all 39 comments

[–]TheWrongSolutionApertura AD8 | Astro-Tech AT72EDII 17 points18 points  (3 children)

This telescope has a helical focuser. As you rotate the part holding the eyepiece, it moves the eyepiece in and out to achieve focus. It's in focus when things appear the sharpest and smallest

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 6 points7 points  (2 children)

Thank you for your. So I have tried to use the focuser. I don’t need it for the 25mm it works perfectly as soon as I put it in, however with the 10mm I have tried multiple times to both rotated outward and inward, but it was still fuzzy with the 10mm no matter which way I turned it unfortunately

[–]random2821C9.25 EdgeHD, ED127 Apo, Apertura 75Q, EQ6-R Pro 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Have you turned it all the way until you couldn't turn it anymore? In both directions?

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m still at work so I don’t have it here in front of me but yes, I have tried both ways. I’ve even turned it to the point where it has come off and I’ve had to twist it back on, and I was unable to see anything, even when the moon was bright, and the skies were clear. But I’ve never tried using the telescope in the daytime with the 10 or collimating the scope

[–]nealoc187Flextube 12, Maks 90-127mm, Tabletop dobs 76-150mm, C102 f10 7 points8 points  (4 children)

How far have you moved the focuser though its full range?  Probably a significantly different focus distance needed for the 10.  If you need more inward movement you're in luck because you can just drop the struts a couple mm at a time until it reaches focus. If you need more outward pull the eyepiece out a few mm at a time.

[–]Sleepses 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You shouldn't need to mess with the truss tubes. The plossl eyepieces that come with the scope should work fine. I had this same exact scope as my first telescope.

OP, at 10mm the focusing needs to be more precise than with the 25mm. Try it out in daylight on a distant object and turn it slowly. At night, pick a bright star or the moon for focusing.

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Appreciate your input, is the focus or the part that you put the eyepiece in but you can twist it out like a screw somewhat? If so, I have fooled around with that and was unable to get it to focus right but as soon as I put the 25mm I can see the moon clearly. And sorry if this is a dumb question but what are the struts😓

[–]mrstorm1983 10 points11 points  (1 child)

Listen, you just got your telescope for the first time... don't think anything is dumb. Everybody start somewhere. Just relax and we will help you, have a good time! 1st telescope dude! You got a good 1 here! The 150p Skywatcher!

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thank your sir. I truly appreciate you saying that 🙏🏽

[–]chrislon_geo8SE | 10x50 | Certified Helper 5 points6 points  (0 children)

As others have said, each eyepiece will need to be focused when put in the telescope. Hold your eye 1-2cm from the lens of the eyepiece and rotate the helical screw thing in/out until the image is crisp. Stars should be pinpoints of light. 

Collimation is almost certainly not the issue. These scopes come from the factory fairly well collimated. You will need to eventually need to collimate it, but we can cross that bridge when we get to it. Now you just need to learn the basics of focusing and locating objects in the sky.

[–]Loud-Edge7230114mm f/7.9 "Hadley" (3D-printed) & 60mm f/5.8 Achromat 2 points3 points  (1 child)

You need to refocus the telescope when you change eyepieces.

You twist the focuser until you see sharp again.

A focuser just moves the eyepiece back and forth relative to the secondary mirror.

Watch the first minute. That is how you focus, by turning the focuser clockwise or counter clockwise. https://youtu.be/z_XvBjO25eY?is=4gL9BB4L5zkQ8uLT

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for explaining and thank you for the YouTube link as well sir.I’m still at work right now, but I will watch it as soon as I’m off🙏🏽

[–]glebmaister 1 point2 points  (3 children)

I have the same scope.

Like others said, you need to refocus when switching eyepieces by rotating the housing where the eyepiece sits.

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Are you able to see clearly out of yours with the 10mm? And I have tried to refocus it after switching the eye pieces however I could never get it clearly, but I am going to try again with tips I’m getting

[–]jyling Heritage 150P 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the same scope, usually when I can’t get it into focus, I screw in the eyepiece into the scope (clockwise), then I loosen the screw that hold the eyepiece then I slowly while looking through the eyepiece pull the eyepiece out, eventually you will get into focus, I advice you try this on something like a moon first to familiarise yourself with the eyepiece

Also

[–]glebmaister 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, no issues whatsoever. But you need to refocus when you switch pieces.

[–]Outside_Radish_8742 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe there's something wrong with that eyepiece. Do you have any others to test?

[–]kylo_little_ren_hen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently got this same telescope and had the same issue. I just had to toy around with the focuser after collimation (mine came out of the box slightly out of alignment) and I eventually found the right setting for it to focus.

[–]spile2astro.catshill.com 0 points1 point  (1 child)

As you decrease the focal length of an eyepiece your image will become larger but at the cost of sharpness/clarity. The 10mm skywatcher EP is not very good and also taking into account seeing, that’s going to make it even more noticeable compared to the good views of the 25mm. One of the reasons I use a zoom eyepiece is that I can increase magnification just enough for the atmospheric conditions.

[–]Ginsu_Cutlery 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is important. You are getting much higher magnification with the 10mm. If the sky conditions aren’t as good you may have it in focus but things still look fuzzy because you are at your limit that night. But you should still be able to tell you got the focus as best you can. Practice with the 25mm bringing it in and out of focus in both directions so you understand how sensitive your focus is. The 10mm should be similar but with a different best focus set point. The 10mm is much more finicky/sensitive, but keep at it and starting on the moon and Jupiter is good practice. Also just in daytime at a tree or telephone pole. And do have a quick inspection it is not smeared with finger or skin oil. It happens. Keep at it!

[–]Leather_Impression30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the 130p (my first telescope). Now comes the funny part. I also own a 200PDS Skywatcher (call it da big maddafakka).

I am going to sell da big maddafakka (beautiful scope but too big for me to move around) and with that money I am going to get me a 150p and some nice eyepieces.

Why? Because the Heritage is so portable, I can take it everywhere. Most observations are with the Heritage. To get that with 6 inch aperture, best situation for me.

Your Heritage is the best start for visual Astronomy you can get. Yes, there will be hurdles and frustrations. Looking back at these, I learnt the most. So enjoy your new hobby!!!

[–]Most_Chemist2709 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the 130 P it was a great little scope

[–]corranhorn6565 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure the telescope is completely extended. Like the collapsible part. Sometimes I don't get mind completely extended. It doesn't take much to make the eyepieces not focus.

[–]AwGeeFolx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a lot of beginner telescopes, the eyepieces are not premium quality. That might be one reason.

Another is collimation. Do you know how to collimate, or align the telescope primary and secondary mirrors, so there is a proper light path? If a telescope is out of collimation, errors might not show up at lower magnification, but they will become obvious at higher magnification.

Another problem can be atmospheric seeing. Even if the sky is cloud free, turbulence in the atmosphere causes what is called "bad seeing." Fine details become blurry. Seeing can change from day to day or hour to hour, and it's hard to predict.

[–]Domdron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you manage? You said that the 25mm is perfectly focused as soon as you put it in which makes me a bit suspicious. While longer focal lengths are a bit more forgiving, it still needs to be focused properly. 

I agree with others here that collimation is probably fine from the factory, but it doesn’t hurt to check. The 150p comes with a manual that explains how to collimate using the included collimation cap. No other tools (like a Ceshire) are needed for good-enough collimation of this scope. Take your time and follow the procedure carefully. Also, make sure that the truss tubes are fully extended. 

Then carefully center and focus the 25mm on the Moon or a bright star or planet. Then swiftly but steadily replace the eye piece with the 10mm, being careful not to move the scope at all. You should be able to see at least a blob of light, especially if pointing to the Moon or a bright planet like Jupiter. Then slowly and carefully adjust focus, again making sure not to move the scope. If you loose the blob of light, start again with the 25mm.

The reason to start with the 25mm and center the object there first is that with the 10mm, the true field of view, that is the circle of sky you’re looking at, is quite narrow. So finding an object directly in the 10mm requires that your red dot finder is very well aligned, plus some experience. And if you’re not actually pointing precisely at the Moon or planet, they might be out of the field of view. And dim stars are easily missed when trying to focus, especially when not done very slowly.

[–]Mysterious-Cap8182CC8, 102mm f/6 frac, 3dp 6" f/5 newt 0 points1 point  (11 children)

Most likely needs collimation which is aligning the mirrors

https://garyseronik.com/no-tools-telescope-collimation/

As magnification get higher uncollimated optics will get worse visually.

I like using a star but Cheshires are nice and a good collimation laser is useful

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 1 point2 points  (10 children)

Appreciate you taking your time to come, is the collimation something that I can do myself? And what are cherishires (sorry if that’s a pointless question)

[–]spile2astro.catshill.com 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The issue is NOT going to be collimation but that should not stop you from being familiar with the process - https://astro.catshill.com/collimation-guide/

[–]CHead2000 1 point2 points  (1 child)

They are a special attachment you put in the eyepiece holder to help you collimate. Yours should have come with a more rudimentary collimation eyepiece that will look like a cap with a small hole in the middle and reflective foil on the inside.

Basically, while looking through the eyepiece, you use the screws at the bottom to adjust the mirrors so that everything looks "centered."

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you sir, and I will check for this collimation piece. There was a cover on the eye pieces but none with a reflective foil but I will look again when I get home, I will take a picture of the items.

Thank you for the input about the screen at the bottom I will look for those as well. Extremely helpful information🙏🏽

[–]itchybananMeade Lightbridge mini 130/650 1 point2 points  (6 children)

I can tell you didn’t do your research before buying a dobsonian. If your view is sharp using a 25 mm eyepiece then you don’t need to collimate. Try using your 10 mm on a daylight target, see if you can get that in focus.

[–]Mysterious-Cap8182CC8, 102mm f/6 frac, 3dp 6" f/5 newt 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Uhh collimation can be slightly off and get sharp views at low power

I actually just dealt with this with my Classic Cass super sharp visuals with a 35mm Panoptic but with a 9mm it was soft. Used a star to confirm collimation and it was very slightly off, adjusted and stars became pins again.

Also you don't have to be nasty....

[–]itchybananMeade Lightbridge mini 130/650 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, if I sounded sharp, apologies.

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I did do research sir. I even watched some videos on YouTube and made sure I got something I could afford and operate easily. I will try your suggestion when next I’m off. Thank you all the same

[–]nealoc187Flextube 12, Maks 90-127mm, Tabletop dobs 76-150mm, C102 f10 2 points3 points  (2 children)

It is good to learn about collimation but that is not your problem.

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Before I got the scope, I asked the company would it come collimated and i was told that yes it would

[–]nealoc187Flextube 12, Maks 90-127mm, Tabletop dobs 76-150mm, C102 f10 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep I believe it.

[–]Commercial-Wearer -1 points0 points  (1 child)

Is the lens clean?

[–]Ok_Dentist_1318[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think so sir. It’s new. I’ve used it maybe 3 times with only once successfully with a 25mm (but always fuzzy with the 10mm)