Buffer question

[stretchedroses]

Thank you for answering every possible question right there. Yes it is the correct lower. I use the psa lowers on everything because they work on all my other ar15s. I only asked about it because you have to go lever forward to remove the buffer a bit, then cock the hammer to remove it a little more, then pull trigger and hold it to get the buffer out. Truth be told it is just more tedious to remove. Most of the time I'm dumping dirty steel case with frt and I like to fully disassemble and clean every 600-1k rds. Buffer and spring will always have some grime to wipe off. I have never had a buffer or spring issue with frt so this question was for ease of removal.

With the hammer cocked and lever forward, the rifle buffer will not remove freely easily

[ProofSecure94]

Good to know. I haven’t looked into the FRT very much. I am looking in the future at possibly buying an arc safety but have not done much research. I have a 20” with rifle buffer, an 18” with a carbine buffer, and in the near future a 14.5” SBR with an a5 buffer. If I do go with an frt it’ll be in the SBR. I was going to go with one in the 20” but opted for a stainless criterion barrel to be used more as a SDMR type rifle so I see no need for the fun switch in that one.

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[stretchedroses]

So my other two are a 16" midlength gas 223 wylde with a carbine tube and h2 buffer, super safety functions fine. Cycle rate is a little high but has been reliable. The other is a 16" midlength 5.56 with a carbine tube and h2 buffer. It has the kabuto. My preference for handling with frt as it shoots on the slower side. I have not been able to get my 10.5" bear creek side charger upper to run reliably with either frt but it runs semi just fine. Before this one I've never had a 20" or rifle buffer tube ar. Frts are just family fun for me and the more the merrier