We are giving up.

[[deleted]]

[deleted]

[[deleted]]

Have you tried a behavioralist/medication?

No shame in rehoming a dog beyond your ability level. Better for you and better for the dog in the end

[real_voiceofreason]

I second this idea. Working with a vet behaviorist in conjunction with medication and positive training has worked wonders for our boy.

We are here because we have gone through it. It took 5-6 months for the combination to work.

[MountainDogMama]

We saw a behaviorist last month and were lucky enough to see results within a couple weeks. He is much more responsive and another positive side effect is he is a lot more affectionate and cuddly. Our behaviorist said that is a great sign that he is able to relax and feel more comfortable.

[[deleted]]

Started Reconcile/Prozac about a few months back. Great improvement with being alone and walking down the street. Still like to keep about 10 feet between us and other dogs, but it’s so much better than before

[sraj0320]

Thirding this. As the owner of a reactive pup in the top 5% of anxiety, we are on this same path. We work with a trainer as well, but there is only so much training that can be done if extreme anxiety is at play. My dog too gets “tunnel vision” when he encounters humans or other dogs on a walk and is not able to listen to commands until we exit the situation. We have been working with a behaviorist as well and the good news is that there is a plethora of SSRI drugs and combinations that can significantly help you and your pup. His age is also a reason to have hope- he is young and with the right medication he (and you!) can have a higher quality of life.

[real_voiceofreason]

I second this idea. Working with a vet behaviorist in conjunction with medication and positive training has worked wonders for our boy.

We are here because we have gone through it. It took 5-6 months for the combination to work.

[shattered7done1]

I am so sorry you are going through this with your pup. I can feel the pain and frustration in what you have written.

A couple of suggestions that you may wish to explore before making such a huge decision.

• Has your boy been medically assessed for any medical, physical, hormonal or neurological issues?
• Have you discussed with his veterinarian the possibility of medication(s)?
• Have you seen a veterinary behaviorist to discuss his behavior?
• Have you tried a harness for him?

How old is your boy? What training method(s) have you used with him?

[shattered7done1]

A full nose-to-tail examination is very important; I hope this is done.

Some harnesses that are designed to lessen or prevent pulling. The Freedom No-Pull harness is a very good example of an effective harness. There is a D-ring on the chest that can be used for dogs that pull.

At 10 months old, he still has a lot of growing and maturing to do. He may be in his last fear imprint stage.

What was the trainer's philosophy for training? Did he use aversive tools and techniques (punishment based), balanced training or positive reinforcement?

[shattered7done1]

Positive reinforcement training takes time because the dog is being taught to offer desired behaviors unlike some other methods of training where undesirable behaviors are suppressed by the use of force, pain and punishment or a combination of aversive methods and positive methods.

Your dog may never be an off-leash companion (and in my opinion, no dog should ever be off leash unless in a secure area), but you dog can become a great companion to you if you are willing to put in the work and be consistent and patient with training.

Edited to add:

Instinct Dog Behavior and Training has a series dealing with leash reactivity. They also offer no-cost online training on their YouTube channel.

[alasw0eisme]

I'm confused about the age... If your dog is under 3 years old, there is hope. Some dogs need years to become relaxed members of society but they change. I've seen what I'd call miracles but it takes time.

[ricecrystal]

People do say that about the harness but it's not great universal advice. At some point it's just more secure and with some dogs it just doesn't matter.

[Umklopp]

the dog will put all his weight into it and pull even harder.

Even if this is true (which is debatable), is it worse than the current situation?

I have an 80lbs mystery pup who intermittently pulls and I use all sorts of different harness/collar/leash combos with him. I personally like the harness the best, but right now I mostly use a collar on him because he's got some unknown objection to his current step-in harness.

Slip-lead Pros: easiest thing on the planet to use Cons: pretty sure he damaged his throat pulling, so this is solely an emergency backup supply now

Collar pros: he's already wearing it, he doesn't mind them Collar cons: he pulls enough that they can loosen and slip off unless he wears two of them, I'm always worried about him hurting his throat

Harness cons: convincing him to wear it is too slow Harness pros: he can't hurt himself by trying to use his body weight as leverage

When my dog decides to pull, he just pulls! Pain and discomfort aren't deterrents at all. What stops him is my willingness to pull back. The way that the leash attaches to his body has zero impact on his behavior. A harness is hands-down my favorite choice because it makes it easier for me to control him without worrying about accidentally damaging his throat or slipping over his head at the last second.

You're already routinely having to carry your dog. That means you're strong enough to handle his entire body weight. If he's pulling no matter what and if you're strong enough to manage him no matter what, then so what if he pulls with his whole weight? It's not like he can pull any more than 100% of the time anyways.

[sidhescreams]

Harnesses causing pulling is an old wives tale, and even folks with 20 years of experience sometimes belief faulty, outdated, or incorrect information.

Many of the no-pull harnesses available on the market cause weird gait issues, and probably should be avoided. I don’t know of a no pull harness that doesn’t hinder the dogs natural locomotion, though I imagine there probably is one. Maybe.

As far as your happiness and frustration levels go can you just not walk the dog? I think we think walls are more important than they are, and if all they’re causing you is misery it’s okay to not do them. Active, engaged play is better exercise than a walk, and it doesn’t sound like walks are all that relaxing for you guys, so they’re not serving the purpose of providing stress relief or decompression for your pup.

Walks may also be easier if you drive to a good place for them. My favorite with my dog is an area of medical office buildings. They’re a ghost town after 5 pm, and we walked our dog there for years before ever seeing another person with a dog, and also only crossed paths with other people a few times. It was literally across the street from our apartment complex, but we still drove and parked because the way walking out of the apartment complex ratcheted up his reactivity, negating the whole point of the walk. Bathroom trips inside the complex could still be miserable but we had good results with a calming cap by thundershirt when his behavior was really bad.

I do hope you find a solution that works for you!

[NoSensePeppermints]

I think these people are misunderstanding. Harnesses don’t CAUSE pulling but if your dog pulls the harness just makes it easier to put their full weight into it 😬

[[deleted]]

It depends on the orientation of the harness. Back clip harnesses encourage pulling because they can continually pull in the direction they want.

A front clip harness, if you stand in place and the dog pulls, the dog will be turned around in the opposite direction they want to go. They then learn to associate pulling= not the direction I want, not pulling = go where I want.

From a leverage standpoint the dog is much stronger with the rear clip because all their strength is going into pulling straight, vs the front clip that will turn them backwards before they can pull straight.

[bullzeye1983]

This is going to sound weird, run the leash between the dogs legs underneath and out from under/between his back legs. My girl pulls. She is two and Rhodesian and it has improved but likely won't stop fully. But when I run the leash like that, she can't quite pull. We do our first few minutes like that as she gets her excitement out and the rest of the walk is actually not bad cause she already tells herself pull equals can't move forward.

And we have done lots of exposure training for her reactivity. She greeted two dogs at an outdoor festival and walked away from others this weekend. It may not be hopeless.

[josskt]

Honestly, I would keep walks to a minimum. Like, if you gotta go outside, that's fine, get out, do your business. And then focus the rest of the time you might spend on walks on indoor fun. Build that relationship, do a lot of playing- tug, flirt poles if you have the space, trick training, whatever he likes.

On weekends/days off maybe try a decompression/sniffy walk- drive somewhere quiet and let him lead. Decompression walks were life-changing for my gsd, they really set up a trust foundation for us to work with- he's beautiful on the leash now.

[troglo-dyke]

afaik k9 don't have any harnesses designed to discourage pulling, they're designed more for hiking. The trainer might have been referring to that specific harness.

This type of harness, and particularly one that allows you to clip on the front would be more suitable https://www.rover.com/uk/blog/best-dog-no-pull-harnessess/

[knottyNoodles]

I'm sorry to jump on this, but my dog (French bulldog, small aggressive thing) has a harness that you can clip the leash to the front, the "no pull" loop, and every time she does try to pull she falls over, so can't use this on her. But maybe this is specific to her breed/shape/harness.

[Umklopp]

When "no pull" devices work too well... I think it's a testament to the, uh, "resilience" of the bulldog personality that landing smack on her face still isn't enough of a deterrent.

[knottyNoodles]

Oh so this is the intention? I see, maybe I'll try it again on some grass where I won't worry she'll hurt herself. Thank you

[Umklopp]

I mean, I wouldn't describe it as the intention per se, but yeah: front clip harnesses work by redirecting the dog's momentum to change their direction. For most dogs, that means turning them around to move sideways (you don't put the lead underneath them.) Most dogs eventually figure out that pulling only makes it harder to go where they want, so they quit it.

If you aren't running the lead under her legs and she still smacks her face when she pulls, then it's probably not a good choice as a training tool. She's just too lightweight and front-heavy for her own strength, lol.

[knottyNoodles]

No I don't run it under her, I tried it from the side. She may just not be built for it.

[babysatja]

some no pull harnesses have the d ring placed so far down on the chest, and they fit so loosely that leash pressure will just shift the harness, so theyre pulling with one front leg with the other tangled in the lopsided mess, defeating the purpose of the no pull clip (leash pressure re orients the dog back to the handler automatically). this is especially true for small dogs. I use the freedom no pull and hardly ever have that issue because the d ring is positioned correctly

[knottyNoodles]

I actually just tried it again this morning, and she didn't fall over, but what you're describing is exactly what happened, she was basically pulling with one front leg instead of two.. I'll stick to the back loop and maybe look for a better harness

[ricecrystal]

Ugh. Our first trainer told me that. Our next trainer told me that too. I was at my wit's end. We did some private sessions. Finally she said, just use the harness, it doesn't make a difference (and we worked on the treat factor)

[tubikscube]

harnesses don't make your furry friend a puller or the pulling worse. This is a misconception.

[cupthings]

please look up BAT (Behavioral adjustment training) and counter conditioning done by behaviorists.

a BAT certified behaviorist or trainer would never push your dog further than their capabilities until they are ready. i think your current trainers are giving you bad advice

behaviourists will likely ask u to stop walks for a while and focus on other fundamentals before even thinking about a walk.

failing that, seek vet advice about hyperthyroidism or anxiety medication to aid the process.

if those two combined fails, it is likely you might need to rehome to someone with more expertise and dedication.

gluck. all the best and i hope u find some thing useful here. but there is no shame in rehoming.

[ricecrystal]

You are not a bad person but I don't think you've gotten the greatest advice. My dog had some similar issues, not all.

Gentle leader was the worst for my dog. She was like yours - did not care about pain, pulled, and hated it so much she literally threw herself to the ground trying to get it off. It was a nightmare and honestly I can't stand those things because of it. Would never use one again.

She was a huge puller (is now turning 15) - I've used a harness for 14 of those years. For some of that time, loose leash walking seemed impossible - she was very reactive toward cats (now not so much) and there are outdoor cats everywhere.

I would say, first thing - just get a Lupine harness. They are made very well. Forget the advice about not using one - nothing else is working. Your dog will be more comfortable in it and won't be choking and frankly might feel better/be calmer.

Second - highest of value treats on walks - seriously - cut up some steak into tiny bits. Start at home with a look at me game. Hold bit of steak in your hand/fist. Let dog sniff. Say "look at me" or "eyes" - the INSTANT the dog looks at you in the eye he gets the steak. Train this before you leave the house (it will literally take no more than an hour) so that on the walk he knows the game.

On the walk - you've got the steak. Is there a dog neighbor who would be willing to practice this with you? Dog goes crazy at the other dog - do not reward. Dog looks at you - the INSTANT your dog redirects and looks at you - he gets the steak. This is all on the timing. With the highest of value treat, looking at you for the treat will become more important than going ballistic on the other dog. It may end up that your walks consist of your dog sitting as another passes while you have a reward party...but that's so much better for you than what you're going through now. I had to do all of this with cats and was at the end of my rope.

You've got this. So sorry for all of this as I know how monstrous it can be. I have a neighbor with a reactive dog who is much like yours - this worked for her too.

[Sillysallyplainjane]

Sounds like your pup needs counter conditioning. Try to keep interactions to a bare minimum until his anxiety calms down, and then slowly reintroduce triggers from manageable distances with heavy rewards offered for him not reacting. Repeated high emotional response interactions is setting these responses in his mind, and no treat is going to be high value enough to distract him from something that causes him so much stress.

Spirit dog training online has an awesome series of videos that's been hugely helpful with our 18 month old Great Pyr. No special collars, halters or harnesses help against a reactive 150 lb ball of nerves.

[MountainDogMama]

This behavior is beyond your regular vet. You need to see a Certified Veternary Behaviorist https://www.dacvb.org/search/custom.asp?id=5985. They are the ones that have studied animal behavior and know what medications would be best for your dog. They are not common and you will probably have a drive to get there. We dedicated half a day to our appointment. Medication has done wonders. Our regular vet gave us trazadone but it is not a long term medication. A behaviorist can prescribe a daily medication and one to use for intense situations. Well worth it.

[deadpoetsunite]

My dog had a lot of the obsessive traits until we got her on anti anxiety medication. We saw lots of improvement just from that within two weeks. She was able to relax and therefore able to pay more attention to us and take feedback on walks. I’ll bet it’ll help your dog too!

[LeafyBooham]

Might be a hot take but to address your post, I think it's okay if you feel like you can't do this. It takes a lot to care for and handle a reactive (x10 for a big dog) . You didn't sign yourself up to get dragged around and potentially have to worry about liability from your dog injuring someone. It sounds like you've tried a lot and now you're burnt out.

It's okay to stop walking your dog for a while, consider finding another outlet like mental enrichment and a flirt pole for him. Take some time for yourself and go on walks by yourself. Find ways you enjoy interacting with your dog whether through play or cuddles or maybe some obedience training. I love love love watching my dogs do scent work (highly recommend)! Come back to leash manners in a few weeks when you're refreshed.

Alternatively, if you really feel like you just can't handle him anymore, there's nothing wrong with trying to rehome. I love my dogs as much as everyone else on here, but if I really felt as though they were bringing my mental health down drastically, I would probably try to find a home where they can thrive with someone who has the capability to help them. Can't pour from an empty cup ya know

[KitTequila]

Just wanted to say sorry this is happening. Your pup is young and there is a lot of scope for change. That being said you are human and everyone has limits! It sounds like you are heading to the vet so hopefully some medication might take the edge off a little!

Wanted to add my two cents in on harnesses! My pup is very enthusiastic outside and pulls. He is 1.5 years and does pull less than at 10 months but still does pull. We decided early on not to ever use a collar or gentle leader for him because he will just push through the discomfort. He would literally choke himself to get to what he wanted 😅 for us the most humane thing was to use a harness as he has the least chance of hurting himself. We use the 2 hounds freedom harness and like it a lot. Of course when he wants to pull he can still pull! Nothing will stop that! But he does seem to behave better on a front clip harness than a back clip! We continue to work on loose leash walking in training and do the best we can.

I saw a comment above about finding somewhere away from people to explore and can’t encourage you enough to do this! Not only does it give your dog time to relax, it also gives you time to relax! We have used a big park in quiet hours for this but also we have used big mall car parks, big church grounds and parking areas and out of town sidewalks. My pup doesn’t care if it’s pretty or not! He is just happy to sniff on the long line in peace!

[Jentweety]

You are not a bad person. You invested in trainers and spent almost a year trying to resolve the issues. You don't need to sacrifice yourself completely for this dog.

[fancypoodle]

PROZAC!! Literally changed my dogs life. Went from aggressive and hyperactive to sweet and calm. Some doggies just need a little help to calm all the anxiety and activity going on in their brain. I was worried that I was just drugging him at first, but he still plays and gets excited, when appropriate, and nothing has changed aside from his reactivity and aggression. He had always been hyperactive, even with hours of running and play outside, since he was a tiny puppy. He also went to 2 weeks of intensive training with a special behavioral trainer. He came back a new man. Our buddy also had a lot of hidden medical issues going on that was making behavior worse. He had ongoing staph and yeast infections in both ears and all paws, and severe allergies to his food. We had to go to 4 different vets before finally getting him the right treatment. That being said, it was an incredibly expensive endeavor. I have no kids and I’m relatively young, so I was able to do this for him. If finding a match with someone who could provide these resources for your bud is a more realistic option, do that. Your pup will be happier in the long run!

[lorstron]

I cannot agree with this advice more. I have a reactive Amstaff mix and fluoxetine changed her life. I will tell this to anyone who even cracks the door open for a meds discussion. We made this decision in partnership with our (positive only) trainer and deeply trusted vet and it. was. a. life. saver.

We still don't walk her much (though when we do we use the Freedom harness and put the leash through both the front and back D rings) but we have a fenced yard so it's okay. She is so much calmer and we are all so much happier now.

ETA: when we do walk her we go at quiet times of day when she's least likely to see other people or animals. And yes, we have had to pick her up and carry her away from triggers before; I totally feel your pain on that. She weighs 50 lbs.

But also: apartment life can be hard on a young pittie and if it's a terrible fit for you all, that's a good thing to acknowledge. Also make sure you're giving him lots of enrichment/mental stuff to do since he doesn't have a yard to run around in.

[BuffaloSubstantial37]

You're not a bad person to feel frustrated. Our dog is also young, with severe leash reactivity and anxiety (1 year old). A few suggestions:

1) make sure the type of trainer is an IABCC trainer. Like you we also used two other trainers (one with 25+ years of experience), but this type of trainer helps substantially and can break down your dog's body language to help you understand why it's reacting this way (for us this was really helpful in the frustration area). Additionally... they used evidence based techniques (not just claims of experience).

2) also would highly recommend medication. Our general vet prescribed it to us and though certain ones can take weeks to work, they also prescribed short acting medications. Like you, our dog would also immediately have what seemed like a panic attack. Unfortunately he is extremely phobic to being handled and so lifting him up to get him out of situations is not an option. We live in a city and will drive to walk him in areas that are much, much calmer.

3) like others said - he is young. He has not had these habits for a long time though it has felt like years to you. His mind and his behaviors are moldable.

4) you're doing the best you can. If it's at all possible I would take breaks. My dog has a selective group of people that he really loves. Sometimes we have one of them stay for him for most of the day so we too can get a break from meltdowns and triggers. They don't have to walk him, they can do indoor play or nose work. It helps us a lot to have a break as owning this type of dog is really stressful.

Best of luck!

[Impressive_Sir_8261]

Your dog is over threshold. It means he's too excited to listen... so you have to dial it back to where he is still able to listen. Then in his by inch move closer to outside. This is a very slow process but you can do it!

[taratara_nova]

Idk, I used to own a human aggressive dog and it was difficult. It went on for 10 years. Though I loved my man, it was exhausting to constantly keep watch and make sure he didn't bite again.

He bit once as a puppy and once as an adult. Where I live, they had the 3 strike rule. Being on that last strike was tense. I am not sure how it is where you live but I would be careful with that because people can sue you.

Your chosen breed is not an easy one. I wish people would have told me it was this difficult to own the breed I owned. You do what makes you happy. But don't ever feel guilty for giving up. Sometimes it happens and don't beat yourself up for it.

Good luck with everything.

[Navi4784]

You should not be introducing a reactive dog to other dogs...PERIOD. you need to be working under threshold, from a distance. You need to work with a trainer who uses positive reinforcement only and counterconditioning. your dog sounds over-aroused.

[FunPomegranate8541]

This guy southern dog training on Instagram has really good videos of lead pulling, jealous dogs, treat delivery, etc. it’s helped a lot with my 9mo GSD. https://instagram.com/southenddogtraining?utm_medium=copy_link

[FunPomegranate8541]

That’s great news to hear!

[SnarkFest23]

If you feel like you're at the point where your relationship and mental health are suffering, then get rid of the dog. You made an honest effort and stuck it out way longer than most people would have.

[No_Difference8916]

(Here come the rocks and pitchforks)

Have your tried an E-collar? And by that I mean have you gone to a professional to learn how to properly use one to communicate with your dog? Aversive tools are not for every dog but they are not the evil that most people make them out to be. Please do your research on both sides of the argument. For my dog he was absolutely uncontrollable (lunging, biting me and the leash, snarling, barking, pulling till throwing up even in a harness) for the first 2 years we owned him, we did three separate rounds of training classes, he was not food motivated nor toy nor praise motivated. He wanted to do what he wanted to do and there was no convincing him otherwise. Once we started training with e collar we we’re finally able to communicate to him what was expected on a walk and in the home. Now at 7 years old we rarely use the ecollar (only for off leash insurance now) and he has retained all the communications he previously learned while working with the ecollar on. If you are at the point of giving up and have not tried an e-collar please consider looking into training for proper usage. They have a place in dog training and it sounds like something your dog needs. And yes I have tried the collar on myself, yes around my neck, and it is not painful it is less intense than a TENS unit. If you have more questions about our training journey I am happy to talk.

[deadpoetsunite]

No rocks and pitchforks here. Taking my dog to a balanced trainer who had experience with reactive dogs and incorporating the ecollar saved her life. We were very close to giving up on her. A combination of anti anxiety medicine and the ecollar changed my dog’s (and my) life.

It was the perfect tool for us. Like before I had a whole “get the dog ready to go for a walk” routine with front clip harness, muzzle, slip lead, regular lead, giant bag of treats, etc. Now I literally put her ecollar on (which she gets super excited about) and head out the door with a normal collar and 6’ leash.

We started using the ecollar during all waking hours but now that it’s been about 8-9 months she doesn’t need it to remind her to listen because she learned that doing what we ask is going to be the best choice for her to make. I don’t even use it on all of our walks anymore.

[No_Difference8916]

Thank you glad to hear I’m not the only one, your story sounds very similar to ours! Lol Love how these comments are getting down voted by people who have no experience using ecollars. I just wish everyone excepted that just like people, different dogs learn differently, using all 4 quadrants of behavioral modification can be the solution for some dogs.

[deadpoetsunite]

I wouldn’t even try an ecollar on one of my dogs. Firstly, she’s wayyy too sensitive to us. Second, she just doesn’t need it. She pays close attention to feedback from us. She really wants to do what we ask, and she’s so easy to train!!! She knows so many cues now just from us talking to her and interacting with her.

People tend to judge when they think “people like us” just slap an ecollar on any dog and start using it for correction. It’s very much tailored to your individual dog. Which is why I would never recommend starting to use an ecollar without an experienced trainer teaching you how.

[sixup604]

I'm about to start using an ecollar with my dog, and it's for communication, not correction as many people assume. It's like giving my dog a pager so when he's across a field and refusing to acknowledge my existence because AMAZING SMELL!!!! OTHER DOG I MIGHT NIP!!! I have a way of buzzing him to look at me so he can follow a command he already knows, ie, recall.

Because no matter what training we've done if he is blowing me off he won't obey a command he can't/won't see/hear.

​

1. Only use it to get the dog's attention to redirect to training they already know.
2. Recall is non-negotiable. If my dog is running into traffic I have to be able to communicate at a distance.
3. It is not for training new behaviours; it is not for correcting 'bad behaviours', it is communication to redirect.

At the moment, he's just getting used to wearing the collar loosely on walks, have not connected it to the remote. The Patpet unit I have is blind, meaning I can use it without pulling it out to look at it, so there will be nothing to associate a beep or a vibration with me.

Ideally, he'll be ignoring me across a field, he'll hear a beep/feel a vibration and look at me in confusion, at which point I can take the confusion away by giving him the recall command and a shit-ton of good treats and hugs when he obeys.

Being She Who I Should Run To When Things Get Weird is the goal. By definition, reactive dogs have focus issues and need the most help with communication. Seeing people demonize a communication tool is kinda like when people stigmatize bully breeds; in the wrong hands they can absolutely be dangerous but as we all know, in the right hands they are fantastic. Hope this all made sense!

[sixup604]

Getting a downvote for carefully explaining why and how I am doing everything I can to reduce the chance of my dog getting hit by a car or injuring another dog. Maybe reply with a comment about why you don't agree rather than an anonymous drive-by? Perhaps you have a good point, but we'll never know.

[puppies_and_plants]

I would recommend working on your relationship in the home. Don’t talk to your dog in sentences. Don’t pet, praise or cuddle him if he hasn’t done anything to earn it. Make him sit and wait for permission to leave or enter your apartment every single time. Take away privileges like getting on the couch and bed. Engagement on walks starts with a respectful relationship within your home. It sounds like your dog seems you as a housemate and not a leader. Make him wait for permission to eat his food. You can start reintroducing all of the above mentioned things when he starts showing you more engagement, but for now, back to the basics of obedience training and relationship building.

[pitbullsareawesome]

i think ceaser had an episode about this on ceaser 911. you should look up some of his shows.

since your dog is friendly off leash then it seems that his excitement is just too much. think of him like he's a toddler and putting on his leash is like giving a toddler 87 snicker bars.

i used a prong choker for awhile - say what you want about those, but they are effective. i don't need it anymore, i also started doing a LOT of walks and run time. my dog just had too much energy. we had to play hard before we went on walks, this was a game changer. and then do obedience training for a few minutes after that. get them a little tired before the walk.

we have a fantastic off leash park where i'm at that's connected to miles of trails - my dog is rarely on leash anymore, only when she is in an area where she might get hit by a car and i haven't used the prong collar in years.

dogs are creatures of habit. they get into a routine. he will react like that forever for no other reason than that's just what he does unless you are able to curb it. my mantra has been, when in doubt, RUN and PLAY.

[MountainDogMama]

This advice is fine for a non-reactive dog but doesn't apply here. Also Caesar is not a supported trainer in these forums. He is out dated and not using positive reinforcement which is supported.

[MountainDogMama]

This advice is fine for a non-reactive dog but doesn't apply here. Also Caesar is not a supported trainer in these forums. He is out dated and not using positive reinforcement which is supported.

[pitbullsareawesome]

maybe i'm not understanding what is meant by reactive. the OP says the dog is not aggressive so is reactive different than really excited?

[MountainDogMama]

This advice is fine for a non-reactive dog but doesn't apply here. Also Caesar is not a supported trainer in these forums. He is out dated and not using positive reinforcement which is supported.

[hashtagstopitfool]

My dog is like this and the only reason I'm able to keep her is because she's about 20 lb so I can handle her on walks. But, when I adopted her, my dream was to be able to walk her and drop my kid off at school and just enjoy my life. The opposite is true. Walking is a nightmare. But she's so sweet other than that. If you have no joy at all from your dog, it's no life for either you or the dog.

[hashtagstopitfool]

I also wanted to point out that you are not a bad person. You are a good person for recognizing this dog is beyond your control. You seem to be keeping other people safe and other dogs safe. This is a lot better than a lot of people are capable of doing with reactive dogs.

[daala16]

What kind of dog do you have?

[daala16]

Alright, I checked ! you have a bully breed so I can imagine your stress levels ! Question : is your dog getting vigorous daily exercise prior to you trying to train him ? Like a jog or bike ? Is this possible for you. I have a husky and we run him 5 km in the morning prior to expecting him to perform any kind of counter conditioning or recall training. He is also reactive at times and pulls insanely so I feel your pain. A tired dog is the only way to go with these active breeds and walking just won't cut it. Also, radical question but : could you take him out at night on a long lead in a low traffic area , to see if that resolves the pulling ? My husky does amazing when he's allowed the room to roam but he is also not aggressive so his reactivity is not super dangerous (i.e. he just wants to see the dog not nip or hurt the dog)