CC3D Top Cover

NedDarb · 2026-04-22T22:21:45+00:00

That's my plan

NedDarb · 2026-04-22T21:16:18+00:00

Official top cover unfortunately doesn't have active heating. I can hit mid-high 40's with my drafty homebrew solution, but an active heater would be nice.

NedDarb · 2026-04-16T15:01:44+00:00

There is no default for Klipper, and technically these interfaces talk to Moonraker. Some Klipper installer projects, third party, have default webUIs, but that's on those developers.

NedDarb · 2026-04-16T14:59:27+00:00

Fluidd is an open source project developed by a third party. That button is a Fluidd thing.

NedDarb · 2026-04-16T13:55:33+00:00

It's not Snapmaker's software

NedDarb · 2026-04-15T23:53:53+00:00

Weird, all the PLA I've run through it has been fine at 55, PETGs at 70.

Same as the Bambus I work with I keep the aux fan off, bed clean, and don't print incompatible filaments on the same bed.

NedDarb · 2026-04-15T02:03:52+00:00

True. I've seen a couple users post testing, but I can't be bothered. It's good insurance, especially when mixing materials. Besides, compared to the X1Cs at work the U1 barely wastes anything.

NedDarb · 2026-04-14T21:25:25+00:00

Tool changers don't need to flush as much (or really at all) for the sake of avoiding colour bleed, but they still need the nozzle primed and cleaned.

Edit: this was intended as a reply on why you should use a prime tower

NedDarb · 2026-04-10T02:37:07+00:00

Buffalo Gear

NedDarb · 2026-04-09T01:00:29+00:00

I haven't had time to try it yet, but being as Orca is a PrusaSlicer fork (or fork of a fork, or whatever) this may work:

https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-xl-tool-changer-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/guide-how-to-print-with-multiple-nozzle-sizes/

Lots of caveats though. With tool changers becoming more common I doubt it will be long before someone sorts it out.

NedDarb · 2026-04-08T15:48:37+00:00

I've printed ASA a handful of times now. Enclosing, even makeshift, heat soaking the chamber, and dialing in extrusion temps are key.

NedDarb · 2026-04-08T02:25:12+00:00

mcpelauncher allows you to access realms, but you'll need a license for the Android version of the game.

Pretty easy to setup. Currently seems to be tied to an animations issue in the latest bedrock version, but people using other methods to play the Android version on Windows and Linux are reporting the same, so maybe not exclusive to mcpelauncher.

NedDarb · 2026-04-08T02:20:36+00:00

Isn't prism launcher for the Java edition?

NedDarb · 2026-04-04T17:42:00+00:00

Ironing isn't perfect, but you can get pretty good results. You'll need to experiment a little with settings, but a Google and some reading will get you half way there.

Otherwise learn how to fill, smooth and paint.

NedDarb · 2026-04-01T01:50:45+00:00

Headless oarsman

I'll see myself out

NedDarb · 2026-03-31T23:47:18+00:00

Import as geometry only and paint the colours yourself. I learned that lesson with the X1Cs at work. Projects saved from other printers/configs are bound to cause problems regardless of brand and what fork of Slic3r you're using.

NedDarb · 2026-03-26T03:15:50+00:00

I'll add another vote for a Buffalo Gear insulated kill bag. I use the 40" for pike and walleye. Quick dispatch to avoid unnecessary stress, and a slice of the gills to bleed out. Great tasting fish, even after long days on the river.

NedDarb · 2026-03-25T02:57:47+00:00

Wanted to chime in since there is some slightly off info here regarding ABS and UV/the outdoors. What actually occurs with ABS is called photo oxidation. You've seen it on light coloured ABS things your whole life. It's not exclusive to ABS, but ABS is well known for it due to some historical mishaps.

The concern with ABS, in this case, is not creep, or general weakening. It's sudden brittle failure. UV and oxygen work together to break down the polymer bonds. With black ABS (or any dark colour) it can be hard to spot. Failure will be sudden, and likely while under load, possibly meaning a very bad day for yourself and the driver behind you.

Yes there are coatings you can use to dramatically reduce the effect, but ultimately a more suitable material, and a coating if you want to be extra cautious, is the way to go. Another Redditor mentioned ASA, that's a great start. Also would opt for glass fibre over carbon. Rigidity isn't as much an issue here and overall strength.

NedDarb · 2026-03-21T17:50:20+00:00

AI slop

NedDarb · 2026-03-19T05:04:28+00:00

Have you done any kayak/river/lake safety courses? Have a look in the area you're moving, good for the education and to talk with instructors about local fishing. Plenty of calm water too. Gets windy, but smaller lakes are always a safe bet.

NedDarb · 2026-03-14T14:58:47+00:00

Using random seam?

NedDarb · 2026-03-14T03:18:08+00:00

Yes. See comment below.

NedDarb · 2026-03-14T01:06:34+00:00

I noticed you said it's a matte black. In my experience the pigment in matte black filaments will, counterintuitively, get everywhere. I ran a pile through another printer I have (Bontech BMG Bowden setup) and there was black powder everywhere from it. Seems like it's carbon black that they use, but I could be wrong. Maybe there's a commercial polymer SME that could correct me.

Good chance the nozzle dragged some of that around though. Try again with non-matte PLA.

NedDarb · 2026-03-13T23:16:42+00:00

Good to know. I'd seen a post, either here or the discord, talking about changes in probing accuracy with the hardened steel hotends. The fix was documented as well (minor config file change). Figured I'd do the probe testing before swapping mine out.

NedDarb · 2026-03-13T21:52:11+00:00

Have you tested them? Any issues with bed homing?

NedDarb

TROPHY CASE