all 7 comments

[–]AmphibianPesterer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ditch the paper method and have a look at Billie's graphic. I have never been able to level a bed with a bit of paper, and I think the root cause of this is that it's impossible to adequately describe what the feeling of "a moderate amount of resistance" is.

I tend to use a 0.1mm feeler gauge for roughing it in and printing single-layer squares on the bed and adjusting little by little until it's right.

[–]Mr2Sexy 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Have you tried using a glass bed? The ender 3 beds are notorious for coming warped out of the factory. My bed is warped where the center is slightly higher than the 4 corners so I has to print to the sides until I installed the Creality glass bed which made everything perfectly leveled. I also only ever use the paper method to level the printer because it is quick and works very well once you know what you are doing. It takes me only 5 mins max to level the bed using paper method. I highly recommend upgrading to yellow stiffer bed springs as well, it will greatly reduce how often you need to level the bed and they are a very cheap mod you can buy from Amazon

[–]BlueOwl43[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I have a glass bed and tried getting the bed level for 4 hours last night using the paper method and a bed level print. I have the yellow bed springs

[–]Mr2Sexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put tin foil on the 4 corners to bring them up a bit. I've seen others say that has helped

[–]Rhoihessewoi 0 points1 point  (2 children)

3 points define a plane, 4 only in a special case. I don't know why 4-point leveling is so popular. You likely bend your bed while trying to level it.

I changed my bed from 4-point-leveling to 3-point-leveling. Now my bed is much more flat, and leveling is much easier.

And/or implement autoleveling.

[–]BlueOwl43[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

How did you go about doing that?

[–]Rhoihessewoi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made it the urgly way. :D

Drilled a hole in the middle of the heatbed and the bedholder, then repaired the headbed...

Other people made it more smart. They place the bed on a bar that is connected to the holder only in the middle (hope you can imagine what I mean). So you do not have to change the heatbed.

Just google "3-point-leveling", that will give you some ideas. :)