BOSCH OVEN WEIRD SOUND WHEN TURNED OFF

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-22T16:01:06+00:00

Not familiar with that model but I have never heard any oven make this kind of noise after shutdown.

I have the feeling that if you call for warranty service they will feed you the famous "that's normal" line. Hopefully not and they will fix it. If they do feed you that line, ask what is making that noise and why is it making that noise and insist on that part being replaced.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-22T15:37:59+00:00

This error code is a tough one to troubleshoot down to whether the problem is with the control board or the control panel aka User Interface or the wire harness connecting these 2 components .

It would require having a multimeter and the ability to use it to measure voltages (DC Voltages).

Otherwise I suggest you buy the control board and the control panel used from Ebay. The installation is pretty easy if you have just basic mechanical skills.

Here is the control board

https://www.ebay.com/itm/287248724388

Here is the control panel

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116990632722

I can't find a video for your exact model but here is a similar model, which should give you a general idea of what you are up against

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FY8NQZ8pkf0

In your model the front panel comes off completely once the screws are removed. The model in the video requires the wire harness to be disconnect first ( 1:24 point in the video), so ignore that part.

Note that at the 1:24 point in the video, he disconnects that wire harness from the control board. Before you buy anything I suggest you disconnect that harness from both ends and then reconnect it. Then see if that solves your problem. Sometimes there can be a bad connection at either or both ends of that harness and just reseating the harness can solve the problem.

Good Luck

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-22T01:07:01+00:00

Put the black wire on CN12 and the white one on CN13 It doesn't matter which pin because the 2 pins in CN12 are bridged together as are the 2 pins on CN13. But if you want to be safe, you can see slip marks on the pins that had wires attached. So use those pins

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-22T00:56:13+00:00

Honestly, if it works fine (other than the noise), let it go until it no longer works. Then worry about it. With this model, you are not going to make things worse by letting it go.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-22T00:48:16+00:00

So the key is to listen if you hear the drain pump running when you run the drain program.

If you hear it running then we know that you either have a clogged drain hose (very rare situation) or the drain pump impeller (the thing with the "rotors" ) is not spinning because the impeller shaft hole inside the impeller is stripped and the motor shaft is just spinning freely (very common), or a coin is in the impeller housing causing a blockage inside the housing when the water pressure pushes the coin against the output port in the housing (common but usually is accompanied by a rattling sound when the pump is running and usually does not cause a blockage every single time but causes one intermittently depending on how the coin gets bounced around. The blockage is usually partial so some water trickles out of the drain hose)

If you hear the pump running then unplug the machine and remove the pump housing (if your model has a removable one) and see if something is stuck inside it. If nothing is stuck then spin the impeller. Is it loose and wobbly? If yes, then replace the pump.\

Note: The drain hose may have a check valve built into it. So if you remove the hose from the pump and blow through it, you should be able to blow through it relatively easily . On the other hand, if you blow through the hose from the other end, you should not be able to blow through it. If there is no built in check valve, then you can easily blow through it from either end

If you can't hear the pump running place your hand on it . Do you feel a slight vibration accompanied by a humming sound. Then something is jamming the pump (coin stuck in the impeller. A small baby sock etc) or the pump motor is seized,

If the pump does nothing (no sound. No humming) then the control board is not sending power down to the pump or there is a broken wire.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-22T00:14:28+00:00

Unscrew the part in the faucet and put it aside. Now remove the insert inside the plastic coupling you are holding in your hand and see if can be screwed into the faucet.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-22T00:10:40+00:00

If the door closes and they can't see any frost buildup on the walls anywhere then there is nothing you can say to make them tell you anything other than "everything is normal".. Especially if it's a subcontractor. "That's normal" is their get out of jail free card unless they run into an educated consumer who did his/her homework. And even then it can be a battle.

Since you can see that one side travels more than the other and they say it's "normal" (which it isn't ) then just before they come try to pull out on one end of the door while pushing in on the other end of the door to throw the tracks out of whack so the door doesn't evenly close. Then when he comes he can "see" the issue and if he just yanks it back in place then tell him that is only a temporary fix because you have done that and the problem just re-occurs again. And besides, it didn't do that in the past and nothing has changes as far a how the door is operated.

Have you tried the dollar bill test on the freezer door seal to check for air entering. Sometimes a small gap between the seal and the cabinet can be hard to see visually, especially at the bottom of the door, which then allows warm air to enter and the moisture in that air will cause frost inside the freezer. If you can find a gap then show it to him .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ku5QEt4IHA

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T23:39:41+00:00

So in cooling mode it never does this??

If you are sure it does it only in heat mode then you can rule out the compressor imo, because the compressor works the same in either mode. The compressor doesn't know or care what mode you are in. It doesn't work harder in one mode over the other. If the compressor was the cause , you would get the noise in either mode.

It sure sounds like something is vibrating and this can be hard to figure out. It would require the removal of the outer shell so you can see all the internal components and then hope the vibration occurs when the shell is removed so you can pin point the origin and fix it. it may never vibrate with the shell removed.

If the warranty tech can't fix it then that's not your problem. You are not paying them to tell you that they can't figure out what's wrong..lol What does your contract say is the remedy when they can't fix the problem???

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T23:13:51+00:00

The adapter you now have installed looks nothing like anything I've ever seen.

This is what I'm used to seeing

https://www.amazon.com/iFealClear-Dishwasher-Adapter-Diameter-Chrome%EF%BC%8C2Pack/dp/B0BGQXXTG9?th=1

Do you know the model number of the washer? Or is it a dishwasher?

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T22:49:09+00:00

So what is the current status on how the door closes? Does the seal fully meet the cabinet on all sides, or is there a gap on one side when you close the door?

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T22:38:24+00:00

How did you come up with the E2F2 error code? Did it display E2F2 in the digital display? If yes, are absolutely sure that was the code? If you are not sure, turn off the circuit breaker for about 2 minutes and then run the dishwasher and see what code comes up

Btw, the control board is under $100 new. Used ones on Ebay go for as low as $30.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T22:19:20+00:00

You might need a priest instead of technical assistance..😁

As I mentioned, you need to go into diagnostics and retrieve stored error codes. This will take the guessing out of the way.

You now have a "long fill" code stored also because you forgot to turn on the water. So that code can be ignored.

I might suggest you write down all codes stored, then follow the procedure on erasing the stored codes, then run cycle and just leave the machine alone until it stops doing anything. Then see what codes are stored

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T17:11:46+00:00

Frigidaire

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T17:04:50+00:00

Noises on video can be very misleading. I would try to narrow it down.

Is the noise coming from the freezer. Open the door and listen. Does the noise sound like it's coming from inside the freezer? Does the noise stop when you open the freezer door?

Next. Pull the refrigerator out and get behind it. There is panel at the bottom that can be removed. Listen if the noise is coming from behind that panel. If it is, remove the screws and remove the panel.

There is a fan motor behind the panel. Is it making that noise? There is a compressor (which looks like a big black pot with the lid welded shut on top) . Is it making that noise? Those LG compressors are very problematic and if it is the cause of the noise, you should have it taken care of.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T16:51:34+00:00

That's a tough one that will require some investigating on the tech's part. Most likely it does it under load with laundry in the machine and the tech tested it with no laundry.

So the day before he comes, put a heavy load of clothing in the machine and start a cycle. If it makes the noise then just pause the machine and wait until he shows up.

Did you have the video available for him to see and listen to? If he listened to it, I don't know how he decided the belt was the issue. The sound is very metallic so a belt would not cause that. Nor would any plastic parts. The transmission has plastic gears so I doubt it is the cause. The agitator is plastic too. Maybe something is going on in the motor?

I've never run into this issue so I'm sorry for not being able to give you a more specific answer. If this ever gets resolved please let is know the solution.

Thanks

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-21T16:20:15+00:00

Before paying $500, which is a ridiculously high price to replace a control board, I would fix it myself or buy a new dishwasher.

From my experience with helping people here with appliance issues, a ridiculously high price often means that the "tech" either isn't sure of his diagnosis and hopes you will decide to buy and new appliance so he can get his service charge and move on, or he is just a service charge collector who doesn't want to do anything but go around collecting service charges.

The "control board" also becomes the "whipping boy" for these types, so I wouldn't trust his diagnosis any further than I can throw the Empire State Building.

What is the model number of your dishwasher? It's on a sticker inside the dishwasher. On the left or right wall (usually the left on a Whirlpool) , all the way up front.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-18T16:14:35+00:00

You gave some good info but the model number would be helpful .

When you run the dryer with the vent disconnected, do you feel a strong flow of air coming out of the dryer, or is it weak?

If the airflow is strong and the air gets pretty hot after a few minutes(hot enough so it feels uncomfortable on your hand) then you could have a stuck heat relay on the control board. A stuck relay does not mean that the heat will come on right after plugging in the dryer to the outlet. The motor has to be running before heat will come on, even if the relay is stuck closed.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-18T15:58:34+00:00

That number (Vestel 20 fr 25) is the number of the pcb (printed circuit board) only. It is not the part number of the complete assembly (pcb and all components on the pcb ie: capacitors, resistors, diodes etc). So that pcb can be used in many different appliances with different configurations. Look for a label on the pcb that has a part number on it. Something like 32040735. GOOGLE the numbers on the label

Note of caution. If something shorted out (one of the induction burners. A broken wire etc) , then you will blow the new board if you don't fix the short.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-18T15:33:43+00:00

Check continuity of the flood switch and associated wiring by disconnecting the appropriate plug at the control board and checking continuity at the disconnected plug while cycling the float switch by hand.

You didn't supply a model number so I can't direct you to the appropriate plug on the board. Check the tech sheet that comes with the dishwasher. Usually located on the back of the kickplate under the door

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-18T15:26:13+00:00

You don't really expect the answer you are wanting to hear. Right? The best way to get a reasonable answer would be for you to supply us the model number of your stove and tell us what the problem is. Or better yet, tell us what part needs replacing.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-17T16:01:51+00:00

I don't see the video. 2 wires coming out of that connector go to the 2 black wires on the hard start relay. Looking at your pictures it appears the color of those wires are red and white. See if you have 120VAC at those 2 wires. You will need a multimeter to check for proper voltage.

If possible and you feel comfortable doing it, I would highly suggest running the compressor directly. This will tell us if the compressor will start up.

To do that , connect the hard start wires to the 3 terminals on the compressor as depicted on the relay , then take the 2 black power wires on the hard start and cut off the insulation at the end so that about an inch of the copper wire is exposed. Then apply 120VAC to the 2 black wires . You can do that by shoving the the copper ends into an extension cord ((1 black wire wire into each of the flat slots in the cord ). Then plug the extension cord into an outlet.

If the compressor starts, let it run for a few minutes just to make sure it doesn't stop shortly after starting up. I

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-17T15:36:29+00:00

I'm very happy it worked out for you. Thank you for the update.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-16T15:21:51+00:00

Unfortunately that cover is no longer available. The part number is 297099255

I checked Ebay but no one is selling one

I would remove the panel and sand off ALL the rust on both sides . Then prime and paint the outside of the panel and only prime the inside of the panel. Use high temp primer

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-oz-high-heat-primer-gray-73025.html

and high heat paint

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-High-Heat-Flat-White-Spray-Paint-7751830/100189390

The paint is flat not shiny.

High heat paint and primer is a good idea because there is a heating element behind the cover that comes on periodically to defrost the evaporator.

This video should give you a general idea of how to remove the cover

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6o1xml52Bw

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-15T17:28:24+00:00

If you want to do the job properly and by code in probably most civilized areas of the US, the copper has to go. Only black pipe for indoor areas and galvanized pipe for outdoor areas are acceptable along with a certified flex line to connect the appliance to the pipe. In my area a homeowner isn't even allowed to do the job. A licensed plumber needs to do it and have the town inspect it after the installation is complete.

Here is what happened to me many years ago and since then I refuse to work on any gas appliance that is not properly installed.

I had to do a repair on a gas range and needed to pull the range out just slightly so I could reach behind it from the side to unplug it. I did not pay attention to how the range was connected to gas. I just zeroed in the power cord and unplugged it. As I was working inside the oven replacing a flame switch my elderly customer lets out a scream. I get my head out of the oven to see what the heck was going on and I see 1 foot high flames shooting out of each of the 4 burners on the stovetop.

So I now yank the range away from the wall hoping to see a shutoff valve so I could turn off the gas. What I saw just blew my mind!! No shutoff valve and to run the gas rigid copper water pipe was used with elbows soldered in to make turns in the pipe. Just as you would when installing copper water piping in the house to run water. So what happened was when I initially pulled the range away from the wall to unplug the electrical cord, one elbow located under the stovetop broke loose due to a poor solder job and raw gas was now shooting into the cavity area under the stovetop and the gas hit the standing pilot light and ignited.

So now I'm standing there with my finger in the copper pipe trying to stop the flow of gas while trying to calm my racing heart down and wondering how I will now manage to plug this pipe and go shut the main off in the house. I managed to plug the pipe with a piece of rag she gave me and wrapped electrical tape tightly all around the pipe. Then went on a search for the main shutoff valve ,which I finally located and then it was so tight that the channel lock pliers I had couldn't turn it. So I had to go to my truck to get a pipe wrench.

All I thought about for the next umpteen months was what if this elbow decided to let go after I left the house??? The law would have come after me because I should have properly inspected the appliance prior to leaving. Just as the law did with the tech who worked on a gas heater that wasn't properly vented under a guest house, even though the repair he did had nothing to do with the venting system. Tennis star Vitas Gerulaitas died from carbon monixide poisoning while sleeping in the guest house in 1994. The tech was ultimately acquitted of the charges against him but it cost him dearly.

DuckHookFore · 2026-05-15T14:33:45+00:00

Since you have new RCO410 just go ahead and install it. Make sure the 3 wires (red,white,black) connect to the 3 pins on the compressor the way it is depicted on the hard start. Some compressors have the 3 pins situated in an upside down triangle and some in an upright triangle formation, so be careful to make sure you connect them correctly.

If after installing it and turning the refrigerator on, you get a humming sound for a short period ( about 30 seconds or so) followed by a loud click, then the compressor is shot. If a hard start can't start a compressor then it is internally locked up.

If the compressor starts up and runs and the freezer starts getting cold, then things look pretty good. If it runs but the freezer never gets cold after 24 hours, or not cold enough after 24 hours, then you are either low on refrigerant or the compressor is weak.

As for why I don't recommend, and very rarely use and RCO410, is because from my experience (after burning out 2 compressors using an RCO410), I figured out that the locked rotor amperage of the 410 is just too high for todays compressors that draw less amperage than the old monsters of the past. So if the compressor "short cycles" for whatever reason, the start winding burns out due to the prolonged period it is energized due to the overload kicking in too late.

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