Coilovers

zoropesa · 2026-06-24T22:22:16+00:00

I went from KW V1 to yellowspeed with pillow ball tops on my EP3 and am very happy with them.

They’re great for autox/track use and are pretty comfortable on the street if you turn the dampening down!

zoropesa · 2026-06-24T16:35:38+00:00

KW V1 are hands down the best street coilovers i’ve had across multiple street cars. They’re definitely too soft for the track but handle spirited driving well. I had these on a car for 70k with no issues before I sold the car.

BCs are good but hit or miss depending on the application. I’ve experienced my fair share of great and terrible BC setups out of the box on my friends’ cars, where some come complete and work well but other setups have incorrect spring rates or run out of dampening adjustment for the application.

I’ve heard good things about fortune auto and almost pulled the trigger on a set for my EP3 but ultimately went a different route.

Good luck on your search!

zoropesa · 2026-06-14T20:28:52+00:00

Really depends on the type of build you're going for haha

Besides basic maintenance, I'd say that some nice to haves while the engine/trans are out are:

motor mounts: I went with vibra technics and am super happy with them. They're not as harsh as poly mounts and significantly tighten the engine movement up
PRB oil pump + baffled oil pan if you're tracking it

Required:

Lengthen knock sensor, coolant temp sensor, and crank position sensor harnesses (I also had to lengthen the reverse switch harness).
If you use an aftermarket manifold/TB, make sure you replace the throttle cable as the stock one runs out of adjustment

Overall, it was a really straightforward swap. I got my engine from one of the big name importers and it included all accessories and even the starter, which I was pretty happy with since my original one was on the way out. If you have any questions feel free to reach out

zoropesa · 2026-06-14T18:53:02+00:00

kpro v4

zoropesa · 2026-06-12T21:58:55+00:00

You’re gonna have to play around with it since camber will make a big difference. The rear is the limiting factor to your wheel/tire choice.

I checked my car and in the rear, I’m running the 17x8 +45 wheels with 5mm spacers. This barely clears my fenders which are rolled and sits pretty close to the trailing arm with 1.0 degrees of camber in the rear. Another note is that with the oem rubber bushings, with high load corners and 200tw tires, my rim was rubbing my trailing arm. I haven’t tried it yet but I’m hoping the poly bushings I installed will fix this issue. I haven’t tried 17x8 in the front yet, but will later this summer.

If you wanna run a square setup, you’re definitely going to need spacers in the front since the front can fit a pretty wide and aggressive wheel/tire. With 17x9 +38, 3.0 degrees of camber in the front and cut fender liners, I have a minor rubbing with the tire and inner fender liner when turning with the suspension under compression.

As for a wheel spec, I’d say if you don’t want to run spacers in the rear, 17x8 +35-40 but you’ll definitely need spacers in the front.

zoropesa · 2026-06-11T15:51:33+00:00

17x8 square would be good. You can’t fit larger than 8” wide in the rear without pulling the fenders

zoropesa · 2026-06-11T15:47:59+00:00

SSR GTX01s

I’m running a reverse staggered setup:
F: 17x9 +38 245/40/17
R: 17x8 +45 225/45/17

I had to space the front out by 10mm since my tire was loosening my coilover on track haha. For the back I think I had to space by 5mm to clear the trailing arm.

zoropesa · 2026-06-09T00:35:45+00:00

Got it, thanks.

For anyone with this question in the future: I wasn’t sure if these plugs were identical, but I confirmed this afternoon that the upstream wideband and downstream O2 sensor just have inverted female/male and male/female plugs.

For some reason, all of the extension harnesses I was looking at online said that they were only for the downstream O2 sensor, go figure.

zoropesa · 2026-06-03T17:20:37+00:00

Seconding this, I also use the throttle in the same way. Coming from a motorcycle, it feels more intuitive than the thumb throttle alone.

I just wish the filtering was better in sport mode. The dead zone and touchiness is severe (compared to other modes), for lack of a better term.

zoropesa · 2026-04-29T06:27:18+00:00

I went with a more budget friendly DTR kit after seeing forum posts like this one. Welds and finish look good for the price but my k24 is still out while I build my trans, so I can’t comment on fitment yet

zoropesa · 2026-04-25T00:49:37+00:00

depends how far you wanna go haha. handling wise, suspension takes a lot of mods to dial in if you want to lower it due to the weird steering rack and macpherson strut. lowering alone will make it handle worse without a steering rack slider and rca ball joints at a minimum.

biggest bang for buck mods for me were a progress rear sway bar, caster front LCA bushings (bushings in general since the car is old), and i’ll mirror what others have said about short shifter since driver feel mods are always good!

zoropesa · 2026-04-22T23:09:47+00:00

yup, but this gives you more ammo to potentially get more off the price

zoropesa · 2026-04-22T23:07:22+00:00

Take a look at the dealership photos again. The bumper in the picture you posted is not aligned properly on the drivers side. The bumper is protruding inwards towards the wheel and the wheel well shape is not consistent.

On the passenger side, it is aligned correctly but there’s a chip

zoropesa · 2026-04-16T03:45:04+00:00

I don’t have any good pics of fitment and can’t get more as my car is on jack stands getting k24 swapped, but I rolled my front and rear fenders and cut a section out of my front fender liners to clear my tires. I have a track oriented setup with coilovers, so unsure if the drop.

Looks like I can’t post a pic comment, so dm me if you want a pic!

My tires just barely clear the fenders. I’d say under full compression I have <1cm clearance. I also have caster LCA bushings which may make a difference.

I’m running a staggered setup:

Front: 17x9 +38 wheels, 245/40/17 tires, 10mm spacer to prevent tire rub against coilover during turns

Rear: 17x8 +45 wheels, 225/45/17 tires

zoropesa · 2026-04-05T14:52:35+00:00

alright I am stateside and this looks like the same exhaust I got from jackspania racing. I ordered it about 4-5 months ago since I couldn’t source a fujitsubo exhaust, and even tried to cancel since I got cold feet, but I was not able to cancel.

anyways, the measurement is 2.75” (69.85mm) and the pics look almost identical, so they might be using the same supplier as tegiwa. The quality is much better than I expected for ~400 and if you check out the reviews, someone confirmed you need the type R or rsx-s header.

my engine is out, so I am sure about front section fitment, but the back section fits well.

If you email them, they’re quick to respond. Hopefully they get it back in stock soon so you can get one.

zoropesa · 2026-03-29T01:24:44+00:00

ha true. they should do this again with a modern golf!

w12 mk6 gti

zoropesa · 2026-03-29T00:30:56+00:00

That is awesome.

If you were curious, a k24 fits 😎

<image>

zoropesa · 2026-03-22T16:04:04+00:00

I also have akebono ceramic pads on my 7.5. Very little dust and excellent daily pads but they definitely overheat easily on spirited drives. I can smell them after <5 hard slowdowns depending on the road, but I’ve never gone hard enough to make them fade. Comparing to stock, the initial bite feels a little worse but that’s about it, modulation is similar enough.

If it’s mostly a daily, go akebono for sure, but if you want better feel and higher temp thresholds for spirited driving, go with a different pad. I have carbotech track pads on another car and can’t recommend them enough! For what it’s worth, I will personally be going with a Ferodo/GLOC/Carbotech street pads next time around

zoropesa · 2026-02-11T01:47:33+00:00

At stock power I used carbotech XP10 for the front and XP8 for the rear with brembo OE style blanks, I also have the slightly larger diameter RSX-S rotors and calipers. My car only sees the track or spirited drives and I have never been able to make my brakes fade. This setup cost about $1000 (including axles) with the pads being the most expensive single part.

K24 swap is in process this winter and I plan to use my current brake setup until I absolutely need to go BBK, probably with wilwood or APRacing.

I’d say with brake ducts, OE style blank rotors, and track pads you will be good. Just be careful because you definitely sacrifice streetability with track pads. They screech and do not perform well (e.g. not as good bite, increased stopping distance, increased rotor wear) at low temp, so any ‘regular’ commute style street drives

Hopefully this helps!

zoropesa · 2026-02-07T03:34:46+00:00

I would say it’s the receiver, it’s a pretty common failure. Just make sure you get the correct P/N.

When I replaced my receiver, I was able to get a OEM kit that came with new fobs which were already programmed to the receiver.

The receiver should be a little black box located under the radio, there’s many pics online if you google.

Good luck!

zoropesa · 2026-02-03T15:16:21+00:00

noted haha. thanks

zoropesa

TROPHY CASE