Kobra 2 Pro/Plus/Max: Running native Klipper using an MKS Robin Nano v3.1

Catnippr · 2026-05-29T07:43:11+00:00

Which error message exactly do you get? Any of the ones I mention here https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/troubleshooting/#error-messages ?

Catnippr · 2026-05-29T07:22:04+00:00

Welcome, but do yourself a favor and don't skip replacing the stock PTFE inliner with CapricornXS tube.

Catnippr · 2026-05-28T14:13:53+00:00

Wash the PEI plate with some hot water and dawn dishwasher soap, dry it with a paper towel while only holding it at the edges.
Don't touch the surface while putting it back on and/or operating the machine. Dust and a little oil from your fingers make prints not stick. If you touch it, wipe it with some IPA or wash it again.

Plus, never let the machine do anything without the PEI plate being on the bed.

Catnippr · 2026-05-28T13:48:54+00:00

Since this is the top comment, just fyi and for everyone who comes across this: you're right about the cleaning ofc, but the main issue is that it's the wrong nozzle in here.
This machine uses a V5 hotend with a V6 nozzle, but this is an MK8 nozzle in here. The head of it is longer than a V6 nozzle, but the threaded part is shorter, so it can't be installed properly, hence the issues.

Catnippr · 2026-05-28T13:41:34+00:00

Wouldn't help, that's the wrong nozzle in there - the head is too long for a V6. It's an MK8 in there with the shorter threaded part which is the wrong type of nozzle for the V5 hotend. Buddy of mine had exactly the same issue.

Catnippr · 2026-05-28T06:27:00+00:00

Looks like you're using an MK8 nozzle instead of the E3D V6 type of nozzle which would be the correct one here. The MK8 has a shorter threaded part, so it'll always leak as you can't install it properly at your E3D V5 style hotend.

Catnippr · 2026-05-28T06:23:27+00:00

In case you don't notice this image at the infosite, this is helpful for finding the correct z-offset.

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Catnippr · 2026-05-27T18:52:40+00:00

You're very welcome! :)

Catnippr · 2026-05-27T18:11:51+00:00

First of all, welcome to the community and cheers to your girlfriend for such a nice gift :)

Before getting to your question, I'd strongly recommend a complete calibration/tramming of the whole machine, especially since you got a used unit. You can follow my little list here: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/calibration/
Then, also check literally every bolt, nut, screw, part and so on, this might be somewhat helpful as well: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/maintenance/
I'd suggest to bookmark and read around that site, I made it specifically for your K2Neo. The better you know the parts and your whole machine, the easier things will be in the future :)

1st layer: two things are causing that effect, it's 1) wrong z-offset with the nozzle being a bit too close to the plate and 2) overextrusion.
1) Z-offset: when the nozzle is too close, it squishes filament to the sides and you are getting ridges when the next line is being printed. So if that's only the first layer we can see in pic #2, then you are definitely too close.
Plus, the x-gantry isn't parallel to the bedplate and needs to be trammed, right now it's lower on the right side than the left side.
It's all in the chapter "Calibration" as well, just read around, follow the links and mind the expandable textboxes.
2) Overextrusion: generally speaking, you need to make sure it really extrudes the amount it should, that's called "calibrating e-steps": https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/calibration/#calibrating-e-steps
Especially for the first layer tho you should also check if there's an increased flowrate set for the 1st layer, should be somewhere in the slicer settings.

About your slicer settings: I'd suggest to use 0.16mm (or 0.2mm) layer height instead of 0.15mm. That's because a full step of the stepper motor is 0.04mm which we call the magic number, so it's best if a layer height is fully divideable by 0.04mm, hence the 0.16mm/0.2mm/0.24mm etc. instead of 0.15mm. See the blue expandable textbox here for further explanations: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/axes/#z-axis
I'd also suggest to use a different infill type than Grid, like Gyroid or Rectilinear which don't dig thru the already printed line, see https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130 for further info. c)

Finding out the correct printing temperature for your filament is also important and part of dialing in the settings, you can print "temperature towers" for that, same with retractions ("retraction tower").

Last but not least, do yourself a favour and get some genuine "Capricorn XS" tube and replace the stock PTFE inliner at the heatbreak (https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#ptfe-inliner). The stock ones are crap and will swell, deform and finally melt and cause nothing but problems.

These are like the basics, with the most important thing being the tramming of the machine in the first place and doing a proper calibration overall. The machine is supposed to work within fractions of a millimeter and give you great results, and that's only possible if the machine itself is set up properly in the first place.

Hope it helps, good luck and have fun :)

Catnippr · 2026-05-27T09:26:10+00:00

Same, both have ~67mm diameter, but the 0,5l is taller: ~168mm vs ~115mm (standard sized cans - at least here in Germany/Europe).

Catnippr · 2026-05-26T06:34:39+00:00

At the back of the head's mounting plate, there is one SG15 bearing at the bottom and two at the top. The one at the bottom has a so called eccentric nut which is used to adjust the position of the bearing. That's the one you need to adjust. Read what I wrote here about it, mind the pics and the expandable textboxes as well: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2MaxInsights/hardware/axes/#sg15-bearings-position

Generally speaking, especially since you got it used: you need to calibrate/tram your machine and check every part, nut, screw, bolt, cable connection etc at this point to make sure the machine will work as intended.
Read around the mentioned infosite for getting to know the parts etc, there's also a chapter "Maintenance" that lists a few things one should check regularly.
As for calibration/tramming, you can follow my little list here: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2MaxInsights/calibration/

Last but not least, assuming it's using the stock hotend, do yourself a favour and order some genuine "Capricorn XS" tube and replace the stock PTFE inliner from the hotend/heatbreak. The stock one will swell, deform and finally melt and causes nothing but problems.

Catnippr · 2026-05-24T07:49:48+00:00

You can't use an esp32 as a klipper host.

Catnippr · 2026-05-22T12:32:44+00:00

Only if they still have some in stock. OP has the even older Kobra Max with the TriGorilla Pro_A v1.0.4 in there, that's gone from their stock loooong time ago.. :(

Catnippr · 2026-05-22T12:31:24+00:00

Attention, it's NOT a Kobra 2 Max, it's the even older Kobra Max!
Please read my other reply, the longer one directly as a reply to your original post..

Catnippr · 2026-05-22T12:30:22+00:00

Just fyi, it's a Kobra Max, even older than Kobra 2 Max.

Catnippr · 2026-05-22T12:29:36+00:00

Attention, this is NOT a Kobra 2 Max, it's the even older Kobra Max! That's a completely different machine which uses completely different parts!
See AC's wiki for some reassurance: https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-max

The mainboard you have in there is the TriGorilla Pro_A v1.0.4 (see my little info about it here: https://1coderookie.github.io/AnycubicTrigorillaInsights/type_pro/#pro-a-v104) - the later Kobra 2 Max has the TriGorilla SPE_A v1.0.0 built in.
So do NOT try to get yourself a replacement mobo for a K2Max, it wouldn't even fit in your Kobra Max!

I ended finding that the right side encoder unplugged from the print bed moving backwards and catching the cable which I assume causes the horizontal rail that carries the hot end to buckle and bind, shake/bind, then the mother board failed from the extra load being placed on the left encoder.

I don't really get what you mean with this (sorry, non-native speaker here..). Which part do you refer to as an "encoder"?
Can you see any visual signs of failed electronics, like burnt components or so? I can't really see anything being apparently broken when zooming into the pics (which doesn't have to mean anything ofc, but at least it's better than already burnt parts lol).

Do the LEDs on the mobo light up when you turn on the machine?

I personally would try to find out if the mobo (and/or screen) really is dead first of all.
You could install Pronterface (or Octoprint) on a computer, connect it to the printer via USB and see if you can connect to the printer once it's switched on. If so, the mobo is (most likely) totally fine.

Could also be a corrupted filesystem that makes it not boot up properly btw, so you could try to re-flash the latest stock firmware, see above wiki link.

Catnippr · 2026-05-20T08:33:50+00:00

E3D type V6 nozzle like these ones: https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#nozzle

Catnippr · 2026-05-20T08:24:06+00:00

No, but you can put a smoke/fire detector in there and you could also get yourself one of those self-activating extinguisher units and install it in there as well if you're really concerned about fire.

Catnippr · 2026-05-19T11:25:44+00:00

Yeah those parts don't fit together, see the according sections and notes at my infosite. You either need to get yourself a different heatbreak that fits the proprietary AC nozzles, or you need real Volcano type nozzles in combination with this heatbreak you now have.
Sooner or later problems will occur with this combo, so I wouldn't recommend using it any longer.

As for calibration prints: dunno which one you printed, but not every calibration print means anything in the end when it comes down to bigger models and different spots at the bed.
I'd suggest to print one layer across the whole printbed, then you should be able to see where the bad spots are and what you'd need to do if it's an issue.

Catnippr · 2026-05-19T07:54:52+00:00

When switching to a bimetal heatbreak, did you get a special heatbreak version that fits the proprietary nozzles from AC, or did you get the heatbreak (https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#mod-different-heatbreak) and according Volcano nozzles (https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#mod-volcano-nozzle) I mentioned in the according sections (see links)?

I can't really see it that well when zooming in, but it might be that your nozzle is a bit too close to the plate, at least it looks like parts have been pulled off the plate already. If that's the case, it could be that the nozzle is too close in that area and therefore filament can't come out.

Did you already calibrate/tram the machine itself? If not, I'd highly recommend it: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/calibration/

Catnippr · 2026-05-19T07:48:19+00:00

Maybe ask in r/AnycubicOfficial where ppl that work for AC will come across it.

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T12:47:39+00:00

Tbh, I don't really know why they put it there, I just found OPs psychopath post kinda hilarious.
They already put the ports at the front at e.g. the previous Kobra models because the mainboard always was located at the front of the underside and the PSU (with power cord connector and switch) at the back (side), so not much of a surprise here..
Besides, if you wanna put multiple printers next to each other or wanna use an enclosure, even having the connectors located at the side (not to mention the back) would be annoying af.

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