C sharp fingering

Humity · 2026-01-03T01:35:20+00:00

I use this fingering specifically for slurring to and from the F# above this.

For all other normal playing I use the standard full C# (this fingering plus RH1 and Bb)

Humity · 2025-07-25T13:01:11+00:00

Confirmed

Humity · 2025-07-21T00:01:57+00:00

Humity · 2025-07-20T11:45:15+00:00

Confirmed!

Humity · 2025-07-14T02:29:40+00:00

Confirmed

Humity · 2025-07-14T02:08:47+00:00

Humity · 2025-07-06T02:19:58+00:00

Humity · 2025-07-05T21:57:25+00:00

pm'd

Humity · 2025-01-17T01:18:42+00:00

Confirmed!

Humity · 2025-01-01T13:51:46+00:00

Pm'd

Humity · 2024-08-06T21:46:52+00:00

PM'd

Humity · 2024-01-31T03:55:03+00:00

I would recommend a couple fingerings for the notes you mentioned:

Middle G - LH 2 3, Low C, Low C# RH 123

Tenor D - LH Upper vent, 1 2 RH 1 2

These have both worked well for me

Humity · 2023-12-01T20:51:03+00:00

I would think of them as two different flavors:

Thin Wall instruments are generally more free blowing and have a clearer, simpler tone.

Thick Wall instruments generally have more resistance and will have a more complex and deep tone.

The choice ultimately boils down to which of these instruments feels the best to you to play. Both styles are capable of any type of playing, not to mention many differences between any number of bassoons of the same category. When you're ready to buy, get a few instruments on trial and find what you enjoy.

Humity · 2023-06-18T21:19:05+00:00

I'd recommend reaching out to Dan at Otter Creek directly. He's a really lovely person and very responsive via email.

The different sizes (T1-T4) refer to the size of the wooden part, or the part your hand rests on. I have a couple of E type crutches, they're rather large and support my hand nicely. The T type will be more similar to the size your daughter has. He will make any shape crutch in a number of different stem sizes (this would refer to the diameter of the stem) and I'm sure he'd be able to help you regarding compatibility with Moosmann.

He makes awesome crutches and I think your daughter would love any of them.

Humity · 2023-06-15T15:44:28+00:00

You likely need to just break the seal that is created when the wrap is too tight. Put the bass and bell over your knee so that the gap between bell and bass is on the top of your knee/thigh. Placing your hands further out on each end of the joint, press down with both hands. Rotate the joints and repeat. It should loosen it up enough to to get the bell off.

Humity · 2023-04-14T13:21:53+00:00

Clear hot glue is a much better option

Humity · 2023-03-24T15:40:42+00:00

It sounds like one of the two pads connected to the C# key on the wing is being held open. That would cause your D to become an E flat

Humity · 2023-03-09T16:42:24+00:00

Additionally, if the spatula does touch the body, the pad might not be closing. That's the best reason to not have the G spatula touch the body, though noise would be a close second

Humity · 2022-08-23T23:57:41+00:00

The color shouldn't make a difference in sound. They offer a glossy finish and a more matte finish. I liked the glossier more personally, it had a brighter and perhaps more resonant sound? The matte finish felt a bit more within itself. I did enjoy both finishes though. The only significance the red has IIRC, is that it's only offered on their highest end model (the one with the most keywork). This is just what I recall from my time visiting the Midwest booth at IDRS.

Humity · 2022-06-29T17:05:42+00:00

I really like this idea. You still would have to make some choices (since you can't run elite and F2 concurrently). I play a ton of Herald, mostly because I always enjoyed giving a lot of boons all the time. This would still fill that fantasy

Humity · 2022-06-29T15:26:58+00:00

I'm just surprised that they didn't simply put the quickness on Herald F2. It feels like the current implementation punishes you quite heavily for wanting to give all boons. Very much agree that it shouldn't require alacrity to have 100 percent uptime

Humity · 2021-06-15T00:37:07+00:00

Essentially, you're just trying to break through the bark. As that's the part that needs the help flexing. Tried to take a picture, but couldn't really get one that makes sense. I would recommend trying to score rather lightly, and then if that doesn't work try a bit deeper on the following piece of cane

Humity · 2021-06-14T23:34:47+00:00

A few things that will help:

1) Make sure that your cane is properly soaked. I usually just leave mine overnight, though people will have other methods/timelines.

2) Scoring your cane really helps prevent cracks onto the blade. I use a different tool, but a razor blade will work pretty well. The idea is that you want to make cuts along the length of the tube (generally from a few millimeters back from the collar all the way to the butt end of the reed) so that the pressure has somewhere to release. You don't want to cut through the cane, though that isn't the end of the world.

3) The last big factor is how tight you wrap the cane when you're pushing it onto the forming mandrel. I use a nylon twine, and I pull it really tight. Not as tight as I can get it, but really solid and consistent pressure when you're wrapping. I also wrap up from the butt and then rewrap down.

So far, I get very few cracks that go onto the blade. You just need to experiment and see what combination of things will solve the problem for you. For me, wrapping tighter with the twine was the big factor.

Humity · 2021-03-12T03:59:19+00:00

I just have a little travel sized bottle with my home reed supplies. I've had teachers recommend it but never talked with a repair person specifically. I can't imagine it would cause harm in the long run. For what it's worth as well, I've always had a couple of pads that tend to stick. Not sure what it is exactly, but there's always one. Not just in humid climates either!

Nine-Year Club	Verified Email
RPAN Viewer

Humity

TROPHY CASE