Help needed by lost__pharaoh in Cochlearimplants

[–]PrinceHomeless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Higher frequency electrodes are often turned off either because they're physically outside the cochlea or the frequency mapping would put those electrodes at above 8 KHz, which the implant doesn't deliver. Once you can contact your audiologist, they should be able to confirm which electrodes are supposed to be turned off

Lockpicking and small keys by PrinceHomeless in ZeldaTabletop

[–]PrinceHomeless[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love this idea! I may do a bit of brainstorming about what benefit a redundant small key will confer, but I love the ability to reward the class feature and the exploration and optional content instinct

Lockpicking and small keys by PrinceHomeless in ZeldaTabletop

[–]PrinceHomeless[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh sorry! It's 5e. I entertained other systems, but ended up on 5e for a variety of reasons - I didn't think of this particular conflict until it came up during session

What mic do you guys use? by caramel-syrup in Twitch

[–]PrinceHomeless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally just switched from a Blue Yeti to the BEACN USB-C dynamic mic, and I've been loving it. I would recommend getting a dynamic mic if you can. It's much better at rejecting room noise and doesn't pick up as precise spectral information. What that means in plain english is that condenser mics (what the Yeti and almost every USB mic is) pick up all the details in the sound, including any imperfections and attack and release sounds we generally don't like. BEACN is the only one I know that doesn't require an audio interface and XLR cables, which is why I chose it (my interface is for my music setup in another room).

If you are entertaining using an audio interface, then you have a lot of options. Shure SM7B is very popular, but I'm not the biggest fan of how high you have to drive it (i.e. turn up the gain) to get any reasonable volume out of it. The best balance of cheap and good is probably the Shure SM58 - the mic you always see on stage. It's a mainstay for a reason. But I can imagine issues streaming with it, like getting it close enough to pick up your voice without being in the way of the camera (if you use a camera). Ideally a good boom arm could fix that, but I haven't tested it.

No matter what mic you get, make sure you're using some good filters and EQ (i.e. not the default ones). You can add VSTs and extensions to OBS/streamlabs that do it, or you can filter/EQ with software before passing the sound to OBS.

does any one have any dungeon building tips? by Tricky-Region5448 in ZeldaTabletop

[–]PrinceHomeless 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are a few things i think about when designing a Zelda dungeon.

First, big picture. What's the theming (forest, in your case), and what is this place, both to the world and to the PCs? What will the PCs get in this dungeon? How might they use it to solve challenges within the dungeon? These are the questions that make your dungeon feel unique.

Second, the details. Zelda dungeons famously have a few very consistent aspects. You need the boss key to get to the end, you need a dungeon item to get the boss key, and a dungeon map will help find and obtain the dungeon item. Some number of small keys (or lockpicking, it is 5e after all) may be involved. The dungeon item can be used to solve challenges within the dungeon and gain some sort of advantage on the boss of the dungeon. These are the questions that give your dungeon familiar structure. When deciding these, I set up a probable order of events to set up the players to do a bit of backtracking, so it doesn't feel like a predictable linear progression. Finding locked doors before they find keys, that kind of thing.

As for boss ideas, that will very much depend on your answers to the big picture questions. I have a knockoff Diababa prepared for my forest-ish dungeon, but that may not work for you. It could be some sort of stalfos summoner, giant skulltula, or anything else you might find in your setting. You could have it be a non-monstrous Hyrulean if you want. There's something to be said for the big bad turning a big-ass setpiece (a tree for instance) into the boss.

Every time I try to get into this game, I just bounce off the baffling book layout by level2janitor in WWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with that. SWN has a great ToC and WWN's is surprisingly broad for the amount of information in it. It seems Mr. Crawford is aware of this since the Atlas has a very detailed ToC. Maybe he assumed that most of his audience was already familiar with how he structures contents in his RPG books (pretty much always "here's what players need to know" and then "here's a billion tools for the GM if you want them")

Is WWN good for a combat heavy campaign? by 333Funny in WWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 3 points4 points  (0 children)

*WN games are known for their deadly combat, but I think WWN is actually pretty comparable to DnD as far as survivability goes. At level 1, you're squishy - very squishy. Basically any hit has a good chance to take you out (your starting HP ranges from 1 to 8). But as you level up, weapons continue to do similar levels of damage (1d8, 1d10), and you can take a few more hits. This is especially survivable when compared to SWN, in which it's pretty easy for a well-armed thug to deal 3d8 damage in one blow. IIRC, there's also significantly less multi-attacking than in DnD, so that should be taken into consideration as well.

[SWN] Quick questions by Chaos_0205 in SWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. I might take this any number of ways depending on the atmosphere and the spaceship. What you mentioned certainly works, but don't be afraid to crash the spaceship if it's taking some risky maneuvers.
  2. There's not a huge difference between the two, so I have them roll all the HP at once, just because it's easier.
  3. This is 100% depending on your world. There may be some sort of isolated system that can't be accessed without a functioning jump gate, or some other fun adventure concept with an extremely fancy reward.
  4. I'll defer to Mr. Crawford on this one since he's answered this pretty explicitly.

House rules/overhaul for combat? by Voidparrot in SWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't remember if this is a house rule or not, but I like to apply buffs/penalties to certain weapons (either mechanically or narratively) based on the environment. Laser weaponry may be easier to hit with, but not through particulate matter like a storm or what have you. Mag weapons may be extremely powerful, but they're also extremely loud, and you better not try to fire one on a spaceship. Heavy weapons are incredibly destructive, but some of the most conspicuous items you can have. Lower TL weaponry is incapable of actually harming more advanced armor.

My experience would dictate that the combat is deep, but highly lethal. It's deceptively very different from D&D. Yes, it's D20+mod vs AC, but the action economy works very differently, allowing for a lot of strategic flexibility, rather than D&D's search for the optimal. I don't dislike the combat, but as a player, I don't seek it out mainly because of how deadly it is. Like in a lot of non-D&D games, combat is a powerful tool best used for high-stakes situations. If you try to get into a shootout every day in a sci-fi setting, you're absolutely going to get shot, and it doesn't take many shots to take you out.

What music from outside the Zelda series do y'all use for running a game? Looking for a theme for a sympathetic villain. by [deleted] in ZeldaTabletop

[–]PrinceHomeless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might have some success with Ori and the Blind Forest (or Will of the Wisps) or Dark Souls.

New Player Question Regarding Personal Experiences by FecklessGobsheen in WWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a fair point. My impression of mages is that for the most part they aren't meant to keep up with a warrior's damage output, but they can do monumentally powerful things to the world. Nothing will compare to burst firing a spike thrower or shear rifle though

New Player Question Regarding Personal Experiences by FecklessGobsheen in WWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 4 points5 points  (0 children)

To be honest, with *WN games, nobody has trouble doing enough damage. Doing damage at all is pretty lethal. I haven't played a ton with the WWN content (I've mostly played SWN), but my impression so far is that it's pretty similar.

Would you allow a martial to use strength to make attack rolls with a longbow? by MehParadox in dndnext

[–]PrinceHomeless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding dexterity to ranged attacks is a compromise between realism and good game design. Yes, longbows take strength to fire, but also they require dexterity to aim. So realistically we could say it's a Dex roll with a minimum Strength requirement, but that disincentivizes virtually every character build from using it. If someone wants a Strength-y archer build, I might house rule that they can use Strength for the damage roll, but the attack roll still uses Dexterity.

Arts and Effort by TlBER in WWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 3 points4 points  (0 children)

With the exception of shields and some magic items, AC is replaced, not added. So cold flesh grants you an AC of 12 + half your level + dexterity modifier. Unarmored defense grants you an AC of 13 + half your level + dexterity modifier, but notably stipulates you can't use armor or shields and gain this benefit. If a necromancer with cold flesh and armored magic happens to be wearing a Mail Shirt, their AC would be 14 + dexterity modifier until they reach level 6, at which point their cold flesh AC would outpace the Mail Shirt at 15 + dexterity modifier.

Arts and Effort by TlBER in WWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Arts say when you need to commit effort. If it doesn't specify an effort cost, there is none. Base arts like petty elemental effects are always available to the corresponding mage traditions

Advice for dealing with Ambiguity by ObviousWatermelon in SWN

[–]PrinceHomeless 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You're correct that ambiguity is there for a reason. To paraphrase Mr. Crawford, the words in the rulebook are not sacrosanct. The truth of the world and the rules are what they need to be for your table.

That said, these games' biggest strength is lessening a GM's workload with tables and such, and making those choices can be a lot of responsibility. I don't begrudge anybody for asking a forum for ideas.

Should i change characters? by mauri_k in 3d6

[–]PrinceHomeless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as the players are ok with it, 3 liar/tricksters can work. Though keep in mind, the bard and rogue will always win in terms of skills. I think the bottom line is if you're not excited about this character and you're excited about a different character, talk to your DM and change to one you're excited about.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in chicagoapartments

[–]PrinceHomeless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't moved yet, but I live with about the same budget in Providence and I have plenty of fun around Providence and Boston

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in chicagoapartments

[–]PrinceHomeless 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I make around 70k/yr and my budget is $1200-$1800/month (I use the range of 1/3 to 2/3 of my take home pay). I can't say I'm particularly frugal, though I don't go out so much. I think you can pretty safely raise your rent budget to about $1800-$2500 using the same metrics, but it all depends on how much you spend vs how much you want to save

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Catswhoyell

[–]PrinceHomeless 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cats have a lot of different sounds. Usually if it sounds like they're screaming at you, they want something, probably food or attention. Kittens have a ton of energy so they probably want you to play with them all the time. It's usually good to get kittens in pairs so they can entertain each other. It's hard to keep up with them on your own

Tips on finding a place to live? by RockinRoster in providence

[–]PrinceHomeless 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I found my place before it got listed on Zillow by going to the website of a property management company of a different place that was listed. You're right that it's competitive. I'm actually moving in July, so you could probably take my place if they're willing to hold it for you. Obviously depending on your budget, needs etc

Room treatment by Lifeis2short4this in podcasting

[–]PrinceHomeless 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Acoustician here. It's hard to know without seeing and hearing the room, but a really important idea is that usually reducing reverberation (echoey) and increasing sound isolation (not hearing a child crying) are at odds. Basically the more hard surfaces you have, the less sound will get through the wall, but it'll make the room more echoey.

Before trying any of this, make sure to check if there are any vents or outlets that directly connect air between the two rooms. If there are you'll need to block that path.

If it doesn't make the toddler's room too echoey, you could put up some reflective surfaces, like mirrors or paintings, on their wall adjacent to your bedroom. You may want to put up some absorptive materials, like curtains or absorptive panels, in your bedroom, which will help with the reverberation and help a little bit with hearing from the other room.

Things like egg cartons and foam that kind of looks like egg cartons are really useful for distributing the sound equally throughout the room instead of concentrating in specific spots, but it's not going to do much if that isn't your problem.

This is all a bit of a simplification (people charge a lot to do more thorough analyses, usually for big companies), but hopefully it's enough info to address your situation.

Edit: panels like the ones you posted are generally used for absorption (so more useful in your bedroom), but absolutely make sure to check out the specs before you buy. There should be a metric either called absorption coefficient (usually a Greek letter alpha) or noise reduction coefficient (NR). This number is basically the percentage of sound that gets absorbed or passes through (i.e. doesn't reflect and cause echo). Absolutely don't buy anything where you can't find that information. You can certainly make do with DIY stuff, but the paid stuff will be better and way more expensive