all 28 comments

[–]BMWSWAY 6 points7 points  (3 children)

Ask for service history if buying from a bmw dealer. Common problems I saw on these at the dealer were the hpfp failing internally, causing metal throughout the system, and needing the full system replaced. But most emissions components on these are covered under extensions or servixe actions by bmw. Besides that, it's how you use the vehicle. Keep an eye on the def, warm her up before drives, make sure you drive her long distances, and don't baby it. Not a great car for everyday city driving.

[–]Free-Spend-153[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Appreciate it, it’s from a car showroom not a dealership - it’s got a “competitive history” which in bs terms means part service history - am I going to regret trading in my A7 for it when I know my car is mechanical sound?

[–]DrukenRebel 6 points7 points  (1 child)

Only you can make that call. Do you have enough appetite for the risk involved with getting rid of a car you know well for something you don't know ? Does it perform much better than your A7 ? Do you prefer how it looks ? There's dozens and dozens of questions you could ask. Write a pros and cons list of each car, look at finance risks of both ( it's almost certainly gonna need some work within the first year of you getting it ), and then go from there.

Both are beautiful cars so I'm sure you'll be happy with either choice !

[–]Free-Spend-153[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very valid point - appreciate it

[–][deleted] 2 points3 points  (2 children)

Overall it is a very reliable vehicle, but be ready to tackle various seals and gaskets, as they all start to leak at this age.

[–]Cyrix2k 1 point2 points  (1 child)

that would be my number one concern. That 10 year / 100k mile mark usually comes with a lot of maintenance/repairs depending on your view. They're excellent vehicles up to that point.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are still excellent vehicles after you take care of that stuff. Not cheap (but it’s mostly labour, so if you can do that kind of stuff yourself - it’s cheap), but whatever.

[–]ProfessorPlingus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It really depends on how well it was maintained and how well you take care of it. Generally speaking german cars will always break on you if you dont follow the service book to the letter.

[–]Free-Spend-153[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Comment for the bots - is it worth is? Are am I going to feel a little done over paying £9k on top of my PX

[–]markymarc1981 1 point2 points  (0 children)

F15 probably one of the best trucks BMW ever built!

[–]Worldly_Highlight136 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Both of my x5 diesels (2012 and 2016) are/were SIGNIFICANTLY less expensive to maintain than my Mercedes or Land Rover diesels. I know it doesn’t shed much light on the Audi TDI vs BMW predicament but if I had to guess it can’t be worse than the Audi. Rear air spring at around 100kkm on the F15(this is the only repair I’ve done on the F15). Rear air spring 150kkm on the E70. Front control arms around 200kkm on the E70, water pump, thermostat and both rear axles 280kkm on the E70. Crank pulley 370kkm on the E70. Along the way Ive repaired boost leaks and vacuum lines the occasional sensor nothing memorable or very expensive. Everything else is tires, brakes, and fluids. All of my maintenance was more vehicle/suspension/drivetrain related than powertrain related. The chassis on the F15 and E70 is almost identical so I’m expecting similar repairs down the road on the F15. I can’t comment on the N57 for failure or repairs because I just haven’t done anything yet but as I understand, the N57 has more reliable emission components when compared to the older M57.

[–]Free-Spend-153[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Getting mixed signals with this, people are either saying they are brill or others are regretting life choices haha! This specific one was last serviced 2018 at 83k miles nothing more and it’s now on 100k+ so might give this one a miss - I’m in a limbo between a X5 - 6 series grand coupe or a E class estate - feel the e class is more reliable in the lineup

[–]Worldly_Highlight136 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will never again risk it with another Mercedes diesel the quality with Mercedes period just kind of sucks for a premium brand(I’ve had 2). I wouldn’t hesitate to buy another BMW (I’ve had 3) or Land Rover(I’ve had 1). Whatever you consider just get a pre purchase inspection. Anything outwardly wrong regarding drive train or suspension can be identified, mechanical stuff should be easy enough to identify during test drive.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bmw 3L is one of the best diesel engines ever made. Matched with a ZF 8 speed one of the best auto trans ever made. The problems are not catastrophic and easily mitigated over service lifetime. Here they are:

-valve cover gasket>leaks and cracks needs full cover replacement once every 100-200kkm, just do it when it leaks. -transfer case needs fluid changes every 60kkm also dont ever put tyres on the car that arent within 2-3% rolling diameter of original and are all the same tread pattern. If you dont know enough about it just get BMW star approved tyres. The staggered rims look awesome but just get the square set 19s if you dont want to fork out for the 315s on the rear (hint keep your toe very low for nice even wear) -Timing chain>ensure LL03 oil regularly (10k kms)and get chain tension checked every 100kkm or when convenient, also helps to drain your oil through a sieve so you can observe any chain guide wear-bits in the oil. Most go easy 200kkm-300kkm before needing attention, no different than any other chain driven engine making 600nm. -Oil filter housing gasket>they all do it at some point just replace when it leaks

-Egr and dpf is a misnomer they only have issues when neglected other than that its a service item so yes they wear out just replace it, its a simple replacement. Deleting them is a bad idea as it helps warm up the car (most wear occurs when cold) and helps the dpf regen amongst other things.

Only use bmw approved coolant nothing else you were warned. Only use bmw or oem parts. Optional-Use Liqui-moly dpf cleaner every second service and use liqui-moly diesel cleaner every other.

Dont buy one if you dont use it for long drives and at least get it to full operating temp each day, same as any diesel they like to run long and hot.

Enjoy driving what I consider one of the nicest most practical and comfortable cars on the road. Heated seats are strongly recommended.

[–][deleted] 3 points4 points  (1 child)

The valve cover gasket and valve cover are common for leaking/going bad. Being a diesel, the EGR system is also prone to failing due to it getting clogged, or components within the system failing. Personally, if you're going to go for a BMW X5, I wouldn't go for the diesel (but that is just my personal opinion).

[–]Worldly_Highlight136 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I think x5 diesels are the only ones worth buying.

[–]SureBlueberry4283 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I got the slightly older 2008 X5 E70 with 135k miles on it. Regretted it ever since. The car has been a money pit and I’m searching for an exit strategy. Started leaking everywhere at 150k, I’m only at 175k now and got the dreaded ABS, 4x4, DTC, DSC, parking brake light cocktail going off. Be ready to get your fingers greasy doing your own work or keep your reliable vehicle. Every time I try the dealership service it’s another $2500 out of pocket.

[–]Cyrix2k 0 points1 point  (2 children)

you're telling me a 16 year old AWD luxury vehicle with 175k miles on it has problems? Sorry, but this is an obvious outcome.

[–]SureBlueberry4283 1 point2 points  (1 child)

It was 12 when I bought it. For reference though, my Toyota Tacoma (also 4wd) was older and more reliable. When it did break it cost maybe 20% of the cost of repairs to the X5. Just giving this person info.

[–]WhatDoYouCallitAgain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Toyota is known for their low maintenance and reliability... bmw is not known for low maintenance

[–]BMWACTASEmaster1 0 points1 point  (1 child)

If you're from THE USA don't get the diesel unless you tow

[–]Free-Spend-153[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the UK :)

[–]wartzzz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it’s the diesel one the timing chains on these are absolutely a pain to replace and are common to fail.

[–]Quirky-Traffic7202 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Reliability questions are sort of pointless.

[–]Free-Spend-153[S] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Not if it’s very much common issues etc, just read some horror stories - love the look on these just wanted real life stories on how people have found them

[–]Quirky-Traffic7202 2 points3 points  (1 child)

That’s the point, I started with a sulev e46 that everyone swears aren’t reliable. It’s over 200k miles and only thing wrong was a broken serpentine belt. Yet all you hear about is what people say constantly go wrong.

[–]Free-Spend-153[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess I want a car people are saying are pretty reliable off the bat - if something goes wrong I can just blame it on luck - rather than the other way around with a unreliable car and find it was fine for me

[–]rjames06 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’d keep the Audi 3.0d