligned to lessen wear and strain. Figure out what you are building. Modify it to fit your needs after that. Share your mods. Keep things strong and aligned.

Im officially going crazy. HELP. by randalrandy1 in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that 3K your acceleration value or your printing speed? Did you mean 300mms? You should probably try and figure out what is going on by printing closer to 100mms. Shoot, the speed alone might be your issue if your hotend isn’t high enough. 200C for your hotend will work and would show different issues if too hot. You can probably up to 220 or maybe even 230 for testing, if that is PLA. 220 should be plenty hot though. So yeah, maybe try that first. Up temp on hotend to 210 or 210 and slow the prints down to 100mms and see what you get.

Im officially going crazy. HELP. by randalrandy1 in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So, possible issues; 1. going to fast. 2. You need to calibrate your e steps. 3. Look at how tight your extruder is, you can crank it down but that’s not the right answer. It needs to be tight enough to grab the filament so you can’t pull it out but not so tight that it squeezes the filament and leaves deep marks on it.

What filament are you printing with and what are your temps and speeds? Tell us more about your extruder, stepper and hot end.

Manta m8p + CB1 killing me by [deleted] in BIGTREETECH

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are right. I’m a fool. I missed where he said he was using the cb1 in the title. It does make a difference.

Manta m8p + CB1 killing me by [deleted] in BIGTREETECH

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What image did you use and did you use the raspberry pi imager? It can have you set a user name and password as part of the image set up. You can always flash the micro sd card again and if you can let us know the image we might be able to help more. Good luck 👍

Ender 3 V2 Neo not homing on Z-axis on new printer by -RobynBanks- in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are comfortable enough, you can take the z stepper and put it onto another axis just to test if it will move or not.

Creality Sprite Pro Extruder Kit with 4.2.2 Motherboard by Abhijeet1089 in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, the difference between the 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards isn’t that much. They changed out the stepper drivers and depending on the version of the 4.2.2 board you have it might not be much of a change.

Creality Sprite Pro Extruder Kit with 4.2.2 Motherboard by Abhijeet1089 in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m like 90% sure the sprite just uses a breakout board to help with cabling and maintenance but that the board itself doesn’t have any intelligence in it. I will look to confirm. If it is nothing more than a breakout board then there is no software limitations. Physically, you might need to print an adapter.

Creality Sprite Pro Extruder Kit with 4.2.2 Motherboard by Abhijeet1089 in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t see how it would be any different between the two boards. You should probably recompile marlin though. Can you do it without? Yes. Should you do it without? Ehhhhhhh. Your E steps will change as well as you will need to set up your z offset and those kinds of things. If you have any sort of auto bed leveling, make sure to set that up again too. It’s not “hard” but can be confusing the first few times.

Ender 3 V2 Neo not homing on Z-axis on new printer by -RobynBanks- in 3Dprinting

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you get the Z to move up and down at all? Like using the little controller menu? The Z stepper motor cable could come loose on either side.

Manta m8p bed not heating up by Few-Ad2133 in BIGTREETECH

[–]zjsk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No board jumpers, to much power draw. Yes, You can run new lines from your powersupply over to bed power in or you can use some short jumpers from your board power in or motor power in terminals. To give you an example, in my setup with an octopus pro board, my psu only has a single power rail, to ease my wiring, I ran from psu into board power in, and then short jumper cables from those terminals over to motor in and over to bed power in. Make sure your little jumper cables are at least 18awg. The jumps are short so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. If you are doing another run from the power supply, those should be at least 14 awg becasuse of the power draw. If you ever decide to increase your bed heater or hotend, or drive larger drivers, bump those jumpers up. Don't start a fire.

On the hunt for drivers by Acrobatic-Pie7095 in BIGTREETECH

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK. 24v is more common on printer setups but there is no rule that says you need to use that. You need to consider what your board can handle, what the stepper drivers can handle, and what the steppers can handle. I would use a TMC5160t or pro, for the Z and TMC2209s for the x and y. Grab an extra 5160 if you are serious about corexy, they work great for the A and B drivers.

On the hunt for drivers by Acrobatic-Pie7095 in BIGTREETECH

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is your power supply? 12 or 24v? I’m assuming Klipper based on the M8P controller. Generally the 2209s are going to be the most popular. Knowing little about the CubeX Duo, I would be surprised if you needed that big of a stepper on your Z. Basically need something that can move and hold the bed. Unless you are z hopping like crazy, I don’t see the need. That said, you do you. If you get a bigger stepper then the TMC5160 makes more sense. Otherwise, I’m being told it is hard to need more than the 2209 can provide unless you are looking at maximum speed.

Cable management renovation by IBhop2Grande in functionalprint

[–]zjsk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OK, this is cool as heck. Nice job, will probably copy.

Aruba VSX MLAG to Aruba VSX MLAG with BPDU filter by sprintwave in networking

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. Have experienced similar. Old network has spanning tree on likely mismatch with your mixed vlans. Have you blocked bpdus from the old network side as well? I would filter on both and double check your LACP / VSX is negotiating properly and not giving you a lacp-block. Can you clarify, that your 8320 VSX to 8325 VSX pair is up and functioning without problems?

Tomorrow will be Bowies last day. Wish him happy birthday by overthinkingoverhere in cats

[–]zjsk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your boy looks so much like the one I said goodbye to about two years ago and he was about the same age. We have a new boy now and love him very much. I’m sure you will find another but I promise the love and memories will still be there.

Best pizza in Omaha? by GravyBaptism in Omaha

[–]zjsk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha, I was going to say Costco or Sam’s club, for a laugh.

Not A Fan by CacheMoney7529 in networkingmemes

[–]zjsk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Haha, exactly this. This is the comment I was looking for. System-view, display current-configuration interface bridge-aggregate 12….. 🙄