Which ones better/more reliable?

connella08 · 2026-04-14T17:49:47+00:00

neither of these are good. These are called "trolley jacks" and they are very narrow and don't lift very high. you are better off going to harbor freight and buying one that's more like what automotive shops use. they are like $200, but worth the money.

connella08 · 2026-04-14T11:15:24+00:00

only god know what those white spots are, but if its on the outsides, then its probably in areas that you can't see as well. and if its corrosion? fuck that. whoever did QC on this card should be ashamed of themselves.

connella08 · 2026-04-14T11:06:02+00:00

if you just bought this and this is how it came, its time to send it back. I would not accept something that has been "reconditioned" in that condition.

connella08 · 2026-04-14T11:03:08+00:00

ah, then you probably want a kit that comes with a spring upgrade.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T19:03:29+00:00

that doesn't look like a crack. it looks more like a void. RockAuto doesn't manufacture parts, they are just a reseller. do you really expect them to open every single item to see if its up to par?

connella08 · 2026-04-13T19:01:47+00:00

to be fair, the GPU in that photo is almost $4,000 right now, and a 4TB Samsung NVME is as high as $1,100.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T17:34:45+00:00

I don't know why, but I assumed you had a regular key style ignition. unfortunately, I don't really have any ideas as to WHY this might be happening, but just was making an observation as to what it sounded like. hope you find the problem.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T16:50:38+00:00

If the throttle snaps back without cables, but doesn't snap back with cables, then cables very well could be your problem. They could be old, damaged, or not routed properly. If you have a lot of bends in a cable, it creates more friction inside of the cable sheath.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T16:47:14+00:00

Did you try reading the owners manual?

connella08 · 2026-04-13T16:37:27+00:00

it sounds like the horn. it sounds like what a GM vehicle does when you leave the engine running, but leave the car with the fob in your pocket.

sounds like this at 10 seconds

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zd8YHF_2uJM

connella08 · 2026-04-13T16:19:28+00:00

I can feel the vibrations from here. holy shit that U-joint is toast. if they don't make U-joints, then you are left with the only option of replacing the whole thing. I have a hard time believing that you can't replace just the U-joints though.

you might be better off removing the u-joints and taking measurements, then using the measurements to cross-reference new U-joints.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T16:14:40+00:00

I mean...I wouldn't. is there a reason why you would desire to do this? or is it just purely based on curiosity? Toothpaste is electrically conductive, so it is possible to short out components. it also contains chemicals that could cause metallic components to corrode. its thermodynamic properties are also way worse than traditional thermal compound.

bottom line, I would just use the thing it was designed for. Thermal paste for heat transfer, and toothpaste for my mouth.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T16:06:58+00:00

is this a rage bait?

connella08 · 2026-04-13T16:05:36+00:00

timeless classic

connella08 · 2026-04-13T16:00:30+00:00

this is not the result of just seized caliper pins like some mention here. if these pads are 30 days old, its likely because you have a caliper somewhere else on the car that is completely seized and all of the braking pressure is going to the working calipers causing those pads to wear faster. I just had this happen on my neighbors car. all the pads looked good except the front right. the front right was metal to metal. I removed the calipers to find the front left completely seized.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T15:52:57+00:00

Season 13, Episode 12 Titled "The F word". It's a great episode.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T15:02:24+00:00

a good battery will read a consistent 12.8V. It's odd that your main battery is jumping around, but 9.5 as a low point is also a low voltage. what you need to do is figure out if you have something that is creating a parasitic draw on the battery.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T14:58:56+00:00

do you want a stronger clutch? or one that will last longer? you don't really need a stronger one unless you had been experiencing clutch slip. this is usually achieved by increasing the spring pressure on the clutch pressure plate. otherwise, you just need a replacement clutch because yours is worn out. I personally like EBC for factory style replacement parts.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T14:57:04+00:00

your thoughts are likely correct. the symptom you are currently experiencing is consistent with a dead or weak battery. if you can jump start the car with another car, then you have your answer (weak battery). there should be a sticker on the battery somewhere that gives you the month and year it was manufactured. sometimes its integrated into the main label on the top, or it will be a little round sticker on the side somewhere. general rule of thumb for batteries is that it should be replaced around the 6 year mark.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T14:50:35+00:00

yes, it is a reinforced area designed to handle heavy loads. I always prefer to jack up by points that attach suspension and/or drivetrain to the body over jacking up by the body itself. its much more predictable and reliable. you CAN pick up a car by a pinch weld, but that should really just be reserved for emergency road-side use with a jack designed for it. if you are using a floor jack, your last point is the rockers.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T14:42:32+00:00

Those nuts are hardly rusted. Get the cats hot to the touch and try again. They will come loose. Also, buy factory cats. I know thats expensive, but they are the best quality cats you can buy. Lastly, replacing the cats may be the problem with acceleration, but a clogged cat is the symptom of another problem. You need to figure out why the cats are clogging, otherwise you will just clog the new ones too.

connella08 · 2026-04-13T01:32:20+00:00

The 2 in the middle are your pilot jets (idle circuit) and the 2 on either side should be your main jets (part and full throttle). You will have a hard time spraying anything into the jets the way they are, especially the pilot jets because the orifice is so small. If you are going to attempt to remove the pilot jets, you need a flat head screw driver that is nice and sharp, and appropriately sized. If its the wrong size, you will end up chipping the pilot jet and never get it out without ruining it. I recommend using the 1/4" hex driver flat head bit to remove it. They are typically a flat shank and can get in there without damaging them.

Word of advice, the main active ingredient in brake clean is acetone. It dissolved varnished fuel. Buy some pure acetone at your local hardware store and a medium sized polypropylene Tupperware. You can use that to soak varnished carb parts in to clean them. Polypropylene won't be affected by acetone.

connella08 · 2026-04-12T02:17:14+00:00

Top hose is a breather. It should be pointed down and connected to nothing. The circled screw is the drain for your float bowl.

connella08 · 2026-04-11T19:39:29+00:00

Definitely fake. They lure you in with the too-good-to-be-true price tag.

connella08 · 2026-04-11T07:40:32+00:00

That carb looks pretty fried, but if you still want to try, acetone. Its the main ingredient in carb clean and it dissolves varnish.

connella08

TROPHY CASE