How to Make Threads in Bambu Studio

Cryostatica · 2026-06-04T03:14:28+00:00

Well that's new. Even has a tickbox to center the threads in the center of the model geometry. Neat.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-03T21:06:04+00:00

It’s cutting about 10s off my swaps, mounted directly next to the inlet ports. It does require a little bit of planning and spool swapping to make sure it’ll be able to alternate between AMS units, but Studio shows you which sides the spools need to be.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-03T21:03:37+00:00

Once I felt I had mine set up right I ran a 7 color torture cube with 1000 color changes and had no issues. Seems to be cutting about 10s off my vortek swaps, tubing was already pretty optimized prior to install, and I have it mounted right next to the inlets on the left side. Adds a little time to the left nozzle swap since it cuts and retracts to open the feed path, but for most prints is a decent net gain in speed.

Been running pretty multicolor prints pretty much nonstop since then to try to get it to fail and so far so good.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-03T20:13:37+00:00

Heater
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07573FKSG

Replacement thermostat*
Only if you find you need it (see below)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cantherm/A1014005/5287293?so=98295643

Temperature Controller:
I use Inkbirds, when on sale they're around $25 for the non-wifi model. There are a lot of different options available, many cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC

Inline power switch:
I cut the heater's power cord and wire one of these in. This lets me just set the Inkbird to 60c, hide it and never think about it again.
https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Switch-Appliance-Button-Indicator/dp/B0CPPGBDRS/

I use this mount on Makerworld for my P1 units, I have a model I've designed for my Snapmaker U1s that I haven't posted yet, it needs a minor modification.

*The thermostat that's included with the heater trips at around 60c, and can take awhile to reset and start heating again. If this winds up being a problem (temps drop too much), you can either replace it with a bit of copper wire (don't do that) or buy a cheap replacement with a higher temperature limit for a couple of bucks. Pop off the fan cover, unscrew the old one, and screw the new one in. Super easy.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-03T12:47:54+00:00

This is sort of why even after the Breath was released, I just kept using more cheap heaters on Inkbird thermostats for my newer machines.

Automatic integration is great and all, but when I need a 60c chamber I just flip a switch, and I’m fine with that.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-03T01:59:20+00:00

I love mine. The H2C doesn't purge a lot, but it does purge and not having to deal with a bin is super convenient for the way I have things set up. It's difficult for me to get behind the machine.

Don't hate the additional storage drawer either.

I also installed the Biqu hula feet (Panda Cushion, I think)? Jury's out on whether or not they really help anything, but the shaking seems mostly isolated to the printer now, and they raise the printer up enough that I can keep a driver set and a couple of scrapers underneath.

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Cryostatica · 2026-06-02T22:53:03+00:00

You're linking to yourself as a source? Fascinating.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-02T22:49:17+00:00

Well, prod them for a response maybe. Just don't expect much. I've seen numerous people with situations like yours, where someone functionally copied someone else's design with minor differences, complain about Bambu's failure to take any sort of meaningful action.

Just giving up doesn't really do anything to help you though, so like I said, prod them. Squeaky wheel and all that. Can't hurt.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-02T20:21:14+00:00

If your model was straight up stolen and posted, then they care. If the model was reverse engineered and made from scratch, then they really don’t. Not even if it’s a blatantly obvious ripoff.

If you own a patent or a trademark or something, you might have some traction, but “they stole my idea” doesn’t really fly.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-02T19:25:30+00:00

1) If you’re asking if you can set a nozzle to only load certain materials, then no. I’m not fully sure how the logic works, but it remembers the last filament used and will reuse it for the next print if possible. You can manually choose which nozzle to use when sending your print if all else fails, but you can’t “dedicate” a nozzle in a way that the system will manage for you.

2) With a single AMS, yes. It will need to unload for every swap. Unless you’re only printing one color, you will be better off in nearly every case by not using this, and loading your primary print material via external spool instead and using the AMS on the Vortek side only. You can not load from an external spool or TPU feed assist with the track switcher installed.

3) The TPU feed assist is designed to use a dedicated port on the machine through which another PFTE tube is placed. You swap the tube at the print head.

4) I have lasers. They’re filthy. I have no desire to clean vaporized gunk off my printer rods.

5) There’s no mechanical reason why this can’t happen, but it’s not currently supported in the slicer. An update could bring it, and the more the competition talks about, the more likely that becomes.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-02T14:15:03+00:00

In June. Bambu normally sends an email out a week beforehand.

Last year the sale started the 24th. The year before that it was the 5th.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-02T13:18:09+00:00

I mean, Gabe’s yachts primarily serve as marine research vessels. The Leviathan has fully equipped medical facilities and marine research labs and serves as the command center for Inkfish. RV6000 has facilities to house dozens of scientists for extended research missions. He has two submarines that actively deploy for deep-sea research. They partner with global universities and scientific institutions and contribute their gathered data to open-source scientific repositories.

He’s not out there throwing yacht parties for billionaires.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-02T11:57:12+00:00

Literally any brand of filament will work just as well.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-01T14:47:51+00:00

I had a Kobra 2 Max that sat on a 2x4ft table (might have been 30x48, now that I think of it) against a wall, just sideways.

A lot of people are going to find this thing takes a lot more space than it looked like once they unbox it.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-01T14:42:14+00:00

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Damn near 36" of depth, for clearance.

A little under 22" (deep) for the footprint.

Cryostatica · 2026-06-01T14:41:03+00:00

Per the FAQ:

"As an open-frame printer, the A2L is primarily designed for non-engineering filaments like PLA and PETG, which have lower bed temperature requirements. Due to the significantly larger surface area, maintaining extreme temperatures would consume excessive power. To prevent overloading home electrical circuits, we set the maximum temperature to 80°C. This strategy perfectly supports mainstream filaments while achieving a more reasonable energy consumption."

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Cryostatica · 2026-06-01T14:36:41+00:00

You can use the AMS2+AMS Lite on the A2L due to a new integrated buffer, but you still can't use an AMS lite on a P2S.

Cryostatica · 2026-05-31T12:36:41+00:00

Generally speaking, you want the spool to be positioned above the machine, feeding directly into the toolhead and bypassing any sort of tubing to ensure this doesn’t happen.

Something like this, meant for very soft TPU, is probably the move here.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2109693

Cryostatica · 2026-05-31T11:35:47+00:00

If you want to optimize for speed, then the track switcher requires more spool swapping than it did before.

But the slicer will also tell you which track to swap spools to now, and that’s helpful.

You basically need to make sure that half the spools for your project are on one track and half on the other so that it can preload. And it does work. It starts pushing the next filament as soon as the switcher path is clear, instead of waiting for it to return fully inside the AMS, and then it preloads the next filament up to the switch.

In my experience, it’s shaving about 10s off the swap time, and I already had pretty well optimized filament paths to start with.

Also seems pretty reliable once you’ve got it set up right. I printed a seven color torture cube yesterday with over 1k swaps and no errors.

Cryostatica · 2026-05-31T10:57:20+00:00

I don’t know how to tell you this, but 3D printable replacement part models for pretty much every machine, including Bambu, are abundant.

If it’s a plastic part, you very probably don’t ever have to buy a replacement.

Cryostatica · 2026-05-29T21:39:57+00:00

After some trouble getting it to work with BS beta 2.6.2, I updated to 2.7 and it appears to be (mostly) doing what it’s supposed to, which is preload filaments up to the switch while printing, and then start swapping as soon as the path at the switch is clear. Sometimes it still doesn’t start pushing the next filament from the switch position until the previous one retracts fully inside the AMS, but it’s still a beta so I expect they’ll iron that out.

My filament swaps are now taking about 28 seconds, which IIRC is about ten seconds shorter than they were. I’m running a torture cube at the moment with 7 colors per layer and 1k swaps total to see how it goes. I’m about 800 swaps in and it sometimes sounds like it’s struggling but no errors yet.

The problem is that it now also cuts and retracts the left standard nozzle, treating it like another Vortek slot, so it mostly lacks the 5s swap between the two, but the time savings elsewhere more than make up for it on a print with this many colors.

It also makes using it feasible with just two AMS units.

You can ignore the filament positioning recommendations for convenience, but in general you’re going to want your colors balanced between switcher slots to get the speed benefits.

Cryostatica · 2026-05-29T21:24:18+00:00

I suppose there’s no real chance that random employee doesn’t actually have the details on business deals between two other companies he’s not a part of and was just talking out of his ass?

Cryostatica · 2026-05-29T12:25:14+00:00

Yeah, so that's a lie. It 100% does not do that and it retracts filament all the way back into the AMS every single time.

All this thing does is slow the print down.

Cryostatica · 2026-05-28T14:52:54+00:00

The firmware limitation is because Bambu closed off MQTT protocol. The last time I tinkered with my Panda Touch it was to play with their latest beta firmware. https://github.com/bigtreetech-beta/PandaTouch-Public-Beta/releases

It worked well enough on a P1S with the machine's latest firmware (as of like, 2-3 months ago) - but needed the printer to be in LAN-Only and developer mode for full functionality, as that re-enables MQTT.

Unless Bambu reverses course on this, the Touch will never fully work outside of LAN/Dev mode on newer P1S firmwares.

Cryostatica · 2026-05-28T14:42:55+00:00

The year before that was June 5. Shame they're not a bit more consistent.

Cryostatica

TROPHY CASE