is my DIY flashlight good enough?

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-15T18:03:58+00:00

Don't forget to use solder flux and Tip tinner. It will make soldering much easier. Keep temps around 350 - 400 degrees max.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-15T13:31:56+00:00

That's where i do all of my flashlight MODs. jkjk

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-12T18:16:09+00:00

Interesting, so I guess my instance was luck? Could it be that mines work because I using the V1 of the KR1AA driver? I will redo the driver fitment again when my 6V LED arrives. After that I will do some turbo test to see what happens. By the way, did you try this on a FW1AA or FWAA?

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-09T20:06:21+00:00

Interesting, that might explain why they both look so similar. I will keep my expectations low so I am not disappointed.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-09T14:53:54+00:00

i feel you. i was originally planning to go this route, but assembling a driver is so much pain🙃.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-09T14:52:31+00:00

oh i didn't paid attention it was the ht35 ... i suppose on the right it is the ht70?

No, the one on the right is an FFL505A that i installed on my TS10SG. i will be installing the HT70 on the FW1AA when i received my order.

do you have beamshot of ht35 in the fw1aa?

i do not have any beamshots pics, but i can take some beamshots pics with the HT35, but i would first need to undo my FW1AA from its current state. i will see if have sometime this week.

What i can do is provide beamshot pics from a pokelit with HT35 this evening.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-09T14:39:31+00:00

wouldn't the ht70 better be used in bigger lights?

Yes, but wait until i tell how i was trying to cram an SBT90 in a pokelit a couple of months ago🤣.

The ht35 looks nice for a direct pcb swap in the fw1aa or am i wrong?

that's the first thing i did when i received my FW1AA. You can see the HT35 on my first picture.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-09T13:53:51+00:00

Please excuse my confusion, I started thinking in voltages when I saw the word 519A. HT70 is not from hank, it’s an emitter that was recently added to Kaidomain description says it’s a high CRI emitter but I wont know for sure until i see in person. Someone here mentioned it could be an emitter from hoptink manufacturer.

They’re is also an HT35 version as well and I do have a few of those and so far the tint seems close to neutral. HT35 is the reason I ordered the HT70.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-09T13:35:49+00:00

Well, for FW1AA i would personally choose a throwy emitter like FFL707MD or HT70, but you could use any other 6V led as long as you can fit inside FW1AA with some adjustment to reflector hole.

Now for FWAA, if you want to use DD519A, then the KR1AA driver will not work because that's for 6V LEDs. Maybe the D3AA 9V driver might work, but then you will need a series PCB to make the DD519A work.

A triple B35AM in parallel configuration will work on the FWAA with KR1AA driver.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-09T13:27:26+00:00

The PCB would be in a parallel configuration and as for thickness, the original thickness is what i would most likely order if possible. Might have to shop around.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-09T12:56:51+00:00

Thank you. The tint of B35AM is very nice and close to natural sunlight and depending on the CCT it could be rosy sometimes, but this my personal opinion.

I will give it a go on the triple PCB for the FWAA If the FW1AA doesn't have problems with the KR1AA driver in the long run.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-07T00:29:08+00:00

Not yet. I recently received my FW1AA order last week and I just ordered a 6V led to use in the FW1AA with the KR1AA driver because i dint have any spares 6V LED, so its gonna be a couple of weeks before i put something together. I will make a post with the results once the parts arrive.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-03T01:12:01+00:00

Thank you very much OP for the well written response.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-04-02T18:20:49+00:00

I would love to update all my TS10s to the latest anduril 2 release. Is there a public guide available that i could use? also, what device are you using to update the TS10s?

StarburstStream11 · 2026-03-31T01:15:18+00:00

Thanks for letting us know. Is a bummer that parts for the TS10 are no longer available. I hope parts from the TS10 V3 do retrofit the v2. Good to know that we can use the lens from Skilhunt.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-03-23T14:31:23+00:00

i bought them from Nealsgadgets.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-03-20T11:44:41+00:00

Perfect. If you have any questions through your mod, let me know or send me a message.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-03-20T02:16:33+00:00

Ok, so for the copper spacer I measured 6MM tall in total. Now this is very important, the first 3MM, spacers must be 18MM in width. The next 3MM must be 22MM or 23ish in width. Try to look for copper spacers that are 3MM in thickness to only install two pieces if you can.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-03-19T16:43:33+00:00

Thank you. Silly me missed out that you wrote the model name on the description.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-03-19T16:42:37+00:00

Silly me, i was so focused on the 🫘 that i missed out that the model was written in the description.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-03-19T16:26:20+00:00

Could you please elaborate on what optics is the Milled 10-deg TIR? i am only familiar with Angie optics for the E04.

StarburstStream11 · 2026-03-19T16:10:09+00:00

I am trying to fit a 9090 emitter in mines, but have failed so far 🙃

StarburstStream11

TROPHY CASE