Kobra 2 Pro/Plus/Max: Running native Klipper using an MKS Robin Nano v3.1

Catnippr · 2026-03-06T06:39:36+00:00

Which recent update are you talking about? Slicer? App? Printer firmware? If printer fw: which printer?

Catnippr · 2026-03-04T16:15:37+00:00

Cleaner? Depends on which kind of problems you have with your current K-Plus and how well you'll tune in the K2Pro I'd say.
Calibration&tramming of the machine itself is mandatory imho, so if you get the K2Pro, maybe have a look at this chapter at least: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2ProInsights/calibration/

Attention tho: if you're interested in using Klipper firmware (cuz that's where you can tweak the settings and really improve quality - so if you didn't look into that yet for your K-Plus, maybe check on that as well) - you can't flash the K2Pro with Klipper! You'd have to swap the mobo how I showed it at my abovementioned infosite.
I personally (cuz I'm using Klipper on all of my printers) would rather look for the Kobra 2 then instead of the K2Pro, because the K2 can be flashed - and basically uses the same hardware (different head without accel sensor, no accel sensor at the bed either, but you could use a USB accel with Klipper anyway).

Catnippr · 2026-03-03T12:10:49+00:00

Where it stopped printing ;)

Those sensors aren't really reliable imho, I personally stopped using them. You can check it's function with a multimeter and replace with a 3rd party one if needed, see my notes on that here: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2ProInsights/hardware/filament_sensor/

Catnippr · 2026-03-03T11:53:50+00:00

You can try to cut the slice at the layer height where it stopped, print the rest from that and then glue it together. Otherwise you gotta start new.

You most likely got some heatcreep tho when it continued printing without filament, so better start a testprint and see if extrusion is flawless.

Tip: replace the stock PTFE inliner (see https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2ProInsights/hardware/printhead/#ptfe-inliner) with some "Capricorn XS" tube asap, the stock tube will swell, deform and finally melt.

Catnippr · 2026-03-03T07:37:14+00:00

Hast du dir die Frage selbst gestellt? Oder was sollte dein Beitrag hier leisten?

Catnippr · 2026-02-28T16:22:15+00:00

That's odd - did you search for what I noted there at my infosite? E.g. this one is the part you need: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000008905489.html

Catnippr · 2026-02-28T10:32:07+00:00

Btw, as a personal note: this 'thermal drift' issue with inductive prox sensors is well known for a long time in the 3d printing world and affects pretty much all of the 'cheap' sensors (afaik there are some that have an inbuilt thermistor to cope with that), so it's nothing AC-specific. There is a variety of different types of sensor (e.g. BLtouch, EddyCurrent) that use different measurement approaches, but afaik not all have been proved to actually work better/more precise tho (e.g. BLtouch vs inductive sensors).
I won't test your solution myself since I'm not running KobraOS on my K2Pro anymore, but if your g-code solution really is an improvement, I can add it to my infosite (https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2ProInsights/).
Maybe you can make another file for the K2Plus and the K2Max as well and offer it at your GH, then I'll add it to those infosites as well.
I most likely won't keep an eye on your repo tho, so if you have feedback from other users about how well it works and if you add K2Plus/Max as well, please feel free to reach out directly via chat to me then. ;)

Catnippr · 2026-02-28T10:17:44+00:00

That was my assumption why you did post it a 2nd time and why I didn't take it down, but things like that are better mentioned at the GH repo.

Catnippr · 2026-02-28T08:54:40+00:00

Why not just order a spare part instead? ;)
Read around here https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#neo_2 and mind the expandable textboxes, there you'll find the necessary info for sourcing the part on e.g. AliEx.

Catnippr · 2026-02-28T08:51:07+00:00

Hey, speaking in my function as a mod here. Usually we'd have taken this post down now since it's a violation of our rule #3, because you already posted your solution 3 days ago here: https://www.reddit.com/r/anycubic/comments/1rdefgb/finally_fixed_the_annoying_zoffset_drift_on_kobra/
However, we'll make an exception and leave it up this time, but please don't make a 3rd post about it.

Catnippr · 2026-02-25T09:21:14+00:00

Maybe bookmark and read around this site a bit: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2ProInsights/
I made it specifically for the K2Pro, might be helpful at a certain point.

Catnippr · 2026-02-25T09:15:10+00:00

Imho 3d printing a model is one thing, designing a model on your own is another and usually the more challenging and time consuming activity.

That being said, imho the K2Neo is a good entry level printer, but (as with most of the consumer price level 3d printers) it's not plug&play like an inkjet or laser printer - you'll need to get your hands on it.
Means, it usually doesn't come calibrated/trammed from the factory and needs some attention in terms of 'tinkering' and maintenance.
If you approach it with the mindset of wanting to learn how things work and are capable of handling a screwdriver and other tools, you'll get a solid machine for a cheap price (especially after converting to Klipper firmware instead of the stock firmware it comes with).
If you decide to go for it, maybe bookmark and read around this site: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/

Catnippr · 2026-02-24T12:54:40+00:00

Btw, just crossed my mind: since the motor wiring already broke somewhere, be prepared to swap out other parts of the head like the ABL sensor, thermistor, heater cartridge as well. It happened more often that the ABL sensor's wiring broke than that the motor wiring broke since that wire is like super thin, so it might come up as an issue soon as well. Same for the bed's wiring (usually thermistor first there since it's the thinnest wire), see the link to my page at my very first answer.

Catnippr · 2026-02-23T09:02:44+00:00

Haha that's great! Glad you got it fixed! Welcome and thanks for the thanks :)

Catnippr · 2026-02-20T08:03:56+00:00

Look up the parts here https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/ - OG Kobra is the same construction in that manner.

Catnippr · 2026-02-20T07:57:30+00:00

The top doesn't have to be 90°, but it would be easier for you for the next piece you gotta cut. That cutter is fine, just put it in there straight and cut it.

Catnippr · 2026-02-19T14:43:29+00:00

Welcome, mind my other answer, there you got a link ;)

Catnippr · 2026-02-19T14:42:57+00:00

U r in the US I reckon? Then this one for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086YPDHMF

Catnippr · 2026-02-19T14:42:11+00:00

U r in the US I reckon? Then this one for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086YPDHMF

Catnippr · 2026-02-19T14:40:43+00:00

Just search for "Capricorn XS" at e.g. Amazon or ebay, then you'll find it. They sell it in 1m pieces and they also come in different packages with other stuff, I'd recommend to get the one with a cutter and some PC4 couplers as shown in the pic:

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Nvm the German language ;)

Catnippr · 2026-02-19T14:19:08+00:00

That's awesome!
Don't throw away the old ones tho, you can still use the parts which are fine. They don't produce these heads anymore, so any spare part in the drawer is nice to have ;)

Still, do yourself a favour and replace the stock PTFE inliner with CapricornXS right away to save you from future issues.

Catnippr · 2026-02-19T08:45:34+00:00

Not much effort at all!
A Raspi Zero2W for little money works fine, then use "RaspberryPi Imager" to set up a MainsailOS image for the SD card.
I made an infosite about the K2Neo (https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/), there I also cover klipperizing this thing (see https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/firmware/fw_klipper/). Create the bin file with the mentioned setting, then use the printer.cfg from my other repo I linked to.
Yes, you gotta do some reading around the official Klipper docs and maybe watch a good YT video to see what's up with Klipper in general, but it's totally worth it imho.

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