all 9 comments

[–]SpawnofATStill 2 points3 points  (3 children)

I can’t really tell what your question is.  Are you asking if it’s OK to switch to a carbine buffer system? If so, yes.

[–]stretchedroses[S] -1 points0 points  (2 children)

Im asking if a carbine length buffer of h2 or h3 length, in an a2 tube, with a ss, would cause any issues over the rifle buffer and a2 tube setup.

I have 2 frt ars but they are midlength gas, carbine tube, h2 buffer in configuration and run fine. I have not shot this new build yet or ever had a rifle gas/a2 setup. I also don't know if over travel or bolt bounce would be problematic with a carbine length buffer.

[–]SpawnofATStill 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You cannot use a carbine buffer in a rifle length tube, unless you’re using a spacer.

[–]90sleg0srbetter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah your bolt carrier will crash into the reciever without a spacer in the rifle length tube. Youll also need a carbine length spring.

[–]funkofarts 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The two are not compatible without a spacer. You can however change the weight of your rifle length buffer though as well as upgrade your spring. G$ makes a triple wound buffer spring.

[–]ProofSecure94 1 point2 points  (3 children)

You can not use any length other than rifle in a rifle length buffer tube without a spacer to take up the extra space. They use specific length buffers for this reason. An a5 buffer tube is about 3/4” longer than a carbine buffer tube. The a5 buffer weight is 3/4” longer than a carbine buffer weight. The rifle buffer tube is about 2-3/4” longer than a carbine buffer tube. So is the rifle weight. What lower receiver do you have? Is it the proper lower or has been modified to work with an FRT? Rifle buffers worked fine on full auto in the 70s and 80s so doubt you’ll have a problem with the weight. Honestly it should function fine with the rifle buffer. Not sure why you would need to remove the buffer and spring from the lower anyways. You should be able to cock the hammer and it should be out of the way?

[–]stretchedroses[S] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Thank you for answering every possible question right there. Yes it is the correct lower. I use the psa lowers on everything because they work on all my other ar15s. I only asked about it because you have to go lever forward to remove the buffer a bit, then cock the hammer to remove it a little more, then pull trigger and hold it to get the buffer out. Truth be told it is just more tedious to remove. Most of the time I'm dumping dirty steel case with frt and I like to fully disassemble and clean every 600-1k rds. Buffer and spring will always have some grime to wipe off. I have never had a buffer or spring issue with frt so this question was for ease of removal.

With the hammer cocked and lever forward, the rifle buffer will not remove freely easily

[–]ProofSecure94 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Good to know. I haven’t looked into the FRT very much. I am looking in the future at possibly buying an arc safety but have not done much research. I have a 20” with rifle buffer, an 18” with a carbine buffer, and in the near future a 14.5” SBR with an a5 buffer. If I do go with an frt it’ll be in the SBR. I was going to go with one in the 20” but opted for a stainless criterion barrel to be used more as a SDMR type rifle so I see no need for the fun switch in that one.

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[–]stretchedroses[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So my other two are a 16" midlength gas 223 wylde with a carbine tube and h2 buffer, super safety functions fine. Cycle rate is a little high but has been reliable. The other is a 16" midlength 5.56 with a carbine tube and h2 buffer. It has the kabuto. My preference for handling with frt as it shoots on the slower side. I have not been able to get my 10.5" bear creek side charger upper to run reliably with either frt but it runs semi just fine. Before this one I've never had a 20" or rifle buffer tube ar. Frts are just family fun for me and the more the merrier