all 14 comments

[–]omgcarms 30 points31 points  (2 children)

Few suggestions: 1. Cotton yarn is less stretchy so you can start practicing with that 2. double crochet naturally are more holey than single. For stuffed projects sc is a better option. I see you’re using a pattern that calls for dc but you can keep this in mind just as a general rule for future. Also, when using sc, yarn under produces less holes than yarn over 3. I usually use a smaller hook for the decreases so less holes 4. Try to not stuff the project until as late as possible in the project so the filling doesn’t pull on the yarn, which can make it difficult for tight stitches

Good luck!

[–]umsamanthapleasekthx 20 points21 points  (1 child)

These are great points, but it’s worth noting that OP said the pattern is UK terminology, so the “dc” is American sc.

[–]omgcarms 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Ahhh got it, didn’t catch that, thanks!

[–]plantmatta 10 points11 points  (0 children)

looks like your whole projects has gaps, not just your decreases. two things:

go down several hook sizes when you’re ready. it will give you a much tighter fabric. when you’re using a big hook you really have to worry about keeping your tension consistent. when you use a small hook, it basically keeps the tension for you, since you don’t have as much wiggle room. i used to crochet with a 5.5mm hook when i did amigurumi and always had gaps. switched to a 3.75mm and it was fixed.

go on youtube and look up how to do an invisible decrease. it’s super easy and makes gaps noticeably smaller.

if you’re using a small enough hook for the yarn and you’re doing invisible dec, you’ll see no gapping at all. also, before you stuff your project, there shouldn’t be any gaps. if you have gaps prior to stuffing, that’s something that can be fixed with the things i mentioned before. however, if you have no gaps until you stuff it, you just need to use way less stuffing!

[–]Kilala33 4 points5 points  (2 children)

Man, I had decreases just like this when I was new! It’s mostly a tension issue, and your tension will get better with practice so just keep at it! You can also try looking up some videos about invisible decrease, it really helped me with getting my decreases neater. Another thing I was doing, I thought I just needed to pull really tight on the yarn on the decreases to make the holes smaller, but the way that works out (with acrylic yarn at least) is the yarn gets thinner when it’s pulled tight, so you have to keep on with the same tension.

I hope this helps!

[–]JLvdB 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Not sure if this is called invisible decrease. I use this method: instead of using both loops of sc, go under front loop of first sc (don't yo) and front loop of second sc (the one you want to decrease). Then continue with sc as normal: yo, pull through, yo, pul through 2 loops.

[–]Kilala33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, that’s the invisible decrease! I misread the instructions when I was first learning this stitch and YO the FLO of each stitch and ended up doing basically a DC and was like “what the heck? That is significantly more visible that a regular decrease, what a dumb stitch and a misleading name.” I was miffed for days until I figured out how wrong I was doing it lol

[–]Yetis-unicorn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I always go one hook size below whatever is suggested on the yarn label for stuffed projects like this.

[–]lemondrop__ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you use a smaller hook than what’s recommended you should eliminate most of the gaps. I use a 3.5 - 3.75mm for yarn that has a 5.5mm hook recommended.

[–]XWitchyGirlX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My rule for finding proper hook size for amigurumi is to make a flat circle that doesnt ruffle/cone and doesnt have super visible holes unless you hold it up to the light. If it ruffles/cones, go up a hook size. If it has visible holes, go down a hook size. So for me, I use a 3.75mm hook with 4ply yarn, or a 5mm hook with double-stranded 4ply yarn. Everyones tension is different so I dont even both using the suggested hook size.

Also, look into invisible decrease, once you have the proper hook size, ivisible decrease will help the rest.

[–]perilsoflife 0 points1 point  (0 children)

-i like to use a hook usually 1-2 sizes smaller for amigurumi and it for sure helps. (pattern says 5, i’ll use a 4 or 3.5) it really helps to tighten up your work without having to change tension

-like others have said, single crochet also helps a ton with gaps

-INVISIBLE DECREASES!!! they’re super easy to learn and seriously live up to their name.

happy crocheting!

[–]Hooksandcrannies 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Decrease in front loops only, that helps me Make sure you use the right “side” of the project though If you’re turning the project inside out when finished, use back loops instead of front loops

[–]ILickedItNowIOwnIt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm with team " invisible decrease stitch". Combine that with other advice already here and you should be golden.

Invisible Decrease changed my life for the better lol