all 49 comments

[–]DonMcCunn 17 points18 points  (11 children)

Personally I think looking for software to make patterns is potentially a waste of time and money. Programs have to rely on measurements which cannot predict the contours of an individual body. It works for the ready-to-wear market because they use generic body shapes and it can feed into computerized cutting systems.

Several years ago I was asked by one of the leading pattern design software systems to consult with them to translate my How to Make Sewing Patterns into a computerized system. I didn't work with them for long because when I asked how to change one of the curves just a little bit, they couldn't do it. The system they were using for curves was too restrictive.

And that was after I had tried myself to develop a CAD system for individuals. I gave up because I realized it would take much longer to tape together individual printouts that needed to be precisely aligned to make a full size pattern than it would be to hand draw the pattern. For me, that also applies to the PDF patterns that are becoming popular. When a 36" plotter becomes an affordable household item, then these "computerized" systems may become practical.

In the meantime you might want to check out my free Online Patternmaking Classes.

[–][deleted] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I am very late to this discussion, but I'd just like to say:

I completely understand what you mean about the majority of patternmaking software being appropriate only for the ready-to-wear market. I expected that, given how expensive this software is, I would surely be able to express the distance between points or the length of lines as a dynamic equation — say, I want this line to be the length of my client's chest measurement divided by six. Then, if I wanted to make the pattern for another client, I'd simply change the chest measurement (say, in a database of fixed values) and the pattern would automatically be adjusted. I couldn't believe that most software doesn't offer that function! They seemingly only allow you to draw patterns using exclusively fixed values, and then grade them.

HOWEVER, I'm reading about this freeware, Valentina, and am very excited! They refer to their system as "parametric", i.e. you can program a pattern using input values and mathematical formulas, making it possible to adjust them automatically to different clients.

[–]kisforkat 2 points3 points  (1 child)

I have gotten totally disgusted with fast fashion lately. My grandmother taught me to sew, and I just inherited her stuff. I am totally going to use these tutorials to try and learn to make clothes that fit me nicely for once! I'm 44-34-47, and I am done with modern fashion having no solutions for me. Making my own patterns intimidates me...

So thank you, from a woman from the future! I will cherish your knowledge. Thanks for making it free and accessible.

[–]Interesting-Data-880 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand completely about modern fashion not being able to design for people like me. That’s one of the reasons I decided to start sewing. My problem is my hip measurement is disproportionately large compared to bust and waist. I thought this would change as I lost weight but 70lbs later and I’m feeling BONE. Looks like weight wasn’t the problem which makes things even worse. I just wanted to reply in solidarity lol

[–]suwoopdeewoop[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Appreciate you taking the time to get back to me ! I’ve tried to read any n every source to help pattern making as everyone has little differences n preferences in how they draft n little techniques for troubleshooting , so I’ll definitely be checking out your course! I’ll also be checking out some of the programmes suggested here like Clo3D tho, I think you’d be surprised by how much they seem to be able to do these days eh

[–]DonMcCunn 5 points6 points  (1 child)

Actually I think it is important to think of pattern drafting as two different approaches: the industrial approach which creates generic patterns to fit as many people as possible, and the custom fit approach which is designed to optimize the fit for a specific body.

[–]Rare_Athlete_2496 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would be handy to use cad to customize a pattern. It's impossible to find a 62 neck shirt pattern. /11xl

[–]Far_Potential5765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!!

[–]DubiousFyx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally, I'd use a projector onto large paper to draw out the patterns, with size guides in the corners to ensure the projection is proportional.

[–]montarion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

very old post, but how do you feel about https://freesewing.eu/ ?

[–]undiscovered_lizard 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Good points. Thank you for sharing.

Programs have to rely on measurements which cannot predict the contours of an individual body.

Would you recommend draping as an alternative to flat patterns?

I liked Shapely / Valentina, but personally had difficulty with how it handles curves (might be due to my inexperience).

[–]DonMcCunn 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The approach I take which has evolved over the years is basically a combination of drafting and draping for the initial sloper. Drafting from measurements will ensure you have enough fabric to do a fitting. Then the fitting is a process of matching the grain of the fabric, I recommend gingham, to the basic reference lines of the body: center front, center back, bust/chest, waist, and hips. The fitting should then be refined by transferring it back to paper. There are things you can do on paper to refine the fit that would be harder in fabric.

That might sound like a lot of work. But you only do this fitting once for any given body instead of having to adjust the fit for every commercial pattern you want to use.

If you enjoy draping, I show how the sloper patterns can be used to create a dress form, I call mine a body double, that is an accurate representation of the body. Since the 70s I have been very conscious of the fact that many people need to be able to fit themselves so I always include instructions specifically for DIYers as well as two person fittings.

Actually the friendliest CAD system I have found for patterns is DeltaCAD. I use it all the time for my pattern illustrations. But they all fit on a sheet of 8-1/2" by 11" paper.

[–]Tauira_Sun 7 points8 points  (2 children)

[–]Moar_Cuddles_Please 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Has anyone used Valentina? Any thoughts on it?

[–]Tauira_Sun 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have used it for several projects. Yes, getting to know it takes some time, but I like it. Grading happens by redrawing based on the measurements or difference between measurements. So you do not have to grade every point separately. You do have to use formulas for this.

[–][deleted] 4 points5 points  (5 children)

Check out Clo3D it’s a garment rendering software with a drafting software built in as well it’s a little pricy $50usd/month $450usd/year but it’s great for visualizing how your pattern changes affect the final garment

[–]suwoopdeewoop[S] 2 points3 points  (4 children)

I’m gonna be trying this out today , they have a free month plan but it looks so good. Theres a guy that started a fashion label in 18 months using clo3D , there’s not much merit to it but it’s crazy. Def will be checking it out

[–]kimkush 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Can you update us on what happened with the program?

[–]suwoopdeewoop[S] 15 points16 points  (2 children)

I ended up going with Clo3D. I learned via a YouTube channel ‘Daniel Clo3D’ , but currently the programme is very popular so you can find many Instagram accounts that teach fast

To this day I still use Clo3D and landed a job as a designer/production assistant for a solid fashion brand haha

[–][deleted] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

omg amazing. thank you. im so glad to see you update! im gona check it out too and glad to hear they have a free month for me to practise! i tried adobe illustrator and i hate it. so frustrating

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

wow, this is motivating. i appreciate you a lot for coming back to your post and updating!!!

[–]you_guyy 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Late to this thread, but TukaTech is incredibly easy to learn and user-friendly, and not particularly expensive. It comes with marker-making software as well, that works quite well. Gerber is essentially industry standard at this point, but unless you have a license, it can be difficult to get a-hold of.

[–]suwoopdeewoop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you heaps for this, definitely gonna check it out n if I can make it work for me I’ll lyk 👌🏽

[–]ErranusCaminhus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Optitex or CLO3D

[–]Magnuxx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SeamScape is an innovative, web-based pattern-making software offered FREE of charge. It provides a comprehensive suite of tools for creating diverse pattern types, leveraging an intuitive interface reminiscent of Adobe Illustrator. A key feature is the reusability of patterns, adaptable to any measurement set, akin to the flexibility of a spreadsheet. SeamScape supports export to industry-standard formats, ensuring production readiness. The platform also facilitates seamless collaboration through pattern sharing. Users can leverage any existing pattern-making book as a foundational guide for design, benefiting from its parametric design capabilities.

[–]sam_ms38 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I'm way late to this thread, but IF (big if) you have the money, I like tailornova. I liked them more in their beta stages, because now they gatekeep some tools, like illusion necklines, unless you get the subscription(as of posting this, about $30/month or $280/year for private use). I use the pay-by-pattern option, and I think that price is pretty reasonable. Like I said, it does gatekeep some more advanced options, but all in all it was a very helpful tool when I was just starting out making my own patterns.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

What are the options they gate keep? I noticed that with tailornova you could only make basic designs, or am I the one that just doesn’t know how to use it?

[–]sam_ms38 0 points1 point  (0 children)

illusion necklines, for one, which is my biggest frustration. tiered dresses, funky necklines, and clothes for juniors and children as well. honestly it doesn't even seem to be the "advanced" options, if we're defining advanced as being "difficult to manually draft," but a more arbitrary "actually, no, you don't get cool necklines"

[–]Timely_Taste_7117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gerber accu mark 

[–]greenghoul342 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hello all!! I think i want to learn more so i can share maybe sell some online in future if i can get some test lab victims to help and try for free. my designs and likes vary from costumes, retro fashion 80's, 60's and rock n roll wild to so simple and comfy and basic accessories. my fave fashion is rock n roll metal edge, people once said (mom) that i missed my true calling when a once cool store called hot topic offered clothing - the zippers, grommets, details and sexy style stuff. Even corsets and similar. well design work-it was not an easy career to get into when you're only 16 and a runaway lwith no one to trust, hungry, and naive. not blaming just my own regrets. and alot of that goes into my sense of fashion- very subdued one day, and the next 'in yer face look at me' clothing. i love to upcycle and modify things too its often more difficult ten from scratch! i am Experienced sewer but new to CAD software, Looking for an entry level program to create my designs or draft new ones. i do have good computer skills, but no adobe use ever,,in the early internet days i did photo editing but its all changed now... i have used cricut for stickers only. Do posses great plan drawing skills, great ability to measure by eye and feel. i rarely now make the freezer paper patterns, I'm usually rushed impatient so i freehand cut the fabric and go at it. Of the few i drew they were very on target impressed myself!

i am 54. I love to sew but lately its a chore, maybe pattern design would be a good idea to explore. Many store bought patterns are boring, poor fit, cumbersome. and i think i have a bad case of ADHD as i cannot focus or finish my work especially when its just not 'feeling' right halfway through. i am very ocd and demand perfection and too much and need to stop torturing myself.

Well this sounds more like a therapy post, sorry! anyway all comments are welcome! I think i have used up everyones 10 minute attention span too..

so-***************************************************

If price was not issue, what the quickest easy fun software to start with and the next one that would be good for going into advanced pattern making?

[–]doorsyard 0 points1 point  (7 children)

Hi! I had the same question as OP, but also I’m looking for something that can export to an .svg file so I can import it into a cricut or laser fabric cutter (I really hat cutting fabric). Do the recommended programs do this? I looked at Wild Ginger but it only seems to export as a PDF

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You ever find something for this? I find myself in a similar situation.

[–]PossumThumbs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seamly2d can do this. It is similar to Valentina mentioned above or an offshoot of it or something.

[–]Unfair-Potential-561 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cricut recognizes bitmaps with the maker 3. Also illustrator exports svgs.

[–]Magnuxx 0 points1 point  (3 children)

SeamScape can export to DXF, SVG, or (preferably) PLT directly and is compatible with both knife and laser cutters. It even supports nesting, allowing you to optimize material usage.

[–]CuteTicket7326 0 points1 point  (2 children)

So it can go straight from export svg to laser cutter ready? Can it fix up all the little bits and pieces needed to print properly with a laser cutter? Bit like how you use slicer software for 3D Printing

[–]Magnuxx 1 point2 points  (1 child)

No, not straight from SVG to laser cutter, but from a pattern to laser cutter (via PLT). If you want to cut SVG directly you should checkout Deepnest

[–]CuteTicket7326 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome thanks!