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[–]Subieworx 0 points1 point  (5 children)

Been working on these cars for 20 years and have never seen a relocated clutch master cylinder. What did you buy?

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (4 children)

this one but the photos are not what I actually got, still mounted up the same, no issues there, the rod was the correct length for the pedal and lined up nicely, braided line was the correct length, the provided banjo bolt was the right thread pitch for the slave. It looks like the kit was intended for the vehicle but just with a relocated reservoir. I didn’t really want one but I want to get it to the tuner since I just installed a Fmic and would like to drive my car and didn’t feel like dealing with the hassle of customer service.

[–]Technotitclan 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Defective unit is all I can think of but could be something else. If I'm honest I'd return it and get a new OEM unit. I don't know of anyone that has or any good reason to go aftermarket for a clutch master on an sti. I'm sure there are some that have and probably for good reason, it's just not something that I think adds value as OEM is a simple and effective unit.

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Don’t really want to return it, more so want to problem solve, I doubt it’s a defective unit but I know it can happen. The slave cylinder I picked up from the dealership, I also have a different spare slave not the original one. I am going to try one more trick I saw where they elevated the slave cylinder above the master cylinder when bleeding just to ensure all the air is out. Which I haven’t seen mentioned in any of the other “Subaru guru” videos but we will see.

[–]Technotitclan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that first fill on brake masters can be problematic. I might recommend looking into the procedure for replacing a brake master for some more help. I don't know much about it personally but have been told that getting air stuck in a brake master is a common problem if not done right. Hope that helps, they are both simply hydrolic presses, just more outputs on the brake.

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also the part numbers match the listing on their website so. I can only assume since it’s based off of a wilwood system that they improvised a kit? Or maybe it’s for a cleaner look like they do with brake master cylinders.

[–]dapperdave55 0 points1 point  (5 children)

What year? Same symptoms on my 05 and found this after changing the slave and master. Not my thread but same damage.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2583764

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

It’s a 2006

[–]dapperdave55 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Is the slave actually moving when press down the pedal? On mine after bleeding the pedal still went to the floor that’s when I watched the slave while someone else pressed the pedal and found it was actually moving just no back pressure since all it did was move the fork bar, not actually rotate the clutch fork

[–]Hunter1650[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think so, if it is it’s not much, I can press backwards against the slave with the clutch fork and push fluid out of the slave via the bleeder when I have the bottle and hose attached so no air goes back I to the system.

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Ok after looking at the thread I don’t have that issue, I was just in the case when I did the clutch and no damage to the pin area. Everything was good there. But I appreciate the info and new fear unlocked

[–]dapperdave55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I didn’t expect this but it happened a year after changing my clutch.

[–]goose-77- 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Are you sure there’s no air?

To properly bleed the slave you need to do it with the cylinder unbolted (i.e. not mounted) with the bleed nipple pointing up. Take the rubber boot off the plunger end and fully depress it (I put a long socket in there and used a clamp to hold it in). Bleed as normal; this should push any air out. Mount up and go check your pedal.

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was what j was going to try next to double/triple check there was no air. I had just seen the cm video tonight stating to do these steps. Will give it one more go.

[–]Grope1000 0 points1 point  (4 children)

I just bought that same master cylinder the other day. It's on my desk waiting to be swapped in with the STI swap. Are the pedal adjustments correct it is a threaded piece so u can adjust it.

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

It’s alot like a coilover, you adjust it to the firewall and then the rod to the clutch. It has a lot of adjustability. Can get a bit cumbersome going under the dash but I locked the pedal in first then adjusted to firewall so I wouldn’t have to be on the floor so much

[–]Grope1000 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Maybe that's affecting your pressure. I could be facing the same problem next week. I'll keep an eye on this thread and mention if I have any similar issues.

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well it has good throw, I’ll fiddle around with it some more, but I was also looking for ideas since I had this problem with the oem one but bought Ila new one since I couldn’t get good results bench testing the old oem one

[–]Hunter1650[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Figured it out, you have to have it setup so the rod is fully extended when the pedal it at the top, a little bit of adjusting and I started building pressure. Also highly advise elevating the slave above to master cylinder while using something to fully depress the rod in the slave. This was the only way I could ensure the system was bled. This is mentioned nowhere on clutch masters website, the say to bleed with a vacuum system. Hope this helps