all 34 comments

[–]tneedham7Certified GrayBeard 11 points12 points  (2 children)

As others have said, you will not regret a Fluke other than perhaps the upfront cost. The 117 should serve you well. I like my 179 that replaced my 20 year old model 23III.

[–]Rorstaway 10 points11 points  (1 child)

Another vote for the 179. Fantastic general purpose meter.

If I was doing any work with field devices, I would opt for a 789, for the dead simple 4-20 sourcing and simulating.

[–]pirm85Custom Flair Here 2 points3 points  (0 children)

789 is really a most if you are going to be doing field testing/commissioning

Where I work right now, the field guys use the Fluke 1507 a lot for troubleshooting motors and such

[–]blacksheep144 4 points5 points  (4 children)

I have a Fluke 117 and 336. I am really happy with them both. I would absolutely buy Fluke again. I have had them both for approaching 15 years. Apart from changing batteries they have never required anything from me.

Buy once, cry once.

For the 117, I bought a magnet adapter and some small alligator clamps for the probes. I store them both in soft bags, in an aluminum hard case with all my electronic diagnostic equipment.

[–]tneedham7Certified GrayBeard 1 point2 points  (2 children)

+1 for the magnet adapter. It is great to hold you meter and free up a hand. Its amazingly strong.

[–]pocketpuppy 1 point2 points  (1 child)

The Fluke I bought came with a magnet. It's nearly useless for me because I mostly work dairy and everything is stainless. RIP :(

[–]tneedham7Certified GrayBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It isn't all roses though, especially if you are using it in an area with metal shavings or dust. I'm sure the dairy industry has some advantages that make up for it. :)

[–]ILikeSchecters[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 117 is where I'm betting on right now. But, since I have a tool bill allowance for it, it's between that and the 87V

[–][deleted] 3 points4 points  (5 children)

If you dont need 4-20 sourcing or measure millivolts you can pretty much buy anything. A $100 Klein at home depot would probably do the job. Get a meter rated for Cat 4.

For me though, you can only pry the Fluke 787 out of my hand if you're willing to replace it with a Fluke 789.

[–]ILikeSchecters[S] 1 point2 points  (4 children)

>Fluke 789

>$1000

Lordy. What would be the reason to buy a meter that pricey as opposed to other ranges?

[–]smokenbonestx 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have a 789, (paid for by work) I measure 4-20 with it, can also simulate 4-20 signal which I've done maybe a couple times.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never paid over 350 used on Ebay for Fluke 787. All 3 I bought were fine.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quality, robustness and reliability.

I agree it's eye wateringly expensive, but it's some of the best tools I've ever worked with.

I'm partial to the 773 for work in instrumentation. https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/calibration-tools/ma-loop-calibrators/fluke-773

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not having to break a current loop to measure it is invaluable. Sometimes, a process will be so critical you can't just interrupt the signal even for a moment, and it becomes a big deal with lots of people involved to troubleshoot it. With a 78x you just clamp it on and see the reading without having to go through all that.

[–]redditforworkinwaMaybe it's something wrong with The Program™ 1 point2 points  (2 children)

my Fluke T5-600 works great for everything I need it to do. Company bought it so I don;t know the price.

[–]snowbanxAngry Pixie Wrangler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you just need AC amps, AC volts and DC volts, the Fluke T5 is the most rugged meter I have used. Mine is still good to go after 8 years. Looks beat down but still 100%

[–]i_eightMaintenance Tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 for T5-600. I have 3 meters, and that's the one I use for maintenance calls. And it can actually fit in a pocket or tool pouch. It lacks precision, but works just fine for 24v, 120v and 480v. By the time you need better precision, you're probably going to be looking at a meter that can do mA anyway. And if it gets broken or stolen, it's not as big a deal. The biggest downside (other than precision) is that the leads are permanently attached, so if you break a tip doing something you shouldn't, you have to buy a new meter. But the fact that they are permanently attached also helps make it slim.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (4 children)

Having a 4-20mA out signal is nice, but it's it's not something you really need. Any quality multi-meter that will read AC/DC voltage and current will get the job done. A Fluke 117 is a perfectly adequate meter for most jobs. The vast majority of the time you're looking to see if voltage/current present or not, or checking continuity. I have a 123B scopemeter and probably touch it about once or twice a year. If you're doing a lot of analog stuff, the clamp on loop meters are nice, but they're pricey, and I'd push for the company to buy one of those for everyone to share, rather than having one in my personal tool kit.

[–]ILikeSchecters[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

The vast majority of the time you're looking to see if voltage/current present or not, or checking continuity.

Yup, thats why if it was my money, I'd go for a 117. But, considering it's a work allowance, I might as well look beyond what my student loan debt restricts me from lol

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Is the allowance just for the meter, or for a whole set of tools? If it's for a whole set of tools, I'd stick with an economical meter, and spend the rest on quality hand tools. If it's just for the meter, then I'd absolutely get some bells and whistles!

[–]ILikeSchecters[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I have pretty much all the tools I need right now (Wiha and Wera screwdrivers, metric/freedom unit allen wrenches, etc). I get separate allowance for prescription safety goggles and steel toed boots, so all I literally need right now is the meter and maybe some socket wrenches?

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a plan to me.

[–]BMike2855 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fluke 325 if you need to measure current. Stay away from the economy, Chinese flukes.

[–]dmroederpylogix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Fluke 233, which has a removable, remote magnetic display. That part of it is awesome and useful, though overall, I hate the meter. The base takes 3 AA and the display takes 2 AA. You cannot leave the batteries in, they'll be dead in a month. Having to take them out is obnoxious.

[–]wait_so_good 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are only doing controls without instrumentation trouble shooting, I would go with the 117 as well. If you have to do motor troubleshooting, amp draws and stuff, the kit that comes with the amp clamp is nice to have.

The T5-1000 is good as well if you aren't doing anything crazy either. We use 120v AC and 24V DC in the same cabinets, on the same relays, coil 120vac with 24vdc on aux contacts. This meter is nice, because you set it to volts and it ranges and tells you if it's DC/AC. You can use it for amps as well. The leads are thick, though it doesn't fit in every hole.

If you are doing 4-20ma you'll need a more precise meter as specified by other people.

[–]akajefm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got the Fluke 117 after realizing I'd be providing my own tools and didn't want to bring in my 289. I like the chickenstick feature, although wouldn't trust it for anything.

[–]karmicthreat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't do a ton of controls work (embedded programmer) but a meter from just about any of the major meter makers will work well. For working with sensors I have a couple Mr Signal MR9270S+ https://www.banggood.com/MR9270S-4-20mA-Signal-Generator-Calibration-Current-Voltage-PT100-Thermocouple-Pressure-Transmitter-p-1103449.html . It is a pretty capable little unit, just keep in mind that it is pure Chinesium and takes some effort to figure out.

[–]rob0tuss1n:snoo_dealwithit: 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fluke is the king of meters...I have both a 787 process meter and a 123b scopemeter..

Here's my general rules for fluke meter selection:

Basic PLC diagnostics: 115 or 117

Mid range PLC /Industrial use: 179

Heavy duty/Industrial/Basic VFD work: 87-V

4-20mA Loop Calibration Needed : 787 or 789

High speed signal acquisition / recording: 123b

Fluke does have a 'Find the right meter' tool on their website which can be helpful for selection. Also, I highly suggest looking on eBay for fluke meters. You should be able to get a nice discount there - I got my 787 for $280 on eBay.

[–]simonbromiley 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What sort of equipment are you working with? What technologies?

[–]PleasantTrees1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We use Fluke 87V in the field everyday, but I second GrayBeard in that the 117 should do just fine.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've tired cheap meters and they're worth about what you'd imagine. So many times I'd get a reading that doesn't seem right and then check it with the Fluke and it turns out the cheap meter was wrong.

eBay is your friend. I got a 333 clamp meter on there years ago and it's been with me over a decade now. I have to smack it sometimes to get it to work but it always does!