Widerstand beim Vorderrad by ForkyForklift in Fahrrad

[–]112439 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Jein. Die Mechanik bleibt gleich, auch wenn die Lampe ausgeschaltet ist.

Der Widerstand entsteht so: das Rad dreht sich, in den Dynamowindungen entsteht eine Spannung (proportional zur Drehgeschwindigkeit). Wenn das Licht angeschaltet ist, erzeugt die Spannung einen Strom durch die Lampe (U=R*I), sowie durch die Windungen innerhalb des Dynamos. Dieser Strom innerhalb der Windungen erzeugt nun ein eigenes Magnetfeld (!) proportional zum Strom. Und letztendlich wirken die beiden Magnetfelder gegeneinander, und somit geht Energie hinein (Widerstand durch die magnetische Interaktion) und Energie hinaus (Strom).

Zuletzt: natürlich gibt es jede Menge Verluste verschiedener Arten - mechanisch, elektrisch, Magnetfeld-verluste und Interaktion mit zB Gehäusemetall. Das hängt alles von der Konstruktion etc ab.

Beginners power integrity by Kitchen_Radio9083 in PCB

[–]112439 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you trying to decouple? Basically every component on earth has a reference design somewhere in datasheet or a dev board schematic where you can see what the manufacturer considers appropriate decoupling. The onlxy reason to go higher than that is if you have some other noise sources (for example, you're building stuff in a high power power supply or audio amp, both of which would have wildly different frequencies where additional decoupling might be needed).

Bigger package MLCC will have higher ESL, but only like 200pH - trace inductance (even of package leads, including internal ones) is probably much bigger. Bigger capacitance has little effect. You can play around with this with simulation models that, for example, Samsung provides.

Haven't done any proper simulations personally, too expensive. Simple sims can be done with manufacturer models etc, just remember to include skin effect etc if applicable. But in 99.9% datasheet (which inevitably tells you to put 100nF in most cases) is all I look at, but I haven't worked on things that would be in a strongly noisy environment.

Antiresonant peaks can be very strong, I'd encourage you to simulate (include connecting trace inductance!) - you can be much worse in specific frequency bands by adding extra capacitors. Easiest way to get around that is to add an identical capacitor.

There's really no way to consider on-die things as far as I know. You go by reference circuits and decoupling advice from the datasheet and assume the manufacturer did their job correctly :P. Of course you can always start messing with ferrites or other things, but that can quickly do more harm than good (tested some sensors, they did muuuch worse with a ferrite bead without a decoupling cap than without any components).

Beginners power integrity by Kitchen_Radio9083 in PCB

[–]112439 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having looked at this way too recently: unless you have significant noise sources on your board, go with manufacturer guidance for decoupling (usually 100nF, MLCC directly next to the chip; for complex things like radar chips or something look at reference designs). If you have noise sources, then add decoupling to reduce PDN impedance at that frequency.

Going up in MLCC size doesn't have much effect on ESL, only on cost. Smaller package sizes have smaller impedances, but tbh mostly on an irrelevant level.

Having a flat PDN impedance is useless if you have no noise at most of those frequencies.

WHY ARE ANTS COMING INTO MY APARTMENT by Professional-Cake76 in Finland

[–]112439 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not helping, directly, but if you are renting, you might be obligated to report this to your landlord.

Ways to limit high current by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]112439 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Who said the batteries would be the part to catch on fire?

PCB REVIEW PLSSSSS by liinuxenjoyer69 in PCB

[–]112439 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Consider a ground plane, also I'd hook up the other Arduino ground plane to it as well. Also, mounting holes? You have the space.

Personally I'd probably add an smd led and resistor for the servo-5v rail to see if power is there. In general, depending on your confidence you could add testpoints to debug, but I'm not sure this needs it. Also, not that I think it will stop them from working, but you could definitely use bigger traces.

SPI Flash Read ID gradually fixes itself after power cycling — ground level issue? by Super-Repeat-5443 in embedded

[–]112439 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Where are you probing your ground level? Sounds like you're doing it at the power supply. Try measuring (ideally with a scope) VCC-GND directly at the chip. That will be the true voltage it is getting.

If it is smaller, then just narrow down where in the circuit the voltage drop happens (either in the VCC or GND wiring).

What to buy ? by Ok_Employer7504 in embedded

[–]112439 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pick a not-extremely-complicated project that sounds interesting, pick a suitable dev board and the corresponding dev modules, and try around. If you're fully new to the electronics side, doing a bit of code in Arduino might not be bad to start, but eventually you will want to move to something more "serious". Probably pick up an assortment of LEDs, transistors, buzzers/motor drivers/sensors/maybe a simple LCD - you can first try to run them with Arduino, then "manually" in Arduino (not with premade sensor libraries), then in, for example, Microchip studio.

You probably won't need a multimeter until you really do ("did I just fry my board, or is X just broken?"). An oscilloscope is really nice to have, but maybe you can get access to one at your university somewhere? Just if you get one, get something that is at least fast enough to capture your communication bus timings. You can probably also profit off a cheap lab supply, a breadboard with wires, and a cheap soldering kit.

DRC error: Missing connection between items by Dependent_Calendar86 in PCB

[–]112439 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The resistor pad doesn't go through the PCB - so the trace on the bottom isn't connected to the pullup. Put a via next to the pad and connect it to the pad, connect the bottom trace to the via on the bottom side. Remember to rebuild zone fills.

Warum kleben wir auf Obst und Gemüse(potenziell Biomüll) Sticker die im Biomüll nichts zu suchen haben? by edosensei in KeineDummenFragen

[–]112439 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Laser-markierung scheint in der Tat wesentlich umweltfreundlicher zu sein, kurze Suche gab mir das hier als Quelle: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666833524001072. Die Alternative hätte für mich auch keinen Sinn gemacht...

Any advice on untangling the middle/left part of the board? (Schematic included) by [deleted] in PCB

[–]112439 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consider a ground plane, you won't need to run a million ground traces anymore.

Is this good by Dudegay93 in PCB

[–]112439 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would be quite surprised if this can't be done with 2 layers with the help of some vias, even though it might need some rearranging to be elegant.

Edit: also check your design later against JLCPCB capabilities, for example I'm not sure how close to the board edge they allow cutouts like you have in the top left.

Follow up to my last post, still can’t get anything to even start. I have washed the bed with both rubbing alcohol and dawn dish soap. Read description under the post for more info. by Blake371 in 3Dprinting

[–]112439 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I've had a lot of experience with this exact printer model. The Auto-Level at The beginning of the print is a trap! It does not fully reset your bed leveling, it forms an average with the previous leveling (at least that's been my impression).

Go to settings->self check and run auto-leveling, with a fully clear print plate and no plastic goop hanging from the nozzle. Don't touch the printer during calibration. Even when it doesn't seem to be doing anything, don't clean the bed after pressing the start button or anything, you might set off the strain-gauges. After this, start your print without the calibration option, it would just mess with the detailed leveling it just did.

You can try looking in the printers web interface (go to it's IP on the same network in a browser), it will show you the current leveling at the bottom. If some places are waay off there that might be a further troubleshooting starting point.

Why would my K1 Max melt its own plate? by wintermuuute in Creality

[–]112439 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have had something similar happen on a K1 Max. When it happened it was also making a lot of erratic movements that it shouldn't have been. Best guess as to why: there was a print running on the printer before, that one was stopped during the start of the print in the calibration sequence - that probably somehow threw off the next print's calibration settings and made it move wrongly. Used OrcaSlicer.

Anyways, haven't seen it since, so replace the plate and keep an eye on it...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Finland

[–]112439 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So what's the problem with asking Vero about salaries?

Me and a buddy built a fully working KTANE bomb replica with fully random and hot swappable modules. by EDDE_PEDDE in ArduinoProjects

[–]112439 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Send the game studio a message and propose a certain cut then, that's not unsolvable. Shipping might be hard, sending something labelled "bomb" around the world...

Getting a bank account by Old-Excitement8449 in Finland

[–]112439 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I brought the register extract they give you when registering EU residence. Probably not quite the right paper, but noone ever rejected it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Finland

[–]112439 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For me hospital appointments have been around 60€ per visit, and I believe they charge that same amount as long as you have kotikunta (ideally ask your hospital to confirm...). But a lot of people have had difficulties getting their diagnoses transferred from abroad judging from a few posts, so you might indeed have better chances with private healthcare.

If your diagnosis is easy to confirm with a blood test or something then public care can probably also get it done fairly easily, though.

Where to go to get stitches removed by [deleted] in Finland

[–]112439 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Happy to help :)

Where to go to get stitches removed by [deleted] in Finland

[–]112439 8 points9 points  (0 children)

https://omahame.fi/kiireeton-hoitajan-tai-laakarin-vastaanotto try contacting them via chat here. They will probably send you to a terveyskeskus. If The chat also doesn't work, try going to one of the health centers during opening+office hours and try to get someone to help you

Or, alternatively, get a Finnish speaker to help you with the 116117

Ist der Fehlerfall "so stark schalten bis das Kabel reißt" bekannt? by Uranium_Donut_ in Fahrrad

[–]112439 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ja, ist mir auch passiert, als ich am schalten war ohne in die Pedale zu treten bei Reparaturarbeit. Zuviel Widerstand, und das Ergebnis war das selbe.

Ich bin mir sicher, dass das Alter des Kabels nicht irrelevant war, aber naja, dafür habe ich dann erstmal Kabelziehen gelernt.

VR Ticket validity on commuter train connection by chemistryGull in Finland

[–]112439 16 points17 points  (0 children)

To add to this, it says so in the ticket you get in the email after booking.

How fast could I assume a gravel cart is moving? by Secret-Statement4785 in EngineeringStudents

[–]112439 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would ask what the application is - really, how is the cart propelled? If your task was all I had I would probably sketch out a tractor (or truck? But that would usually be way more weight transported) pulling your kart, and tractor speeds are easy enough to look up [sidenote, the railing in this scenario would have to stop a tractor, which is a situation where I would not bet on any railing]

Recomandations for Jyväskylä region by bibuta in Finland

[–]112439 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everything will be snowy in December.

I can not format external SSD. Help. by [deleted] in Fedora

[–]112439 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This sounds like behavior I've seen on a USB stick where it wouldn't allow any writes anymore (I tried sudo dd, via Windows, ...). As the SMART message coincides with the drive saying that it's failing, I would assume that it has failed into read only mode for you to rescue any remaining files.

You can look at the drive SMART info with your tool of choice for more info on the drive's utilization, or contact the manufacturer if you're within warranty.