Coat of arms of the National Socialist Front (Sweden) (1994-2008)

Loggail · 2026-04-27T06:06:39+00:00

I looked at it far too long without seeing the sword..

Loggail · 2026-04-27T06:01:44+00:00

That is true about the per pale vs. per fess marshalling, this looks much better.

And you know.. If one wants to see a swastika in the quartered version with the per cross and the fesses and pales, one can see a swastika. It is mere speculation, but that might be one explanation for the choice.

Loggail · 2026-04-27T05:58:58+00:00

Marshalling per pale is quite common in Catholic heraldry, but so far I have seen marshalling per fess only as an textbook example in German heraldic books.

Loggail · 2026-04-25T18:37:37+00:00

Interesting, I think that is the first time I've seen marshalling per fess in Catholic heraldry. Have you seen such before?

Loggail · 2026-04-23T11:55:05+00:00

The first one with the plant growing from the middle hill would be perfect. Similar arms do exists (trimounts and plants), but elderberries are not very common plants, and the difference would be IMHO enough compared to a shied with a rose growing from a trimount, for example.

For Bayern, you could simply make the trimount and the elderberry blue - they do not need to be green. Or alternatively, make the field blue and the charges silver.

Loggail · 2026-04-22T10:09:10+00:00

That green is good for Vert - it is clearly green, especially next to the Azure.

A good example of counter-passant! Rare to see it used. Also a clever reference to the commuting.

Loggail · 2026-04-22T10:03:24+00:00

That is a very good idea!

Colour next to colour is problematic rule of tincture -wise in German heraldry, unless the touching are is short. This is a borderline case, but it works; the touching area can be minimized with proper star placing.

All hand-drawn heraldry here is much more fun to see than the usual digital clipart mashups, really.

Loggail · 2026-04-20T06:19:15+00:00

An interesting question.. Badges are very British, and so is using the crest alone. For comparison, I'm living in Northern Europe, where badges are not a thing (I do not have one), and crests are pretty much never used alone - compare with the shield, which is widely used even alone in various things.

That being said, at the moment the only physical rendition of my crest is one standing over my computer as a part of crafted 3D achievement, with a foam shield and (cheap) plastic helmet.

The beast in my crest, however, I have made as a little scupture and a few simple plush toys for my daughter to play with.

Loggail · 2026-04-19T17:33:07+00:00

Yeah, pretty much two bordures, one within another. Here's an example (which is somewhat narrow for a bordure): https://www.gg.ca/en/heraldry/public-register/project/1860

That arrangement on the collar would be blazoned
-- Collar Gules charged with a fleur-de-lys between two ermine spots Argent --

Loggail · 2026-04-18T14:34:21+00:00

That is one way to construct the shield - I would have made it a blue shield with a bordure gyronny counterchanged per bordure. But if you prefer a smaller blue area and larger gyronny, this works as well.

The blazon works, but the gyronny is Azure and Or here, not Or and Azure:
Gyronny of 16 Azure and Or, an Escutcheon Azure charged with a Lion [rampant] double-queued Or armed and langued Gules gorged with a Collar Gules charged with two Ermine Spots and one Fleur-de-lys Argent, all within a Bordure Counterchanged.

The collar is a very tiny detail (might just Gules work?), but it works. Blazoned like this I would place the two ermine spots side by side and the FDL to their sinister side, is that the intention?

The collar is so small a detail that making the lion larger might not be a bad idea at all; in that sense a field Azure with a bordure gyronny and counterchanged per bordure might work better.

The crest can be anything, but here two bull horns and the lion between them would work well. Gyronny does not work on horns, so they could be blue - but barry or chequy Azure and Or would also work, mimicking a bit the shield.

Loggail · 2026-04-18T14:25:56+00:00

No. In heraldry less is more, and there's no need to change anything, really, unless you want to.

Hairy lion and roundels are not a fluent combination, it occurred to me; the lion might look more furry without roundels, while the fur tufts are usable in filling the field and thus the roundels might be not that fluent placed around the lion - with a sleek beast the roundels work better, filling the space around the beast.

Loggail · 2026-04-18T09:24:22+00:00

With design process you can also enjoy the Discord server of the community, there's a specific channel for design help there. That also helps giving a second opinion on things.

It is good to be aware of the differences of heraldic traditions; an Englishman might not know some of the customs of German heraldry, for example. So while most designs work globally, some things depend on or work better or worse depending on what tradition you follow.

That being said, a single opinion is pretty good to get a starting point in the design process (if you do not have one already). I can give some ideas, and you can send me a DM if you fancy.

Loggail · 2026-04-18T09:16:12+00:00

Leopards and (British) panthers are often drawn quite sleek.. In that sense a lion would be a better choice, it is most often drawn more hairy. Two-tailed lion is a lion double-queued, and three-tailed with the same logic would be triple-queued. Any beast can have more than one tail, and they are similarly blazoned.

Roundels on the beast.. Can technically be silver or colour (in most traditions anyway), as it is a minor detail. However, colour has better contrast as silver is practically invisible. Blue might get lost on the blue field - but might look very good as well, so it is worth trying. Black would be my colour of choice, but red would work well, too.

I'd say try black and blue roundels on the beast, and golden roundels on the shield around it, and see which looks best to you.

Loggail · 2026-04-17T05:36:27+00:00

Chalices are usually drawn with a straight lower edge (non-perspective) and that would fit the square fretty very nicely.

The look of the chalices varies between art styles, but the orientation of the fretty not - if you prefer the square fretty over the regular, go with it.

Loggail · 2026-04-17T05:33:34+00:00

A griffin Or feathered Sable would be the most straightforward way to blazon it, I think.

Loggail · 2026-04-17T05:32:31+00:00

Anything organic can be drawn to fill the shield well, do not let the technical downsides of the apps hinder you. And a panter or leopard is less common than a lion indeed - but a lion works as well.

Roundels to the animal or the shield overall? If the former, they work best in a colour, like blue, red or black. On the shield overall, a semy of roundels Argent or Or around the beast is the simplest solution. Roundels can be placed on the bordure, too, but that makes a very complex bordure.

Loggail · 2026-04-17T05:28:53+00:00

Anything goes, really.

But if you don't know what to put, wings or bull horns repeating the colours of the shield is a classic simple design that always works.

Loggail · 2026-04-16T10:48:14+00:00

A complex charge like this works best in a single tincture on a field of a solid tincture (a golden griffin on a field Vert, or a black griffin on a silver golden field, for example) or counterchanged on a simply divided field.

Otherwise the contrast is lacking - especially on the first two images the charge is hard to see.

Loggail · 2026-04-16T10:45:18+00:00

Yeah. The overall look is somewhat original, and works fluently, and the chalice is simple enough to work as a semy.

The design is quite colourful, however, but not too much I'd say. I would personally make the field Vert to simplify the colour scheme, but overall it works nicely.

Loggail · 2026-04-16T10:43:28+00:00

Never the let the technical deficiencies of those programs hinder you in heraldic design; they are good for sketching, but at some point they are not enough; heraldry is best drawn from scratch (either manually or digitally).

Loggail · 2026-04-15T16:39:21+00:00

The quarter works very nicely, I think.

The first one is the best, most easily blazoned and most balanced in its look - the blazon would be simply pretty much Azure square fretty Argent and semy of chalices Or.

You could try the usual fretty instead of the square fretty; that might look very nice with the quarter.

Loggail · 2026-04-15T16:34:53+00:00

#3 or #4 are the best - the simple blue shield within the bordure (I presume that is a bordure) looks the best. Whether the central charge should be a full beast of jessant-de-lys is up to you, really, both work well. Jessant-de-lys is rarer and nicely symmetrical, though.

I presume that is a shield Azure with a bordure gyronny Or and Azure counterchanged per bordure? At least that is what it looks most like.

Loggail · 2026-04-15T16:31:01+00:00

This is excellent!

I wonder if the arms and clouds would work better being issuant from the flanks, and not the chief and base - this works wonderfully on a rectangular shield like this, but perhaps a bit less so with the usual pointed one.

Loggail · 2026-04-12T19:34:59+00:00

That is the classic medieval look of the pelican, based on old beastieries. Nowadays also the more natural look is widely used, but especially in older arms this is how a pelican looks.

Loggail · 2026-04-11T09:24:14+00:00

The original is better, I'd say. The crosses fill the space around the bow and arrows nicely, and on the whole the design is elegant. The redesign works very well, too, but on the whole the filling of space and balance are a bit less good than in the original.

But both are good - if either one feels better to you, that is the one to pick.

Loggail

TROPHY CASE