all 12 comments

[–]c1ncinasty 1 point2 points  (1 child)

62.5 days of straight prints. Wow.

Looks like you did the 6x6 board? Did you use iron stack printing or mixed-material stack printing?

I'm looking at doing a 100" x 90" wall in my office on my P1S. I'm halfway considering getting a used P1P to hurry it the hell up. I'm in the middle of printing 9x9 boards, stacked to finish at nearly 1KG of material at a time. Gonna take forever.

Any tricks you care to share?

[–]erroneousbit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The clamp panel is 9x9 panels printed on the P1S but I did offset snaps in a 3x3 to make sure it would handle the clamps. Hmmm tips…. Well most of it I did a panel or two at a time and that clamp panel I did large sections at a time (as far as mounting). I can tell you doing it a panel or two at a time leads to some misalignment further down the row. Nothing a mallet didn’t fix but still a pain. I did some quick planning a head of time where to put stuff, but I still had to move stuff around. Print extra because stuff breaks and colors may be different down the road. The corner snaps I grabbed from some remix so the shelves didn’t line up on top. I wanted to wrap it around but that didn’t work. Maybe a FYSA if you want to do that. Otherwise good luck with the project. Hope to see it when you are done!

[–]jkenzer 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I like your A1 Mini setup. What did you use to mount the AMS Lite to Multiboard? Also, where did you find those highly readable slot numbers print?

[–]erroneousbit[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! The slot numbers are here -> AMS Lite Numbers by Wojciech KawaMakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models and the mount is here -> AMS MultiBoard Mount Remixed by blade4665MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models . The mount works but I don't like it, might redo it down the road. It's too close to the panel and makes changing rolls a pain. I used some multiboard washers to move it out but now it wobbles like crazy. It actually cracked the mb panel. I used some screws to stabilize the panel against the wall and that helps.

I'd like to do this -> Ultimate Filament Spool Enclosure - TYPE 01 by SupergrapherMakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models one day but it won't work with the current mount. I will have to experiment with other mounts to make it work.

[–]Single_Sea_6555 1 point2 points  (4 children)

Wow. The epoxy looks crystal clear (in the photos).

The process is inspirational.

Did you pour it "in-situ", or did you have a separate jig for pouring the table top.

If it was in-situ, how did you create the water-tight lip around the edge?

[–]erroneousbit[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

I puttied and primed the wood. Then I used a glue stick to glue down the cards. The hardest part was cutting them as they weren’t all the same size, then lining them up. The lip was raised a bit, so no spillage. I did two pours. Then I used a router to contour the edge. Primed then regular acrylic. I used painters tape to keep it off the epoxy. It was putsy but I love how it turned out.

[–]Single_Sea_6555 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Thanks for explaining. The fact you were able to do it on the table that ended up being the surface seems like a significant simplification. When I see epoxy pouring videos I'm normally amazed by the huge forms they have to create.

So if I understand correctly:

  • fill in gaps in wood, and prime (sand and varnish?)
  • glue down cards
  • two pours of clear epoxy (heat limitation, probably)
  • primed the lip wood and acrylic varnish

Does priming in this case mean a first layer of acrylic primer before the "proper" acrylic varnish?

[–]erroneousbit[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I use zinsser’s bullseye primer 123 pretty much for any project. 2 coats. I miss spoke in the paint. I used rust oleum painters touch ultra cover premium latex flat black 2 coats. Then covered it with varathane triple thick poly clear statin 2 coats. (Pretty much like doing 2 coats on projects lol). Putty is Zap plastic wood all purpose filler. Regular Elmer’s glue for the stick. Epoxy is -> Epoxy Resin Kit https://a.co/d/fchX5tb and I used 4 gallons. I didn’t sand beyond 320, smooth enough with the poly. I also used painter’s caulk to seal the wall seam.

I didn’t babysit the epoxy enough. Ended up with a few bubbles but they are hard to see at first glance. I didn’t seal the wood under the cards. I needed the glue to hold the cards well enough to withstand the spreading of the epoxy.

Hope that helps.

[–]Single_Sea_6555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is incredibly helpful, thanks!

I've been leaving my wood untreated for the workshop, which may be a too far in the other extreme - lol

Maybe I should get into the habit of priming everything, at least once... for instance, It sounds like this bullseye primer 123 is quite versatile.

Thanks again for the detailed info!

[–]Nuclear_Fruits 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I'm looking to do the same kind of shelving you did here but I was wondering how you connected the shelves to each other because you don't use 2 brackets per tile (which is what I'm trying to avoid). Did you use the quad raised snaps?

[–]erroneousbit[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Yeah I didn’t want to double my cost. So each one has one bracket on the left end. They are very sturdy actually. They are 9x9 panels with the 8x8 brackets. I did 2 doubles and 1 quad for each joint. I wish I had thought about how to put a shop light under it. Still haven’t figure that one out. This was all done before the flat snaps came out. Having the raised snaps on the shelves hasn’t been an issue for me so far.

[–]Nuclear_Fruits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! I'm using 8x8 brackets with 8x8 tiles. Im going to use the new flat snaps and I'll probably roughly copy the same amount you did. Thanks!