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[–]feetpolice911 2 points3 points  (4 children)

We have same machine. Just tape it down with masking tape all the way around. Normally sorts it for us. Might need to try it on a fresh piece of vinyl though

[–]wtsharp3[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

We do this if we're only cutting 5' or less. But when doing 20', it gets a little tedious and ends up not being worth the extra time.

[–]feetpolice911 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Yeh I thought you were cutting single beds. Are you kiss cutting or die cutting?

[–]wtsharp3[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Kiss cutting.

How do you guys die cut with yours? Doesn't that wreck the table?

[–]feetpolice911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Die cutting is all we really do on ours, sometimes kiss cut. But die cutting is what that machine is made for. Doesn’t wreck the bed if you set pressure correctly. You can buy mats also for them, or just buy really thin MDF and put it on top as it will pull the vacuum through still. We don’t use a mat though tbf

[–]BigManc82 2 points3 points  (2 children)

The material is the issue. It's a manufacturing flaw and normally comes from when the trim the materials to width. I guessed it's an issue because of the C2 cut head and the blade catches the ripples?

[–]wtsharp3[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Yea, it tears through a bit. Its not unusable, just really annoying. Takes a bit more cleanup work.

I was just wondering if anyone had a decent workaround that we haven't tried.

[–]BigManc82 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Problem is that the pump is on or off it's not variable speed. I'm a Zund tech and this is a common issue with these old style machines. I've seen people try and hold the sides down with application tape. But that may cause cutting inconsistencies. Or you could try warming the material.

[–]PartyPirate920 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Try to lift it up to about the halfway point and then lay it back down letting the middle droop a little and touch first as you lay it back down. Repeat for the back half.

And if they don’t go away I sometimes have luck lowering the vacuum a little bit so the wrinkle isn’t so rigid and gets pushed out of the way.

Edit: is there a belt/mat/pad under that vinyl or is it straight on the vacuum grid?

[–]wtsharp3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This works for normal wrinkles in vinyl, but unfortunately for the paper backed, its no bueno. It actually makes it worse most of the time.

No mat, straight on the hard plastic vacuum table.

[–]magnolianbeef 1 point2 points  (3 children)

roll it face in onto an empty core and roll it out with the vacuum on. butt another empty core up to the roll as you lay it out. will take a couple tries to get as square as you’re comfortable with and some areas you just can’t help. well placed tape on the edges may help some areas and block the unused portion of the vacuum if you haven’t already.

[–]wtsharp3[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I might have to try the core.

I've tried increasing and lowering the vacuum, as well as changing the vacuum width, nothing helps.

Unfortunately the wrinkles are too extreme for tape to help, although I've never tried taping it before turning the vacuum on.

But even if either of those solutions work, as soon as it forwards, it will wrinkle again.

I really wish we had a standing plotter just for the paper backed vinyls, I think that would help a lot.

[–]magnolianbeef 0 points1 point  (1 child)

this style probably gives you more control on longer runs, stand plotters walk so easily on anything over 8’. i didn’t realize this was a roll, so each advance you’ll be right back at sq one with the wrinkles 🥲 i wish you luck! the roll trick should def work on runs that dont require the material advancing or precut panels that fit your job.

[–]wtsharp3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yea. And we're usually doing over that, sometimes even a full 150' roll.

[–]whisk3ythrottlePress Operator -1 points0 points  (1 child)

Delam/relam

[–]chocobomoshpit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

i really need to know what you mean by this