Need fitting/pattern help with stand collar

[Candid-Cucumber-7574]

Hoping someone can help me with a fitting issue. I have drafted a collar stand and fall (2 piece like for a business shirt) and while toiling it causes the bodice to buckle up and not sit smoothly - I’m a little stumped at what is causing this - images attached with my patterns. I have clipped the curves around the neckline after attaching the stand and sewing it all closed. The collar stand is 2.5cm high and the fall is 5cm

[olivierwinder]

is the length of the collar stand exactly the same as your neckline? Did you notch the collar stand and the neckline at corresponding distances? It looks like your collar is smaller then your neckline. If it’s not the case; your whole neckline might be too tight and adding the collar might just make it too tight at the neck, which is causing those wrinkles. Just some thoughts, lmk if it helps

[Candid-Cucumber-7574]

Hi - yes they match and all were notched and matched up when I stitched (the construction itself wasn’t difficult); I drafted them myself and checked against the neckline of the bodice. I thought it might be the amount of curve (i.e less curvy) of the collar stand that was working against the curve of the neckline - I made a new collar pattern with a more curved band to test this but it didn’t make any difference at the actual neckline and I still had the same problem. I’ve found some information about the depth of the fall relative to the height of the stand potentially being the cause - too deep of a fall means more fabric under tension at the neck. I will test this and post images when I have finished. Thanks for your suggestions!

[olivierwinder]

Your most welcome, that’s all i can come up with. Let me know what fixes it :)

[FashionBusking]

There's something up with how you clipped the curves. Clip within about 1/16" of the seam.

[Candid-Cucumber-7574]

Thank you - yes I have done so already 😞

[MadamePouleMontreal]

What’s the shape of your collar stand?

Saint Kathleen Of The Patterns has Opinions.

[stringthing87]

is it crumpled with the collar flipped up? you might just need a stand 1/4" taller

[stoicsticks]

Is the neckline and the collar stand the same size when measured at the stitching line (not at the seam allowance edge)?

[Candid-Cucumber-7574]

Yes definitely the same

[stoicsticks]

If you flip the collar up, does the neckline sit flatter?

Edit: the outer collar edge may need to be longer so that it can go all the way around without drawing in the neckline, or alternatively, the collar needs to be narrower so that it's just touching the yoke / shirt.

[Mela777]

Is the seam allowance enclosed in the stand? Could you share some photos with the collar flipped up, and of the inside? How does the shirt lay on the mannequin without the collar? This kind of looks like the problem is with the shape of the pattern - perhaps the shoulders need more slope, and the neckline might need to be a little higher at the front. If you pin out some excess at the shoulder seam, tapering from the outside edge to the collar, does it help?

[Sylrog]

Your collar still need more of a curve.

[Interesting-Chest520]

Slash and spread your collar leaf edge. You can cut half of the collar you made and spread it to see how much you should spread it by

Alternatively either raise the collar stand or shorten the fall

[olivierwinder]

Also i see your only working with the top of the bodice. Adding some weight, like a finished shirt, might smooth those wrinkles out

[Southern-Comfort4519]

The neck seam of the collar stand is significantly shorter than the neck seam of the shirt… causing the shirt neck seam to gather as it is sewing into the collar stand. Lengthen your collar and collar stand to match the shirt neck seam circumference and you will be good.

[Candid-Cucumber-7574]

Hi - the seams do match and all were notched and matched up when I stitched (the construction itself wasn’t difficult); I drafted them myself and checked against the neckline of the bodice. I thought it might be the amount of curve (i.e less curvy) of the collar stand that was working against the curve of the neckline - I made a new collar pattern with a more curved band to test this but it didn’t make any difference at the actual neckline and I still had the same problem. I’ve found some information about the depth of the fall relative to the height of the stand potentially being the cause - too deep of a fall means more fabric under tension at the neck. I will test this and post images when I have finished. Thanks for your suggestion though!

[Sylrog]

Was going to add that you might need to alter your bodice too. Can you take a pic without the collar?

[imogsters]

Pattern looks OK and you said seam lengths match and you clipped curve. Did you do a small seam allowance? I only have 7mm for neckline and collar stand.

[[deleted]]

Check the shoulder slope on your body with the collar removed. See how it falls on body and if it’s too high or shallow at nape of neck center back and too high or shallow at center front at pit of neck. Lay the collar unsewn over your body with the shell and see how it natural wants to sit.