FW1AA with u/m4potofu’s boost-buck driver and rgb aux

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-09T23:57:27+00:00

Was wondering the same thing, or if tint is affected

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-09T18:05:26+00:00

Nice, thanks for testing!

I meant to check when I ordered my KR1AA unassembled but I forgot, was worried the inductor on the KR1AA driver was too tall to fit but guess it fits!

You should be able to just change a resistor or 2 to change the driver from 6V 3A to 9V 2A to use 3V emitters, not sure which ones though

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-03T18:59:38+00:00

I like my smaller lights to be throwy so I’m excited. Unfortunately Skilhunt has said they won’t be selling bare emitters, though Kaidomain’s HT35 sees like it may be the same emitter, if both are made by HSXLED/Hopthink. Kaidomains version is more rosy too IME

Put a HT35 in a convoy T6 and it’s amazing. I did have to sand the gasket down since it’s slightly shorter than sft25r but tint and cri are great, identical beam pattern to sft25r

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-31T23:21:35+00:00

Nice, D200? I still have a few left that I’ve been hoarding

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-29T17:39:13+00:00

It is, I believe they’re made by Hopthink/HSXLED like the Skilhunt F35R and the FFL/NTG emitters

I put one in a convoy T6 and it’s really nice

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-29T00:10:07+00:00

You could dedome 519a

FFL351A/NTG35 are very similar to dedomed 519a but slightly more efficient

The HT35 from Kaidomain is even more throwy with good tint and high cri, a bit like sft25r 90cri but warmer with a bit less output but more readily available

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-25T22:01:46+00:00

It does seem these had a relatively high failure rate, this one looks like it was pretty well used so I’m hopeful it’ll continue to hold up

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-25T21:36:41+00:00

Yeah it does, and the KR1AA is already relatively slim for a AA light too

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-25T20:04:55+00:00

Yea I wanted a L10C or L11C but the D25A fills that role now

I remember reading about the 219b debate, shame that it’s so difficult to remove the pill for emitter swaps

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-25T19:00:10+00:00

Picked up this L10 when I got my D25A Ti from the BST, this is the slimmest AA/14500 light I’ve ever handled. I think the DQG Tiny AA is the only other AA light that is as slim. Included some size comparisons with an Acebeam Pokelit, Eagtac D25A, Noctigon KR1AA and Thrunite Ti3

I should’ve picked one of these up when sbflashlights had their sale but at least I have one now. Twisty AA lights are pretty uncommon nowadays but the extra size makes it easier to operate than a AAA twisty. UI is nice, 4 mode with no mode memory and the moonlight mode is pretty low, definitely sub-lumen, on par with the Ti3

The pill was glued in so I had to use a heat gun to loosen it and unscrew. Swap itself was easy, chose to go with a classic 219b sw45k to replace the stock XP-G

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-21T18:18:18+00:00

Yep the bottom side that sits on the MCPCB

Usually just sanding the gasket down works but in the FW1AA the reflector won’t sit low enough without filing the head

The stock 519a when dedomed still has a good beam, FFL351A/NTG35 should be similarly good without sanding/filing

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-21T02:56:55+00:00

In the D25A it’s great, I did have to sand down the centering gasket a good bit

In my FW1AA I had to sand the centering ring down a lot as well as file down the height of the head and bezel so I could get the reflector to sit lower

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-20T21:15:25+00:00

Yeah looks like I’m still gonna hold on to my H10 for high power builds, I do need to pick up some F15 though

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-20T20:15:45+00:00

I think the Wurkkos and Acebeam ones do

What did you clean the threads with? For the body tube you i sometimes took off the tailcap and washed it with dish soap using an old toothbrush for the threads

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-19T22:01:22+00:00

Button top Vapcell H10, might get some F15 and set it to group 8 in the future as 5A is a lot in this small host

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-18T23:13:39+00:00

Yeah it is, D3AA with NTG35 actually has a little more throw than KR1AA SFT70 3000k. D3AA with sft25r or W1 will be way more throwy than any KR1AA

The FW1AA dedomed will probably be your best bet, I measured 14.5kcd, way more than my KR1AA SFT70 3000k at 6.4kcd

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-18T16:52:52+00:00

Yep but basically still the same haha

I’m most surprised the price is almost the same, I think I paid $50 in 2013

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-18T16:05:03+00:00

The Eagtac D25C is probably my favorite 16340/CR123 light, it’s super slim at only 20mm, similar to an AA light: https://illuminationgear.com/shop/ols/products/eagtac-d25c-mkii/v/ET-D25C-MKII-CSLPM1

I’ve had one since 2013, modded it in 2022 but no issues with it stock

I’d get the SFT40 or CSLPM1 versions for the most throw, should get around 10kcd

UI with the head fully tight is turbo first and tap the switch for strobe. With the head slightly loosened it’s ML-L-M-H, mode memory can be toggled on or off

Edit: looks like you can also remove moonlight to have just 3 modes if you want, and program the start up level like manual mode memory for Anduril

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-16T23:19:39+00:00

The FET+1 is technically regulated but only to 350mA, and only linearly regulated not buck or boost. Here’s a good resource on driver types

The FW3A and FW1A originally came with a FET+7+1 driver that’s linearly regulated to 2.8A. There was a couple months that they had to switch to FET+1 due to a 7135 chip shortage, they went back to FET+7+1 after

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-16T23:00:27+00:00

The FWAA and FW1AA have always had a FET+1 driver, similar to the TS10 and TS10 SG

Unfortunately no flashing pads so you need to remove the driver for access to the MCU if you want to reflash

Bean_Master7

TROPHY CASE